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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Ciiap.,. Copyright No. 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
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A WORLD-PlLGRIMAGE 



BY 



JOHN HENRY BARROWS 



EDITED BY 

MARY ELEANOR BARROWS 



Much have I travelled in the realms of gold, 
And many goodly states and kingdoms seen; 
Round many Eastern islands have I been. 

Keats. 




CHICAGO 

A. C. McCLURG AND COMPANY 
1897 

M 






Copyright 

By a. C. McClurg and Co. 

A. D. 1897 



a A A 



3/ 



PREFACE 



In these latter days the world is beginning to 
recognize its organic unity ; to feel the current of 
humanity, stronger than patriotism and broader than 
the boundaries of a great nation, that flows beneath 
all peoples. This knowledge one who has seen the 
constellations of two hemispheres and the palms of 
India as well as North American pines, is apt to 
possess in larger measure than those who have never 
been wayfarers in strange places. 

These observations of art and life in other coun- 
tries, which my father wrote in letters to the " Chicago 
Record " and to " The Interior," possess the value 
of having been written at the time of the impres- 
sions, before intermediating experiences dulled them, 
and, in spite of the hasty writing this necessitated, 
are published now in book form, in the hope of 
strengthening the growing belief that this earth, spin- 
ning in space, is encompassed by an atmosphere of 
faith, hope, and love, which men and women of all 
lands breathe as truly and necessarily as the air 
supporting physical life. 

M. E. B. 

The Seven Pines, 

Island of Mackinac, Michigan, 

September i6, 1897. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. On the Sea n 

11. Two GOTTINGEN WALKS 24 

III. First Impressions of German Life ... 36 

IV. Paris 49 

V. Other Scenes in Paris 60 

VI. A Little Tour in France 75 

VII. The German University 84 

VIII. A Day in Cassel and the Fourth of July 97 

IX. In the Hartz Mountains no 

X. In Classic Germany — Eisenach .... 125 
XI. In Classic Germany — Weimar, Jena, Leip- 

sic, Dresden, Wittenberg 132 

XII. Germany's Capitai 148 

XIII. Farewell to Germany 156 

XIV. Old England 174 

XV. Lowell's Cathedral 190 

XVI. Under Italian Skies — Turin, Milan, Flor- 
ence 198 

XVII. Rome and Naples 210 

XVII I. Athens 225 



viii CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

XIX. Constantinople, Smyrna, and Ephesus 238 

XX. In the Holy City 254 

XXI. Jericho, Jerusalem, and Bethlehem . 266 

XXII. Alexandria, Cairo, the Pyramids . . 279 

XXIII. The Nile and Memphis 290 

XXIV. Sights and People in Cairo .... 302 
XXV. From Egypt to India . . . ... . . 315 

XXVI. Bombay and the Ride to Benares . . 323 

XXVII. Benares 331 

XXVIII. Calcutta . . . . ' 342 

XXIX. Christian Missions— The Bra HMO SoMAj 352 

XXX. Darjeeling, Lucknow, and Cawnpore . 361 

XXXI. Delhi, Lahore, Amritzar ...... 370 

XXXII. Agra and the Taj Mahal 383 

XXXIII. Jeypore to Madras 389 

XXXIV. Madras — the Malabar Coast and 

Madura 403 

XXXV. Ceylon 417 

XXXVI. On the Chjna Coasts ...%.... 431 

XXXVII. Japan and the Japanese 442 

XXXVIII. Home Coming 456 



INDEX 469 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



^ Dr. Barrows and Party at the Pyramids . Frontispiece 

To /ace page 

t' The Boulevard de la Madeleine, Paris .... 52 

/ The Wartburg 128 

V High Street, Oxford 182 

/ The Ponte Vecchio, Florence 206 

■/ The Bethlehem Road 276 

. The University of Cairo 304 

- Sophronios, Greek Patriarch at Alexandria . . 312 

Sir J. M. Tagore, Maharajah Bahadur .... 350 

' The Taj Mahal 3S6 

r'THE Lily Tank, Madura . 414 

%r Daibutsu 450 



A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 



CHAPTER I. 

ON THE SEA. 

■\1 THEN six days of an Atlantic voyage have already 
* passed, one usually begins to snuff the land and to 
realize that the great and wide sea has, after all, become 
only a ferry. Through the wonders of modern navigation, 
the perils which the old vikings braved, and Columbus set 
his strong heart to face, and the voyagers of the " Mayflower" 
heroically withstood and overcame, have been reduced to 
small numbers and proportions, and the crossing of the 
Atlantic is now a tired man's luxury, and the sick man's 
best sanitary device. We have had six days of ideal ocean 
weather in one of the best of steamships, and to-morrow 
there is the prospect of seeing land. 

In all probability, forty-nine fiftieths of my readers have 
never crossed the x\tlantic, and some brief account of 
perhaps the greatest wonder of the modern world may be 
of interest to them, while the other fiftieth will not be averse 
to hearing the wonder retold. How I have wished that 
Leif Ericson, Sebastian Cabot, and Governor Bradford could 
be with us in this richly decorated saloon — where two 
hundred and fifty persons can sit down to a ten-course din- 
ner — and be told that this is a part of a steam-driven ves- 
sel, of twelve thousand five hundred horse-power, which, at 
the speed of nineteen knots an hour, is pursuing an almost 
straight course from the New World to the Old ! A steel- 
ribbed and steel-clad ship, carrying millions of pounds of 



12 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

freight, churning the angry ocean into foam and battHng suc- 
cessfully with the fiercest of unloosed tempests, and furnish- 
ing its passengers with comforts which no middle-age prince 
or king ever enjoyed, is to me a far greater marvel than any 
one of the seven wonders which were the boast of the 
classic world. One striking difference between the former 
and the present marvels of human achievement is this, that 
the recent wonders belong to the realm of life and motion. 
Contrast the pyramids of Egypt with the modern railroad ; 
the hanging gardens of Babylon with the telegraph ; the 
deaf and speechless statue of Jupiter Olympus with the 
telephone ; the mausoleum of Artemisia with the steamship ; 
the Colossus of Rhodes with the Maxim rapid-firing gun ; 
the Temple of Diana with the all-revealing photographic 
Roentgen ray ; and even the Pharos of Alexandria, sending 
light over a few leagues of sea, with the metropolitan news- 
paper gathering light from all the continents and sending it 
out into hundreds of thousands of homes. 

The " Havel," named, like every North German Lloyd 
express steamer between Bremen and New York, from one 
of the rivers of the Fatherland, is twin ship to the " Spree," 
and was built in 1890, It is the most comfortable and satis- 
factory boat on which I have ever crossed the Atlantic, scru- 
pulously clean, beautiful in its decoration, with a promenade 
deck almost entirely covered and thus protecting us from 
many annoyances. One catches something of the spirit of 
Germany, as in the companion-way he looks at the tiled 
decorations representing villages, castles, and churches to be 
seen along the river Havel, or notes the imitations of 
ancient tapestries which deck the splendid saloon. 

It is pleasant to be summoned to one's meals, not by a 
barbarous gong, but by a civilized and inspiring bugle. 
Only musicians are employed as second-cabin stewards, 
and an excellent band plays on deck every morning at 
eleven, so that even seasick passengers are reheartened ; 
while the concert programme, furnished by the orchestra at 
every dinner, lends a new charm to that chief event of the day. 



ON THE SEA. 1 3 

A potpourri of American national airs causes even strangers 
to look up at each other and smile ; and who of us will ever 
forget the sweet, deep pleasure of being wakened on Sun- 
day morning by the playing of " Nearer, m.y God, to Thee " ? 
No air rouses so many people on shipboard as "America," 
for it is the national tune of Great Britain and Germany as 
well as of the United States. At the last celebration of the 
Kaiser's birthday in Gottingen, while the Germans were 
singing to these notes the praise of Germany, a group of 
English girls poured out their patriotism in " God save our 
gracious Queen," and a pair of American girls shouted 
songfuUy, " My country, 't is of thee." Is not this a 
prophecy of the time when the Christian Teutonic races 
shall be still further unified? 

Germany is fast becoming a great naval power as well as 
a formidable colonizing nation. The trident of Neptune, 
as Napoleon said, is the sceptre of the world. Oceans no 
longer separate, but, with the facilities of nineteenth-century 
navigation, they connect, distant peoples. The ninety-seven 
steerage passengers on board the " Havel " probably could not 
afford to take a four- thousand-mile land journey. The water 
makes Australia and Cape Colony contiguous to Kent and 
Lancashire. A few months ago it seemed among the possi- 
bilities that English and German fleets might be facing each 
other in battle ; but birds of calm are now brooding over all 
great Neptune's waves. 

The Germans certainly make excellent purveyors to 
American voyagers, and I owe to them the most restful of 
all my seven trips across the Atlantic. This ship does its 
work without fuss, and one has a feeling of security. The 
German officers are polite and free from irritability. Captain 
Theodore Jiingst, who has made one hundred and twenty- 
five ocean round trips as captain of a vessel, is one of the 
masters of the sea who always remains a gentleman. It is 
a pleasure to see his round and smiling face. Sea life 
appears to agree with the German officers. Their faces 
and bodies expand as they rise in rank. 



14 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Out of regard for my former companions in travel, I dare 
not call this the most delightful of ocean trips. There has 
been a cheerful and restful monotony about it, however, 
very satisfying to us all. The incidents of a sea voyage 
are usually few. The whale is getting to be as rare as the 
buffalo. Porpoises do frisk now and then along the side of 
the ship. Sea gulls and other birds make us wonder if 
aerial navigation will ever be perfected by man. Some- 
times an ocean liner or other ship heaves in sight. The 
sky has usually been bright, the air inspiriting and, on some 
days, strangely warm. Nothing has surprised me more than 
to find that, at the end of the winter, we have had less cold 
and discomfort than I have found in June and September. 

But old Ocean himself, to those fortunate enough to 
enjoy him, is the main fact present to one's consciousness. 
We have had Lowell's " gray vague of unsympathizing sea " 
now and then, but have oftener been gladdened by the old 
Greek poet's " innumerable laughter " of the ocean, as we 
have seen the sun " breaking on the sea's blue shield his 
thousand golden lances." The full moon has thrown her 
" lane of beams athwart the sea " evening after evening, and 
roused the latent sentimentality which is, after all, the best 
part of life. Phosphorescent sparks and flames have given 
a weird enchantment to the night-time, and the usual deck 
games have afforded some interest to the hours of the day. 

I once made a collection of epithets applied by the poets 
to the sea, beginning with old Homer's " wine-colored " 
deep, not omitting the strong adjectives of the Hebrew 
singers and the picturesque epithets of some of the Greek 
tragedians. Such words as '' unharvested," "fruitful," 
" immeasurable," " eternal," " hungry," " unsympathizing," 
"silver," "summer," "weary," "great and wide," "laugh- 
ing," "dismal," "mysterious," and a score of others help 
us to look at one of the greatest facts and forces in the life 
of this marvellous organism, the earth, with other and wiser 
eyes than our own. William Watson's recent " Hymn to 
the Sea " is perhaps the high-water mark of his genius. 



ON THE SEA. 1 5 

What a wealth of musical words this rhythmic Croesus 
flings with lavish hand over the smiling and frowning vast- 
ness and variety of ocean ! 

There is one fact about the deep which every sailor 
knows, and every boy who puts out in a dory from Glouces- 
ter or Lynn, and that is that the sea is inconstant in his 
moods. With the stars shining and the variable moon still 
beaming, our ship slid into a heaving and angry world of 
billows that gave us a night of it. In twenty-five thousand 
miles of ocean travel I never knew a steamer suffer so much 
from dehrium tremens. The children standing on their 
heads and then on their feet while trying to repose in bed, 
every loose thing in every state-room jumping to the floor 
and then skating merrily from berth to doorway, what 
seemed like a hundred cannon-balls or mighty chunks of 
ice rolling and sliding in neighboring kitchens and store- 
rooms, the din and crash of falling pans and dishes, the 
various untheological remarks of excited stewards and pas- 
sengers in the corridors, and the hysterical laughter which 
proceeded from rooms where benevolent voyagers were 
striving to lash rebellious trunks with rope and towel, — 
such were a few of the pleasant and picturesque features of 
the night when the sea pounded the " Havel," but succeeded 
in diminishing by only a few miles the average run of the 
sturdy vessel. 

The point reached every midday is marked on the chart 
near the smoking-room by a German flag. An American 
flag is planted in New York and the union jack in South- 
ampton, and it has been pleasant in the last week to see 
the black, red and white flags of Germany stretching, in 
ever-lengthening line, across the Atlantic. On the afternoon 
of March third Bishop's Light appeared off the Scilly Isl- 
ands, and we felt that our course was about finished. But 
the captain, now that land was in sight and the passengers 
free from care, took to the bridge, and was seen no more in 
the dining-saloon. 

The day following the night of unrest gave us the sight 



1 6 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

of as beautiful and sublime a sea as one often beholds. 
With the sun brightly shining on pearly crests and emerald 
crags, with the glories of Switzerland reproduced on the 
moving face of the deep, enhanced by changing lights and 
shadows, every spectator with his sea-legs on felt himself an 
incipient poet. There are forms of beauty and forces of 
tremendous power which bring out on deck even the beer- 
soaked and ham-filled players from the ship's smoking-room. 
The approach of land ever appears to be the signal and oc- 
casion of more generous drinking, though I must praise my 
fellow-passengers for their general and unusual moderation. 
The American and English gentlemen who crowd the sum- 
mer steamers evidently find on board an abundance of 
liquids more potent than the vintages of the Rhineland and 
the products of the Bavarian breweries. 

One delightful thing about the Germans is the beautiful 
habit of taking with them always their national sentimental- 
ism. As a people they must have their music and their 
shows. But on this voyage they have been careful, in 
music and everything else, not to display any offensive 
patriotism. On the evening before reaching Southampton 
we had the " captain's dinner." The children were ex- 
cited by what they called the Christmas trees adorning 
the tables. These were cones of fancy cakes and confec- 
tionery decorated with German and American flags and 
the flags of Bremen and of the German Lloyd line. One 
cone was surmounted by the " Germania " and the other by 
the Bartholdi statue. After the pudding had been served, 
the lights were suddenly extinguished and, while the orches- 
tra played " America," the doors of the saloon opened and 
the twelve stewards filed in and marched twice around the 
tables, carrying illuminated blocks of ice and large Japanese 
lanterns shaped like crowns, globes, and castles, and the 
happy diners cheered the picturesque and beautiful proces- 
sion. Such is the way the captain and the chief steward 
had of saying, ^- This is our last night together ; let us all 
be friends." 



ON THE SEA. 1/ 

On the evening of March third our ship talked with an- 
other ship at sea by means of red and white Roman candles, 
and each learned that her neighbor belonged to the same 
line. At three o'clock in the morning the " Havel " lay along 
her new docks at Southampton, and at seven o'clock twenty 
of our passengers had left us. In coming to this port we had 
crossed the waters over which the great British navigators 
had sailed to the exploration and conquest of the globe. 
We had seen in the afternoon the light-house and station at 
Lizard Point, from which our arrival was announced on 
both sides of the sea ; Eddystone, most famous of all light- 
houses ; far ofif from shore we had passed Plymouth, and 
forsaking the Cornish and Devonshire coasts had reached 
The Needles, by the Isle of Wight, and steaming up Severn 
Water had come to the harbor from which Richard Coeur 
de Lion had sailed on his crusade, and Henry V. had set 
forth for France and the " sounding bows of Agincourt." 

Eager to reach the mouth of the Weser, the " Havel " sailed 
down the Severn stream as the sun, brightening and coloring 
vast heaps of clouds, rose over the English coast on our left. 
Strangely beautiful lights cast enchantment over land and 
water. Many hundreds of sea-gulls, their white v/ings given 
a golden splendor in the morning light, sailed after us. 
On the starboard the Isle of Wight soon appeared, and in a 
few minutes the towers of Osborne, with green fields slop- 
ing to the shores, and then Ryde, and later Portsmouth on 
our left, the fortifications in the channel and other tokens 
of England's mihtary and naval strength ; and then on 
through the day we passed by Brighton and Beachy Head, 
sometimes seeing more than thirty ships at once. We 
were crossing the track of William the Conqueror. Over 
there was Hastings. Yonder were the white cliffs of Dover 
— the silver parapets of England. A little farther on is 
Deal, where Caesar landed. We have crossed the path of 
the mighty Julius, " the greatest man that ever lived in the 
tide of time." But ancient history does not make us par- 
ticularly happy to-day. 



1 8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Our minds are on the affairs of the present. We have 
touched the world again, — the world of international dis- 
putes and rivalries. Our little world on the steamer had 
no quarrels. To be sure, the orchestra played " Marching 
through Georgia " and '' Dixie," but these are the vanish- 
ing memorials of a buried contest. And some wise genius 
will yet write other words for " Marching through Georgia," 
or else the good sense and good feeling of America will rele- 
gate that stirring lyric to oblivion. At Southampton the 
" New York Herald" and the London dailies came aboard, 
and we read, not only of the arbitration meeting in London, 
but also of the enormous expenditures England proposes for 
Gibraltar, and of the debate in the American Congress over 
according belligerent rights to Cuban insurgents and of 
Spain's hot indignation. 

America occupied more space than formerly in a London 
journal, but the "Daily News," which we read, seemed un- 
gracious in nearly every reference to us, and it certainly was 
in some things grossly inaccurate. I was not persuaded, 
even by seeing the statement in print, that the American 
press was practically unanimous in condemning the pro- 
posed action of Congress. I have heard for the last few 
months that England was boiling over with love to America. 
I know that many noble Englishmen love our Republic, 
and I believe that America is dear to the English common 
people generally. But what odd ways some English edi- 
tors and diplomats have of showing their affection ! One 
thinks of the couplet, — 

" Perhaps she did right in concealing her love, 
But why did she kick me downstairs ? " 

One is also reminded that in " The House-boat on the 
Styx " Dr. Samuel Johnson says, " My feeling is not worth 
expressing," and Thackeray suggests that he had " better 
send it by freight." British affection for America often 
comes by slow carriage. I suppose the truth is that the 
worst offence which the Englishman gives other people is 



ON THE SEA. 1 9 

his unconscious tone of superiority. If editors and dip- 
lomats in London would reread Mr. Lowell's essay on " A 
Certain Condescension in Foreigners," Anglo-American 
complications might be less frequent. 

The trouble with all of us is that we become too familiar 
with the worst sides of each other. It would be unfair to 
judge England by the five Englishmen who boarded our 
steamer at Southampton. All had been drinking too 
heavily and wanted to drink more. Some of them invited 
the strangers on our ship to a bout. One of them, shortly 
after calling for whiskey and soda, fell down in a drunken 
fit on the deck. The ship's doctor was sent for ; but this 
gentleman, who carries his degree from a German university 
written in duelling scars on his face, glanced contemptu- 
ously at the fallen young hero, and turned away, saying, 
" He '11 get over it." International courtesy is a prelude 
to international peace. And courtesy, while it can come 
only from a good heart, is fostered by a wide acquaintance 
with what is best in other peoples. Professor James Bryce, 
after frequent and prolonged visits to America, writes " The 
American Commonwealth." William T. Stead makes a 
study of the black side of one city, and writes " If Christ 
came to Chicago." 

But the German ocean has been safely crossed ; we have 
rounded Holland, and Bremerhaven is reached at seven 
o'clock this morning. This entrance to the Old World is 
not so picturesque as many another which we might have 
taken. The approach to England at Southampton is far 
more beautiful ; the approach to Scotland at Glasgow is 
more impressive. But nothing could exceed the joy of 
some of our fellow-passengers as the " Havel " dropped 
her anchor into the swift current of the Weser and two 
tenders drew alongside of us to take the passengers, mail, 
and luggage to the shore. One of these passengers had 
sailed from Bremerhaven forty-one years before. He was 
then too poor, he told me, to take passage in the side- 
wheel steamer, which would have carried him across the 



20 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Atlantic in three weeks. Before his sailing vessel had 
reached Philadelphia, the steamer had gone over and re- 
turned. Now, for the first time, he saw again the German 
coast. What struck me in these German Americans was 
their intense, I will not say excessive, Americanism. It 
reinforces my faith and hope in the great Republic and my 
love for her institutions, to realize what a strong grip Amer- 
ica has gained on the hearts of these sturdy, honest, and 
big-brained Germans, who have become truly incorporated 
into our national life. Some of them said to me that they 
could never again feel quite at home in the Fatherland. I 
think that they have a keener appreciation of the distinctive 
excellence and charm of our free American life than many 
of us to the manor born. 

One of the last duties of the passenger who leaves his 
ship is to make a just and equitable distribution of fees 
among the stewards who have served him. On a German 
boat this duty is also a pleasure, for the service rendered 
has been cheerful, and the hungry expectation of large fees 
has not been apparent. German servants, both on land 
and sea, have not yet been brought to that high standard of 
demand which is sometimes so grievous to the American 
housekeeper. 

As the tender leaves the " Havel," Captain Jiingst waves 
his farewells from the promenade deck, the band plays a re- 
sounding and cheerful air, the passengers respond with voice 
and hand, and, as we withdraw from the iron steamer which 
has been our home, we gain the most vivid impression of 
its strength and majesty. We shall feel a greater security, 
as other voyages are contemplated, when we recall how 
regal and stalwart and victorious the " Havel " appeared to 
us on that misty morning. Fear not the ocean, O American 
friends ; it is more perilous to cross Broadway. It appears 
easier to tame the elements on the boisterous sea than to 
assure a man a safe journey from his city home to his place 
of business ! Silk hats and fine clothes usually blossom out 
at the end of a voyage, and passengers sometimes fail of 



ON THE SEA. 21 

mutual recognition. This could hardly be said of us at the 
close of this winter passage. Friendliness increased up to 
the moment of separation and farewell. "Jetzt sind wir 
auf deutschem Boden " ("Now we are on German soil") 
was the frequent and glad exclamation of one of my com- 
panions. Bremerhaven, the port of Bremen, about thirty 
miles from that famous city, is almost as close to the sea 
as Venice, and the quays were hugged by many iron steam- 
ers which had conquered all the seas. Some of them had 
passed through the Suez Canal and found the shorter way 
to the Orient. Some of these prows had cut "the long 
wash of Australasian seas," or had sailed into the ports 
of China and Japan. 

The custom-house is the first bugbear in landing on a 
foreign shore. As I intended to make a long stay in Ger- 
many, I had brought with me many books, a type-writer, 
and a chafing-dish, together with four letter-files filled with 
sermons and lectures, and clothing for a family of six. I 
had taken the precaution of securing from the German 
Consul in Chicago a statement regarding myself, my pur- 
poses, and my effects, and, armed with this paper, I sta- 
tioned myself behind my eight hundred pounds of luggage. 
The hand-baggage went through unscathed ; the trunks 
were one by one unlocked and explored by German offi- 
cials. The type-writer and chafing-dish made no impres- 
sion on the Teutonic mind ; the sermons were evidently 
considered to have done duty already ; the books were 
passed without remark. But a few pounds of delicious 
American candy, " friendship's offering " to our girls in 
Gottingen, were seized upon, v^eighed, and charged with 
an impost of two marks and forty pfennigs ! This was 
my total contribution to the government of the German 
Empire. 

The large and comfortable waiting-room into which we 
were ushered at Bremerhaven held us for more than an 
hour before the train was ready for Bremen. Most of the 
passengers occupied the time with beer, the great time- 



22 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

killer on the Continent. A telegram was sent, a letter 
received, and I felt that my family were reunited. The spe- 
cial train which carried us to Bremen passed through a flat 
and fertile region, where some of my companions saw for 
the first time the true Fatherland of the English as well as of 
the German race. From these shores came the men, the 
brave and hardy warriors and sailors, who contributed most 
to the making of England. Reaching Bremen, we discov- 
ered that we must leave our luggage in the hands of for- 
warding-agents and take the train at once for Hanover and 
Gottingen. We were to fulfil the promise of the telegram 
and reach our destination that evening. Filling his arms 
with luncheon, the " Generous Provider " drove his flock 
into a car, and we were soon speeding at ten German miles 
an hour (which are equal to forty English miles) southward 
toward the city whence England imported her kings. At 
" famous Hanover city " we changed into another car, and 
there lost sight of the last of our fellow-passengers on the 
" Havel." They had scattered in a dozen directions, going 
to Berlin, Leipsic, Prague, Vienna, Dresden, Cologne, Turin, 
Paris. 

The longest part of our four thousand eight hundred 
miles of travel was the hour and a half between Hanover 
and Gottingen ! We were in a Harmonica-zug, a train 
somewhat like a vestibule-train, with a corridor running 
along one side of the compartments, where each passenger 
paid one mark extra for his seat. Established here, we 
ordered Seltzer Wasser to quench our thirst and to cool 
our feverishness. The country grew rapidly pretty and pic- 
turesque as we came into the Hartz-mountain region. Our 
good train was precisely on time, — this is not an unwonted 
thing in Germany; the dreams which we had cherished 
since last October were realized, and with interested and 
joyfully sympathetic spectators pushing their heads out of 
the car-windows, the members of my family with shouts and 
kisses rushed into each other's arms ! From Chicago to 
Gottingen we have come from the rushing and exhausting 



ON THE SEA. 23 

life of the busiest of American cities, where one must think 
on the run, to the leisure and tranquilhty of this studious 
town, where no one appears to be in a hurry, where the 
denominator of life has already been greatly reduced for 
us, but where we hope to continue our loving and constant 
acquaintance with the old life in America, which, after all, 
makes life for us worth living. 



CHAPTER II. 

TWO GOTTINGEN WALKS. 

T HAVE already, three different times^ peeped into the 
-^ life of the Fatherland, but now for the first time I live 
among German people, sharing their daily life, eating of 
their abundant food, sleeping under their mountainous 
feather beds, and hearing from morning till night the 
musical bubble and sputter of their strong, queer, ex- 
uberant speech. The ocean that was so kind to us is 
already an ancient memory. 

1 have found the change from the noisy rush of hfe in a 
great American city to this home of quietness in the heart 
of old Germany far from stupid, and really of deep interest 
because it has discovered to me an undreamed-of relish for 
rest and retirement. It happens that the university stu- 
dents are now enjoying the spring vacation. The summer 
semester does not begin until April fifteenth, and this is only 
a nominal beginning, for the lectures will not be opened, in 
all probability, till the very last of the month. Even the 
Pro-rector is not always on hand when the term begins. 
Think of President Eliot or President Harper behaving like 
that ! And the professors take their own time for starting 
in with their Vorlesungen. The old city is therefore un- 
usually still. 

I think I can best introduce my new home to my old 
friends by inviting them to two walks, — the first along the 
rampart, or old wall, which surrounds the ancient city. It 
is half-past seven o'clock, and in company with my oldest 
daughter I am taking my son to school, and for the first 
time he and I are to enter a German schoolhouse. Per- 



TJVO GOTTINGEN WALKS. 2$ 

mission has already been gained for him to be admitted 
into the Kaiser Wilhelm 11. Realschule, where the tuition is 
twelve and a half marks a semester. Still, this is a public 
school, under the control of the German government. 

A few minutes bring us to the wall, now tamed to a lovers' 
walk, beneath whose magnificent trees we find ourselves fol- 
lowing a path which not only encompasses the city but also 
leads out into dreamland. The first wall about Gottingen 
was built at the beginning of the tenth century, by the com- 
mand of the Emperor Henry L, and was intended to protect 
the town from the destroying Huns, whose fiery incursions 
made German life rather interesting in those days. All that 
is now left of this original defence is a fragment of wall in a 
meaner part of the city which the inhabitants rather con- 
temptuously call " Little Paris." The present rampart, 
made mostly of earth, was two hundred years in building, 
and was finished only three hundred and twenty-five years 
ago. Many of the trees in the double rows that line and 
shelter this beautiful promenade appear to be about two 
centuries old. I know no finer walk in the world. The 
Unter den Linden in Berlin is not to be mentioned in the 
same breath with it. 

We see at once that the town has outgrown its ancient 
hmits, and that much of the best part of it is now outside 
the wall. We look over a city of more than twenty-five 
thousand inhabitants, which, according to James Morgan 
Hart, in his book on "German Universities," contained in 
1 86 1 only about twelve thousand. When Motley was here 
in 1832, it must have been considerably smaller. I have 
found the city picturesque, with modern shops and broader 
ways blending with the narrow, old, winding streets, where 
the mud-walled houses are often covered with pictures and 
decorations somewhat like those on the fine German build- 
ing at the Columbian Fair. 

From an elevated promenade we look between the lime- 
trees and beyond the towers of the old churches, and get a 
glimpse of the country lying about Gottingen. Here is a 



26 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

broad, open plain, not unlike that of the Connecticut valley, 
creeping up on all sides into hills, which furnish innumer- 
able walks for a people who find walking one of their chief 
recreations. There are several ruined castles in the neigh- 
borhood, one of which — Plesse — is considered fine. But 
the best part of our walk in the morning air is the company 
we keep. 

For a university town, which has harbored many famous 
men, one is strangely free from those thronging and delight- 
ful impressions which make the magic of Oxford. The ivy- 
hushed seclusions are not here, nor the pavements that 
seem sweet with the "immemorial lisp" of the musing 
feet of scholars. The Germans are pre-eminently prac- 
tical and prosaic in building their universities. There are 
no grandeurs of architecture ; there is no picturesque 
grouping of buildings. Harvard, Yale, Cornell, our own 
University, and several American colleges outrank Got- 
tingen in architectural splendor and impressiveness. I 
should not say, with another, that the prevailing type of the 
English University suggests that it is all body, and that the 
prevailing type of the German University suggests that it is 
all soul ; but even this strong, one-sided statement points 
and leads the way to an apprehension of the marked and 
suggestive difference between such a university as that by 
the Isis and this younger seat of learning on the Leine. 
With this introduction let me now add the statement that 
only on the famous promenade about the town have I 
deeply felt the presence of those spiritual guests who throng 
and dignify so many parts of this Old World. 

But who are our companions in this early morning stroll ? 
First of all, I feel the presence of Heine, the German poet, 
who, as Matthew Arnold believed, was Goethe's chief suc- 
cessor. Many Germans dislike and hate him; and this 
university, which found it convenient to get rid of him 
in 1820, has no great affection for the irreverent satirist, 
who yet had, what few Germans ever attain to, a graceful 
and rhythmical style. Heine worshipped the great Napo- 



TWO G'OTTINGEN WALKS. 2/ 

leon, and why should Germany love him? Did he not 
begin his Hartz-Journey with these words? — 

" The town of Gottingen, famous for its sausages and uni- 
versity, belongs to the King of Hanover, and contains nine 
hundred and ninety-nine firesides, several churches, an 
observatory, a prison, a library, and a Rathskeller, where 
the beer is very good." 

And after Heine, in my imagination, though thirty years 
before him in time, walks Samuel Taylor Coleridge. How 
often he must have mused and spun out his endless specu- 
lations as he made the circuit of the town on this rampart ! 
Few poets have given us intenser pleasure than this man, 
who was able to write a few perfect things. I have already 
met him in the vale of Chamonix, and seen the sunrise 
over Mont Blanc through his illumined and reverent vis- 
ion. Every voyager who knows " The Ancient Mariner " 
meets him on the sea, and now and then in some highland 
nook by some tiny cascade, the traveller repeats after him : 

" Beneath yon birch with silver bark 
And boughs so pendulous and fair, 
The brook falls scattered down the rock, 
And all is mossy there." 

Of course we meet Bancroft and Everett in our walk. 
The grandiose American historian and the Ciceronian ora- 
tor are very welcome and noble company. But even more 
interesting to me is the youthful form of the most popular 
of American poets, — Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, He 
is the one American singer whom Germany has, in a meas- 
ure, adopted. There is much in Germany akin to the 
spirit of Longfellow, as all know who have read the " Golden 
Legend," or his volumes of melodious prose. Of course 
we shall always affectionately claim the bard who gave us 
" Evangeline " and " Hiawatha," smacking of our own soil ; 
but his genius had not in it the Americanism of Emerson, 
Lowell, Whittier, and Holmes. None the less he is loved. 
He is one of the golden links binding us to the storied 
past of the Fatheriand, and I am glad to see him as he 



28 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

appeared in his enchanted youth, pacing slowly beneath 
these trees, and watching the sun rise over the Hartz 
mountains. Schopenhauer brooded his pessimism beneath 
these shades, incredible as it may seem, and Hermann 
Lotze meditated here his deeper and truer thoughts. 

But the greatest figure that ever walked this rampart was 
that of Count Bismarck, now Prince Bismarck, chief builder 
of the German Empire. Gottingen loves the Iron Chan- 
cellor, who once lived here the rollicking, duelling life of 
the German student. When his name is toasted on the 
Kaiser's birthday, the students, professors, and guests give 
it the loudest of greetings, and sing the Bismarck song with 
most fervent enthusiasm. The house where he lived as a 
student in 1832 and 1833, and from whose window it is said 
that he jumped into the Leine canal to escape from a visit- 
ing creditor, bears the inscription of his name with the date. 
And yonder to the southeast on a hill, about two miles 
away, stands the beautiful and recently builded Bismarck 
Tower, a grand place of observation, a stately landmark, 
and a noble memorial of the proud love which the Georgia 
Augusta University of Gottingen bears to her most illus- 
trious son. 

Our own historian. Motley, lived yonder in the Buch- 
strasse, near the great library, while Bismarck was carrying 
on his somewhat prankish career in this town; and the 
two began here that cordial friendship which lasted till Mot- 
ley's death. Cane in hand, walking rapidly and talking 
rapidly, these famous young men meet us in our morning 
promenade. I have had a chivalrous devotion to Motley ever 
since I read, in college days, his " Rise of the Dutch Re- 
public." This knight of learning, who, with all the Ameri- 
can's fineness of organization, had a German professor's 
invincible energy in plodding through libraries and archives 
and toiling over almost indecipherable manuscripts, has 
made Holland a second fatherland to American lovers of 
liberty, and I can never think of his friendship with Bis- 
marck as the union of spirits who cherished similar con- 



TWO G'OTTINGEN WALKS. 29 

victions in regard to all fundamental matters of government. 
And yet Motley rejoiced in the unification of Germany as 
he did also in the saving and cementing of our American 
nationality. 

As we walk about the rampart, we may look down into 
the Botanical Gardens, occupying the place where the an- 
cient moat formed one of the defences of the city. Rows 
of white boards record the names of flowers that spring 
from hundreds of little mounds. But profane students 
affirm that these are the graves of privat-docents, who died 
early, seeking in vain to extract the milk of life from the 
barren breast of a German University ! Through an open- 
ing in the trees we catch a glimpse of the Albani Kirche, 
the oldest church in Gottingen ; for although the present 
building dates back only to 1423, it stands on the site of 
the altar at which St. Bonifacius ministered in the middle 
of the eighth century. For more than eleven hundred 
years the fires of Christian faith have burned on that sacred 
hearth. And there, before Charlemagne was crowned, and 
when all was savage in this home of our Saxon ancestors, 
the saintly preacher uplifted the Cross, there proclaimed 
the message of light and of life to which the German world 
owes its vitality, its civilization, its purity, and its hope. 

Descending from the wall by the Geismar Thor, we pass 
near the barracks, where, even at this early hour, several 
hundred imperial soldiers are being put very energetically 
and noisily through their drill. The schoolboys, each with 
a knapsack of books strapped over his shoulders, are going 
with us toward the new brick schoolhouse. The army and 
the school have probably made modern Germany what it is. 
Something of the military spirit enters even into education. 
The boys everywhere play soldier, and you feel the hand of 
the government at every turn. As I committed my little 
boy into the keeping of Herr Director Ahrends, I in- 
quired whether I might enter the schoolroom and listen 
to the exercises. He smiled as he shook his head and 
said, — 



30 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

" Not without permission from the Kultus Minister in 
Berlin." 

To be a good traveller in Europe, one needs a pair of 
good legs and the habit of walking. He needs also a pair 
of good eyes trained to careful observation. Furthermore, 
he should possess the social, appreciative, and unprejudiced 
spirit which enters sympathetically into the lives of other 
peoples. I find that some of my fellow-countrymen are 
bad travellers in the Old World because their fundamental 
creed may be expressed in these words : Difference from 
America is the measure of absurdity. Such people would 
doubtless discover an immense variety of things with which 
to find fault in the life, the ways, and the surroundings of 
this old city of Gottingen ; but I have fallen in love with 
some of the features of German life as they are disclosed 
to me here. 

After all, one of the chief requirements in the traveller or 
visitor amid such regions as this is a pair of eyes in the 
back of his mind. It is the ability to see the life that has 
been, the disposition to brood over the scenes of remote 
generations, and the delight in tracing the picturesque and 
majestic historic evolutions which connect the present with 
the shadowy remoteness of distant ages, which furnish 
the keenest pleasure in a walk like this one around the 
rampart, or like another stroll I have taken. This second 
walk will be far longer than that which the Autocrat and 
the schoolmistress took together across Boston Common 
and through their brief life pilgrimage. The two miles 
from Gottingen to Weende will carry us through more than 
one thousand years of history. 

A sudden snowstorm had covered the grass, crocuses, and 
hepaticas ; had touched with harmless white fingers the 
hardy buds on all the trees, and then had passed quickly 
away, leaving the sun an opportunity of removing in a few 
minutes nearly all traces of the storm. How bright and 
fresh the world of the spring-time appeared as I set out 
upon this tramp, in the company of one who at present 



TWO GOTTINGEN WALKS. 3 1 

bears the new appellation of Frau Doctorin. Our home is 
outside the walls, in the newer and higher part of the 
town. But our walk led us back by the rampart to Got- 
tingen's Auditorium, the very respectable lecture-hall of the 
university. We are on Weender-strasse, the leading street 
of the town. Over there on the left are the houses, prop- 
erly marked, in which Edward Everett and George Ban- 
croft each spent two years laying the foundations of the 
broader culture which served them so well in later life. 

This Weender-strasse is one of the oldest paths worn by 
the feet of European men. It reaches not only to the little 
Dorf of Weende, two miles away, whither we are now tend- 
ing, but on down the valley, and runs into the main high- 
way from Frankfort on the south to Hanover and Bremen 
on the north. What a motley procession, from the days of 
these German students and Russian, Greek, English, and 
American visitors, away back through all the periods of 
German history, has tramped this way ! Oh for a spiritual 
kodak wherewith to photograph the vanished forms of 
savage warriors, of armored knights, of grand dukes, kings, 
and kaisers, who have streamed along this path ! 

There upon our left rises the Burg Grona, or rather the 
hilly site of the old residence of the counts, and also one 
of the residences of the German kaisers of the Saxon stem. 
The first of that line — Henry the Fowler, so called because 
he was bird-catching when he received the news of his 
nomination asking — lived there in the year 919. How 
interested we should be to see this king of the Franks, 
with his retinue, coming down from the old castle, or to 
look at his more famous son, Otho the Great, the monarch 
who deposed popes, conquered Bohemia, and forced the 
King of Denmark to become a convert to Christianity ! 
It was back in the time of the great Otho that silver- 
mines were first discovered in the Hartz mountains, over 
yonder on our right. And here, too, in the Burg Grona, 
lived, now and then, the son and grandson of Otho the 
Great, the kaisers bearing the names of Otho the Red and 



32 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Otho III. And the Burg is associated also with the last of 
the Saxon emperors, who succeeded to the throne of Charle- 
magne, and was crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle in the year 

I002. 

But we turn our faces northward, leaving the Weender 
Thor behind us, and walk toward the open fields. In a 
few minutes we can see the full width of the broad valley of 
the Leine, sweeping on either side over wide meadows, and 
very gently climbing toward the verdured hills. As we look 
back upon the town, above whose housetops rise the spires 
of the Jacobi Kirche and the Johannis Kirche, we see how 
it appears to be the natural centre of paths and roads lead- 
ing down from all these hil'y slopes. If our eyes were 
opened — and I hope that we have read enough of the 
early history of our race to open them — we should see, far 
back in the twilight of German history, little bands of 
strangely clad foresters, peasants, hunters, warriors, stream- 
ing down these hillsides to Gottingen, to the primitive town 
meeting, or county meeting, the cradle of the hberties of 
the English-speaking nations. The men who in that 
remote past dwelt in their rude huts on these hills of the 
Leine assembled in this county court, presided over by 
some Graf, a court which survived through the middle ages, 
though more and more curtailed of its privileges. 

Forgetting for the moment the transformations and 
sometimes the almost complete destruction of the forms of 
free government, it is well to remember that our own price- 
less liberties had their roots in these early town meetings. 
This is the region from which the builders of England went 
out, and the language which the peasant population speak 
to-day in the Hartz country — the Piatt Deutsch — resem- 
bles more closely our English speech than does the kindred 
German which now overlies the more ancient tongue. A 
direct line reaches from these early assemblies to the town 
meetings of New England and the self-governing institu- 
tions of all English-speaking countries, I remember that 
the latest biographer of Samuel Adams vividly suggests the 



TWO G'OTTINGEN WALKS. 33 

ancestry of our liberties in writing that the Old State House 
in Boston had witnessed scenes as memorable as any in the 
whole history of Anglo-Saxon freedom since our fathers 
clashed their shields together in token of approval in the 
forests of the Elbe and the Weser. And the Leine is a 
branch of the Weser. 

It is a plucky people that has inhabited yonder city for 
the last thousand years. The cloth-weavers and other 
burghers of Gottingen were as valorous in fighting marauding 
knights and pillaging counts and oppressive dukes as were 
the citizens of Amsterdam and Leyden. They had the 
fighting spirit of their savage fathers, who, under the 
leadership of Arminius, defeated the Roman legions in 
the year 9 of the Christian era. The scene of that fight, 
an hour's journey from where we are now walking, has 
been recently marked by a great statue of Arminius, or 
Hermann. In the Rathhaus I have read the motto of the 
town, which recalls, in vigorous German rhyme, that the 
city was foremost in strife, bravely loyal to Luther, and 
devoted to wisdom. This Protestant city suffered terribly 
in the Thirty Years' War, and was besieged by Tilly. 

What a long, strange history has been that of German 
unification ! The site of the Bismarck Tower on the height 
over yonder recalls to our minds the fact that this century 
and our own generation have seen the completion of this 
effort and struggle toward unity. A great race, with a 
common language and system of laws handed down from 
Roman times, was divided and weakened by a score of 
petty sovereignties, and it was given to one man, once a 
reckless student in Gottingen, to fulfil the aspirations and 
to reahze the dreams of the Fatherland. 

The Holy Roman Empire, which, as Voltaire said, was 
neither holy, Roman, nor an empire, finally disappeared in 
the first of this century. It has vanished as completely as 
the castle on the Burg Grona, where upon a huge stone we 
are told that once the Saxon kaisers lived here, while 
beneath is a Latin inscription to the effect that wheat now 

3 



34 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

grows on the soil where IHum once stood. But the new 
German Empire is to-day almost the greatest military and 
national force in European Ufe. Who doubts that Bismarck's 
name will loom up before future generations almost like 
that of Charlemagne ! He who knows what has gone on 
in yonder little town and what waves of stormy struggle have 
rolled about it, knows the main stream of German history 
for two thousand years. 

Our walk has led us past a cemetery, a sugar factory, a 
Gasthaus or two, and near the track of the railway over 
which four weeks ago that train now passing, the Har- 
monica-zug, brought us, at this very hour, into Gottingen. 
The fields lie open to the sky, and the cloud shadows on 
the hills are beautiful. Yonder rises the spire of the 
Nicolausberg church. People everywhere seem to live only 
in villages or larger towns. The farm-houses dotting the 
landscape here and there in America are rarely seen here. 
From time immemorial people in these regions have flocked 
together for defence from savage beasts and savage men. 
The forms and features of life to-day were determined 
largely by ^conditions which prevailed thousands of years 
ago. The church spires in yonder city and in those pictur- 
esque villages recall the fact that our faith has been preached 
here for more than ten long centuries \ but the Easter 
bonfires which lighted all these hills two evenings after our 
walk are memorials of the customs of our Saxon fathers and 
of the days when these worshippers of the wild gods of the 
north saluted the coming of the spring with fiery beacons 
and joyful hymns. 

Our walk ends with the little Dorf, whose churchyard 
is the only German cemetery that I have thus far vis- 
ited. It might have been just such a scene as this that 
inspired Gray to write his immortal elegy. The rude 
forefathers of this hamlet, together with some of nobler 
name, lie buried here — or rest in God, as the frequent 
inscription tells us. Our walk has suggested or recalled 
many of the splendid or bloody pageants of history. But 



TWO GOTTINGEN WALKS. 35 

here we feel anew that the paths of glory lead but to the 
grave. One bright inscription sent my thoughts four thou- 
sand miles away on happy wings to my own city of the West. 
I read, in German, the words from which I had preached 
my final sermon to the people and community that I love 
so well : " Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three ; but 
the greatest of these is love." Amid all that is transitory — 
dynasties, castles, kings, dukes, languages, towns, customs, 
and creeds — there remain immortal treasures against which 
even the hand of death is powerless. The morning mail 
from America had brought us rich treasures of affection ; 
and as we walked home, though the clouds gathered again 
and followed us like a black army up the valley, the 
messages from the New World filled our hearts with cheer, 
and seemed to spread over the darkening hills a spiritual 
splendor, some gleams of the light that never was on sea 
or land. 



CHAPTER III. 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF GERMAN LIFE. 

'"PO me the most astonishing contrast between my present 
-*- and my former environment is the fact that spring is 
here a beautiful reality and not " a pious fraud in the alma- 
nac." The Province of Hanover is in the same latitude 
vi^ith Labrador, but it has the spring climate of Virginia. I 
have seen people on the sixteenth of March enjoying their 
bread and beer sitting out of doors. One great gush of 
blossoms is now storming the world. Our tables are cov- 
ered with bouquets of " February flowers," so called because 
they sometimes blossom in the second month of the year. 
The gardens are golden with crocuses and blue with hepat- 
icas, over which I watched the bees and butterflies hovering 
as I took my yesterday's stroll. Nowhere else have I seen 
hepaticas so large, and nowhere else have I found them in 
gardens in such beautiful profusion. The ancestors of these 
blue firstlings of March may have decked the yellow tresses 
of Saxon maidens who cheered the warriors that marched 
over these hills and through these valleys nearly two thou- 
sand years ago, to fight the legions of Rome. Yes, the 
German spring has a charm of its own, and is not confused 
with summer, as with us in America. 

Passing from the world of nature to the world of human 
life, I find that I have at last gotten beyond the stirring 
domain of the metropolitan morning journal. The first 
interest of every American citizen, as he rouses himself 
from slumber, is not his coffee, but his paper. " What is 
the news from the stock market? What is going on in 
Washington or in London? What has happened in Paris 



FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF GERMAN LIFE. 37 

or South Africa? What is the society news? What fires, 
accidents, murders, scandals are giving a lurid interest to 
life?" Here, when we wish any tidings of the outside 
world, we resort to the Cafe National and look over the 
" London Times." Little dailies are published in Gottingen, 
but they are far from exciting, and contain few items of 
news, except from Hanover and Berlin. So far as I have 
heard, the only thing that ever roused Gottingen to any 
high-pitched excitement was Roentgen's discovery, which 
has filled all the book-stores and print-shops here with a 
variety of interesting photographs. 

We are living in a newly built house containing what is 
here a rare luxury, a bath-tub. Still, cleanliness is a Ger- 
man virtue. Brooms, however, are little used. The maids, 
crawling around the floor, give it a hasty brush, and then, 
every morning, thoroughly wash it with an abundance of 
water. We have had a wet winter, and two American 
young women found their floors so continually damp that 
they were forced to wear rubbers in their rooms all the 
time from December to March ! Housekeeping is simpli- 
fied and its cares lessened by the absence of the formidable 
American breakfast. Any time before ten o'clock we go to 
the dining-room, singly or in pairs, and take our bread and 
coffee with the additional luxury of one or more eggs. 
How we come to enjoy the hard German rolls ! And what 
a contrast this German bread, the Schwartz-brod and the 
Zwiebach, presents to the great variety of soft breads which 
help to weaken and spoil our American teeth ! Dinner 
comes at two o'clock, and, with us, is profuse and generous. 
Some of its characteristic features are chopped meats 
roasted, lentils, peas and carrots together, beans and apples 
together, stewed fruit and a delicious variety of puddings 
and cakes. No beer or coffee is served with our dinner. 
At half-past four, earlier or later, coffee (or tea) is made 
ready with Zwiebach and Kuchen. This is the meal to 
which we are expected to invite our friends, and it can be 
served in our own sitting-room. Supper is ready at eight 



38 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

o'clock, and then, besides several hot dishes, we have 
cold meats and a variety of good salads. The quantity of 
food which people eat in Germany astonishes Americans, 
who find it easy, however, to conform to German habits ! 
This arrangement of meals affords much leisure for work 
and walking. Only dinner and supper consume any great 
amount of time, and after these all rise from the table and 
say " Gesegnete Mahlzeit." 

A great deal of sport has been made of the German 
single bed, where the sleeper lies down and is covered with 
a mountain of enclosed feathers. The covering, however, 
is not heavy, is not easily displaced, except by over-nervous 
children, and one is sure to be kept warm during the whole 
night. The stoves here are generally architectural struc- 
tures six or more feet high ; but ours, of modern pattern, are 
not three feet in height. These stoves are usually built 
into the house, and are rarely moved. Service is very 
cheap. The maids receive almost nothing, except a hving, 
and welcome fees which would be laughed at by the rulers 
of our American kitchens. Housemaids are continually 
sent on errands, and we see them on the street, hatless and 
sleeveless, with their healthy and good-natured faces, utterly 
free from that pride which will not permit your servant to 
walk to the letter-box unless she is quite as well dressed as 
most of the ladies of Germany. Our maid, Theresa, fifteen 
years of age, builds our fires, washes our floors, brushes our 
clothes, cleans our shoes, and runs on our errands. 

It is hard for me to get used to the sight of the peasant 
women, carrying big, heavy baskets strapped on their backs 
as they trudge past my window every morning on their way 
to market. The loads of care which many American 
women bear may be far more crushing, but still I have the 
feeling that womanhood, wifehood, and motherhood are not 
properly respected, are not clothed with appropriate dignity, 
wherever women are accustomed to do the work of horses 
and oxen. A few mornings ago, four members of this 
household made an early start for a two weeks' trip to the 



FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF GERMAN LIFE. 39 

Hartz mountains. An order, left the night before, for ex- 
press service in carrying the trunk and hand-baggage to the 
station, brought promptly to the house, at seven o'clock, a 
stalwart woman with her hand-cart. In Germany the wife 
walking by her husband carries the bundles. 

Of course the green and feathered hats which we see on 
the street, the colored caps of the Corps students, and the 
constant presence of soldiers are to us quite noticeable, as 
is also the absence of horses. Gottingen is not quite like 
Venice in this last respect, for a few of these noble quad- 
rupeds are occasionally visible. Nobody about us seems to 
be in a hurry. Many, besides the large number of idle 
students, seem to give their lives to " bummling," as aim- 
less walking the streets is called. Unlike those of an 
American city, these streets are clean. No one seems dis- 
posed to litter them with papers and rubbish. So far as I 
can discover, Germans have no disposition to throw any- 
thing away. Small economies are everywhere practised. 
An American girl who tried in vain to get rid of an old 
mucilage-bottle only to find it returned to her study-table 
daily by her careful maid, was finally obliged to carry it off 
and drop it into the river ! All labor is cheap, including 
that of university professors. Nobody here expects ever to 
be rich, so that life appears to have more moderation and 
contentment than with us. My excellent landlady, a woman 
of wide experience and high intelligence, who has had her 
residence in Jena and in Frankfort, reports that in Frank- 
fort it was not pleasant to live, because riches there count 
for so much, and so many are restlessly eager to be rich. 

Americans are rather popular in Gottingen, but the 
people here associate with our country a great amount of 
freakishness, an excess of individuality. Here custom rules.. 
There is great outward politeness. Deference to ofiiciali 
rank is universal. When I wear my silk hat through the 
streets, I am taken for a celebrity, and bowed to by stran- 
gers ! When the teacher enters the school-room, all the 
pupils rise. When the Director enters, the teachers also 



40 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

rise. Americans are regarded, to a certain degree, as oddi- 
ties. An American girl on a wheel provokes critical com- 
ment. For several days this city has had a visit, almost a 
visitation, from a show calling itself " An Aggregation of 
American Phenomena." The tattooed man and woman, the 
heaviest married couple in the world, the smallest of living 
men, the man with the lion's jaw and ostrich's stomach, 
the Albino with a shock of white hair as big as an umbrella, 
looking like an elephantine chrysanthemum, the man who 
swallows petroleum, sets his breath on fire and sends a 
flame twenty feet into the air, — these " American phenom- 
ena " have been drawing crowds to the Gottingen Colos- 
seum. The other day I had inquired of a stranger on the 
street the way to a certain caf6, and he poured forth upon 
me such a volume of German that I endeavored to stop 
him by saying that I could n't understand the language 
well, being an American ; whereupon he exclaimed with 
cheerful interest, " Oh, you are from the Colosseum 
troupe ! " The maid calls me " Herr Doctor," but now 
some of my friends, to whom I have told this incident, 
speak of me as "Herr Director," from the Colosseum! 
It is hardly to be wondered at that Americans are some- 
times considered oddities. Herr Harry, our landlady's 
son, who within a year will take his degree as a jurist 
at the university, informs me that the only American 
books which he has read are " Helen's Babies " and 
" Peck's Bad Boy " ! 

The study of national peculiarities is marvellously inter- 
esting. The concert garden, as every one knows, is a Ger- 
man institution, found in all cities and larger towns, and 
Gottingen has two orchestras and two concert gardens 
open nearly every evening through the long summer. A 
family season ticket for three persons is six marks, or about 
one dollar and a half, so that the rates bring within 
reach of most of the people the dehghts which are so dear 
to the German heart. With the American colony, usually we 
go to the Stadt Park, a historic place in Gottingen ; for 



FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF GERMAN LIFE. 41 

beneath its magnificent chestnut-trees have been gathered in 
the last century all the celebrities, poets, historians, jurists, 
divines, statesmen, scientists, soldiers, and world-famous 
scholars whose names are associated with this university 
town. The various student societies have long tables to 
themselves, and show us many a proud scarred face that 
has been hacked in some duel of honor. The American 
men, with a few English additions, have their own table. 
The national beverage of Germany is everywhere in evi- 
dence ; but one, if he prefers, may drink his coffee, tea, 
seltzer water, or lemonade. The music, with considerable 
interruptions, is continued for three or four hours, and is 
really enjoyed by a people who live somewhat in the spirit 
of Motley's well-known saying : " Give me the luxuries of 
life and I will do without the necessities." 

A display of fireworks now and then doubles the throng 
at the Stadt Park; but the characteristic features are the 
music, 'ihe social greetings, the quiet lingering for hours at 
the table, the outdoor freshness, the picturesqueness of the 
student life and the procession of the people as they walk 
to and fro, conversing and looking at one another in a 
good-humored but rather persistent way. The German 
soldiers, and especially the German officers, with their 
brilliant uniforms, are always present in considerable num- 
hers. The officers swell around and stare at the pretty 
giris as if they were curiosities, much in the spirit and 
manner in which many American travellers treat everything 
in Europe. 

Mr. Henry B. Fuller, in one of his novels, has made his 
travelled hero express astonishment that a metropolis like 
Chicago should be without a promenade, without any social 
organization for out-of-door hfe, and without a real caf^, 
which he calls the crowning gem in the coronet of civiliza- 
tion. Germany makes abundant provision for these things, 
and their general influence is wholesome. Here families 
walk off together Sunday afternoons and at other times ; but 
the chief strolhng-place of Gottingen is the Weender- 



42 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

strasse, where on Sunday, after the morning church ser- 
vices, the students, soldiers, and citizens walk up and down 
to greet each other and to listen to the orchestra which 
plays in front of the Rathhaus. This building was erected 
in the fourteenth century, not only as a place for munici- 
pal legislation, but as a fortress of defence against the 
city's enemies. 

The almost continual appearance of soldiers in small 
groups or marching by hundreds across the street ; the 
great companies of school-children, boys and girls, each 
with a knapsack full of books on the back ; the peasant- 
women with gayly embroidered shawls over their heads and 
their short full skirts and aprons,; the tall slim poles sur- 
mounting the houses in process of building, one of them 
inevitably topped with a green bush or wreath, a memorial 
of some usage older than German history, and a prophecy 
of the feast the workmen are to have when the building is 
completed, — these are all elements of a picturesqueness of 
life one misses in America. 

I feel inclined at this point to note some of the peculiar- 
ities which an American remarks as he watches such a pro- 
cession of people, strolling idly up and down the street of 
a German city. One of the first things he notices is the 
prevalence of certain forms of polite behavior. In no other 
country in the world have I seen the hats and caps doffed 
so frequently and with such a flourish. The German stu- 
dent, when he meets a friend or parts from a friend, re- 
moves his cap and bows, and repeats the ceremony with 
the same friend, it may be, forty times a day. The Ger- 
mans are a military people, pre-eminently so ; but they 
rarely keep step when walking together, and have no fixed 
rule about turning either to the right or to the left when 
they meet. You will probably see more scarred faces in 
a half-hour's stroll on the Weender- strasse than in five 
years of perambulation on Pennsylvania Avenue, Broadway, 
or Michigan Avenue. Another feature of German, and 
indeed of continental, life observable here and very inter- 



FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF GERMAN LIFE. 43 

esting to children is the general use of dogs as beasts of 
traction. I have seen a peasant seated on a small wagon 
in which was confined a large pig, drawn triumphantly into 
town by one huge dog, on whom the driver freely used his 
whip. My pity was divided between the spirit of the man, 
the fate of the pig, and the labors of the dog ! 

I may as well record here as elsewhere certain other 
peculiarities which add interest to life in Germany. The 
German student has the habit of staring at women, and es- 
pecially at American women, with a freedom and continu- 
ousness which in England and America would be offensive. 
The man here is a superior being, living in a world quite 
above that of woman, and he takes upon himself the privi- 
lege of bowing first when he meets a lady of his acquaint- 
ance. This is an act of courtesy which is generally 
appreciated, but the American ladies in Germany are some- 
what surprised at first when the letter-carriers, truckmen, 
and clerks in stores and others give them bows of friendly 
recognition. Last year only one lady in Gottingen rode 
the bicycle. She was an American girl, and made a great 
sensation. Now nearly a dozen American and some Ger- 
man ladies ride through the streets. But when the Ameri- 
can ladies are seen on their wheels in the little villages 
about Gottingen, the children, geese, and dogs usually come 
toward them with a variety of noisy exclamations. 

Every traveller in Germany, and certainly every Ameri- 
can resident here, notes the friendly curiosity of the people 
in regard to his private affairs. The government and the 
university learn and record your name, residence, business, 
profession, birthplace, birthday, purposes, national alle- 
giance, standing of your parents, or, if they are not living, 
of other relatives. American girls are sometimes invited 
and almost compelled to exhibit their clothing to callers 
whom they have never seen before, and to answer questions 
in regard to the quality and expensiveness of every article 
in their wardrobe. It may not be agreeable always to be 
asked how much one's shoes cost, or if one's diamond ring 



44 



A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 



is real, and it is certainly embarrassing for American girls 
to be introduced by a German lady to American students 
and to have her inquire of the men if they do not think 
the girls' dresses are marvellously pretty ! But one becomes 
accustomed to these amusing peculiarities, understanding 
perfectly that no rudeness prompted the inquiries. 

The Sunday after our arrival in Gottingen, I attended 
service in the Reformirte Kirche, Pastor Heilman's. I 
have been there every Sunday morning since the first visit, 
except on Palm Sunday, which was here Confirmation Sun- 
day, when I attended the Albani Kirche, Lutheran, and 
saw the confirmation of over a hundred boys and girls. 
The Reformed Church, in the Province of Hanover, is not 
a part of the National Church Establishment. In Prussia 
proper, that is, in Old Prussia as it existed before 1866, 
the union of the Lutheran and Reformed or Calvinistic 
churches was consummated, as is well known, in the early 
part of the century. The Reformirte Kirche in Gottingen 
was built in 1 75 1. It is a very plain, box-like little struc- 
ture, usually full, capable of seating perhaps four hundred 
persons, in which the seats, facing in three directions, rise 
in a sort of rude amphitheatre. There is an organ above 
the door of entrance, opposite to which is the pulpit, the 
most conspicuous feature of the church. Two large pillars 
support a gilded canopy, at the summit of which stands a 
book on which is the word " Evangelium." The pulpit 
proper is about ten feet from the floor. Right under 
the pulpit is the communion table, on the covering of 
which, in large gilt letters, are, in German, the words : 
" Jesus Christ the same yesterday, to-day, and forever." 
Everything about the church is extremely plain. There 
are no carpets on the floor and no cushions on the seats. 
The contrast between this church and the luxurious and 
splendid interiors of many churches which might be men- 
tioned in America, is very striking and suggestive. The 
bareness, simplicity, and almost poverty of Protestant church 
life in Europe in the particulars just mentioned are still in 



FIRST UIFRESSIONS OF GERMAN LIFE. 45 

harmony with the greater simpUcity and economy of the 
ways of European peoples. 

As we enter the door, the hymn-book is put into our 
hands, or, rather, was given us the first Sunday ; now we 
carry our own book, and greatly enjoy reading at home the 
deeply spiritual German hymns, most of them old, very 
many reaching back to the first of the eighteenth or the 
middle part of the seventeenth century. Of course some 
of them have a still earlier date. Was not Martin Luther 
a great hymn-writer, and did he not teach the German 
people sacred song as well as sacred Scripture? The 
hymns, both in the Reformed and Lutheran Kirchengesang- 
biicher, are printed like prose, and often they are very 
long. One hymn, by Paul Gerhardt, has fifteen verses ! 
The German hymn-tunes are sung very slowly, and most 
of our church singing in America would appear to church- 
goers here almost secular and irreverent. The hymns are 
never announced and never read. The numbers are 
posted, as they ought to be always in American churches. 
A few singers gathered around the organ begin the ser- 
vice with a hymn in which all the congregation join. 
After a time the pastor enters, and stands with clasped 
hands before the communion table. His appearance is the 
signal that the verse which the congregation is singing is to 
be the last verse sung. During the singing the congrega- 
tion remain seated. During Pastor Heilman's prayer, which 
he offers usually with his eyes looking upward, they stand. 
He begins his part of the worship with a Scriptural benedic- 
tion. One curious feature of the service is that he never 
sits in the presence of the congregation. After the prayer 
another hymn, usually a long one, is slowly sung, and when 
the pastor wishes the hymn to close he appears in the 
pulpit above, with the Bible in his hand. He then reads 
the Scriptures, and after a brief prayer preaches his sermon 
without notes, closing, usually, in thirty minutes. During 
the hymn which follows the sermon he comes to his original 
place before the communion table, and offers the prayer in 



46 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

which he makes suppUcation for the Fatherland and the 
Kaiser. He always closes with the benediction : " The 
Lord bless you and keep you, the Lord make his face to 
shine upon you and be gracious unto you, the Lord lift up 
his countenance upon you and give you peace." There is 
a long, reverent pause at the close of the benediction before 
the congregation quietly, and without any remarks, leave the 
church. At the door are boxes to receive contributions, 
either for the poor or for the support of the church. Many 
in the congregation stand a few moments before taking their 
seats, in order to bow the head and offer a silent prayer. The 
demeanor of all is reverent. Very few, except Americans, 
look at the preacher while he is giving his message. An 
American school-girl here was instructed by her teacher not 
to look at the .minister ! She claimed, however, the Uberty 
of doing that to which she had been accustomed. How can 
a man preach if his congregation do not look at him? I 
once delivered a lecture before a Young Ladies' Seminary 
in Andover, Massachusetts. The young women were in- 
structed to bring their sewing with them. I felt as if they 
were paying no attention to what I said, and I would rather 
declaim to a mob than repeat the doleful experience which 
I then had. 

There may be some peculiarities of the Reformed Church 
service here which I have omitted. Indeed, it is a pleasant 
novelty to see soldiers in uniform scattered through the 
congregation and joining in the hymns which their fathers 
sang on the perilous edge of battle, through the long, awful 
agony of the Thirty Years' War. But whatever I omit, I 
must at least endeavor to tell my American readers of the 
profound and sometimes overwhelming impressions which I 
have received in these German services. At ten o'clock on 
March eighth, I found myself for the first time in my life 
seated in a German church of the Reformed Faith. There 
is always an impressiveness in the first time. Who can for- 
get his first day in London, his first visit to St. Peter's, his 
first sight of the Pyramids,, his first glance at the Pacific 



FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF GERMAN LIFE. 47 

Ocean, his first view of the Jungfrau? Here I am in the 
Fatherland, the ancestral home of my race, not in a Lu- 
theran church, but in a church which the Protestant EHjah 
made possible, a church holding to the Calvinistic faith. And 
what are these sweet and mighty words which all the people 
are singing and in which I cannot help joining? '' Jesus Life 
of my life, Jesus Death of my death," "Whatever God does 
is well done," '^ Praise the Lord, O my Soul, I will praise 
Him until death," "With peace and joy in God's will I go 
hence," " Christ Thou Lamb of God, Who takest away the 
sin of the world, have pity on me." How much more 
sonorous and impressive the German words seem to one 
who hears them sung for the first time ! Why is it that the 
tears start to my eyes, why does my bosom swell and my 
voice choke ? I think that it is partly the strange power of 
imaginative association, the linking of all these mighty gospel 
truths with the solemn and glorious past out of which they 
have sprung, and partly the experiencing in a new form the 
sweet and immortal consolations of the word of the Lord. I 
found myself in a momentary ecstasy, in which my whole 
past rose up before me. I realized afresh what Christ was, 
and is, and is to be. I looked at the text inscribed in gold 
on the communion table, and said in my heart, " There is my 
deepest creed, my best message to mankind, and the sub- 
stance of that gospel which is the hope of the world. The 
Eternal Christ is my Lord. Faithful souls in this company 
of strangers trust in Him and will never leave Him. Faith- 
ful lips here proclaim Him, in this land of learning and art 
and military glory. He lives and rules, and shall yet put 
under His feet all the powers of evil." 

I do not remember that ever, except perhaps at some of the 
vast conventions of our Christian Endeavor societies, when 
the billows of Christian song almost beat against the skies, 
have I been so taken hold of by the power of Christian 
hymns. The sermon which followed was on the sufferings 
of Christ as a fulfilment of prophecy ; a part of His Ufe's 
plan, a part of God's plan for every high and noble life. 



48 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

The sermons of Pastor Heilman on the following Sundays 
dealt largely with the closing scenes in Christ's life. He 
led us in his practical, earnest, evangelic preaching — re- 
minding one of Dr. Cuyler — over the way of the cross ; 
and when, on the morning of Easter Sunday, he began his 
part of the service, it seemed as if all the triumphant feel- 
ings, not only of his heart, but of the Christian world, found 
a trumpet-toned and majestic utterance, as with full voice 
and eyes raised heavenward he cried out : " Now is Jesus 
Christ risen from the dead. Hallelujah ! " Let this be the 
Easter greeting which I send to my friends and readers 
across the Atlantic. I find that I have many things to 
report in regard to my impressions of Christian life in 
Germany. Some of these are almost depressing and even 
disheartening,- but — Jesus Christ is risen from the dead. 
He is the Lord of Life, the ever-living Redeemer, whose 
heart of love has not changed, to whom all power has been 
given in heaven and earth, to whom belong the eternal 
years, who surveys the lapses of human minds from the 
truth and the departures of human life from the way, 
whether in Germany or in America, with no feeling that His 
gracious purposes are to be ultimately thwarted. The 
land of Luther is yet to be more completely His possession. 
He shall yet wear, as Chunder Sen prophesied, the many- 
jewelled diadem of India. America shall be his, and the 
kingdoms of the world shall become the kingdom of the 
Christ. Hallelujah ! 



CHAPTER IV. 

PARIS. 

TN passing from a quiet university town in Germany to 
the brilliant and exciting life of Paris, one experiences 
a change as startling as can well be imagined. On my 
way to this great capital, I stopped at Cologne to see 
for the fifth time the cathedral which is the greatest 
wonder of the Gothic world ; and the marvel and mys- 
tery and majesty of this anthem in stone do not diminish. 
Of all the features of the European landscape it is to me 
the most impressive. The president of the Columbian 
Exposition, looking from his office in the Administration 
Building in the winter before the Fair, upon the " long, 
imperial colonnades " of the Manufactures Building, with 
its snow-covered roof, felt at times that he was looking at 
a range of Alpine mountains. This cathedral sometimes 
appears to me as solid and as splendid as the Jungfrau. 
As I wandered at sunset through its forest of columned 
aisles, it seemed to dwarf the spaciousness of the outer 
world. The floods of golden and rosy light which streamed 
into the temple added a new glory to the work of man — 
his grandest work in northern Europe — in praise of his 
Creator. 

To the sympathetic appreciation of the peculiar meanings 
of Gothic architecture, the reading of Lowell's "Cathe- 
dral " is a substantial help, as I have often found. No 
other poem tells so completely the history of the soul that 
expressed in this glorious and enduring way its conceptions 
of life and of worship. " This that never ends," " climb- 
ing still and teaching fancy still to climb," "graceful, gro- 

4 



50 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

tesque," mingling fancy with history ; " inaagination's very 
self in stone," — what a contrast it presents to the archi- 
tecture of the Greeks and to the Greco-Roman ecclesi- 
astical architecture of Italy ! Any heart that loves the 
Christian Church must feel within this great cathedral 
what a legacy, common to all Christians, has been handed 
down to us. Most of these prophets, saints, scholars, 
martyrs, kings, and preachers, whose forms in stone or 
radiant glass glorify this Gothic temple, are the spiritual 
ancestors of us all. 

But this cathedral is the sublime monument of the uni- 
fication of Germany. It represents in itself the long 
checkered history of the nation from the time when 
Cologne was a Roman colony, down to the completion of 
the mighty structure in 1882 — for the foundations of the 
cathedral rest on the fortifications of the old Roman town. 
Most of my readers know of the sad delays in the building 
of this temple ; its desecration by the French soldiers ; the 
apparent hopelessness of bringing it to completion ; the 
prayer of Wordsworth that angels would lend their help, 
and the final triumph of the German spirit in this cen- 
tury. The union of the Fatherland into one nation and 
the lifting heavenward of these twin spires within which 
the captured cannon of France ring out the peals of 
patriotism and piety in the colossal bell, — these went on 
together. It was six hundred and thirty-two years after 
the first stone was laid when the cathedral was finished, and 
finished, too, in accordance with the plans of the architect 
who designed this all but greatest miracle in stone. 

The building may teach men and nations a lesson in 
patience, while now, in its finished majesty, it is the grand- 
est of all the symbols of the religion of aspiration, of the 
faith which, standing on the earth, looks ever to the spiritual 
heavens. After saying farewell to the dear old cathedral, 
I passed through Aix-la-Chapelle, Liege, and Namur in 
order to reach Paris. The Belgian and French railways 
are, in my judgment, not up to the standard of the Ger- 



PARIS. 5 1 

man. But the journey to Paris was not uncomfortable, 
and a warm welcome awaited me from my host, Professor 
G. Bonet-Maury, who will be remembered as a delegate 
from France to the Congress of Religions. He is now one 
of the Protestant faculty in the university. He writes for 
the " Revue des Deux Mondes " and other leading periodi- 
cals, and is highly esteemed by many friends in the literary 
and religious circles of Paris, 

The Paris of to-day is more brilliant and beautiful than 
was the Paris with which I was familiar three years after 
the close of the Franco-Prussian War. At present the city 
is in the throes of excitement, not so much over the change 
of ministry as over the prospect of the municipal elections 
in May. The candidates have painted the town red, blue, 
and yellow. With more than the eagerness and enterprise 
of our city fathers, who are seeking for re-election, they have 
placed their names everywhere. It is simply within bounds 
to say that nothing that could be reached with the paste- 
pot of the poster has been spared. Across the way from 
where I am now writing, the foundations of the Grand Opera 
House on every side are covered with these election notices. 
I have seen this disfiguration on most of the national prop- 
erty, on the desolate statue of Strasburg in the Place 
de la Concorde, on the monuments to Voltaire and Shake- 
speare, on the fountains, on the Louvre. I sometimes 
think that no people are so willing to disfigure their cities 
as are Americans, but the French outdo even the London 
omnibuses. 

But Paris cannot be spoiled, especially Paris in the 
springtime, even by candidates. The air has been delight- 
fully fresh, and the sunshine has been almost continuous 
since my arrival. The suburbs are a wilderness of foliage 
and blossoms. I have spent a day with friends in the 
forest of St. Germain. We looked on the vast and lovely 
panorama presented from the grand terrace ; we watched 
the bicyclists speeding happily over the path so often 
trodden by royal feet ; we gathered violets by the handful ; 



52 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

we visited the tomb of James II. of England and shed no 
tears over the exile, the last king of the ill-fated Stuarts ; 
we returned by the tramway along the banks of the Seine, 
one of the most charming drives in the world ; we caught 
a glimpse of Malmaison, the home of the Empress Jose- 
phine, where she was wont to receive the news of Napo- 
leon's victories ; we saw many square miles of fresh spring 
foliage and tens of thousands of trees which were masses of 
pink and white blossoms, and we watched great multitudes 
of the French people taking their outdoor pleasures with a 
simple directness of enjoyment which we in America might 
well imitate. 

The Parisians themselves, though justly proud of their 
city, are very apt, if they are men and women of high 
and earnest purposes, to speak rather despairingly of the 
moral and religious condition of the French metropolis. 
It is this pessimism which dampens the ardor of those who 
would like to see the Exposition of 1900, for which the 
outward preparations are beginning to be apparent, made 
the occasion of an international religious festival. A 
stranger's impressions, whether in Europe or America, have 
only a relative value, and yet they may give an approxima- 
tion of the truth. I had great pleasure in meeting several 
times the Vicomte de Meaux, one of the foremost of the 
progressive Catholics of France. In his book on the 
" Catholic Church in America " he informs us that what 
most impressed him in New York, Boston, and Chicago 
was the secular quiet on Sunday, and the movement of 
great crowds, from all classes of the population, toward the 
churches. And certainly Paris on the first day of the 
week makes no such impression on the American visitor. 
Seemingly the whole city is given over to out-door recrea- 
tion. Yet I am happy to report that Sunday work has 
been greatly diminished since I first saw the city in 1873, 
The largest shops are usually closed. Both France and 
Germany are beginning to see the economical and hygienic 
values of the weekly rest-day. 



PARIS. 53 

The vast increase of English, American, and Scotch signs 
over the shops in the neighborhood of the Grand Opera 
House, indicates that Paris is becoming more and more 
cosmopolitan. The great encroachments of the EngUsh 
language are as apparent on the banks of the Seine as on 
the banks of the Nile and the Ganges. The French, be- 
yond all other peoples, have learned how to entertain ; and 
perhaps twenty or thirty thousand, from the richer classes, 
from all civilized and from some half-civilized peoples are 
always found in the hotels and pensions of the city. A 
golden stream from North and South America, from Great 
Britain, Holland, Russia, is pouring daily into the coffers 
of France. Hence Paris is ever becoming a more expen- 
sive city to live in. It is wonderful how easily the French 
have recovered from their misfortunes. In spite of the 
billions of francs received by Germany, France is now 
richer than her great rival across the Rhine. And how 
much better prepared she is for the great coming conflict 
which nobody wishes and everybody expects ! The Re- 
public has educated the present generation. The school- 
system of France, though unfortunately lacking in that 
moral discipline which an ideal school-system should not 
exclude, is in many respects equal to the best. The French 
army of to-day is a vast improvement, both in equipment 
and in administration, over the regiments of Bazaine and 
MacMahon. Some, at least, of the frightful lessons of 1870 
have been well learned. And Germany perfectly under- 
stands that the favorable conditions under which the war 
of German unification was carried to its dazzling successes 
cannot now be repeated. The next struggle of these old- 
time national rivals will be the most appalling and prob- 
ably the most wasteful and useless in history. Wars 
scarcely ever settle anything. The Europe of to-day is 
tightly bound by the chains of the past, and sensible men 
are not able to do that which nearly all acknowledge would 
be for the general advantage. With Christian Europe an 
armed camp of enemies awaiting the accident which shall 



54 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

set millions of men to taking each other's lives, and causing 
a rain of blood and tears over the fairest regions of the 
Old World, how can we expect any very swift conquests of 
the gospel in Asia? One evening at the house of an ex- 
Cabinet Minister of France, I ventured to ask him if any- 
body in France wished for war at present. He said 
" No." " Do you wish it next year ? " " No." " The year 
after that?" "No." "Do you think that it ever would 
be a good thing? " " No." " Why, then, will it come? " 
His shoulders went higher and higher — implying that 
nations were the slaves of circumstances and must take 
what the fates send. The aggressive personality of the 
German Emperor seemed to him an important factor in 
the problem. Some unforeseen incident will happen, and 
then the vast butchery will begin, compared with which the 
butcheries of Charlemagne and Napoleon were the quarrels 
of school-children. 

Paris' touches and thrills every sensitive mind that begins 
to think backward. Crossing the Pont de la Concorde, one 
remembers that its foundations are built from the stones of 
the accursed Bastile. What awful memories these sunken 
blocks might send up through the rushing blue waters of 
the Seine, to sadden the hearts of the busy and happy 
throngs who pour across this bridge, day and night ! From 
yonder door in one corner of the garden of the Tuileries, 
King Louis Philippe came forth when the Revolution of 
1848 rendered his kingship an impossibility. Out of that 
same door, on the downfall of the Empire of Napoleon 
in., the Empress Eugenie came in the company of a 
chivalrous American physician. 

As I left the Oratoire, where I attended the anniversary 
meeting of the McAll Mission and heard of the rapid prog- 
ress which this popular evangelistic movement is still mak- 
ing, I stood for a few minutes by the wonderfully beautiful 
statue of the great admiral who was killed on the awful 
night of St. Bartholomew. Thinking of " good Coligni's 
hoary hair all dabbled in his blood," I looked up above the 



PARIS. 55 

walls of the palace of the Louvre to the full moon shining 
in splendor upon the tower of the church St. Germain- 
L'Auxerrois, from which the signal for the St. Bartholomew 
massacre was given, three hundred and twenty- four years ago. 
I had been speaking with a score of French Protestant pas- 
tors j I had been hearing the gospel sung by great crowds 
of the working people, who are receiving now the simple 
message of divine love, and I could but say that the world is 
growing better ; the days of intolerance are passing — and 
then I thought of Armenia, and said there is daybreak, but 
not everywhere. The clouds that overhang some parts of 
our planet are as dark as those which brooded over France 
in the horrible days of Charles IX, 

Among my most interesting experiences of late has been 
a visit to the new Sorbonne, the magnificent hall of the 
University of France, which certainly deserves to be consid- 
ered, at least in some respects, the foremost university in 
the world. Delegates from the universities of Scotland have 
been receiving delightful attentions here in Paris from the 
professors in the Sorbonne. A Franco-Scottish society, de- 
signed to bring the university life of the two countries into 
closer touch, has been organized, and I had the privilege 
of attending some of the sessions of their first meeting. 
The hall and stairway leading up to the Salle de Carnot, 
where these university conferences were held, have been 
decorated with frescos by leading artists of to-day, repre- 
senting memorable scenes in the history of French science 
and discovery. Here you may see the figures of St. Louis 
and Abelard, Palissy and Buffon, Pascal and Cuvier, Arago 
and Guizot, and scores besides. We in America are rather 
partial to France, but most of us are not fully aware of the 
vast contributions which the French people have made to 
many branches of science. 

In the great new hall of the Sorbonne is perhaps the 
most famous of all the frescos of Puvis de Chavannes. I 
had the pleasure of seeing last week the decorations which 
this most eminent of living artists is about sending to the 



56 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

new Public Library in Boston. But, entering the Hall of 
Carnot, which is a magnificent room intended for the meet- 
ing of the faculties of the University and for social recep- 
tions, I found myself seated on the left of the rector of 
the University, M. Gr^ard, at a table which formed a huge 
ellipse. The subject for discussion was the place of Greek 
in modern education. About seventy representatives of 
Scotch and French learning sat about the table, and on 
two raised platforms facing each other were Professor Briel, 
president of the day, and the reader for the day, the dis- 
tinguished Hellenist, Professor Croiset. His French lecture 
in defence of Greek studies against the modern objections 
to them was lucid and extremely able, meeting the general 
approval both of the French and Scotch professors. It was 
interesting and humiliating to note how well some of the 
Scotch teachers made their addresses in French. Lord 
Reay, of Edinburgh, deserves little credit for his exception- 
ally good French, however, since he learned it in childhood 
in the home of his father, who was Prime Minister of Hol- 
land. Inheriting afterward a Scotch peerage, he came 
to reside in Scotland, and has taken great interest in the 
Franco-Scottish society. He was much pleased to learn of 
my present mission to Paris and my future mission to India. 
Not only is he a liberal in politics, but he is not narrow in 
his theology. 

The visit of the Scotch professors was terminated by a 
banquet in the Sorbonne, to which I was kindly invited. 
I can think of nothing as an achievement of art in one 
special line that is more delightful than a Parisian banquet. 
Happily ladies were present, and the peculiar charm of 
French courtesy was signally illustrated. Nearly a hundred 
persons sat down to a dinner such as Paris only can give. 
I doubt if any other people than the French could have 
draped the English, Scotch, and French flags as gracefully 
as they were hung on this occasion. A band of the Sixth 
Regiment of Infantry gave us the music, pleasantly subdued 
by distance ; and Jules Simon, the veteran French states- 



PARIS. 57 

man, was the courteous presiding officer in the speeches 
which followed the banquet. Most graciously he proposed 
the health of the Queen, and of course everybody rose as 
the French band struck up the national air of England. 
Afterward Jules Simon pronounced a beautiful address in 
praise of noble womanhood, speaking with great feeling 
and felicity of the fidelity, courage, and heroism of French 
women, from the days of Jeanne d'Arc down to the recent 
revolutions in France. Lord Reay toasted the President of 
the French Republic, and we all rose to the stirring strains 
of "La Marseillaise." The French may well vie with the 
Germans in the martial and thrilling qualities of their na- 
tional hymn. Lord Reay then gave a pleasant historical 
resume of the many intimate relations between Scotland 
and France. There is a Scotch college in Paris still stand- 
ing, which most of the delegates visited. Wallace and 
Bruce could speak French. The ceremonies used in the 
Scotch uiiiversities are French. At the close of the ban- 
quet each guest was given an engraving of Jeanne d'Arc 
surrounded by her Scotch guards. 

After Lord Reay had spoken, La Sorbonne was toasted, 
and the speaker was the accomplished, adroit, and attrac- 
tive Bourgeois, who at that time was the Prime Minister of 
France, the President of the Cabinet. His downfall within 
a few days was not expected even by himself. Why should 
there not be established between our American universities 
and La Sorbonne such interesting intimacies as those I 
have been describing? I am assured that the University of 
France would welcome delegates from our American insti- 
tutions, and it might be discovered that there were links 
between the two republics as vital as those which bind the 
Scottish and French peoples. 

The friends of religious toleration in Paris honored me 
with a reception, at which the hosts were Colonel and 
Madame Calmard and their three daughters, — all accom- 
plished and charming people. The Calmards belong to 
the family of Pascal, and are earnest Catholics. They are 



58 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

quite familiar with American literature. Nothing has sur- 
prised me more than the acquaintance which I have dis- 
covered among French ladies with much that is best in 
American letters. Emerson, Longfellow, Higginson, Mrs. 
Stowe, George W. Cable, and Edgar Allan Poe are very 
familiar names. I was requested to tell some American 
stories. Reluctantly I began. The first venerable chestnut 
exploded like dynamite in this new circle ! I continued 
more cheerfully. I drew on my memory and told tales of 
Peekskill. I related that a famous American was showing 
another compatriot the glory of the Cologne Cathedral. 
His friend said to him, " It is large, but it took them six 
hundred years to build it. Chicago would have built it in 
six months." I told of the American who would not ad- 
mire St. Peter's at Rome : " They can't fill it more than 
once in a generation; Niagara Falls would fill it in five 
minutes." The next morning my host was relating to his 
wife the successes of my anecdotage. He retold to her 
the stories, and gave me the only fun I had in them when he 
said seriously : " These American stories are not mythical, 
they are genuine and authentic, for they were told by 
the leading lawyer of New York City, Mr. Chauncey M. 
Depew ! " 

Among those who were present at the reception were 
Baron de Schickler, perhaps the leading Protestant in Paris, 
a man of great wealth and benevolence, whose home over- 
looking the Place Vendome is one of the most attractive 
I have seen ; Reinach, the distinguished Jewish scholar, 
whose Hellenic attainments are such that he is likely to 
become a member of the French Academy ; the Vicomte 
de Meaux, the son-in-law of the famous Montalembert, a 
very charming and liberal-minded Catholic gentleman, who 
has visited our country and is a friend of Cardinal Gibbons, 
of Archbishop Ireland, and of Bishop Keane ; Zadoc Kahn, 
the chief rabbi of France, who is deeply interested in the 
work of religious pacification ; Professor Albert Reville, the 
editor of the " Review of the History of Religions/' and 



PARIS. 59 

perhaps the foremost scholar in France in the department 
of Comparative ReHgion ; the Reverend Mr. Roberti, one 
of the preachers at the Oratoire, whose sermon on Christ's 
treatment of doubt, to wliich I recently listened, gave me 
the impression that he has all the best qualities of French 
eloquence ; and Frederick Passy, the eminent philanthropist, 
devoted to international arbitration and other good causes. 



CHAPTER V. 

PARIS {continued) . 

TDARIS the beautiful — and now in the May flowers and 
sunshine, the supremely beautiful — is to me Paris the 
hospitable and entertaining. 

Walking one morning from my home on the Rue de Lille 
by the gilded gates of the Palace of the Legion of Honor 
and by the splendid ruins of the Cours des Comtes, now 
inhabited by ten thousand birds, I came to the Solferino 
Bridge, by which I crossed over the river into the garden of 
the Tuileries. A short walk through the Place du Car- 
rousel brought me to the Louvre, where in the halls of 
Renaissance sculptures I sought and soon found the new 
treasure which has recently been added to these almost end- 
less collections. It is a Madonna with the child, in wood, 
painted and gilded, and is deemed the most important 
acquisition made by the department since the celebrated 
bas-relief of the Virgin, painted and gilded terra-cotta, 
brought from Florence in 1881. These two monuments 
face each other. The new sculpture belongs to the period 
which preceded and prepared for the coming of Michael 
Angelo, — probably to the first half of the fifteenth century. 
It is large, noble, dignified, but interested me far less than 
did the " Fettered Slaves " standing near by, — the famous 
work of Michael Angelo himself, and designed as a part of 
the great monument to Pope Julius 11. 

After breakfast, at half-past eleven o'clock, my host. Pro- 
fessor Bonet-Maury, escorted me to the Institute of France, 
on the Quai Voltaire, where I had the pleasure of being 
presented to the Academy of Moral and Political Sciences. 



PARIS. 6 1 

In the absence of Jules Simon I was introduced by the dis- 
tinguished philosopher and archaeologist, M. Ravaisson- 
Mollieu, now in his eighty-third year. About thirty of the 
forty members sat around the elliptical table, which repre- 
sents the highest honor to which men of science and litera- 
ture in France can aspire. The Academy which I saw is 
one of five that together make up the famous Institute of 
France, concerning which Professor Max Miiller said at its 
centenary last October : " Other nations have tried, but 
tried in vain, to equal it." The total membership of these 
five academies is two hundred and twenty-six. 

What ordinarily impressed me in the members of the 
Institute whom I met was their simple cordiality of manner 
and their venerable years. The laurels in France encircle 
gray heads. Among the members of the Academy to whom 
I was presented let me mention, besides the President and 
Jules Simon, Charles Waddington j Maurice Block, the econ- 
omist ; E. Levasseur, also an economist and delegate from 
the French government to the Chicago Congresses ; Anatole 
Leroy-Beaulieu, the historian, whose great work on Russia 
has recently been translated into English ; Frederick Passy, 
the venerable President of the International Peace League, 
who enriched me with many pamphlets that he had written, 
including one on the Parliament of Religions ; George Picot, 
the historian of the States General of France, a former 
Cabinet Minister, a Catholic layman of great benevolence, 
breadth of mind, and spiritual enthusiasm ; and Arthur 
Desjardins, the President of the League against Atheism. 
To me as interesting as the living faces upon which I 
looked were the busts of the dead. On either side of the 
magnificent portrait of Cardinal Richelieu I saw the marble 
features of such men, the true glories of France, as Lamar- 
tine and Guizot, De Tocqueville and Thiers. 

We had expected to hear a paper on the rights of nations 
involved in the Chino- Japanese war, by Arthur Desjardins, 
Advocate-General of the Court of Cassation. He had told 
us that he would invite the Chinese and Japanese embassies 



62 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

to be present. Fine and scholarly appeared the Japanese 
representatives, who were seated by the polite Desjardins 
upon a cushioned bench on our left. After a while the tall 
figure of the Chinese representative appeared at the door. 
As no one seemed to observe him, we beckoned him to a 
seat between us. This was noticed by Desjardins, who 
hastily came up to him and said, — 

" Please come and take a seat with your compatriots over 
there." 

Inerrancy does not belong even to the members of the 
French Institute. The solemn face of the Chinese minister 
was drawn down into greater solemnity, partly because his 
nationality was mistaken, and "partly because he must sit 
beside the representatives of the younger, smaller, and yet 
victorious people. 

We could not linger to hear Desjardins' whole paper, and 
somewhat reluctantly we left the Institute for other scenes. 
I left also my companion and drove off, armed with a ticket 
of admission, toward the chief of the sixty entrances to the 
catacombs, those vast subterranean labyrinths, going back 
to Roman times, from whose treasury of rock Paris has been 
built, and whose long galleries have been decorated with 
the bones of her dead. Lighted candle in hand, I went 
with a company of about one hundred on this subterranean 
pilgrimage, lasting an hour. 

To me the most interesting feature of the journey was 
not the almost interminable walls of human skulls decorat- 
ing miles of thigh-bones and other osteological fragments of 
humanity, nor the chapels here and there ; it was the great 
assortment of sepulchral inscriptions toward which we 
pressed our candles while eager eyes read what seemed to 
be the messages of the dead to the living. The words 
written on these mortuary walls during the eighteenth cen- 
tury were of a philosophical cast, and might have come 
from Diderot or Franklin. There were solemn exhorta- 
tions to respect the tomb, and thereby respect the dead. 
But what seemed to be the later inscriptions were very 



PARIS. 6l 

largely sentences from the Psalms and from the New Testa- 
ment. A walk through these catacombs makes death seem 
a greater fact than would be suggested by a ride over the 
field of Waterloo or Sedan. Most of my companions were 
in a merry mood, and a company of French students kept 
up their loud singing of very lively airs througli much of 
our journey. 

Leaving without reluctance the quarries, the sepulchres, 
and the darkness made visible, I drove to that monument 
of municipal splendor, the new Hotel de Ville, the town 
hall of the French capital, passing en route the portals and 
towers of Notre Dame. This church grows to me more 
beautiful with repeated observations. It has not the mas- 
siveness of many other cathedrals, but there are points of 
view from which the sculptures of the fagade appear as 
rich, delicate, and noble as any other work of the Gothic 
chisel. But while Notre Dame carries one back to the 
twelfth century, the Hotel de Ville belongs to the close of 
the nineteenth. It is one of the most copiously adorned 
structures of the French Renaissance style to be found in the 
world. The history of France may be read in its innumer- 
able statues. All about it is so fresh and bright that it is 
difficult to summon before the imagination the terrible 
scenes enacted on this spot during three revolutions. 
There was but a small party viewing the Hotel de Ville 
that afternoon. The guide inquired of me if any per- 
son were present who could speak English. I modestly 
claimed that ability, and was asked to translate the words 
of our conductor for the benefit of an Englishman who had 
just come from Australia. Accordingly I soon found my- 
self taking the American's proper place, — at the head of 
the procession. 

Returning to the house of Professor Bonet-Maury, we drove 
together to the old Palais de ITndustrie, which was built 
for the first great exposition in Paris in 1855. It is soon to 
be torn down as a preparation for the exposition of 1900. 
Here the Salon of the Champs Elys^es, which I had already 



64 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

glanced at, was attracting an immense crowd, literally from 
all the world. We met many interesting people as we 
looked at a few of the thirty-nine hundred and two ob- 
jects of art named in the catalogue. A number of por- 
traits drew our special attention, and among them were 
a few Napoleon pictures : " His Farewell to France," by 
Guiilon; "After the Charge at Hanau, 1813," by Char- 
tier; "The Eagles," representing the return from Russia, 
by Rouffet, and another called " Captif," by Dawant, — 
picturing the Emperor seated by the cradle of his young 
son, holding the baby's hand, while the attendants at the 
door look on in delighted wonder to see the great world- 
conqueror subdued by a child. 

There are now two salons called the Salon Champ de 
Mars and the Salon Champs Elysees. The first opened this 
year on the twenty-fifth of April, and I had the privilege of 
visiting it on Varnishing Day, when those who have invita- 
tions go for the purpose not so much of looking at the 
pictures as of looking at each other. The old Salon in the 
Palais de ITndustrie on the Champs Elys6es has a brilliant 
rival in the annual exhibition of the National Academy of 
Fine Arts in the Trocadero, on the Champ de Mars. The 
old Salon is supposed to be more classical and conservative. 
The new Salon is thought to be more original and to give a 
warmer welcome to novelties. It certainly eclipses every 
other exhibition in the novelties of its English, as shown in 
the illustrated catalogue, where the French name of the 
picture is kindly translated. The following specimens may 
appear impossibilities, but ocular demonstration will show 
that they have been deliberately printed : — 

" Jeune Fille en Blanc " is translated " Joung girl in 
wight " ; " Femme qui se chauffe," " Woman to the fire " ; 
" Merchandes de Pots," " Pot's trades women " ; " Prin- 
temps nu," "Spring nude fijimes " ; "La Pens^e qui 
s'eveille," "The taught awehening " ; "'Labour d'automne 
en Provence," " Falls labouring in provence " ; "Jeune Bai- 
gneuse," " Young batting girl " ; " Portrait Cycliste," " Por- 



PARIS. 65 

trait of a cycles " ; " En Automne," " In falls " ; '' Interieur 
Bourgeois," " Aristocratic interior " ; " Etendeuse de 
Linge," " Goods hangers " ; Le Jardin des Oliviers," " The 
Garden of Eden." This last work is so realistic a pic- 
ture of the scene in Gethsemane that it scarcely needs 
any title at all. For so scholarly and careful a nation as 
the French to pour such ignorant contempt on the Eng- 
lish language is a literary audacity which will surely bring 
its own punishment. 

I shall not attempt to record many of the impressions 
which came to me from two visits at the Champ de Mars 
Salon. The artist whose name is now more frequently on 
American Hps than any other is Puvis de Cliavannes. 

Of course the masterpiece of the new Salon is Dagnan- 
Bouveret's " Last Supper." It has been savagely attacked 
and enthusiastically eulogized. It needs no defence. It is 
its own supreme and splendid vindication. Unless one 
goes early, it is difficult to get a good sight of it, the crowds 
before it are so dense, and all seem to be fascinated and 
even awestruck by the strange loveliness of the Saviour's 
head, and by the flood of mellow light which appears to 
come from His whole form. The radiance of His person 
shines through the glass of wine which He holds in His 
hand, as He stands in the midst of the sitting Apostles. 
These are not looking at us, as if on exhibition, but 
are absorbed in the supernatural splendor of the Master. 
The face of John and the face of Peter are beautiful and 
strong after a new type. The whole picture is bathed in a 
strange roseate illumination, softened and spiritualized. 
Perhaps the work cannot altogether be justified from the 
standpoint of realism or of pure technique, but, in the 
midst of the other canvases brilliant with the hfe of to- 
day, it was a joy and uplift to the soul to behold this 
representation of Him who was and is the Light of the 
World. 

In the same room a smaller and very different crowd is 
always seen before B^raud's " La Pouss^," which represents 

S 



66 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

a brilliant banquet broken in upon by armed wretches. It 
is not a reminiscence of the French Revolution, but rather 
a terrible prophecy of that fiercer and deadlier horror which 
some of the modern apostles of anarchy are predicting and 
threatening. In B^raud's picture we see the frightened 
guests at the banquet hiding themselves from the incoming 
mob. But one man, while protecting a terrified woman, 
lifts his glass to the success of the invaders. Beraud will 
be remembered as the author of the sensational picture of 
Christ crucified on Montmartre, where the crucifixion is 
modernized and locaUzed in Paris. In this present ex- 
hibition he has a Christ crowned with thorns, which is a 
terrific bit of realism. 

The impressionists are in tremendous evidence at both 
Salons. Some of their pictures are simply incredible, and 
appear to have been conceived and executed merely with 
the purpose of producing the most startling sensation. 
Many of them appear to have no relation whatever to 
nature except as it might appear to a man in delirium 
tremens. Some of their works have a strength of rude, 
brilliant color which makes them distinctly visible three 
hundred feet away. The carrying power of these Krupp- 
gun pictures is immense. 

And yet several of the artists of the modern impression- 
ist school, and notably Louis Deschamps, are masters in 
the art of portraying the human face, not through minute- 
ness of detail but by the firm, bold, and yet delicate repre- 
sentation of the essential characteristics. A few touches, in 
painting as in poetry, may, when executed by the hand of 
a master, tell the whole story of human joy and sorrow 
more effectively and m.ore pleasurably than could elaborate 
description. And yet with many of the young Frenchmen 
who are seeking fame by the new methods of art one is re- 
minded of the caitiff to whom the knight cried out : 
" Craven, in the name of chivalry, draw, draw " — and 
then added charitably, " Stay, perhaps he cannot ; per- 
chance he is an impressionist." 



PARIS. 67 

The conventional and still popular style of portraiture is 
fairly well represented by Rondel's picture of Monsieur 
Felix Faure, the able and highly respected President of the 
French Republic. The presence of the French govern- 
ment is felt in these annual exhibitions in many ways. 
Some of the more striking sculptures and pictures already 
bear the inscription, " Commanded by the state." Every 
administration seeks to gain favor by the patronage of art, 
and through this the permanent collections of the French 
provincial cities are greatly enriched. 

He who goes to either Salon on Varnishing Day will see 
the official and Hterary and other notabihties of France. 
One afternoon the ex-Cabinet Ministers were so thick in a 
certain hall of the Palace of Industry that ray companion 
felt that we had wandered into a political graveyard. I 
had the pleasure of a conversation with an ex-minister who 
seemed rather happy in his fallen state. Monsieur Berthe- 
lot, one of the foremost chemists of France, had a brief and 
unfortunate career at the head of foreign affairs, and when 
the Bourgeois ministry fell a week ago he said, with a sigh 
of relief: " Now I can go back to my experiments." Ber- 
thelot is a courageous positivist, and when two years since 
Brunetiere, the brilliant editor of the " Revue des Deux 
Mondes," startled France by declaring that science had 
failed in its promises and that the nation could be saved 
only by the Roman Church, Berthelot denounced most 
vigorously the champion of the papacy, and added another 
voice of protest to the chorus of hostile clamors which 
Brunetiere had awakened. His successor in the foreign 
office, Monsieur Hanotaux, was also his predecessor. He 
has recently been awarded the prize by the French Acad- 
emy for his work on Richelieu, and, being a great admirer 
of that astute Cardinal, he had ordered a grand portrait of 
the ecclesiastical statesman. This, however, was not finished 
and brought into the office until Berthelot had succeeded 
him ; and Berthelot, looking up one morning and seeing 
this new picture and not recognizing his Eminence, ex- 



68 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

pressed his hatred of religion and of all ecclesiastics by 
calling out indignantly, — 

" Take that Abbe away ! " 

Professor Bonet- Maury was not a little amused by the 
politeness and interest with which this unbeliever conversed 
with me on the present religious condition of France and 
the prospects of a Congress of Religions in 1900. 

After leaving the Salon we called upon the Reverend 
Ernest Fontanes, President of the Consistory of Havre, 
a warm friend of the late Dean Stanley, He takes a deep 
interest in the work of bringing religious men into closer 
fellowship. At the banquet given me at the Palais Royal 
a few evenings ago, he had most courteously proposed 
my health as representing ''the country of hope," the 
country which brought the spirit of hope to the older na- 
tions. Among his friends is the Baroness Burdett-Coutts of 
London, now spending a few months at the Hotel du Rhin, 
looking out on the beautiful Place and Column Vendome. 
By special invitation we accompanied him to the apart- 
ments of this most famous of English philanthropists. She 
is now in her eighty-second year, but takes a keen interest 
in the affairs of the world which she has done so much to 
bless. My mission to India, a work founded by another 
Christian woman who loves the whole world, had attracted 
her attention, and she wished to learn more about it. She 
was especially pleased to hear that the Buddhist leader, 
Dharmapala, had written me that if Christians would add 
to their programme humanity to animals he would be glad 
to spend the rest of his life in preaching the gospel of the 
Sermon on the Mount. It happens that the Baroness is a 
chief patron of the English Society for the Prevention of 
Cruelty to Animals, and she wished me to carry to India 
documents which show that Christians are becoming more 
humane to the lower creation. This distinguished woman, 
whose income is said to be one thousand pounds a day, has 
a simplicity of speech and dress as captivating as it is re- 
markable. My French friends could not forget that she 



PARIS. 69 

might have been the Empress of France had she accepted 
the offer of marriage from Prince Louis Napoleon. 

From the Hotel du Rhin we walked out into the bright 
evening sunshine, and, parting with our eloquent friend 
Fontanes, we crossed the Place de la Concorde, which a 
witty lady of Paris told me was the best place for the meet- 
ing of the next Congress of Religions ! A few friends 
had been invited to dine with us. Among them were the 
son and daughter of my host, a brilliant French lawyer who 
was a candidate for the municipal council ; Madame Cal- 
mard \ her accomphshed daughter, Mademoiselle Calmard ; 
and the well-known Abbe F^lix Klein of the Catholic Insti- 
tute in Paris, the editor of Archbishop Ireland's discourses 
on the "Church and the Century" — a book which has 
already passed through five editions. I can imagine noth- 
ing more enlivening than a small dinner of this sort in 
Paris, where everybody talks to everybody else. In five min- 
utes the merry din becomes continuous and lasts for hours. 
Far into the evening we sat and discussed the affairs of 
the two Republics and the two Churches. It is the thought 
of men like Abbe Klein, Abbe Naudet, the editor of " Le 
Monde," and many others, including the Archbishop of Abri, 
that if the Catholic church is to command the present and 
future of France and of Europe it must come into closer 
sympathy with the modern world. I suppose a majority of 
the thoughtful men in France think with Paul Bourget that 
the future of old Europe is dark with fearful storms, and 
that modern society is approaching a monstrous cataclysm. 
It is but natural that enlightened minds trained in the 
Church of Rome and hospitable to American ideas, should 
believe that religion embodied in the old church, adjusting 
itself to new circumstances and representing both authority 
and liberty, is the chief hope of imperiled Europe. 

The American Chapel at the Rue de Berri has been reno- 
vated since my brief ministry there in 1873. It has a 
decidedly American look, and as I took my seat in one of 
the last pews and glanced over the heads of the congrega- 



•JO A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

tion fresh with the glory of Parisian miUinery, I could but 
think, " This is perhaps the best dressed congregation in 
the world." But such light thoughts were dispelled by Dr. 
Thurber's earnest sermon from the words "As an eagle 
stirreth up her nest." It was a comforting, practical dis- 
course on the wisdom of God in shaking us out of our old 
surroundings, in forcing us into new circumstances, to 
develop our untried powers, and to realize our higher 
mental and spiritual possibilities. I had the pleasure of 
preaching once more in the Chapel, but I found no one of 
my old parishioners of 1873, excepting Sidney Armstrong, 
the New York pubUsher, who was then quite a young man 
and who became my travelling companion through Italy. 
John Wananiaker was present, full of interest in my Indian 
mission; and the Reverend E. \V. Hitchcock, for eleven 
years the pastor of the American Chapel. Professor Bonet- 
Maury, who was at this service, said that by closing his 
eyes he would have thought himself once more in America ! 

I visited the other day the Huguenot Library, to which 
Baron de Schickler has generously contributed. It has a 
valuable collection of thirty thousand volumes, which seemed 
to me not merely a memorial of what Protestantism has suf- 
fered in France, but also a prophecy of what Biblical Chris- 
tianity, adapting itself to the new times, will yet achieve. I 
have spent one morning at the Protestant Seminary of the 
university, the school which after the Franco- Prussian War 
was removed from Strasbourg to Paris, and I found among 
the learned professors there an eager desire that something 
effective should be done to abate theological and churchly 
antagonisms in France, and to bring about a friendlier 
mutual understanding. I have breakfasted at the home 
of the Reverend M. Lacheret with a number of other 
orthodox Protestant ministers, and found among them a 
general sympathy with the special causes which have com- 
manded my efforts. 

I have recently spent a delightful morning visiting the 
Mus^e Guimet, the only extensive Museum of Religions 



PARIS. 71 

in Europe. It bears the name of its founder, a Lyons 
merchant of great inteUigence, who has given to Paris 
his unique and imposing collection of the .gods, cultus 
implements and objects connected with the rituals of 
Buddhism, Hinduism, Confucianism, Shintoism, and the 
ancient Olympianism. Much can be learned in a Museum 
of Religions, but I confess that my strongest feeling, as 
I looked upon these memorials of imperfect or perverted 
faiths, was a desire to do something to deliver humanity 
from the intellectual and spiritual bondage of which such a 
museum is the symbol. 

My chief purpose in coming to Paris was to fulfil an en- 
gagement made by the organizing committee of the Con- 
gress of Religions of 1900. It was with great trepidation 
that I looked forward to making my maiden speech in the 
French tongue. Thanks to the interest felt by the organ- 
izing committee, and their careful preparations, the Hall of 
the Learned Societies, where the conference was to be held, 
was thronged. I am told that the best representatives of 
the University of France and of the Faubourg St. Germain 
were gathered at the conference. The president of* the 
evening was Anatole Leroy-Beaulieu, a member of the In- 
stitute of France, and the distinguished author of the " Em- 
pire of the Czars and the Russians," and " Israel among 
the Nations." He is a Liberal Catholic, the head of an 
Anti-Socialistic League, and has held many conferences in 
this same hall, where he has often been hooted by the noisy 
socialistic students of the University. It was greatly feared 
that his presidency would be the occasion of similar inter- 
ruptions, and orders were given to admit no one to the 
hall excepting those who had received tickets from the 
committee. On the platform were the Archimandrite of 
the Greek Church of Paris, Porphurios Logothetis, formerly 
a monk of Mount Sinai, a man of much ability, who- is likely 
to become Patriarch in the Greek Church ; M. Frederic 
Passy ; M. Reinach, the Hellenist ; M. Picot, the economist ; 
Professor Albert R^ville ; the Vicomte de Meaux ; Baron de 



72 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE, 

Schickler; Abbe Charbonnel, and several other prominent 
leaders of French thought and life. In the audience were 
eight abb^s and many leading Catholic laymen, besides a 
number of French literati and French Protestant pastors. 
Zadoc Kahn was also present. 

I have rarely had so strange an experience as befell me 
at this conference. The words of a foreign language which 
one reads from a manuscript do not mean very much to the 
speaker, and I was surprised, after a few sentences, to find 
that I was touching sensitive chords in the minds of my 
hearers. The responses were immediate and sym.pathetic, 
and soon put me at ease with myself. I endeavored to set 
forth the greatness of religion in the spiritual history of 
mankind, and to show that the various manifestations of 
sincere religious faith should be treated with sympathetic 
regard, for even in error there are some rays of truth. I 
tried to show that the progress of mankind was toward, and 
not away, from religion ; and also that in the future, far 
more than it had been in the past, religion might become a 
means of drawing men into closer fellowship. The Chris- 
tian faith, at least, aimed at universalism ; the kingdom of 
heaven as founded by Jesus Christ out-reaches national 
limitations, and Christ Himself has nothing local or pro- 
vincial about Him. Furthermore, those of us who believe 
that in Christianity are the elements of a complete, final, 
and universal faith lose nothing, but gain much, in the 
propagandism so dear to us, by the spirit of tolerance, of 
charity, of fraternity. It is wise and right to acknowledge 
whatever of truth we discover in the faith of others, and 
whatever of good we discern in their lives. This of course 
was naturally illustrated by the spirit and purposes of the 
World's First Parliament of Religions. It was necessary to 
touch very briefly and carefully upon the Paris Congress of 
1900. The wisdom of France must decide whether such a 
Congress is wise, and imder what conditions it should be 
held. Undoubtedly there are grave obstacles in the way ; 
but France has an immense and glorious opportunity of 



PARIS. '^2) 

showing to the world the supreme importance of the things 
of the spirit. In my closing paragraph I said that France 
could erect on the banks of the Seine a nobler statue than 
that which stands at the entrance to the port of New York, 
if in 1900, in some great hall of the French capital, the 
believers in the Divine Fatherhood and in human fraternity 
gathered from all the world, should meet in friendly fellow- 
ship under a banner inscribed with these words, which might 
well be the motto of the twentieth century : " Down with 
persecution and intolerance, whether in the name of reli- 
gion or in the name of liberty ! Peace and universal fra- 
ternity among all men, in the name of the God of Mercy 
and of Love." 

In his opening address, Monsieur Beaulieu had said, in 
the words of a Greek priest, " The fences which separate the 
members of the Christian Church are very high, but, thank 
God, they are not so high as heaven." After my address. 
Professor Bonet-Maury was called upon to render the thanks 
of the conference, and he took occasion to speak of my 
journey to India and the importance of this Christian en- 
terprise. Then I was called upon to reply to all this kind- 
ness in my own language. Oh the comfort of the mother 
tongue 1 I shall take with me so long as I live the memory 
of this scene. A week later I addressed the Franco- 
Enghsh Guild of Women on the India Lectureship and 
its connection with the Religious Parliament. 

But the crowning expression of interest, unless I except 
a conference held at the house of Madame Siegfried, was 
the banquet given me last week at the Palais Royal. At 
this love-feast there were present, among others : Abb^ 
Charbonnel ; Professors Albert and Jean R^ville ; Anatole 
Leroy-Beaulieu ; George Poignant, formerly tutor of Prince 
Louis Napoleon Bonaparte ; Frank Puaux, editor of the 
" Revue Chrdtienne ; " Quesnerie, Professor of English at the 
Lycee St. Louis ; Gaufres, President of the League for the 
Improvement of Public Morals ; a Russian philanthropist, 
N. Nepluyeff, of Moscow; Theodore Reinach; Planchon, 



74 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Director of one of the chief scientific schools of the univer- 
sity ; Roberty, of the Oratoire ; the Reverend Charles 
Wagner, the author of "Youth" and of several other 
books which have had a wide circulation in English and 
other languages ; the Reverend E. Fontanes ; the Reverend 
M. Soderblom, a Swedish pastor; and Professor Bonet- 
Maury. 

In my remarks I endeavored to show that the wonderful 
hopefulness and national vigor which had carried France 
through her recent troubles indicated a temper which 
was adequate to the highest achievements of the spirit. 
After my remarks Anatole Beaulieu proposed a toast to 
the Congress of Religions of 1900. Reinach, the liberal- 
minded and scholarly Jew, declared his sympathy with the 
Christian remarks which had been made, and said that the 
word " Christian," broadly interpreted, had no terrors for 
him. Albert R^ville said with feeling that the meeting so 
harmonious and so loving of men of such various faiths and 
nations was a splendid prophecy of the death of intolerance ; 
and with great eloquence he cried out : " We may not be 
many, but we are in the stream of the world's greater and 
better future." Fontanes expressed with much beauty of 
language the gratitude which France felt to the American 
Republic, because that Republic, through its recent spiritual 
triumphs, had breathed over the older nation a new and 
better hope. Frank Puaux affirmed that all that is best in 
France will respond to a religion of aspiration, of hope, and 
of brotherhood. 



CHAPTER VI. 

A LITTLE TOUR IN FRANCE. 

"PARIS is not France. Such is the heretical opinion Avith 
■^ which I begin an account of two most interesting 
days. It is impossible for any city, however splendid and 
comprehensive, however national and unique, to reproduce 
all the features and to symbolize the total life of a great 
people. The French kings Louis XII., Francis L, Henry 
III., Henry of Navarre, Louis XIII., Louis XIV., never 
acted on the theory that Paris was France. They loved to 
leave the brilliant and troubled life of the capital, to build 
palace after palace amid the forests, vineyards, and wheat- 
fields of the pleasant land over which they ruled. American 
travellers find Paris so fascinating that they rob themselves 
of many quiet pleasures, of many days of purer air and 
sweeter sunshine which might be easily enjoyed within a 
few hours of the Boulevard des Italiens and the Rue de 
Rivoli. 

I shall always be grateful for the invitation of some 
cultivated American friends, who have an aptitude for find- 
ing the selecter pleasures of life — that called me into 
Touraine, to the banks of the Loire, and to the delightful dis- 
coveries — to me they were such — of the chateaux of 
Chambord and Blois. Henry James has made the few 
foreigners knowing enough to seek the Loire region his 
debtors by describing his " Little Tour in France," which, 
though lacking the pungent and peculiar wit of Heine and 
the exuberant imagination and sentiment of some other 
travellers, possesses a multitude of charms that make it a 



76 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

useful and pleasant companion. It is a book, however, 
which I would advise my friends to read after they have 
completed their journeys. Otherwise they may be in peril 
of looking at landscapes and chateaux almost constantly 
through Henry James's spectacles. I shall not moderate 
my enthusiasm for the beauty and varied attractions of my 
much briefer tour in France on account of any fear lest 
this letter should be deemed extravagant in its praise. My 
only fear is, rather, lest my strongest statements will be 
unable to drag any of my readers who are yet to be travellers 
out of the charmed circle of Paris. 

The fast train took me in two hours to Blois The line 
passes through Orleans, a name calling to the imagination 
a' form which, next to Napoleon's, is still the most magical 
and potent before the mind of France. I may have, been 
misled by the fresh verdure of the fields, the delicious cool- 
ness of the soft May breezes, and the splendor of the spring 
sunshine ; but the Country through which I passed in the 
first part of this brief journey seemed almost as beautiful 
as England. Arriving in Blois, a picturesque little city of 
twenty-five thousand people, built upon a hill, with its 
crooked and narrow streets, its old houses, many of them 
curiously sculptured, inviting every sketcher and photogra- 
pher to pause before them, with its market filled with 
figures toward which Millet has made us feel friendly and 
fraternal ; with its lofty churches and dominating cathedral, 
and, above all, with the almost unequalled attraction of its 
historic chateau, wherein you may follow the splendid and 
sanguinary history of France for three centuries, — one feels 
immediately that he has escaped from those modern glories 
with which Paris has hidden so much of her antiquity. 

The Grand Hotel of Blois, which is small and antique, 
furnished, during my brief sojourn, that kind of familiar hos- 
pitality which, as Henry James says, " a few weeks spent in 
the French provinces teaches you to regard as the highest 
attainable form of accommodation." I am a man of spa- 
cious and not excessively fastidious appetite, but still I have 



A LITTLE TOUR IN FRANCE. jy 

learned to appreciate those artistic and skilful touches by 
which the legitimate pleasures which come with the satisfac- 
tion of hunger may be considerably enhanced. The twelve 
o'clock breakfast, with its ten courses, ending with the de- 
licious pots of sweetened cream, fit for the tables of Olym- 
pus, reminded me of that favorite after-dinner story in which 
we read that the post-prandial orator exclaimed : " I feel 
like Martin Luther at the Diet of Worms : ' God help me, I 
can take no other course.' " Such a breakfast was a beau- 
tiful preparation for a twelve- mile drive to the Chateau de 
Chambord, which my friends very judiciously decided to 
show me before I saw the richer and more interesting at- 
tractions of the Chateau de Blois. 

We crossed the Loire, — a noble stream flowing down to 
the sea, which it reaches by the city of Nantes, that great 
red mark in the history of France. Nantes once meant to 
the Huguenots protection and toleration. It came to mean 
cruel oppression and exile from a land which has been more 
passionately loved than any other beneath the sun. A 
Catholic scholar of world-wide fame said to me the other 
day in Paris : " The revocation of the Edict of Nantes was 
a great misfortune to France." 

''Yes," I said, ''but it gave much of the best blood of 
France to Holland, England, and America." 

"To South Africa, also," he added, "where the best 
blood among the Boers is Huguenot." 

The Loire lures the imagination down its broad stream to 
the great Castle of Amboise, where Mary Stuart of Scotland 
spent the early days of her first marriage, — a castle whose 
balcony was once grim with the heads of Huguenots, — to 
Tours, the charming centre of the garden of France, and 
one of the chief landmarks of human history, for near it 
Christendom was saved from the Moslem by the iron arm 
of Charles the Hammer ; and it flows smilingly on through 
" the land of Rabelais, of Descartes, of Balzac." It is rather 
hard, as one looks at the placid and sun-kissed bosom of 
the Loire, to realize what dark secrets are hidden in its 



yS ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

depths. Crossing the river, I saw how picturesquely the 
temple-crowned Blois is seated on her gentle hills. 

The drive to Chambord was delightful, partly because the 
company was spirited, and the horses good, and the air as 
brilliant as the life of the French Renaissance which made 
the atmosphere of our thoughts, and partly because the 
scenery was not too interesting. The region might have 
been Illinois. But what may have been lacking in the land- 
scape was more than supplied by the strange magnificence 
of the wondrous building which lifts its many towers and 
spires and chimneys above the broad plain in the great 
park of Chambord. The chateau is enormous, and it sug- 
gests the almost Roman splendor and might of the French 
kings who could build such summer-houses. The present 
building was begun by Francis L, and the striking sala- 
mander of his coat of arms appears almost everywhere, a 
part of the innumerable ornaments which decorate the halls 
of the vast interior. We were conducted through the spa- 
cious and empty apartments ; we mounted the celebrated 
grand staircase with its mysterious double flight, which per- 
mits people to ascend and descend at the same time without 
meeting ; we kept company in imagination with the Em- 
peror Charles V,, whom his great rival, Francis I., once en- 
tertained here; we thought of the brilliant fetes which 
Louis XIV. celebrated with his court in the four hundred 
and forty rooms of the chateau ; we were reminded that 
Moliere's "Bourgeois Gentilhomme " had its first represen- 
tation here under the direction of the great dramatist ; we 
remembered that the exiled King Stanislaus of Poland tried 
to comfort himself within these walls, and recalled that 
Mar^chal Saxe, the great soldier, strove in vain to be happy 
with this splendid gift from his king. 

One cannot walk for an hour in France without striking 
the French Revolution. That supreme event divided the 
land into convenient parcels for the peasants, and swept like a 
tornado through all the palaces of the kings. Chambord and 
Blois were despoiled. We ascended to the roof at the top of 



A LITTLE TOUR IN FRANCE. 79 

the great staircase, and saw the lantern that has been called 
" the bristhng crown of Chambord," still " tipped with a huge 
fleur-de-lis in stone," which the fierce hand of the Revolution 
did not reach. Napoleon established here one of the cohorts 
of the Legion of Honor, and the Corsican soldier tossed this 
miracle of the Bourbon kings as if it were a toy into the lap 
of his marshal, Berthier, Prince of Wagram. After much 
trouble and litigation the chateau came into the possession 
of the heir of Louis Philippe, who thereupon called himself 
Comte de Chambord. From this truly royal but dismantled 
barrack he sent out his proclamation to the French people, 
commanding them to become his loyal subjects under the 
white flag of the Bourbon lilies, surrendering forever the 
tricolor of the Revolution, the Empire, and of the Repub- 
lic ! But French kings are expensive luxuries of the past. 

Bringing away a few souvenirs from this pathetic memorial 
of the old regime, we drove back to Blois, and found that 
the dinner at the little hotel fulfilled the briUiant promise of 
the breakfast. Tasso, m his "Jerusalem Delivered," has 
praised the inhabitants of Blois, whom he had come to 
know and appreciate. Perhaps the dinners were as good 
and the beds as comfortable in his day as in ours ! The 
next morning we gave some time to the town, which was 
the birthplace of Louis XIL, and of a still greater man, 
whose statue adorns the top of the monumental staircase, 
Denis Papin, the inventor of the first steam-engine. But 
I went to Blois to see the chateau, the most interesting 
non-ecclesiastical building which I have visited for many a 
day. It has been restored rigorously and splendidly, and is 
now a historical monument of the state, under the guardian- 
ship of the city of Blois. You may read its full and fasci- 
nating story, I believe, in Walter Larned's '' Chateaux and 
Cathedrals of France." 

He who knows the Chateau of Blois knows the brilliant 
and bloody course of French history from the thirteenth 
century, when was built the most ancient part now stand- 
ing, which contains the Hall of the States General. It was 



80 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

in this hall that the tricolor flag of France was made the 
national banner. The white represents royalty, the prin- 
ciple of secular authority ; the blue symbolizes the Church, 
the sanctions of religion ; the red stands for the Third Estate, 
the people, and for the principles of liberty and equality. 
Democracy, run mad and become lawless and atheistic, de- 
mands a red flag from which the white and blue have been 
removed. The tricolor of France is the flag of safe and 
noble progress, and it gained a new meaning for some of us 
as we stood within the Castle of Blois. 

Through the portal of the beautiful facade of Louis XII., 
with its arches, pinnacles, and royal devices, we enter the 
court, and begin to understand the fascinations, not only of 
this wing of Louis XIL, but also of the even more superb 
construction on our right, which bears the name of Francis I. 
Before we are conducted by our arch^ological guide through 
this part of the chateau, we enter the little chapel where 
Henry of Navarre was married to Marguerite of Valois. 
Every memorial of the Bearnese prince is interesting, and 
we are glad of anything to contrast with the horrors which 
darken the wing of the chateau built by Francis I., which, 
architecturally, " is the most joyous utterance of the French 
Renaissance." The celebrated winding staircase, covered 
over with delicate work of the chisel, has been copied in 
the court of the new Hotel de Ville in Paris. Before we 
enter the wing of Francis I., and follow our guide through 
its many gilded rooms, we cast a rather contemptuous look 
on the western facade built for Gaston d' Orleans, brother of 
Louis XIIL, by the celebrated architect Mansard. It is 
lucky that the prince was unable to carry out his plan of 
demolishing the older and better parts of the castle, and 
replacing them with the stiffness — I feel like saying the 
stupidity — of Mansard. 

The presiding genius of the wing of Francis I. is not 
that monarch, although we see his salamander in many a 
room, but the dark and bloody Catherine de Medicis, the 
wife of one king of France and the mother of three others. 



A LITTLE TOUR IN FRANCE. 8 1 

Among the brilliant features of these not very spacious 
apartments are the decorated chimney-pieces, where the 
royal devices are plentiful. But if one is sensitive to the 
past, no brilliancy of decoration can make him forget that 
the dark spirits of cruel bigotry and murder have occupied 
these halls. In one of them Catherine de M^dicis and 
her princely accomplices planned the massacre of St. Bar- 
tholomew. And here, after that most awful night in the 
history of France, far more awful than the most devilish 
scenes of the French Revolution, Henry III., many of the 
chief events of whose fifteen years of unworthy kingship 
occurred within this chateau, his favorite residence, ordered 
the assassination of the Duke of Guise and of his Cardinal 
brother. We could follow the footsteps of the assassins, 
the desperate struggle and flight of the great and prosper- 
ous Duke ; we could see, with the mind's eye, the place 
where he died, and could watch Henry III. as he prayed 
while the assassination was going on, or as he peered 
through the door to see its consummation. We entered 
the chapel of Catherine de M^dicis, and then, in a room 
near by, our guide touched a spring which opened a secret 
panel behind which the gentle Catherine kept and mixed 
her poisons ! We saw the room where she died, not with- 
out remorse. Is it not one of the anomalies of history 
that Joan of Arc perished at the stake, while this she-wolf 
of Italy breathed her last in bed ! 

We walked out on Catherine's balcony, bright with color, 
through one of the deep-niched windows to the west facade 
of the chateau. It was good to get a breath of fresh air. 
Standing here and looking downward, we gain an idea 
of the massive foundations of this high and noble building. 
Here we look out over one part of the little historic city, 
and here we let our fancies fly swiftly back through the cen- 
turies to the time when the Roman soldiers planted their 
camp and the eagles of Rome on the site of this chateau. 
And then we see Joan of Arc, with her troops, leaving the 
town of Blois to rescue Orleans. We see the great Em- 



82 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

peror Charles V. coming down yonder street to rest in the 
castle. Many a royal procession follows through the years. 
And at last a greater Emperor, returning from Spain, which 
he had made his province, comes hither, with the Empress 
Josephine, to look at these then desolated walls. And yon- 
der, just before the downfall of the modern Charlemagne, 
the bravest of the brave marshals reviews the old Imperial 
Guard, which could die but never surrender. 

As I took the swift train to Paris that afternoon, regret- 
ting that I could not accompany my kind friends to the 
Chateau of Amboise, my mind was filled with two thoughts. 
First, the infinite picturesqueness of French history, — a pic- 
turesqueness of which Conan Doyle has made such good 
use in his " Memoirs of Brigadier Gerard." The other 
thought is one which stabs the mind in Blois as deeply as 
anywhere else in Europe ; namely, the horrible part which 
religion has sometimes played in the drama of human his- 
tory. Out of the shadows, however, the world sweeps into 
a brighter day, and that evening at Mr. Clarence Eddy's 
brilliant dinner-table, on the Rue des Capucines in Paris, I 
realized the contrast between the fierce conflicts of the six- 
teenth century and the milder struggles of the nineteenth, 
as I heard an earnest American lady exclaiming in the ear 
of a sceptical British doctor, " I tell you, sir, prohibition 
in Iowa has been a grand success ! " 

At the close of my stay in Paris I was glad to climb six 
flights of stairs to the apartments overlooking the Place de 
Madeleine in order to get a glimpse of the Grand Old 
Man of France, — one of the chief founders of the Republic, 
one of the glories of the French Institute, — Jules Simon. 
He was, I believe, in his eighty-third year, but he still 
spoke on many public occasions. We found him very 
much depressed over the death, a few hours before, of his 
illustrious friend Leon Say. He had already committed 
himself in favor of the Paris Parliament of 1900, but he 
conversed with most interest in regard to my coming 
visit as a Christian preacher to India. After we had 



A LITTLE TOUR IN FRANCE. 83 

talked together of the anxiety of Buddhists that Chris- 
tians should be more humane to animals, he gave an 
account of a Catholic missionary from one of the French 
possessions in Africa, who had recently called upon him to 
enlist his interest in saving black babies from the cannibals. 
A fat baby boy in this missionary's parish is in extreme 
peril. Whenever the missionary heard that such a tidbit 
was about to be eaten, he would endeavor to save the child 
by the offer of money, and now fifty francs are needed to 
rescue each black child. Jules Simon and his wife had 
helped in this good work, and it seemed to the venerable 
statesman that he might postpone any deep anxiety over 
the animals and confine his attentions to the sorrows and 
perils of black humanity exposed to cannibalism ! 

As I walked out of the rooms of his library, warmly 
walled with books, he accompanied me to the door, paus- 
ing for a few moments to look at the bust of his great friend 
Thiers. Then, still thinking and speaking of my journey 
around the world, which to a Frenchman and to an old 
man, seemed quite as much of an undertaking as the ad- 
venture of Columbus, he said, with the pleasantest of smiles, 
implying however that he was hoping for the almost 
impossible, — 

" Bon voyage ! " 

And among the many happy recollections of Paris there 
is scarcely one which I value so much as the memory of 
the old man's benediction. I little thought that within so 
short a tilne he was to enter upon that longer and more 
mysterious voyage where — 

" On a vaster sea his sail 
Drifts beyond our beck and hail." 

Paris has splendidly honored her greatest citizen, and on 
the bier of the savior of France rested the wreath of the 
German Emperor. Would that the old antagonisms might 
be buried beneath that laurelled sepulchre ! 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE GERJMAN UNIVERSITY. 

/~^ OTTINGEN has recently been honored by a visit from 
^-^ the Kultus Minister of Berlin. He occupies high 
rank in the imperial cabinet, — a fact which shows how much 
more dignity belongs to learning and its institutions in 
Germany than belongs to it in Great Britain or America. 
The new laboratory of Physical Chemistry was dedicated 
daring the ministerial visit, and the annual prizes for the 
best theses in the various departments of the university were 
announced in the Aula, the old university headquarters, a 
sort of monument to King Wilham IV. of England, whose 
statue adorns the square before the building, and whose 
portrait appears with the old Emperor William's and several 
others in the audience hall within. Here I saw for the 
first time the members of all the faculties in their ofificial 
robes and caps. They impressed me as a body of big- 
brained men, while their gowns, and in many cases their 
honorary decorations, made a scene of academic splendor 
to which we are not accustomed in America. This splendor, 
too, was greatly enhanced by the picturesque costumes of 
the various Verbindungen, or student societies. 

When the Pro-rector was ready to announce the prize, in 
each case one of the red-robed " pedells," or university 
policemen, received from the head of the special depart- 
ment a sealed letter, which the Pro-rector cut open with a 
knife, and learned what no one in the world knew up to 
that moment, — the name of the prize-winner. As soon as 
each name was announced a blast of music followed from 
the orchestra, but there was no demonstration of applause 



THE GERMAN UNIVERSITY. 85 

from the audience. There is an immense deal of phleg- 
matic solidity in the German spirit, and when later the Pro- 
rector proposed three cheers for the present Emperor, and 
when all arose and the swords of the society students were 
lifted in air, the cheers were given in unison, with military 
precision and without a particle of that wild enthusiasm 
which, while I write, greets the names of favorite political 
leaders in the Convention at St. Louis. 

Nearly a hundred of my fellow-countrymen are now here, 
and three thousand Americans are pursuing higher studies 
in German universities. Gottingen has for nearly a cen- 
tury been a favorite seat of learning for American students. 
Undoubtedly the foremost German university to-day is Ber- 
lin, with its three hundred and seventy-seven instructors and 
ninety-two hundred and three students, but many come 
hither from Berlin on account of the smaller numbers and 
the more available libraries. Four months of observation 
and conferences with American students in nearly all the 
departments of university life have not only given me many 
interesting impressions, but have also raised still higher my 
estimate of that peculiar national institution the German 
University. It is, on the whole, the best organization now 
in existence for enlarging the bounds of systematized knowl- 
edge. It furnishes opportunity and incentive to the student 
to learn from libraries, laboratories, and living teachers the 
last results of investigation, and, in some respects more im- 
portant still, it gives to instructors golden opportunities for 
continued and successful research. The German professor 
is not the drudge of the class-room. Perhaps his main 
business is to furnish to other scholars, through books and 
reviews, the best results of his investigation or his specu- 
lation. 

The German professor, while a man of wide general cul- 
ture, is primarily a specialist, and the supreme achievements 
in the advancing of human knowledge are partly due to the 
narrowing of the field of particular study. In great de- 
partments, like chemistry, no one man covers the whole 



86 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

field. It is the specialists that gain celebrity and draw 
students. For example, here in Gottingen, Professor Nernst 
has become so famous in Physical Chemistry that he was 
loudly called to the University of Munich, but was persuaded 
to remain here on the condition that he might have built 
for him a well-equipped laboratory, which has been recently 
dedicated, and is the only building in the world, I believe, 
devoted exclusively to Physical Chemistry. An examination 
of the German university calendar furnishes almost number- 
less examples of the present subdivision of departments. 

While I compare, in certain particulars, the German 
university and the American college, my readers should re- 
member that the two do not occupy the same field, and 
are not intended to serve exactly the same ends. The 
German Gymnasium, with its many years of well-directed 
instruction and thorough drill, corresponds in considerable 
measure with the college. The university gathers hundreds 
or thousands of these carefully drilled young men, all grad- 
uates from the Gymnasium, and affords them the oppor- 
tunity of pursuing special studies under celebrated professors, 
usually as a preparation for professional or official life. Of 
course there are universities in America which are worthy 
of the name. But they are usually linked with colleges, and 
lack that unity of system which prevails here. The first 
two or three semesters of a German university student's life, 
especially if he is a member of a corps, are usually spent, to 
a very large degree, in drinking, duelling, and " bummel- 
ling." This may be his first full taste of liberty. He has 
worked very hard, perhaps too hard, during his years in the 
gymnasium. He probably has seen little of life, has not 
travelled so much as the American student, and now, associ- 
ated with young men of various minds, of different ranks, 
and from different parts of the empire and of the world, he 
finds his opportunity of learning much that lies outside the 
domain of books. He of course drinks beer, and to excess. 
But it is the universal testimony of men coming hither 
from our richer Eastern colleges that there is more real 



THE GERMAN UNIVERSITY. 8/ 

drunken dissipation in these American institutions than in 
the German universities. But it must be said that dissipa- 
tion in the three hundred and fifty American colleges, taken 
all together, East and West, is, after all, confined to the few ; 
that the mass of American students, especially in the West- 
ern and in the smaller colleges, are above grave reproach, 
and are devoted to their work, and that in most of our col- 
leges one gets an impression of moral earnestness which is 
not equally discoverable here in Germany. " The ' Bursch ' 
is free," is the song of the German student. It is a hila- 
rious liberty which he enjoys, and with all the advantages 
which one discovers in the German system, and with all the 
lovable traits of the German character, one comes to value 
more highly than ever some of the results of the grand 
Puritan discipline, of the noble Christian training, generally 
prevalent in the American colleges. On the eastern side of 
the Atlantic the main purpose is to fit the student to become 
a useful servant of the state. On the western side of the 
Atlantic I find the general purpose to fit the student for the 
service of the Kingdom of God. In Germany the student 
is very rarely seen in church. The American student is 
usually a church-goer. 

Another striking contrast between German and American 
institutions of learning is this, that in Germany one can dis- 
cover no rivalry between the various universities. There is 
none of that intense and sometimes excessive devotion to 
one seat of learning, mingled with a hostile and deprecia- 
tory spirit toward others. The twenty-three universities of 
the Fatherland, from Konigsberg in the northeast to Stras- 
bourg in the southwest, from Berlin, organized early in the 
present century, to Heidelberg, founded in the latter part of 
the fourteenth century, all are parts of one great govern- 
mental system, and in large measure are considered to be 
equal. It is often the ambition of the German student to 
take his six semesters in as many different universities as pos- 
sible. He passes freely from one to the other, attracted by 
a variety of considerations, desire for change, the advantages 



88 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

of some special department, the fame of some great profes- 
sor. For example, men are drawn to Gottingen from older 
and larger universities, by the celebrity of Professor Orth, 
who is deemed, after Virchow, the foremost pathologist in 
the world, and on account of the advantages offered by the 
immense and costly hospital, with laboratories, generally 
called the " Clinics," which is famous throughout Europe. 
Generally speaking, it may be said that there are no athletics 
in German universities. The duellists, of course, have their 
drill in fencing, and there are Turnvereine, societies for in- 
door gymnastics ; but boating, base-ball, foot-ball, foot-rac- 
ing and all the varieties of athletic contest which absorb the 
energies of American students and sometimes foolishly im- 
bitter the rivalries of American colleges, are unknown here. 

But the most characteristic German institution is the 
students' duel, a prominent feature in the university life of 
Gottingen, Jena, and Heidelberg, far more so than in Ber- 
lin, whose metropolitan character has a tendency to reduce 
the importance of this form of athletic sport. Duelling is an 
institution of student life which Germany finds it hard to 
get rid of. In a pamphlet published this year in Munich it is 
stated that among the forty thousand students in the Ger- 
man higher institutions there occur yearly at least eight 
thousand Schlagermensuren, or duels, with the light, sharp 
sword, where the duellist is protected in arms, breast, neck, 
and eyes, and which is a trivial affair compared with the 
sabre duel, which is serious business, and wherein the 
fighters are usually protected around the neck and under 
the arms. 

A few days ago I was invited by an American student to 
accompany him to the Mensur, which occurs every Wednes- 
day at a meeting-place three miles out in the country, 
beyond Burg Grona. Of the twelve duels fought that day 
we saw three. Beyond a small garden, fitted up with beer- 
tables, was a hall, perhaps forty by forty feet, with an ante- 
room where the wounded were cared for. About seventy- 
five students of various societies were present. The corps 



THE GERMAN UNIVERSITY. 89 

Students have their contests elsewhere. We were very 
politely received and entertained during the short time of 
our stay. About the hall are big boxes containing the im- 
plements used in these sports, and plenty of surgeons and 
assistants were on hand. Two duels had already occurred, 
and the combatants for the third were almost ready when 
we arrived. 

The fighters, representing different societies, having no 
malice against each other, but appointed to their tasks, 
looked rather serious as they faced one another, but cer- 
tainly they were also grotesque, with big eye-protectors 
strapped behind their ears, with their left hands tied behind 
their backs, with a large stuffed breast- plate like those used 
by baseball catchers covering the whole front of the body, 
and with the right arm of each so swathed with heavy ban- 
dages that a friend had to support it in a horizontal posi- 
tion during the intervals of the fight. Each combatant has 
by him a guard, who, with a sword, keeps off the more dan- 
gerous blows. The men wore their caps until the last 
moment. Then these were taken off, their arms were 
raised above their heads, the signals were given, the swords, 
moved only by the wrists, began to strike down, and soon 
the fur, or, rather, the hair, began to fly, as one of the 
swords found its way to the scalp of the less successful com- 
batant. The surgeons frequently interfered to examine the 
wounds. Each Gang, or round, lasts but a few seconds, and 
the duel is over in ten minutes. One man suffered most in 
his cheeks, and the other on his scalp. The fight ended 
with neither duellist rejoicing in a clean victory. A good 
deal of blood was spilled, and the young men did not look 
very beautiful. They shake hands, the bandages are re- 
moved, and the surgeons and assistants begin diligently 
their tasks of sewing up the many gashes. This work takes 
about an hour, while other duels are in progress. There 
was no excitement, and there was no cheering in these 
contests. 

In the second fight which I witnessed, two tall, fine-look- 



90 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

ing young fellows, with fresh faces, unmarred by any sword- 
cuts, were mated against each other. One of the contest- 
ants, a law student recently from Berlin, did not receive a 
scratch, while in five minutes he carved the top of his 
opponent's head into a bloody checker-board, and the 
surgeons ordered the blood-letting to stop. 

In the third duel a small man was matched against a tall, 
eagle-nosed fellow. The contest lasted but a few minutes. 
The taller man began to weaken at once. He looked pale, 
and was not fortified even by the glass of cognac which 
was administered. The surgeons discovered that his heart 
was acting badly, and the fight was stopped. 

I had seen enough to satisfy my curiosity and to enable 
me to form a fair judgment on the relative merits of Ger- 
man duelling and American foot-ball. The Mensur is an 
old and popular institution, dear to the students, and 
strongly championed by Prince Bismarck and Emperor Wil- 
liam. It is supposed to be useful for the German university 
man to receive the training in nerve, courage, and fortitude 
afforded by the Mensur. Plucky, indeed, and never winc- 
ing for a moment, were the young fellows whose heads I 
saw sewed up by the surgeons. Had they quailed under 
the needle, they would have lost caste with their societies. 
It appears to me a shocking thing for young men to allow 
their faces to be marred, not in actual batde and not in 
just quarrels, but in these conventional and artificial fights. 
Still, the student is proud of his gashes, and they commend 
him to German men and particularly to German women. 

These sword duels, as distinguished from the rare and 
terrible sabre duels, are not so dangerous to life and health 
as foot-ball in the way it is often played. But foot-ball re- 
quires a better and fuller physical training. It develops 
swiftness, strength, patience, pluck, obedience, and intelli- 
gence, and thus can accomplish more for the player than 
does the duel for those who prepare for it and practise it. 
Besides, foot-ball is played out of doors, and gives whole- 
some pleasure to thousands of spectators. 



THE GERMAN UNIVERSITY. 9 1 

The question of athletics is not yet fully settled, but, in 
what goes toward the best physical development, the Brit- 
ish and American universities appear to me to surpass the 
German. Duelling here is contrary to law, but its practice 
is winked at by the authorities. The Germans cling so 
pertinaciously to what is national that they may be slow in 
adopting any of the athletic features of foreign schools. 
The student who now dearly loves his Mensur, and doubtless 
finds in it some little preparation for the battlefield, will 
yet surrender his mediaeval sword, don the ugly habit of 
the foot-ball player, and revel in the exhilaration of all out- 
doors. The time will come when, among this great people, 
men will no longer be wilhng to disfigure the " human face 
divine." Very slowly, but ultimately, some features of the 
English and American athletic life will, I think, be in- 
troduced with considerable advantages into the German 
universities. 

Almost every one knows that the system of teaching here 
is through lectures, and in the scientific departments also 
through individual laboratory work. Seminars supplement 
the lecture system. But here everything leads to and de- 
pends upon the examination. Regular attendance upon 
lectures is far from general, and is not always necessary. 
The student must be in residence, and his book is signed 
by the professor at the beginning and end of the semester, 
though his face may be quite unfamiliar to his teacher. The 
story is told of a young man in Jena who handed his book 
to the professor for signature at the close of the half year, 
and when the professor remarked, " I have not seen your 
face before," the student replied, " Oh, I sat behind the 
pillar ! " " You are the twenty-third student," said the pro- 
fessor, as he signed his name, " who sat behind that pillar ! " 
Under this system, where all depends on one examination, 
it is inevitable that there should be much cramming. The 
candidates for degrees, especially perhaps the non-German 
students, who have the disadvantage of working in a foreign 
language, look upon the examination as the critical experi- 



92 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

ence of student life. Some of the Americans here toil pro- 
digiously in the months preceding the two hours during 
which a committee of learned German professors test, with 
conscientious thoroughness, the variety and accuracy of the 
technical knowledge which has been acquired. The Arbeit, 
or thesis, which every candidate is required to submit, must 
be an original piece of work, and itself a valuable contribu- 
tion to knowledge. I have known students here who have 
worked for months over an Arbeit, and then have discov- 
ered that some other thesis had been published covering 
the same ground. In a few cases this disappointment has 
been repeated several times. 

The German student does not usually appear to be so 
hard a worker as his American contemporary. But he has 
the advantage of the best preliminary drill in the world. 
He begins his Latin early, say at eight years, and through 
the long, constant discipline of his preparatory training, he 
comes to know well the chief subjects of study. His mem- 
ory is not impaired, as with us, by the excessive reading 
of ten thousand things, like newspapers, which he has no 
thought of remembering, and by the fatal system of requir- 
ing the study of a great many topics at the same time. 
What gets into the German mind, thus disciplined, is apt 
to stay there. Of course in the German university, as more 
and more with the higher American colleges, large use is 
made of the library, and the one in Gottingen contains 
nearly half a million books. Supplementing all that I have 
heretofore described, are the various student societies, which 
enroll those, for example, who are studying Chemistry, The- 
ology, Mathematics, Philology, Physics, Greek, Roman Law, 
or Philosophy. They meet perhaps once a week for con- 
ference, and the professor in the department is a vi'elcome 
visitor, taking part in the discussion and also in the long 
hours of sociable drinking which follow. 

To me the most impressive thing in a German university 
is the German professor. He may be spoken of in general 
as a man of single purpose, high aims, lifelong devotion to 



THE GERMAN UNIVERSITY. 93 

his specialty, large and sometimes extraordinary acquire- 
ments, hating superficiality, narrowly confined to the scien- 
tific side of truth, a man who digs very deeply his well or 
shaft, and who is apt to underrate the work of those who 
simply sow the surface of our earth with those grains o 
truth by which humanity is kept alive, Gottingen has had 
its full share of renowned professors. This Georgia- Augusta 
University, begun in 1737, under the patronage of George 
II., Prince of Hanover, who was also King of England, 
has numbered among its celebrities Burger the poet ; 
the historian Gervinus ; the chemist Wohler, who discov- 
ered aluminum ; the physicist W. Weber, who invented the 
electric telegraph before Morse ; the Hebraist Ewald ; the 
theologian Ritschl, and the lexicographer Jacob Grimm. 
Great men are still here to support the old renown. Stu- 
dents are attracted hither from almost all the world by the 
fame of Professor Klein, one of the foremost mathema- 
ticians now living, whose face became familiar to many 
Americans during the year of the World's Fair. Professor 
Heyne, who continues the editorship of Grimm's great 
German dictionary, the editor of the best editions of 
Ulfilas and of Beowulf, is one of the leading philologists 
of the world. Professor von Wilamowitz-Mdllendorff is 
deemed by many the greatest Greek scholar in Europe. 
He is now lecturing several hours a week, in Latin, on Aris- 
tophanes. Professor Schurer is here, whose *' History of 
the Jewish People in the Times of Jesus Christ " is one of 
the indispensable books to the modern student. Of course 
one of the world-famous names of Gottingen is Julius Well- 
hausen, now lecturing on Jewish History from Cyrus to 
Vespasian. For a moment let us follow a little company 
of German, Scotch, Irish, and American students into his 
lecture-room in the Auditorium. We pass through quite a 
crowd of young men, with a few young women, who are 
coming out of the various lecture-rooms, or who linger for 
a moment on the steps. From seven o'clock in the morn- 
ing to seven and eight in the evening, groups representing 



94 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

the eleven hundred students who are studying in the uni- 
versity are seen passing in and out of this building. It is 
now a httle after twelve o'clock, and we enter the lecture- 
room and seat ourselves on the dark wooden benches, which 
have been plentifully carved with names by several genera- 
tions of most honorable youths. At a quarter past the hour 
Professor Wellhausen enters, stands behind his desk, and 
in a rapid voice begins at once his lecture. He is a short, 
strong, heavy man, with a large, firm, good-natured face, an 
immense, somewhat retreating forehead, dark hair, and gray 
beard. He speaks with increasing rapidity and indistinct- 
ness, is absorbed in his subject, never once looks at his 
hearers, has only a few notes, very often turns nearly around, 
and with one hand in his pocket talks with earnest volu- 
bility to the ceiling. With immense brilliancy, with great 
dogmatism, with profound learning, he proceeds with his 
task of reconstructing ancient Jewish history. Occasion- 
ally he cracks a German joke, which sets the lecture-room 
in a roar. Quite different from Wellhausen is Professor 
Schultz, whose lectures on Christian Apologetics are now 
drawing a larger number of hearers. Professor Schultz sits 
during his lecture, and frequently looks at his eager listen- 
ers. He speaks somewhat rapidly, but very distinctly, 
glancing every few minutes at his notes, speaking earnestly 
and with great freedom, from a mind filled with wise and 
carefully digested thought. Professor Schultz may be called 
a specialist in several departments. He is now reading on 
Apologetics, Isaiah, and Homiletics — and sometimes he 
reads on Dogmatics. His work on Old Testament The- 
ology is regarded as one of the best books of our time. 
He is one of the rare men greatly needed in these days 
of reconstruction, who know thoroughly several great de- 
partments of theological and philosophical thought. 

The advantages of German university life to an Ameri- 
can are great, but are easily overrated. They are far less 
important than they were twenty years ago. True American 
universities, where men and women may study almost every- 



THE GERMAN UNIVERSITY. 95 

thing under competent professors — universities like Johns 
Hopkins, Columbia, Harvard, Yale, Cornell, and Chicago 
— are making it less necessary for the students of the higher 
learning to come to Germany. Still, residence here is the 
swiftest course to a knowledge of the German language. 

Only about a hundred American students are found in 
the magnificent University of France, and I am convinced 
that if more of our countrymen seeking educational advan- 
tages abroad were to resort to Paris, it would result in 
greater variety and in more flexibility and grace in the 
culture found in our higher seats of learning. Education 
in Europe should usually begin with mature years. Ameri- 
can parents make a mistake in keeping their young chil- 
dren a long time in French or German schools, for this 
course often results in partially de-Americanizing them, and 
in unfitting them for the happiest and most useful life in their 
own country. English parents have the advantage of being 
able to send their children to the Continent for shorter 
periods. 

But in Germany great honor is put upon university train- 
ing. The university is the gate through which all must 
pass who enter into professional life or serve the state in 
the more important offices. Probably no country, on the 
whole, is so well administered in its governmental depart- 
ments, as Germany. America might well sit for a decade 
in humble docility at the feet of a nation where integrity, 
conscientious thoroughness, and long and careful prepara- 
tion for official life are a part of the national self-respect. 
Again, it should be remembered that though the area of 
freedom is much narrower here than with us, still the in- 
tellectual liberty accorded to the German professor is 
larger. He is free from ecclesiastical and every other kind 
of dictation and control. This is undoubtedly in many 
respects an advantage. Germany's contributions to new 
knowledge in every line have been prodigious. Even the 
sceptical scholarship which has attacked Christian super- 
naturalism in the Scriptures, has removed many errors, 



96 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

widened the boundaries of ascertained truth, and shown, 
sometimes unwittingly and unwillingly, the impregnability 
of the Christian citadel. The sceptical speculations of 
one school have been attacked and disproved by new 
schools of theorists. There is doubtless often a good deal 
of inflation and unreality in the dogmatic conclusions of 
German theological scholars. Much of their enormous 
labor is vitiated by preconceived philosophical theories, 
and the deeper religious earnestness and the grand com- 
mon-sense of the Anglo-Saxon mind afford correction to a 
learning which sometimes pursues its way under the guid- 
ance of anti-supernaturalistic theories. I am not sorry 
that so many Americans are now pursuing their advanced 
studies in Europe. They get a new outlook, a new in- 
sight into the older civilization, and oftentimes, what is 
quite as important, a new conviction that America, true to 
her own best ideals, and appropriating the best which the 
Old World still has to teach her, may be destined to lead 
the march of human progress, even in the domain of 
education. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

A DAY IN CASSEL AND THE FOURTH OF JULY. 

TT was nine o'clock in the morning when we took our 
places in the train which was to take us to Cassel in 
an hour and a half. My companions had earned their 
holiday, and were keenly interested in everything, from 
historic memorials of the Thirty Years' War to the delights 
of a table d'hote dinner at the Hotel du Nord ; from the 
flower-bespangled fields to the masterpieces of Dutch art; 
from the curiosities of the German regulations and warnings 
inside our. car to the fountains, cascades, and monuments 
of the Wilhelmshohe Park. Much study is a weariness to 
the flesh, but much study is a good preparation for a brief 
journey through a land of art and history, partly for the 
reason that a Uttle play affords a fine exhilaration after 
faithful toil. Continual sight seeing and pleasure-seeking 
with people who have no vocation and no habits of serious 
work almost destroy the power of enjoyment. I have 
known rich young American girls and boys, too, to be so 
surfeited and so badly trained that the best things in Europe 
no longer gave them pleasure. So that I sympathize with 
a friend, now spending a short time in Paris, who feels a 
growing contempt for Americans who loll about that city 
and call it '' living abroad." As he listens to their recitals 
of how they kill time, he feels that time must have an 
easy death compared with the living which its murderers 
enjoy ! 

The strikingly beautiful region through which we passed 
presents many suggestions of that most frightful of all 
fierce contentions in civilized lands, the wasting Thirty 

7 



98 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Years' Religious War in Germany, that reduced sixteen 
millions of people to a population of only four millions. 
The town of Gottingen, which we left, endured a three 
months' siege from the terrible Tilly in 1624. A pestilence 
added its horrors to the savagery of war, and the moun- 
tains and forests which looked to us so beautiful as our 
train climbed the slope toward Munden, were once filled 
with dead bodies, the victims of battle and plague. 

At Munden, a delightful old town at the junction of the 
Fulda and Werra, which was captured by Tilly, is a 
memorial tower with a museum containing relics and repre- 
sentations of that horrible struggle of the seventeenth cen- 
tury. The two streams meeting here make the Weser, the 
river which we first saw at Bremerhaven, and which flows 
through " Hamelin town," where " deep and wide," it 
" washes its wall on the southern side," as Browning sings 
in the story of the Pied Piper. 

Cassel is now a prosperous and lovely city, with large 
squares, fine streets, several interesting monuments, two 
or three good museums, one church dating from the four- 
teenth century, a magnificent picture gallery, and, by all 
odds, the grandest park in Europe. It was once the 
capital of the Electorate of Hesse, and in the Friedrichs- 
pktz, we saw the marble statue of the landgrave, Frederic 
II., who during our Revolutionary struggle loaned to 
George HI., in consideration of twenty-two million dollars, 
twelve thousand of his soldiers. The monument stands 
near the museum which bears his name, a museum con- 
taining a large and interesting library, where the famous 
brothers Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm served as librarians. 

First of all, with " a Saxon's pious care," we provided for 
dinner, an important feature of a day's pleasure to a pair 
of escaped school-girls, and then we spent two happy hours 
in the picture-gallery on the Bellevue-strasse, opposite the 
Bellevue palace, where Napoleon's brother Jerome lived 
during the three years of his brief reign. The great Em- 
peror carved up old Germany about as he pleased ; and the 



A DAY IN CASSEL. 99 

Kingdom of Westphalia, whicli he gave to his brother, 
included not only Westphalia proper, but also Hesse and 
Hanover. The Napoleonic dominion in Germany was not 
protracted, but the modern Charlemagne gave to the Rhine 
provinces one boon, one memorial, that has been lasting. 
One-fifth of the present population of Germany lives under 
the Code Napoleon. 

In the early part of the eighteenth century William 
VIH,, Landgrave of Hesse, was Governor of Friesland, 
and began that collection of Dutch and Flemish pictures 
which has made the Cassel gallery famous. In the gal- 
lery of this small German city are found, besides good 
examples of Ruysdael, Snyders, Paul Potter, Ostade, and 
Gerard Douy, seven portraits by Frans Hals, ten fine speci- 
mens each of the pencils of Rubens and Jordaens, ten 
excellent pictures by Teniers, and, to crown all, twenty- 
three Wouvermans, thirteen Van Dycks, and twenty-one 
Rembrandts. 

I was never so much charmed before with the work of 
Wouverman, who painted as delicately almost as Meisso- 
nier, and with far more feeling. Frans Hals's " Singing 
Boys " is a work of great charm, and here are some of the 
most famous of Rembrandt's portraits, — among them that 
of his father, that of the writing-master Coppenol, of 4;he 
poet Jan Krul, and the striking face of the old man with 
a gold chain. Here also we see several of Rembrandt's 
autobiographic portraits. These are among the most inter- 
esting memorials of the Dutch master. Were they all 
gathered together, they would show him in almost every 
dress and character and with every expression. There 
are the odd and sumptuous costumes, the leonine mane, 
the fierce moustache, and the bold and penetrating eye of 
earlier years ; and then, at a later period, under sombre 
velvet and within his tufts of thin white hair there are 
many traces, not of feebleness, but of the sorrow and dis- 
appointment of one who had lost the brightness of his 
home in the death of the beloved Saskia, who had seen 



100 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

his fortune swept away, and who had found the drift of the 
times more and more adverse to the spirit and method of 
his art. But the supreme pictures are " Saskia," decked 
out in every splendor which her lord's brush could com- 
mand, and the marvellous and fascinating " Jacob blessing 
the Children of Joseph." 

Perhaps there is nothing in all art fuller of deep human 
interest than this last-named picture, one of the chief land- 
marks in the artist's development. The dying Jacob, half 
risen from his bed, supported by cushions, his venerable 
face covered by a long white beard, is stretching his arm 
toward the two sons of Joseph and his wife Asenath. The 
wife stands with clasped hands, and Joseph is seeking to 
direct his father's benediction to the head of his first-born 
son, Manasseh, a black-haired, curious, and irreverent boy ; 
but the patriarch gives the first blessing to Ephraim, the 
younger son, who receives it in a beautiful spirit of meek- 
ness, with bowed head and hands folded on his breast — 
Ephraim, who was to be a "fruitful branch," a "multitude 
of nations," whose blessings were to extend to the " utmost 
bound of the everlasting hills." Does not Jacob think 
of that other deathbed scene one hundred years before, 
when he, the younger son, wrested from Esau the benedic- 
tion of Isaac? 

The head of the dying prophet, painted with that love 
with which Rembrandt has glorified the wrinkled beauty 
of old age, is illumined by light from behind, which leaves 
the face in shadow. He has thrown into this work not 
only the poetry of tones and half-tones of inexpressible 
fineness, but also the charm of a deathless human interest 
which commends this canvas to the mind of every genera- 
tion, like the sculptures of the Parthenon and the stories 
of the Bible. Rembrandt is rightly considered the great- 
est genius in art which the non-Latin or Gothic races have 
given to the world. I hope that in 1907, the three hun- 
dredth anniversary of his birth, Holland will arrange for a 
loan exhibition of all the works of her greatest master 



A DAY IN CASS EL. lOI 

which may be gathered from the galleries of Great Britain, 
Germany, France, Russia, and America. 

Leaving the realms of high art, we entered the cheerful 
domain of the hotel dining-room, and then boarded the 
steam tram for the chief of all the attractions of Cassel, — 
the great park, a few miles out, called the Wilhelmshohe, 
formerly the residence in summer-time of the proud and 
pompous electors of Hessen. The shaded avenue along 
which the road leads us to the spacious palace and beauti- 
ful grounds of the great hilly park is bordered by hundreds 
of fine and noble houses, with that shaded, secluded, aris- 
tocratic, and yet very comfortable appearance which the 
well-to-do Germans so successfully give to their homes. 

A ten minutes' walk from the terminus of the tramway 
takes us through lines of stately beeches, oaks, larches, 
and limes to the Schloss, a sumptuous semicircular palace, 
which is now occupied by the family of Kaiser Wilhelm II., 
and which was the temporary residence of the Emperor 
of the French, Napoleon III., after the dismal collapse of 
his empire at Sedan. 

From the broad greensward in front of the Schloss the 
stately park, with its glorious trees and numberless cascades 
and geyser-like fountains, sweeps broadly upward to pic- 
turesque and wooded heights for nearly one thousand feet. 
And directly in line with the Schloss and the wooded way 
to the city is probably the longest and largest artificial cas- 
cade in the world, — a colossal piece of rockwork, climbing 
between tall, slim, dense fir-trees to an immense octagonal 
structure, the Giants' Castle, on the tower of which stands 
a gigantic bronze figure of the Farnese Hercules, so large 
that eight persons may stand inside his heroic club. Within 
the park is a fountain of equal strength with some of the 
most famous geysers of the Yellowstone, sending up for two 
hundred feet a stream of water a foot in thickness. Be- 
sides the cascades, which are allowed to descend from this 
great octagonal tower only on Sundays, is the new water- 
fall. There are also other cascades, for this is the paradise 



i02 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

of the water spirits. As we were climbing toward the Giant's 
Castle a musical, thunderous noise suddenly greeted us. 
One of the cascades had been set in motion. It soon filled 
the basin at the foot of it, and in five minutes a second 
cascade tumbled into another basin. The visitors followed 
this moving spectacle downward until the lessening volume 
was carried over an aqueduct supported by a dozen great 
arches, and finally down the rocks, which the daily baptism 
of water, lasting an hour, transformed into such an Eden 
of ferns and other greenery as one rarely sees. 

You must drive for several hours in Wilhelmshohe to 
reach all the chief points of interest. But my heroic com- 
panions determined on one great climb to the club of Her- 
cules. The ascent of St. Paul's, St. Peter's, or the Cologne 
Cathedral is a childish feat compared with this ; but we made 
it, and our eyes took in one of the finest prospects of the 
Fatherland. Right below us was the cascade, whose eight 
hundred and thirty-four steps we had climbed. Below that 
were the steep paths which lead to the foot of the water- 
fall. Then came the Schloss, home of the Electors, the im- 
prisoned Emperor, and now of the Kaiserin and her merry 
boys. Beyond lay embowered in trees the proud old city 
of Cassel, and farther still were great leagues of brilliant 
green, on whose pastures and wheat-fields rested broad 
squares of summer sunshine. As during the days of his 
imprisonment, Napoleon III. looked out of the windows of 
yonder Schloss and up toward the heights on which we 
stood, all this beauty was doubtless a weariness to his 
spirit. He may have thought of the gardens and foun- 
tains of the Tuileries and of the broader but less picturesque 
glories of Versailles, and he doubtless felt keenly his per- 
petual foredoomed exclusion from France. 

But what do we know of an exiled emperor's dream ? 
This park and palace come closer to Americans than any 
thoughts of Napoleon can bring them to us. We may 
rightly say that these costly splendors were given to the 
world by the heroism of our revolutionary sires. Great 



THE FOURTH OF JULY. 103 

Britain could not conquer our fathers, and she called in the 
aid of Hessian mercenaries. And the millions which the 
Elector received for the services of his soldiers he lavished 
on the great palace and these fair and wonderful grounds. 
So we took leave of Hercules and the Hessians, of VVilhelms- 
hohe and Napoleon, with grateful thoughts of those who 
fought at Bunker Hill and Yorktown and made the 
Declaration of Independence the Magna Charta of freedom 
and the death-warrant of despotism on both sides of the 
Atlantic. 

The Declaration of Independence reminds me of the 
demonstration of pure, patriotic loyalty and pride that the 
Americans in Gottingen have given this year, in the cele- 
bration of the Fourth of July. We felt it to be our duty 
and our high honor to uphold the banner, although we 
were not allowed to fling the flag to the breeze until we 
got outside the gates of the town. The village of Bremke 
has for several years been the favorite Fourth of July resort 
of the American Colony, and it was chosen this year by 
Mr. Edward Fitch, — now Dr. Fitch, for he has re- 
cently taken his Ph. D., — the amiable Patriarch of the 
American contingent here. 

The committees appointed to make arrangements for 
the celebration, and to provide a generous American spread 
for nearly one hundred hungry souls who were eager for an 
American taste in the banquet, worked with a diligence and 
zeal worthy of so good and great a cause. They reminded 
me of the spirit in which, during the war, our women 
labored for the comfort of the boys in blue. The skies did 
not smile upon us in the morning. We could not say, in 
the words of Emerson's Fourth of July ode, — 

" Oh, tenderly the haughty day 

Fills his blue urn with fire ; 
One morn is in the mighty heaven, 

And one in our desire." 

But the afternoon beamed upon us, although the tempera- 
ture made sealskin sacks and winter overcoats articles of 



104 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

comfort. A fine delegation of Americans from Hanover, 
where the American Colony is mostly English, rode up to 
join our patriotic ranks, and one fervent youth came from 
Berlin. 

The eight barges and carriages which were to transport 
us to Bremker Thai assembled at the Geismar gate for the 
start. One of the barracks of the German soldiers is here, 
and, as we were now outside the town, up went the banner 
of the American Colony and a dozen other silken and starry 
flags. The Kaiser's soldiers paused in their drill to gaze 
at the strange spectacle. The workmen and the small boys 
gathered around us, and the singing and cheering from this 
company of chemists, doctors, theologians, physicists, 
philologists, and philosophers — hailing from a dozen dif- 
ferent institutions and as many States, but now simply 
Americans — became so tumultuous that doubtless some 
of the townspeople thought that we were starting for the 
neighboring insane asylum. But one German who had 
been eleven years in America was wild with joy to see the 
old flag again and to hear us sing " Shouting the Battle-Cry 
of Freedom." 

About half-past two o'clock the bannered procession 
moved out, and the patriotic singing, in which the women 
joined as heartily as did the rest, scarcely ceased during the 
ten miles' drive through several villages, one of which, 
Rheinhausen, is very picturesque. The carriages were 
plentifully provided with fire-crackers, which were dropped 
in the road, and kept up a rather unsatisfactory fusillade, 
for the reason that many of them would not go off". It was 
the general impression that most of the bunches, which here 
cost five times what they do at home, were brought back 
from America by the Hessian soldiers who had been hired 
to put down the Declaration of Independence. But what 
was lacking in the crackers was made up by pistols, horns, 
and stentorian human lungs. Peasants and villagers, staring 
good-naturedly at the cavalcade, were greeted with the un- 
intelligible inquiry, " Are you Democrats or Republicans? " 



THE FOURTH OF JULY. 105 

Why are Americans so patriotic abroad? I answer by 
saying that not all of them are, although the educated ones 
are apt to be so. Unfortunately, some Americans come to 
Europe too young, and, worse still, others are trained under 
semi-European influences at home. Besides this, the old 
parable of the sower explains most of the phenomena of 
human life. There are those who in their natures " have 
no deepness of earth," and the blighting sun of the English 
newspapers withers speedily the Americanism of a few 
of our people who are ignorant of the real meaning of our 
country. Lacking profound convictions, knowing but little 
of the higher life of the great Republic, listening to the 
detractions and the contemptuous tone with which a genuine 
Americanism is treated by the English papers, — they have 
nothing with which to withstand the influences besetting 
them. But with sturdier natures these influences work 
precisely in the other way. 

The general ignorance here about America, except among 
the few, is profound. English girls in German schools 
usually rank America with Africa and Australia. The 
commonplaces in regard to our great men, our wealth, 
history, population, chief cities, and institutions, are unfami- 
liar to many, although I have been recently surprised that 
two humble German servants knew the geographical fact 
that the water-surface in the United States is equal to the 
area of the whole German Empire. American boys in school 
here are told by their school-fellows, " You 're Americans ! " 
meaning thereby to insult them. I know one boy, however, 
who was proud of the insult ; and when he was told, " You 
have no army in America," he astonished his critics by in- 
forming them that the United States soldiers in our Civil 
War numbered over two million six hundred thousand. He 
told them that this number did not include the soldiers in 
the Confederate army, and that our population then was 
less than fifty million. But the recent triumphs of the 
American athletes in Athens have impressed these German 
boys even more than did the vast armies of the Civil War. 



I06 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

There is a good deal of misinformation about America 
prevailing in Europe. A German student said to a mem- 
ber of the American colony, " I understand that in your 
country only Republicans celebrate the Fourth of July." 
But one thing American does make its impression here, I 
mean our popular tunes. Walking with my daughters and 
meeting university students, they have from time to time 
conveyed to us the information that they knew our nation- 
ahty by whisthng "Daisy Bell," "The Bowery," " Sweet 
Marie," and " After the Ball." 

The Bremke valley is exceedingly lovely. Passing from 
fields where we saw miUions of red poppies, white daisies, 
and blue corn-flowers, and rejoicing that our national colors 
were sprinkled so bountifully over these old plains of Ger- 
many, we entered the long, narrow valley where the road 
— a part of the way — is hewn through the rock, and 
where the wooded heights on either side tempt the feet of 
climbers. Where the vale is somewhat wider the small vil- 
lage of Bremke lies in peaceful isolation. 

Here were the hall and the Gasthaus, that received us. 
Here was the picturesque amphitheatre, where a game of 
American base-ball was soon organized and under way, and 
where the side led by a son of an eminent Professor of 
Therapeutics in Philadelphia, and assisted by various base- 
men and fielders from several American colleges, knocked 
out a game of nine to eight over an equally eminent body 
of students representing most sections of the great Republic. 
Here the colony got itself together and was photographed 
by one of its own members, — formerly an instructor in the 
Massachusetts Institute of Technology. And here was a 
well-enclosed yard, covered with greensward, where boys 
of all ages began to set off their noisy fireworks. The Ger- 
man Kanonenschlager, or cannon-crackers, have a detonat- 
ing power which would delight the soul of any youthful 
patriot dwelling in America. 

The tables at which the hungry hearts of men and 
women were to be satisfied were spread by American 



THE FO UR TH OF JUL Y. 10/ 

fingers fair and strong, the men faithfully assisting, and 
about seven o'clock the American colony sat down to a di- 
vine feast. At the close of it the Patriarch, who is the 
fifty-fifth in the succession, read a letter of greeting from a 
club in Philadelphia, seventeen gentlemen, our predecessors 
here, who, as George Canning sung, thought 

" Of those companions true, 
Who studied with them at the U — 
— niversity of Gottingen — 
— niversity of Gottingen ! " 

Then Dr. Fitch, who is soon to return, resigned the 
patriarchate into the hands of Mr. Ruete, the next oldest 
among resident American students, and he introduced me as 
the orator of the evening. I told them the story of the 
deaf old gentleman who went into an Episcopal church in 
New York, and was seated rather far from the lectern, 
which was a brazen eagle upholding the volume of the 
Scriptures. Beckoning to an usher, he said, " Please take 
me a little nearer to the fowl ! " I endeavored to strike 
the patriotic chord and to bring my friends a little closer 
to the American eagle, that bird which is growing more 
humane and less rapacious, but which has of late been 
righteously impatient with the Spanish vulture, preying 
pitilessly on the fair island of Cuba, I expressed the 
hope that this eagle might one day spread his wings over 
the whole North American continent, and I am sure that 
fifty years from now the feature of the St. Louis platform 
which will seem then most significant and prophetic is the 
now almost unheeded declaration in favor of the union, 
under one government, of the English-speaking peoples 
of America. 

I think that one step toward the Americanizing of the 
New World will be the destruction of Spanish domination 
in Cuba. Everybody in Germany favors the Spanish side 
of the present contention, but if, unfortunately, the peace 
shall ever be broken between the American Republic and 
the Spanish Monarchy, the issue will probably recall to 



I08 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

some of us the story of what occurred a few years after the 
Civil War to some American sailors on the coast of Mexico. 
These sailors were marines belonging to a ship in our 
navy. They amused themselves and lost their money in 
cock-fights with the Mexicans. The birds on which they 
wagered were invariably defeated. At last they said they 
would send for a genuine American rooster, which was to 
be obtained in a few weeks. There was on board their 
ship an eagle, whose wings had been clipped. The marines 
pulled out his tail feathers, tied on a rooster's tail, manu- 
factured a comb, and gave what was left a suitable coat of 
paint. For four days before the fight they starved the 
eagle until he was fiercer than any hungry aquiline bird in 
the mountains; Great stakes were set up on the coming 
contest. The Mexicans scoured the country for the bravest 
fighting cock to be had. They were somewhat surprised at 
the strange- looking, wobbling creature which was brought 
out as the Yankee cock, and felt sure of an easy victory. 
The marines assured them that that was the way a genuine 
American rooster always looked ! When the Mexican 
cock appeared and his eagleship caught sight of him, the 
sailors could hardly hold him. When the signal was given, 
the American bird went like lightning for his prey, and, 
with one stroke of his terrible beak, he ripped open the 
Mexican bird from end to end. The American marines re- 
gained more than all that they had lost, and, even to this 
day, the Mexicans are said to retain an exalted opinion of 
the American fighting cock. 

But my oration was not conceived in any aggressive 
spirit, but, fully recognizing and appreciating the worth and 
many-sided glories of other great nationalities, I endeavored 
to set forth the peculiar and divine significance of America's 
present and future. It is certainly the duty of educated 
Americans to resist every influence which would degrade or 
belittle the Republic, to contribute to every higher element 
of the national life, and, above all, not to despair of our 
country. 



THE FOURTH OF JULY. 109 

After the banquet there came the dancing and the fire- 
works, both of which are thought to have Hfted the Ameri- 
can spirit still higher. In the midst of the festivities there 
appeared the pale face of a popular young Englishman, the 
son of Professor Lockyer, the great astronomer. He is an 
adopted member of the American colony, and usually joins 
in their patriotic celebrations. But this Fourth of July was 
set apart for his " Ph. D." examination. If he passed he 
was to make his appearance among the joyful Americans, 
and when they caught sight of him the dancing instantly 
ceased, and all rushed forward to give him their hearty con- 
gratulations. In the republic of letters, as in the kingdom 
of heaven, there are no national divisions. 



CHAPTER IX. 

IN THE HARTZ MOUNTAINS. 

'T'HE peculiar charm of the Hartz, as it seems to me, is 
in the perpetual blending of historic and legendary 
interest with natural beauty. If one has seen much of 
mountain scenery and looked at these works of God with 
reverent and loving eyes, he will not be contemptuous of 
the Hartz because they are surpassed by the Alps, nor of the 
Highlands of Scotland because they are overtopped by the 
Rockies. And in these German heights which seem very 
small, not only to one who measures them by the glories of 
Switzerland, but also to him who is fresh from the White 
Hills of New Hampshire, sympathetic souls will discover 
and feel the pleasures of spiritual company as rare and 
radiant as men often enjoy. The Brocken — " Brocken's 
sovran height," as Coleridge calls it — rises about thirty- 
four hundred feet. This is slightly lower than Greylock 
in the Berkshire Hills, but from the lower mountain 
here one looks "over field, forest, and city and spire and 
mist-tracked stream of the wide, wide German land " 
— from Hanover, Brunswick, and Magdeburg, to Leipsic, 
Gotha, Erfurt, and Cassel — that is, if he has escaped the 
experience of those who, as the English say, have " missed 
the view and viewed the mist." And in this hilly domain 
the traveller has looked down on the homes of more fairies 
than ever flocked to the Alps, the Andes, or the Himalayas. 
The gnomes and witches have rarely been partial to the 
highest mountains. They love to make their homes nearer 
to the common abodes of men. 



IN THE HARTZ MOUNTAINS. \\\ 

But our gratitude goes forth, not merely to the elves and 
to their friends the poets, but also to the " Hartz Club," 
which has mapped out this whole region of over one thou- 
sand square miles, posted innumerable guide-boards, built 
picturesque shelters, and made convenient platforms and 
resting-places where one may drink in the beauties of many 
a valley while he listens to the most delicious music that 
man ever hears, — a blending of the whispering of the pines 
with the tinkling of distant herd-bells and the delicate mur- 
mur of the falling rivulet. We may not be in love with 
paternal government in all its manifestations, but we should 
be thankful for good roads and footpaths, and especially for 
the care which wise, economical old Germany takes of her 
forest lands. We looked on miles Oi straight and stalwart 
fir-trees that had been planted and were now 

" Warming their heads in the sun, 
Checkering the grass with their shade," 

because savagery does not reign here in the treatment of 
forests, as it appears to rule over wide tracts of once equally 
noble woods in northern Michigan and Wisconsin. We saw 
thousands of tiny trees planted where the old firs had been 
removed ; and thus in this and other ways the mountains 
bewitched us " by the glamour of the human past," even as 
"the green pastures and golden slopes of England," as 
Lowell has said, " are sweeter both to the outward and to 
the inward eye that the hand of man has immemorially 
cared for and caressed them." 

" Far over Elfland poets stretch their sway," little dream- 
ing, many of them, how wide and sweet and perennial their 
dominion often is. A new charm hovers over the Highlands 
of Scotland since the Wizard of the North furnished his 
rhymed itinerary in the " Lady of the Lake," and it is 
reported that a mention of any place by Sir Walter has 
added substantial value to the adjacent Scottish acres. 
Men journeying to the Hebrides think of old Sam John- 
son's famous tour ; and those who follow the Appian Way to 



112 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Brundusium sometimes drink grateful bumpers to the mem- 
ory of Horace. The Adirondacks have gained a new human 
interest to many of us since Emerson pitched his philoso- 
phers' camp amid those " centurial shadows, cloisters of the 
elk." And the Hartz region proudly claims the impalpable 
treasure of five nineteenth-century poets, — Goethe, Words- 
worth, Coleridge, Heine, and Matthew Arnold, — while also 
bathed in a weird light from legends old as the times of the 
Saxon kaisers. I found the city of Goslar, at the foot of the 
Rammelsberg, — -a favorite residence of the German em- 
perors in the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth centuries, — so 
interesting as to absorb two golden days and two small 
golden pieces. I left Gottingen late in the afternoon, 
driven out of the town by the entreaties of my family, and 
not, as Heine was, by his weary disgust with the university 
life and his longings to escape from the " black coats and 
silken stockings " to the mountain heights, where the "dark 
fir-trees tower and the brooks roar, the birds are singing and 
the proud clouds are hunting." My closest companion 
during these days was a young professor of Greek from the 
Northwestern University, who had spent four years at Johns 
Hopkins and had recently returned from a tour in Greece 
with Professor Gildersleeve. For his classical learning I 
might almost call him a youthful Scaliger, and for his west- 
ern wit and humor a Dick Oglesby. We followed Heine 
through Weende, Bovenden, Norten, and Nordheim, not on 
foot, however ; the train was quicker and more convenient, 
and our walking and climbing were to come later, when the 
scenery grew more picturesque. But even on the train I 
could not get rid of Heine, and in imagination I saw him 
strolling in the bright morning air along the Chaussee, joyful 
over his release from the thraldom of the Corpus Juris and his 
other legal studies, and encountering at Bovenden the much- 
satirized university " Pedell," or policeman, whose business 
was to prevent students from duelling and to see that no new 
ideas, which must always halt for several decades before the 
Gottingen quarantine, were smuggled in by any speculative 



IN THE HARTZ MOUNTAINS. II3 

Privat Decent ! What unexpected back-blows he was always 
striking, as when, describing the coming and going of the 
student generations at the university, where one semester 
wave follows another, he adds that only the old professors 
remain, undisturbed, like the pyramids of Egypt, except 
that in these university pyramids no wisdom is hidden 
away ! 

After reaching Nordheim we let Heine go on alone to 
Osterode and Clausthal and to the mines, — go on alone, and 
yet accompanied with visions that have made us all the 
richer. His wit and his poetry even Germany is coming to 
appreciate, but poor Heine is allowed no statue in the Father- 
land. The Germany of his day was bruised and bhnded 
and blundering, and yet groped after that deliverance and 
imperial rehabihtation which have since come. And Heine 
was irreverent and merciless in his satire of the Germany 
which he seems to have only half loved. Then he wor- 
shipped Napoleon, and he died in Paris ; and over the grave 
of the expatriated poet in Montmartre the " Heinrich " of 
his name is changed to " Henri." 

We made the two hours' trip to Goslar with only one 
change. On our return to Gottingen from Ilsenburg, a little 
longer journey, the German government carried us on five 
different trains. There seemed to be on the average from 
fifteen to twenty railroad officials at each of the stations 
where we stopped. The Empire deems it best to provide 
employment for the greatest possible number of its subjects. 
At Goslar, beautifully situated at the feet of several of the 
Hartz mountains, we felt ourselves, on alighting from the 
train, in the presence of old imperial Germany ; for right 
before us was one of the ancient and mighty towers 
strengthening the wall, which has now nearly disappeared,- 
a tower which has been transformed into part of a hotel. 
Walking through the narrow streets, which we found greatly 
improved since Heine's day, and not as " jagged as a Ber- 
lin hexameter," we noted the many decorated and ancient 
houses and the two-towered Romanesque churches which 



114 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

recalled the former magnificence, when more than fifty spires 
sprung up within the imperial town. As we neared the old 
market, we met two American friends who had expected us, 
one of whom had made the whole journey thus far literally 
in Heine's footsteps. With me the pleasure of the Hartz 
journey was largely due to good companions. 

At the Romischer Kaiser on the old market we found our 
lodgings. The name of the inn is enough to cast a historic 
spell over an imaginative spirit. The German emperors, 
ten of whom inhabited the imperial palace in Goslar, 
were at the head of the Holy Roman Empire, that empire 
whose relics the great Napoleon blew to the winds. And 
what a stretch it gives to the fancy to remember that this 
empire, which had such a varied history, long hnked in 
friendly or hostile relations with the Roman ecclesiastical 
pontiffs, an empire in whose majestic line are such names 
as Charles V., Maximilian I,, Frederick Barbarossa, Charle- 
magne, Justinian, Theodosius, Constantine, Marcus Aure- 
lius, Hadrian, — that this empire which died only in our own 
century and has been succeeded by something worthier and 
grander, giving to the German Fatherland a genuine unity 
and separating it from fierce and ambitious struggles with 
the popes beyond the Alps, was, as Professor Bryce has 
written, " the same which the crafty nephew of Julius had 
won for himself against the powers of the East beneath the 
cliffs of Actium." 

During our first night at the Romischer Kaiser, one of 
the party, oppressed with too much history or too much 
supper, was seized with a nightmare, and his screams ter- 
rorized his neighbors. A room-mate declared that he prob- 
ably dreamed that he had voted for Bryan. But the 
dreamer was relieved from this imputation when the morn- 
ing mail brought him a pleasant letter from Major McKinley. 
America does find its way even to this quiet old town, with 
its fifteen thousand inhabitants, which few of my country- 
men ever see. On the hotel register of last year we found 
the names of three Philadelphians who signed themselves 



IN THE HARTZ MOUNTAINS. II5 

" Coxeyites." Is there a German professor living who 
could explain that name? At table-d'hote one of my 
friends, a professor of Germanics, was drawn into a tem- 
perate discussion of America by the remarks of a middle- 
aged German gentleman, who expressed the opinion that 
our people were lacking in culture. He learned, however, 
that in the opinion of his table companion, who has visited 
Germany seven times, and who appreciates the learning, 
literature, order, and municipal decency of the Fatherland, 
Americans do not find themselves awed or overwhelmed by 
the superior civilization of this empire. On the contrary, 
in what makes for general enhghtenment and social prog- 
ress, and in all the comforts and conveniences of life, 
America is far in advance. To well-to-do Americans, living 
here seems rather primitive, though perhaps not so much 
so as in England. It was pleasant to hear these facts 
stated in fine German. To talk American politics in this 
difficult language appeared to me a noble accomplishment, 
and it was almost as interesting as the experience of an 
American girl who received a proposal from a German 
student, and, while she kindly refused him, carried on a 
delicate and complicated conversation, remembering all 
the time her genders, prepositions, endings, and separable 
verbs. 

The sights of Goslar may well hold the attention of those 
who love the picturesque and the old. One of the most 
curious houses, if not one of the most ancient, is the Brust- 
tuch, now a place of entertainment, built as a gentleman's 
residence early in the sixteenth century, and adorned with 
the most elaborate and humorous wood-carvings that I have 
seen on a house in Germany, representing monks, eagles, 
devils, apes, witches, and Greek divinities. The old mar- 
ket and Rathhaus drew our attention on the very first stroll. 
The huge copper water-basin in the centre of the market is 
familiar to all the readers of Heine. He reports the legend 
that the devil brought this gift to the town in the night- 
time in some unknown antiquity. " Then the people were 



Il6 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

stupid, and the devil was also stupid, and they exchanged 
gifts." In the Rathhaus we saw a fine collection of old 
books, charters, thumb-screws, and other instruments of 
torture, and also a wooden cage called the Beisskatze, where 
shrews were formerly imprisoned. Do not the feminine 
biting-cats of to-day meet much more lenient treatment? 
Beyond the Rathhaus are the towers of the Marktkirche, 
where on Sunday morning we, with one hundred soldiers, 
fifty men, and five hundred women, heard a loud and 
earnest evangehc sermon from a minister whose face, beard, 
black robe, and great white ruff made him look like a por- 
trait of Governor John Winthrop of Massachusetts. We 
noted with much interest the Guild House on the left of 
the market, old as Columbus. It is now an inn. As we 
saw the statues of the eight German emperors which adorn 
it, we thought of Heine's irreverent remark that they looked 
hke roasted university " Pedells." 

Of course we visited what is left of the old cathedral, 
which was founded in the eleventh century and taken down 
early in the nineteenth. It is now an ecclesiastical mu- 
seum, where we saw, among other things, the horrible 
wooden crucifix of which Heine speaks, " whose proper 
place is in an anatomical lecture-room, rather than in the 
house of God." There, too, is a famous oblong reliquary 
of brass, supported by four squat figures and once adorned 
with precious stones. It was carried off to Paris in the 
Napoleonic wars, and when it was returned the jewels had 
mysteriously disappeared ! We walked along what is left 
of the old wall, and marked the mighty round towers which 
remain, one of which is now a restaurant, another a stable, 
another a fine residence, surrounded by gardens, and the 
fourth, as I have already said, part of a modern hotel. We 
saw the rather interesting Romanesque churches of the 
town ; we entered what remains of an old convent, full of 
antiquities, and now very appropriately a home for aged 
women. We took our refreshment in the Stadt Park, and 
noted there a remarkable sign in six lines, which records 



IN THE HARTZ MOUNTAINS. W] 

the present faith of Germany, or, at least, one indubitable 
article of her popular creed, showing that agnosticism is not 
universal. Rather literally translated, it reads as follows : 
" Whether I shall be alive on the morrow, I verily do not 
know. But if I am living on the morrow, I am altogether 
certain that I shall take another drink." 

Some of us late on a glorious afternoon climbed to the 
tower on the Steinberg, passing on the way the largest flock 
of goats we had ever seen ; and from the summit we gained 
a superb view of the compact, red and gray roofed little 
city, with such a long history. Beyond on the mountain 
sides we saw the debris of the famous silver and gold mines, 
which drew the emperors hither nearly a thousand years 
ago. The mines are still worked for these and other valu- 
able products. But the amounts uncovered, at least of the 
precious metals, are small, and the ratio of the silver to 
gold is about four hundred to one. 

But the crown of all interest in Goslar is the Kaiserhaus, 
the oldest historical secular building of Germany, recently 
restored. It was begun by the Emperor Henry III. before 
the Norman conquest ; and ten successive, and not always 
successful, kaisers lived here. In this palace was born 
Henry IV., whose checkered career is one of the chief ro- 
mances of German history. It was he who stood in the 
snows of Canossa, and who afterward banished the refrac- 
tory pontiff. It was he who was imprisoned by his son at 
Bingen on the Rhine, and who, on his deathbed, sent word 
to his heir : " Thine inheritance is but small, for thou hast 
left me nothing." And here was seen the form of Fred- 
erick Barbarossa, who for thirty-eight years lorded it over 
the German Empire, from the borders of Denmark to the 
banks of the Po. It was he who, having fought bravely in 
his youth in the Holy Land, in his old age defeated the 
infidels at Iconium, and died near Tarsus without seeing 
the Holy City. His gigantic equestrian statue, with that 
of the Emperor VViUiam I., will soon stand before the 
Kaiserhaus. 



Il8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. '■ 

The main attraction of this impressive building is the 
great hall, where we saw not only the famous old Kaiser- 
stuhl, but also the magnificent historical paintings which 
decorate its walls. The chief among these is the allegori- 
cal representation of the resurrection of the empire. The 
first, however, in the series is the legend of the Sleeping 
Beauty, and the last is the awakening of Barbarossa out of 
his magic slumber in the subterranean heart of the moun- 
tain. It was the national tradition, of which more than 
one poet has sung, that Barbarossa did not die, but that, 
plunged into sleep beneath Mount Kyffhauser, he would 
yet reappear and bring back a day of golden glory to the 
German nation. The legend has proved to be history. 
The brazen doors have opened, and Barbarossa's true suc- 
cessor, girded by his loyal knights, is crowned amid up- 
lifted and flashing swords, — if not in Aix, according to the 
prophecy, at Versailles, where the foundations of the Holy 
German Empire were laid anew. Had Heine lived in our 
time, perhaps he would have been a patriot. 

From Goslar we sent most of our baggage by packet- 
post back to Gottingen, and set off late one perfect after- 
noon on the beginning of our tramp together. Fine were 
the views we gained of the old imperial town, as we 
climbed the slopes east of it. Probably no man ever 
had more cheerful and congenial companions in a moun- 
tain trip than were mine in the walk from Goslar to Harz- 
burg, and from Harzburg the next day to the top of the 
Brocken and down the beautiful valley of the Use to 
Ilsenburg. The Bodethal, which I have not seen, is 
usually regarded as the finest and most striking feature 
of the Hartz mountains, but parts of the Okerthal, which 
we did see, were wild and picturesque enough as we 
looked down from the lofty road through openings in the 
forest. 

Heine says that nature, like a poet, knows how to pro- 
duce the greatest effects with the smallest means. These 
are only sun, trees, flowers, water, and love. "And, truly, 



IN THE HARTZ MOUNTAINS. 119 

if the last is lacking in the heart of the spectator," he goes 
on to say, " everything is spoiled ; the sun is only a body 
so many miles in diameter, the trees are good for fire- 
wood, the flowers are classified according to their stamens, 
and the water is wet." One of the curious things which 
we noticed in our conversation was this, that Heine so 
often quoted from us ! Many a little village, with its red 
roofs peeping out of the surrounding green of the fir forests, 
appeared to us like a moss rose ; but Heine had seen the 
same picture and used the same language, and the musical 
bells, sounding up from far-away paths and from invisible 
herds, that delighted us, are tinkling all through the 
Harzreise. 

Coming down to the level of the Chauss^e that leads from 
Oker to Harzburg, we refreshed ourselves, with a large 
company of fellow mortals, at one of those convenient 
places, half hotel and half garden, where the German 
seems to, be able to get more contentment and happiness 
out of a few pfennigs than many of our rich American 
families at Saratoga and Newport extract from fabulous 
fortunes. The Chauss^e which I have just mentioned is a 
glorious track for the wheelmen, but we made our way to 
Harzburg by another road, either on foot or, as one of ray 
companions became foot-sore, by a convenient carriage. 
The night was spent at the Zur Linde, a very modest 
hotel, which for more than a hundred years has belonged 
to the same family. 

We were out of bed, through breakfast, and on the road 
by seven o'clock the next morning, with bodies " rested by 
slumber and hearts freshened and light," for the climb 

" Up through the tall dark firs, 
Up by the stream with its huge 
Moss-hung boulders and thin 
Musical water, half hid, 
Up o'er the rock-strewn slope," 

not to Heine's stone-roofed hut at the top of the Brocken, 
— that is now gone, — but to a rather spacious caravansary. 



120 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

where nearly five hundred souls were that day to enjoy 
good dinners and fine, far views. 

With our light luggage strapped upon our backs or held 
in our hands, we made our way out of the long straggling 
town with its numerous hotels and attractive villas, a town 
whose suburbs reminded us somewhat of the play-grounds 
at Saratoga. Above us rose the fine Burgberg, where once 
stood a castle of Henry IV., and where now stands, in 
honor of Bismarck, a white obelisk on which are the 
words which the chancellor uttered in the German par- 
liament twenty-four years ago : " We will not go to 
Canossa." 

It is a four hours' climb to the summit of the Brocken 
from Harzburg, but we gave ourselves five and a half hours 
in which to make it, and even then we beat some English 
people who started ahead of us. The leisure gave us op- 
portunities of enjoying here and there views of valley or 
village or wide, sunny fields dashed with cloud shadows, 
— views really more beautiful than is the huge pano- 
rama which one gets from the tall stone tower on the 
summit. 

But our progress upward, to tell the whole truth, was 
somewhat delayed by the frequent fierce battles between 
the philologists of our party, Professors Hatfield and Scott, 
men who are able to trace the "panting syllable " through 
German, Greek, and Sanscrit hiding-places back to Noah's 
ark. One sad result of these wordy strifes was a growing 
disposition to play with language. I try hard to forget 
that even the flowers served ignoble uses. We saw the 
sides of the hills covered with the red bells of the digitalis, 
so useful in stimulating the action of the human heart. 
Think of any one daring to say, — 

" We have seen digitalis enough this morning to keep the 
Hartz beating forever ! " 

At Goslar our shoes had received a " shine " such as we 
had never before seen in Germany. We were grateful to 
the Romischer Kaiser for this ; but why should one of 



IN THE HARTZ MOUNTAINS. 121 

my companions venture the explanation that some remnants 
of the old imperial polish were still left ? 

Even this, however, does not fully account for our slow 
climb. There are many wayside resorts on this famous 
path, and hunger summoned us to three more breakfasts 
before the morning was over. And who can forget or pass 
by the chocolate disgorgers (ten pfennigs in a slot) with 
which Germany is continually tempting the traveller? One 
learned member of our party, who sought this sweet food 
for himself, usually dropped his ten-pfennig piece in vain ; 
but the president of the club, who was buying chocolate for 
his absent children, was always successful. And finally the 
photographer, whom all parties now have with them, made 
us sit by some shining brook, or on the warm, sunny edge 
of the forest, while he captured his companions for future 
home consumption. One of the photographs and one of 
the breakfasts were taken near a cool wayside spring. We 
sat beneath a silken American flag, fastened to the limb of 
a fir-tree, and had much earnest talk of the fate of our dear 
Fatherland far, far away, and now passing through one of 
the great crises of its history. 

We saw no deer in our morning's climb and no Hartz 
canaries, but we passed a few foresters and not a few fellow- 
climbers toward the summit. Thankful that the day was a 
fine mixture of sunshine and shadow, we gave ourselves up 
to the simple pleasures of out-of-doors existence and exer- 
cise. The pure, bracing air, the blue heaven flecked with 
clouds, and the waving green sea of the forest gave us some 
of the delights which Heine enjoyed. I have rarely seen 
such noble beeches, alternating with the pine and fir forests, 
which here and there clasped their great roots around 
enormous boulders, or thrust them beneath these huge and 
mossy stones. A good part of the region through which we 
passed might be well described as the wooded area of the 
island of Mackinac, set on edge. 

But trees disappeared, and we at last reached the twenty 
acres or more of stony pasture which make the top of the 



122 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Brocken. There lay Ilsenburg at our feet, and farther 
away, Wernigerode and the lofty Schloss of the count of 
that name, to whom belongs this mountain, or at least the 
summit of it, whose crowded hotel yields him ample rev- 
enues. At Wernigerode, as well as on the Brocken, is a 
Witches' Dancing Place. We sat down, with a great 
number, to a table-d'hote dinner, in which nothing — least 
of all, appetite — was lacking. After this repast two of us 
climbed upon the Devil's Pulpit, composed of several huge 
blocks of granite, which mark the meeting-place of the 
witches who assemble here on the evening of May day. 
This evening is called Walpurgis night. Walpurgis, the 
female saint of German legend, is believed to have led the 
Saxons to embrace Christianity ; and on the evening of her 
festival the witches keep Sabbath on the Brocken height, 
dancing wildly and making weird music on the ribs of the 
old crag. It is to this spot that Mephistopheles, in Goethe's 
drama, transports Faust in the night-time to witness strange 
and awful scenes. The fires rising from the mines in the hills 
around illuminate the palace of Mammon gloriously, and 
then the tempest crashes through the forest and the trunks 
are shattered. The owls fly out in affright when the col- 
umns of the evergreen castles of the hills are split, and the 
crags are shaken and voices neither of fountains nor of 
midnight wolves break upon his startled ear. 

" Dost thou not hear ? 

Strange accents are ringing 
Aloft, afar, anear ; 

The witches are singing ! 
The torrent of a raging wizard's song 
Streams the whole mountain along." 

We saw and heard no witches, perhaps because we did 
not remain until darkness covered the summit. After rest- 
ing two or three hours, we walked down the mountain by 
another path, through the beautiful Ilsenthal to Ilsenburg, 
where the party divided. But the finest part of our outing 
was the walk through the Ilsenthal. Before reaching it, we 



IN THE HARTZ MOUNTAINS. 1 23 

had plunged down a very rough path and had come in 
sight of some remarkable natural formations, which to our 
stalwart young Greek looked like massive cyclopean walls. 
The valley of the Use is a pleasant haunt for the fairies, 
who love its forest shades, its picturesque waterfalls, and its 
huge moss-covered stones. Our tramp led us for several 
miles along the legend-haunted brook, and the scene at 
times was so beautiful that garrulousness was soothed into 
silence, — that deep, reverent silence whose peace and joy 
are not far from tears. Heine, pausing and peering down 
between the great stones into some glassy pool, felt that he 
could hear the heart-beat of the mountain. 

Many centuries have passed since the noble lover of the 
Princess Use was foully enchanted, and, according to one 
legend, the beautiful desolate maiden betook herself to this 
rushing mountain rivulet with which the poet's fancy now 
identiiies her, and within which she still awaits her beloved. 
At the foot of the valley we saw the splendid crag of Ilsen- 
stein, where once her palace stood, and where, as Heine 
sings, her heart yearns for love, wooing with words like 

these : — 

" With ever-flowing fountains 
I '11 cool thy weary brow ; 
Thou 'It lose amid the rippling 
The cares that grieve thee now. 
As round the Emperor Henry, 
My arms round thee shall fall ; 
I held his ears — he heard not 
The trumpet 's warning call." 

But the spell of all such enchantments and superstitions 
is broken by the huge iron cross surmounting the Ilsenstein, 
raised to the honor of German soldiers who fell in the 
Napoleonic wars. One of our company climbed five hun- 
dred feet to stand where this memorial gleamed before our 
eyes in the setting sun. And so I close these pictures of 
our Hartz journey, with a vision of the Use, gliding down 
" among oaks and beechen coverts and copse of hazels 
green," pouring her petulant and immortal youth in a thou- 



124 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

sand white water-jets that seem the counterpart of human 
hfe and gladness, while above the shining stream rises the 
shining crag with the cross, bold type of the divine love 
which, while transfiguring earth with a new beauty, lifts the 
thought and hope to unwasting spheres beyond. 



CHAPTER X. 

IN CLASSIC GERMANY — EISENACH. 

n^HE lecture-rooms are closed in Gottingen. The sum- 
mer semester is over. The students, amid much 
frolicking and beer-drinking, have left the town. The 
American Colony is dissolving ; some of its members with 
Doctors' degrees attained are off for America. Others are 
tramping in Switzerland, England, or the Hartz. 

I have left the quiet and studious shades of Gottingen for 
an eighteen days' ramble with three of my children through 
some of the chief historic towns and cities of Germany. 
Our trip is to include a visit to Eisenach, Weimar, Jena, 
Leipsic, Dresden, Wittenberg, Berlin, and Hanover, and I 
have purchased for this journey four Rundreise, or round- 
trip tickets, good for forty-five days, available on fast trains, 
and allowing us to stop over where we please. It may 
interest my readers to learn that the rates of travel on the 
German railways, which are owned and wisely conducted by 
the government, are for each kilometer travelled — and a 
kilometer is about three-fifths of a mile — two pfennigs for 
fourth-class, four pfennigs for third-class, six pfennigs for 
second-class, and eight pfennigs for first-class. A pfennig 
is about a quarter of a cent. I have come to have a feel- 
ing of great security on German railways, and I learn that 
this well-conducted system is very profitable to the Prussian 
government, yielding an annual net income of more than 
twenty million dollars. Availing themselves of these cheap 
rates, the Germans are coming to be great travellers in their 
own country, and this travel is an important element in the 



126 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

national culture and a very considerable force in fostering 
the national spirit. Rundreise tickets are twenty-iive per 
cent less than are the usual rates. 

The very slow train in which we crept for two hours 
towards Bebra gave us time to see every bundle of wheat 
which the women were harvesting in the golden fields, to 
admire every forest and hill and winding stream and moss- 
rose of a village which the bright day flashed in through the 
car-windows. After changing trains at Bebra we soon came 
in sight of the famous Thuringian forest, and then gained 
our first glimpse of the Wartburg, which for eight hundred 
and seventy years has crowned the noblest of Thuringian 
heights. Its founder, Lewis the Springer, who got his 
name from the bold leap which he made from the window 
of his prison, exclaimed, when he came in sight of this 
eminence, " This is Wart Berg, I will make it my Wart 
Burg ! " Our hearts gave a genuine German throb as we 
saw the two towers and long walls on this famous height, 
associated not only with the exploits of the old Landgraves, 
a race now extinct, men whose bands had fought with the 
Moslem in the Holy Land, but also with the strifes of the 
Minnesingers, with the Christly deeds of St. Elizabeth, and 
with the heroic solitude and prodigious toils of Martin 
Luther. 

The little city of Eisenach, with more than twenty thou- 
sand inhabitants, now belongs to the Grand Duke of Weimar, 
the venerable Carl Alexander, who has signalized his life by 
the restoration and adornment of the Wartburg. Among 
other claims to consideration, Eisenach is known as the 
birthplace of Sebastian Bach, whose bronze statue now 
stands in front of the Marktkirche. As we visited the house 
where this amazing genius was born, I could but remember 
the hours in which I had listened to his Passion music in 
America, and I felt that there was a spiritual connection 
between Luther's gift of the gospel to the German Father- 
land and the great music which the composer has wrought 
into the story of Redemption. 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 127 

We spent the night at the inn, which Hes snugly along- 
side of the famous Wartburg, looking down 

" Over the pleasant neighborhoods, 
Over the vast Thuringian woods, 
With flash of river and gloom of trees, 
With castles crowning the dizzy heights, 
And farms and pastoral delights, 
And the morning pouring everywhere 
Its golden glory on the air." 

I could imagine Luther, as he climbed this noble hill and 
laid his hand on its granite sides, and finally found himself 
safe within the castle walls at the summit, exclaiming over 
and over again, " Ein' feste Burg ist unser Gott ! " As one 
murmurs Martin Luther's sublime hymn, and thinks of the 
work which he wrought during his temporary seclusion from 
his enemies, he realizes anew the strength and moral majesty 
of the man, and the mighty hold which he retains on the 
heart of a great people. The Germans always speak of the 
Wartburg with patriotic enthusiasm, and more than sixty 
thousand visitors last year found their way to this oldest and 
dearest of German fortresses and mountain castles. They 
summon before their minds the national hero who, in the 
annals of universal history, " closed up the Middle Ages and 
ushered in the new time." 

The Grand Duke of Weimar lives here only now and 
then ; but when he receives the German Emperor, it is 
always at the Wartburg. Between walls of rock, now cov- 
ered with moss, we walked the road that leads to the castle 
entrance, where German soldiers keep watch and ward. A 
few harmless cannon are placed on the terrace in front of 
the gate, and, standing by them, we look down into some 
of the most beautiful of wooded valleys. Entering the for- 
tress, which is also a palace, we discover that it is of con- 
siderable extent, and was built at various times, in such an 
elongated form that no one picture can possibly give its en- 
tire construction. The sacred place — for so it seems to 
the followers of Luther and to the devotees of St. Elizabeth 



128 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

— is beautifully kept. Flowers, vines, arbors, picturesque 
iron gargoyles, and various sculptures here and there attract 
the eye. Above the taller tower gleams the golden cross, a 
gift from the Austrian Emperor in memory of St. Elizabeth, 

— Elizabeth of Hungary, a real woman and a real saint, 
wife of the Landgrave Ludwig the Clement, to whom she 
was married early in the thirteenth century. 

We were first shown, in what was called the Landgrave's 
House, the halls and rooms which have been restored and 
elaborately decorated. We were conducted by the guide, 
whose German was far more intelligible than the mumbled 
English that one hears in Windsor Castle, to the Elizabeth 
gallery, where the frescos recall the Seven Works of Mercy 
associated with the lustrous saint, who died in her twenty- 
fourth year, and was very soon canonized by the Pope. 
Many will recall the legend, which Story has told in verse, of 
how the pious Elizabeth, forbidden by her lord to carry 
bread to the starving poor, was discovered by him with her 
mantle filled with loaves, and how she in that hour of bitter 
pain prayed that the loaves might be changed into roses, and 
how her prayer was answered. In the Landgrave's room we 
saw the frescos which called back the stirring scenes in the 
lives of the old lords of this palace. One of the pictures 
brings before us Ludwig the Iron, hearing from the black- 
smith how oppressive of the people were the masters the 
Landgrave had set over them. And this discovery led 
Ludwig to yoke those oppressors four at a time to the 
plough, teaching them as they dragged it through the field 
how the poor had suffered, whom they had unmercifully 
crushed. Of this same Ludwig the story is told that, when 
the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa had admired his castle, 
but expressed the opinion that it needed more walls around 
the inhabited part of it, the Landgrave answered that he 
could have walls built when he needed them, — indeed, in 
less than three days. Sending out a secret embassy to all 
his vassals in Thuringia to hasten to the Wartburg in the 
night-time wearing their best armor, he had the pleasure 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 1 29 

the next morning to inform the Emperor that the wall was 
already finished. Barbarossa crossed himself, expecting some 
miracle of the black art ; but when he saw a solid phalanx of 
knights, with the glancing of their swords and the splendor 
of their armor, he exclaimed : " In my whole life have I 
never seen a better or a dearer wall. Verily, trusty men 
form the best bulwark ! " 

More interesting than the memorials of the Landgraves is 
the hall in which took place, in the twelfth and thirteenth 
centuries, the contests between the Minnesingers, noble 
German minstrels, who sang of love and beauty, — a strife 
made familiar to millions by the scenes in "Tannhauser" 
and by Walter's prize song in Wagner's " Meistersinger," 
where the scene, however, is placed in Nuremberg. Sen- 
tences from these old-time songs are written upon the walls, 
where one may also see the modern painting which repro- 
duces this mediaeval event, making use, in German fashion,, 
of portraits of Kaulbach, Wagner, Liszt, and others. It 
would be interesting to estimate how large an influence over 
Germany's unparalleled musical genius and development 
came from the traditions of those old minstrel contests. 
The Wart burg, which is now a symbol of German unity, was 
also in reality a not inconsiderable means of attaining it. 
In 1 81 7, two years after the Napoleonic wars, students from 
every part of Germany gathered here for an enthusiastic 
festival ; and the university students had no small influence 
in that national movement, which culminated amid flashing 
swords at the imperial coronation in Versailles. 

But we found ourselves closer still to the heart of Ger- 
many when we entered the Luther room, in that part of 
the castle called the Ritterhaus. After visiting a splendid 
collection of mediaeval armor, containing several fine his- 
torical pieces, we were taken into the small apartment 
where the reformer did perhaps the greatest work of his 
life. All remember that, returning from the Imperial Diet 
at Worms, where in the presence of Charles V. he re- 
fused to retract and deny his conscience and convictions, 

9 



I30 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

he was intercepted by his friend the Elector Frederick 
the Wise, and conducted on the fourth of May, 15 21, to 
the Wartburg, where he remained till the sixth of March 
of the following year. Here he was known as "Junker 
Georg," and as a young nobleman he wore the armor 
which is exhibited in the Luther room. Now and then 
he went hunting, with the other dwellers in the castle ; but 
his mighty spirit found no joy or relief in the killing of 
hares. He felt that there was bigger and worthier game 
waiting destruction from that sword of the Spirit which he 
was then sharpening. We saw the table at which he sat 
toiling over his translation of the Scriptures, the footstool — 
a huge vertebra from a mammoth — on which his feet 
rested, the bed on which he lay down, his book-case, letters 
that he had written, his portrait by his friend Lucas Cranach, 
portraits of his father, mother, and wife, and the famous ink- 
stains on the plaster of the wall (faithfully renewed) to 
show where he had hurled his ink-bottle at the tempting 
devil ! Luther put his ink to better use than that. With 
it he made " God talk German." He gave a great people 
the whole Bible, which they read to-day, the standard of the 
German tongue, the book which preserved the only unity 
which they kept for many years, — the unity of language, 
literature, and thought. We looked out of the windows 
from which he so often saw the stars and the green hills, 
and standing by which his strong heart often yearned for 
companionship with friends and battles with enemies in the 
great world of his time. When at last he did go forth, it 
was with a weapon in his hand invincible for the pulling 
down of strongholds. After leaving Luther's room we 
climbed the south tower, from which one may see the 
Horselberg, holding Tannhauser's Grotto of Venus, and we 
lingered for a long while, enraptured by the wondrous scene, 
touching every noblest fibre of sentiment, faith, imagination, 
and memory, a scene over which the light of closing day 
flung a magic glory. Reluctantly we left our Mount of 
Vision, and descended to the St. Nicolas Church. Near it 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 131 

is the great Luther monument, erected last year, in com- 
memoration of the historic imprisonment at the Wartburg. 
The Augustinian monk, looking himself like a mighty castle 
in his strength, holds in his hands the Bible, and seems to 
say in proud defiance, " Here is something mightier than 
Pope and Church and Emperor." One of the bas-reliefs 
represents him translating the Scriptures ; another shows 
"Junker Georg," a bearded young nobleman with his cross- 
bow, resting from his hunting, and buried in profound 
thought. And still another shows him as a httle boy leaving 
Frau Ursula Cotta's home for the Eisenach school. We 
visited the house of the Cotta family, and the little room 
where young Martin once slept, never dreaming that one 
day it would be filled with memorials of him and become a 
pilgrim-shrine to the nations. In the St. Nicolas Church, 
which has been splendidly restored, and is decorated with 
the forms of prophets, apostles, and evangelists, the figure 
of Martin Luther looks at us from a window in the apse, and 
we felt his presence very near when with the large congre- 
gation we sang the hymn which says, " Thy Word makes 
soul and body strong." 

As from the train I caught a last glimpse of the Wartburg, 
it seemed to me to be a mountain which wonderfully 
symbolized the three abiding virtues, faith, hope, and love. 
There the Minnesingers had sung of earthly love. There 
had been shaped the forces which had created the expec- 
tation, or at least had furnished the ground of hope, for 
national unity and regeneration. There the great battle 
of faith had been fought out in one man's soul, and the 
victory of faith made possible. There the beautiful minis- 
tries of the saintly Elizabeth had revealed the spirit of that 
charity which towers over all, like the cross on the highest 
summit of the Wartburg, that charity dear alike to Catholic 
and Reformer, so that the old castle, full of such inspirations 
and noble memories to the Protestant, appeared to me also 
a prophecy, both of the triumph of the pure Gospel and of 
the ultimate reunion of Christendom. 



CHAPTER XL 

IN CLASSIC GERMANY — WEIMAR, JENA, LEIPSIC, DRESDEN, 
WITTENBERG. 

' i ^HE train carried us eastward through Erfurt, in whose 
■^ university, now consumed, Luther found the hght of 
the Gospel, and reached Weimar, the Athens of Germany, 
in time for table d'hote at the Erbprinz Hotel. 

You feel at once that the little city of the Grand Duke 
Carl Alexander has a proud, aristocratic appearance and 
atmosphere. That a town of about twenty-five thousand 
inhabitants should possess such museums, palaces, libraries, 
and monuments, was evidently made possible only by the 
concentration of power and wealth in the Grand Ducal 
hands. La the Museum I became acquainted for the first 
time with the artistic work of Preller, a name with which 
we shall become familiar in the galleries which we are to 
explore. His scenes from the " Odyssey," which decorate 
the chief room of the Museum, are so admirable in design 
and delightful in color that one would enjoy a frequent 
vision of such creations as make more real the most de- 
lightful of all the longer poems of the world. The old 
Stadtkirche of Weimar was a revelation and a surprise. 
Near it is the monument to Herder, "A classic among the 
Theologians and a Theologian among the classics," and 
within it this famous preacher — whose motto was " Light, 
love, life," and who said, " Love, that you may under- 
stand " — offered his large gospel from a pulpit in which 
Martin Luther himself had spoken. 

The interior of the church stirred those deep and peculiar 
feelings which I frequently have in England, and which I 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 133 

rarely experience in Germany. The sympathetic visitor is 
brought through his historic imagination into close prox- 
imity with the mighty ones of old, — " the dead but scep- 
tred sovereigns who rule our spirits from their urns." The 
most impressive of all the pictures of Luther's artist friend 
Cranach is in this church, — a crucifixion, and by the way 
of supplement, on the same canvas, a resurrection. Luther 
once said, "We have taken Christ off the crucifix." The 
artist, with no regard for chronology, wherein he resembles 
the older masters, brings Luther, Melanchthon, and himself 
into the picture ; and the attendant called our attention, 
for the light was dim, to a tiny stream of blood issuing from 
the Redeemer's side, which, after forming an arc, like a 
rainbow, falls upon the artist's head. We were shown the 
very elaborate sculptured monuments to the princes of 
Weimar, the " box " where the Grand Duke Carl Augus- 
tus sat, and the smaller place of state reserved for Goethe. 
I asked the privilege of ascending to the pulpit where 
Luther had preached, and I even pronounced a brief ser- 
mon in Luther's words ; " Ein' feste Burg ist unser Gott." 
The next afternoon, in the Stadtkirche of Jena, we saw 
another pulpit in which the reformer once stood, and I 
must confess a perhaps juvenile interest in such memorials. 
The Grand Ducal Palace in Weimar was rich in interest 
beyond our expectations, not only because of its various 
art treasures, representing portraits of illustrious personages 
and many drawings from famous masters ; not only because 
of its splendid treasures of malachite and buhl and lapis- 
lazuli, of Roman and Florentine mosaics, but also, and 
chiefly, from its intimate associations with the great poets 
of Germany. Here was the lovely chapel which Goethe 
devised ; here was the winter-garden, with the chairs still 
standing, in which Goethe and Carl Augustus sat during 
their long conferences; here was the chess-table, of semi- 
precious stones, which Goethe brought back from his Italian 
journey ; here was the Goethe room, adorned with scenes 
from " Iphigenia," " Egtnont," and " Faust j" here was 



134 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

the Schiller room, with scenes from Schiller's plays ; here 
were the Wieland and Herder rooms : all of them helping 
to redeem the palace from that air of merely princely splen- 
dor of which one grows weary in Europe. These are great 
forms, are they not, which haunt the Grand Ducal cham- 
bers ? And as we stepped upon the stairway at the head 
of which Napoleon was received after the battle of Jena, we 
felt the presence of a still greater shade, as if Jupiter him- 
self had come down among the lesser gods. 

Weimar abounds in statues, some of them, like the 
equestrian figure of Carl Augustus, quite impressive, and 
one of them, which the Fatherland has erected to the 
glory of Goethe and Schiller, world-famous. 

We took our supper at the Werther restaurant, opposite 
the theatre which stands on the ground of the Hof Thea:ter, 
burned down in 1825, wherein operas and plays from 
Mozart, Kotzebue, Schiller, Shakespeare, and Goethe had 
notable representations in the days when Weimar was the 
centre of German culture. In the theatre which now 
stands, Liszt was Kapellmeister; and here, in 1859, under 
his direction, Wagner's " Lohengrin " was for the first time 
given to the world. Here, too, "Tannhauser," first heard 
in Dresden, had its second representation. Liszt is one of 
the celebrities of Weimar, having lived here fourteen years ; 
and his house has become a Liszt museum. The Werther 
restaurant is a thoroughly German place, and has been fre- 
quented by all the famous men of Weimar. In the house, 
of which it is a part, there once dwelt also a famous woman, 
Johanna Schopenhauer, author of novels and romances, 
whose cleverness drew to her the company of Goethe and 
his great contemporaries. While the rain was pouring 
without, we breathed the smoky air and enjoyed the hos- 
pitalities of this memory- haunted place. 

But the next day we came far closer to Goethe's life by 
visiting his two homes, — the little summer house beyond 
the park, and rising above the meadows on the banks of 
the Ilm, and his stately city residence, which has now be- 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 1 35 

come a Goethe National Museum. The summer house is 
unpretentious in the extreme. It is kept nearly as it was 
in the poet's life. We visited all the rooms, saw where he 
studied and where he slept, and the bed, that could be 
folded into small compass, and which he took with him on 
his Italian journey. In the glade back of the house is his 
favorite seat, and by it the stone, with a poetical inscrip- 
tion to his friend Frau Stein, which he himself had carved 
upon it. 

The prosperous Goethe, classic in his own lifetime, was 
consciously posing for posterity, and arranging things for 
the convenience of those who were to visit the shrines asso- 
ciated with his life. The Schiller house, which we visited, 
is simple enough, but the Goethe house was an almost pala- 
tial home of the Muses. The room in which he died and 
the bed on which he lay asking for " more light," his study, 
and his books are preserved nearly as he left them. But 
the house has been turned into a Goethe museum. It is 
filled also with the poet's own treasures, which were costly 
and splendid. Busts, statues, portraits, and sketches of 
Goethe abound. Here are drawings by his own hand, and 
scientific collections which he made. He seemed to have 
an eye and a mind for everything rich, curious, and beauti- 
ful. The intellectual and aesthetic culture which he cen- 
tred in himself was prodigious ; but the ego in this man 
was enormously large. 

To me, however, the central shrine of Goethe is the 
Grand Ducal Library, which the poet himself transformed 
into its present shape. A most intelligent and interested 
librarian was our guide among the two hundred thousand 
volumes and innumerable busts and pictures. Here oc- 
curred rehearsals by the court gentlemen and ladies of 
some of Goethe's and Schiller's plays. Here are the books 
which the poet gathered and consulted. We looked with 
admiration upon Trippel's famous bust of Goethe, one of 
the most beautiful things in the world. It shows the young 
poet at twenty-seven, fairer than a Greek Apollo. But one 



136 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

does not see any heavenly fire latent in the young soul. 
The light that streamed over the marbles and academic 
groves of Athens is there, but no flame from Pentecost. 
The world's intellectual indebtedness to Goethe is great and 
growing. He was not lacking in fine traits of character. 
But his " ideals were Hellenic, not Hebrew," and he found 
a thousand pages written by both ancient and modern men, 
graciously endowed of God, " quite as beautiful and useful 
and necessary to mankind " as the Gospels. He says of 
himself that he tried life under all of its varied aspects : 
the pleasures of sense, of pride, of intellectual power, of 
aesthetic culture, he knew to the full, and he discovered 
their hollowness. The Sahara Desert is the image to which 
an Aiaierican critic likens Goethe's continental selfishness. 
From his working-room in the Grand Ducal Library he 
could look upon the windows behind which lived three 
of the women who most deeply admired him. One can- 
not visit the Goethe house and museum in Weimar without 
realizing that the poet was determined to possess everything 
that might give any joy or satisfaction in life. '^ A great 
man in a silk coat," Heine calls him. The moral results of 
his many years of refined selfishness seem to me indicated 
by another famous bust of Goethe exhibited in the Library. 
It represents him in extreme old age. The Apollo has dis- 
appeared, but Jupiter is there, and, alas ! Mephistopheles 
also. 

On a table in this library were placed the bones of 
Schiller, and here Goethe arranged them for their new se- 
pulture in the Grand Ducal vault. Here are some of the 
most famous maps of the sixteenth century. Here is the 
monk's gown in which Luther stood before the Emperor at 
the Diet of Worms. Here is the leather doublet which 
Gustavus Adolphus wore at the fatal battle of Liitzen, and, 
putting his finger into the bullet-hole, the young gentleman 
of our party naturally felt that he was very close to history. 
And here we saw a bust of Napoleon, made while he was in 
Weimar, which greatly pleased the Emperor, because the 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 1 37 

German sculptor had not flattered him, as the French 
artists always did. 

And I have come to feel that with all the sincere devo- 
tion which the German people give to Martin Luther, a 
large portion of the population have more sympathy with the 
intellectual temper, the many-sided culture, and — shall I 
add, the non-spiritual life — of Goethe, greatest of German 
poets. In Weimar and out of it we confront, on canvas and 
in marble and bronze, the imposing face and figure of this 
marvellous man. The German classics are few in number 
and German literature of the higher order is soon exhausted. 
Those who know Klopstock, Lessing, Goethe, Schiller, 
Herder, Wieland, Heine, Richter, Korner, Uhland, and a 
few besides, need not look further. The classics cover a 
limited time, and, compared with the indescribable wealth 
of English literature, the great German literature is meagre 
indeed. But no English poet was ever honored like Goethe. 
In his lifetime and since his death, the regard for him has 
been worship, confined to no one class of his countrymen. 
How little honor was given to Shakespeare in his lifetnne ! 
And how few and paltry are the outward memorials with 
which England honors glorious John Milton ! Emerson, 
Lowell, Longfellow, Holmes, Agassiz, Sumner, Whittier, 
Motley — the octet who gave lustre, during the last gener- 
ation, to Boston and its neighborhood — I think are likely 
to fare better at the hands of a grateful republic. But if I 
should continue much longer this account of the treasures 
we discovered in Weimar, I should have no space for what 
we have seen since. Reluctantly we left the city, which 
Goethe described as " hke Bethlehem in Judah, small and 
great." 

We spent five hours in Jena, and found the old university 
town, with its students all gone, as quiet as death. There is 
not much to draw one to Jena except a desire to become 
familiar with the external features of a famous seat of learn- 
ing. Schiller once held a professorship in the gray and 
venerable university, and we saw the Schloss where 



138 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Goethe wrote his " Hermann and Dorothea." We walked 
through the hbrary ; we saw the statue of John Frederick the 
Generous, who founded the university ; we walked on the 
Philosophers' Way, and thought of Fichte, Schelling, and 
Hegel, who have given Jena a great name in the history of 
speculation, and we looked upon the monument to the nat- 
uralist Oken, who was one of the teachers of Agassiz ; we 
admired the beautiful unwooded hills that surround the 
little city, and, on leaving it to come hither, we passed not 
far from the battlefield where Napoleon brought such 
humiliation upon the Prussians. 

Leipsic we found interesting enough to hold, us a full day. 
Its university stands next to Berlin, and the new university 
building, with its columns and rich sculptures, is second 
only to the new Sorbonne in Paris. The Supreme Law Courts 
of the German Empire are here, housed in one of the grand- 
est secular buildings of Germany. When I think also of the 
new Gewandhaus, or Drapers' Hall, containing the libraries 
of both the university and the city, of the Conservatory and 
the Museum, I am compelled to regard Leipsic as archi- 
tecturally second to scarcely any city of the Fatherland. It 
is famous also for its annual fairs, to which buyers and sellers 
come from the Orient, and for its printing-offices and book- 
sellers' shops, which make it a centre of the book-trade 
almost equal to Chicago, although its population is not more 
than one-eighth of that city's inhabitants. 

Leipsic, the birthplace of Wagner, is celebrated likewise 
for its music. We have had a happy hour or two in the 
Rosenthal, the city's beautiful park, where in the zoological 
garden we photographed the zebras and saw the per- 
formances of a fine group of Samoans, perhaps the same 
whom we met in the Midway Plaisance. On the tower of 
the Pleissenburg we have seen where raged in 181 3 the 
bloody Battle of the Nations, so disastrous to Napoleon. 
And from the same point of view we have caught a glimpse 
of Liitzen, where Gustavus died. In the city we have 
visited the monument commemorating the premature ex- 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 1 39 

plosion by which the bridge across the river was blowr\ up 
and so many French soldiers were destroyed. We have 
also seen the house where Schiller lived and wrote his 
" Hymn to Joy." We have heard a Russian orchestra at a 
restaurant, and in the picture-gallery have feasted our eyes 
on the superb landscapes of Calame, and have seen Napo- 
leon at Fontainebleau, as portrayed by Paul Delaroche. 

But our hearts were turning toward Dresden. We 
arrived at the Saxon capital by a fast train from Leipsic, 
one dark and rainy evening, and, with a strong porter 
carrying our luggage on his shoulders, we entered our 
pension, in the Liittechaustrasse, a street given up to 
pensions, in the English and American quarter, and not far 
from the new station. 

This was my first experience in a large city of that pecu- 
liar European institution which in America is called a 
boarding-house. As a substitute for a hotel, this pension 
was by no . means a failure. For comfortable rooms, fair 
service, the usual light breakfast and good dinners and 
suppers, we paid daily four marks apiece. And then the 
company at the dinner-table was worth all we paid. Two 
brothers and two sisters, talkers in many languages, had 
charge of us in the absence of their mother. That gentle- 
man at the end of the table is a German who has lived 
many years in Chile. His Spanish wife and their children 
sit next to him. Nearly opposite me is an ancient maiden 
lady from England, who talks a dialect which my son does 
not understand. Opposite her is an Englishman who 
receives a great deal of effusive attention from two Ameri- 
can young women. Toward the end of the table is a large, 
good-natured opera-singer, himself a Dane. His very 
handsome Austrian wife sits next him. Their beautiful 
baby is in charge of an Italian nurse. With some reason 
our pension is called " International." 

Sight-seeing of the tremendously earnest and serious 
kind which we carry on, demands more food than is fur- 
nished by three meals a day. After two hours in a picture- 



140 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

gallery or museum the quartet always clamored for a caf^, 
and Dresden abounds in such benevolent institutions. The 
chocolate and the " Kuchen " which can be obtained at 
several places near the old market, or at PoUender's beyond 
the old bridge, are a good supplement to the joy of seeing 
the " Sistine Madonna." The variety of pleasures which 
can be crowded into a day in Dresden is surprising. 

The pictures which one can see and the music which one 
can hear combine to give the capital of Saxony a potent and 
enduring charm. Great improvements have occurred since 
my last visit here. The fine residence portion has been 
considerably enlarged. The shops which we used to haunt 
about the old market show a new splendor along the Pra- 
gerstrasse. English signs are distressingly numerous, and 
evidences of American and English occupation are nearly 
everywhere apparent. The tramway system in Dresden is 
an immense convenience, after you learn that the cars stop 
only at the " Halte-Stellen," which are signs by the street, 
placed rather far apart and marked by those words. And then 
what fun and physical recreation for weary sight-seers are 
long rides on the spacious tops of these comfortable street 
cars ! 

Four of our evenings in Dresden were given up to music. 
There were the two concerts at the Belvedere on the Bruhl 
Terrace by the river, and there were " Mignon " and 
" Tannhauser " at the Royal Opera House. Our visits to 
the Wartburg and to Weimar were a real preparation for the 
keen enjoyment of these finely rendered operas. The 
present King of Saxony, the richest ruler in Germany, out- 
ranking the emperor himself in personal possessions, con- 
tributes five hundred thousand marks annually out of his 
private purse to maintain the high character and repute of 
the Dresden opera. 

From before the days of Augustus the Strong Saxon kings 
have been famous collectors, and their success in bringing 
together the rarest and finest results of artistic workmanship 
is the wonder of all who examine the treasures of the royal 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 141 

green vault, of the Historical Museum, the collection of 
porcelain, and the almost unequalled picture-gallery. The 
pictures, however, now belong to the city of Dresden, 
excepting the " Sistine Madonna," the most precious and 
celebrated of them all, which is the king's private property. 
England's display of armor, weapons, and crown jewels in 
the Tower of London appears rather cheap and small 
after one has spent a few mornings in the King of Saxony's 
museums. There is no other collection of porcelain to be 
mentioned beside that which forms a part of the Museum 
Johanneum, And who will ever forget his dazzled bewilder- 
ment amid the treasures of the Green Vaults, — treasures of 
bronze, buhl, and ivory, enamels, mosaics, corals, mother- 
of-pearl, gold, silver, and crystal, agate, jasper, and onyx, 
cameos, chalcedony and lapis lazuli, carved woods, serpen- 
tine and jade, with a display of jewels, diamonds, pearls, 
rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, reminding one of Milton's 
picture of Satan's throne outshining — 

" The wealth of Ortnus or of Ind, 
Or where the gorgeous east with richest hand 
Showers on her kings barbaric pearl and gold." 

Saxony is a Protestant kingdom, but from the day when 
Augustus the Strong became ruler of the Catholic kingdom 
of Poland the Saxon monarchs have been Roman Catholics. 
The connection with Poland has brought to these museums 
many Polish jewels and other treasures, some of them of 
historic interest, like John Sobieski's coat of mail and the 
tent of the grand vizier Mustapha, captured at the siege 
of Vienna. Sir Walter Scott gathered into Abbotsford a 
marvellous number of historical curios. But the King of 
Saxony shows you, and you can hardly overestimate the 
interest of imaginative young people in seeing them, such 
treasures as Napoleon's gift of splendid Sevres pottery to 
the Saxon ruler ; the swords of Peter the Great of Russia 
and Charles XII. of Sweden ; jewels belonging to many 
emperors, electors, and archbishops ; sapphires given by the 
Russian czar ; rings once worn by Dr. Martin Luther ; suits 



142 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

of armor used by earlier Saxon princes or by King Gusta- 
vus Adolphus ; and costumes, some of them belonging to 
Napoleon. 

But I suppose that for every visitor to the royal museums 
to which I have referred a hundred enter the picture 
gallery, housed in one part of the Zvvinger, the six pavilions 
of which contain an immense variety of scientific and 
other collections. The Louvre in Paris is much larger, 
and is, of course, far richer in the masterpieces of French 
art. The galleries of Florence occupy no second place 
among the treasuries of beauty. But Dresden is in one 
respect supreme. It holds Raphael's " Sistine Madonna," 
whose tender and magnificent loveliness has won many 
millions of hearts. Is there any other little room in 
Europe which has drawn to it the feet of so many of the 
great and wise and famous of the earth as that room which 
is sacred to Raphael's most famous picture? Men usually 
wear their hats before the other works in the immense 
gallery, but they nearly always remove them when they 
enter the sanctuary set apart to the Mother and Child. I 
think the prodigious expectations with which people come 
to this picture usually are more than realized, and this is 
all the more remarkable because everybody is perfectly 
familiar with Raphael's masterpiece through photographs, 
engravings, and attempted copies. But even the best 
copies fail to catch the surpassing loveliness of color, 
which is one of the chief surprises of the picture. 

I come back to the Dresden gallery after a long absence, 
and am glad to find that my appreciative enthusiasm for 
its chief works has been greatly augmented. It would be a 
sad experience were it otherwise. What is best in art, 
nature, literature, should not only presen'e for us an 
eternal youth, but should help to keep in us an immortal 
freshness of appreciation and a deepening insight into the 
world of the true, the beautiful, and the good. If I were 
giving counsel to any who are planning a visit to this 
gallery, or even dreaming of it, I would say : Learn all 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 1 43 

you can before coming here, expect much, and then be 
happy in having your expectations surpassed. In pictures, 
as in music and poetry, do not limit your admiration to 
one master. Enter sympathetically into the spiritual ideal- 
ism of Raphael and also into the intellectual and imagina- 
tive realism of Rembrandt. The great Dutch magician's 
"Jewish Rabbi," the "Breakfast Scene," the " Saskia," 
the "Eagle and Ganymede," the "Portrait of an Old 
Man," in one of the rooms of this gallery, lost for me 
none of their peculiar attraction, even after the " Sistine 
Madonna " and Correggio's " Holy Night." We found 
it a rest to the mind to leave the rooms, rich with the 
great canvases of Raphael, Rubens, and Correggio, Paul 
Veronese and Palma Vecchio, to enter the smaller rooms 
with the smaller canvases, among which Titian's " Tribute- 
Money " is probably pre-eminent. But these cabinets are 
almost equally notable for the wealth of Netherlandish 
painting, for the pictures of Wouverman and Ruysdael, 
Van Eyck and Teniers, Ostade and Terburg. In German 
art Holbein's " Madonna " and Diirer's " Crucifixion," 
marvellous though tiny, hold the supreme place. 

The classics of other centuries weary the spectator 
sooner than modern pictures. It is often with consider- 
able eifort, like that required in reading old English or 
translating from a foreign language, that one enters into 
acquaintance and sympathy with their meaning. There- 
fore, if I may add one more word of counsel, I should 
advise my readers visiting the Dresden gallery to escape 
now and then to the upper floor, where they may see 
Gerard's " Napoleon in his Coronation Robes," some 
good specimens of Defregger, and Andreas and Oswald 
Achenbach, and where, best of all, they may hnger before 
Professor Hofmann's " Christ in the Temple." After the 
"Sistine Madonna" this appears to be the most popular 
picture in Dresden. Through photographs it has become 
familiar to almost everybody. To some of us it is a 
sacred picture, indeed, and the figure of the young Jesus, 



144 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

with the radiant beauty of His face, is like a vision out of 
heaven. We had the pleasure of calling upon Professor 
Hofmann in his studio in the Bismarck-strasse, and there 
we saw the original of " Christ and the Rich Young Ruler," 
so well known to Americans. No other modern has 
given the Christians of to-day such satisfactory represen- 
tations of Christ. His "Jesus Blessing Little Children" 
is becoming a favorite picture upon church windows. 
Professor Hofmann is a gracious and sweet-hearted old 
gentleman, whose soul seems to have been made beautiful 
by' his beautiful thoughts of the Man Divine. And who 
else among modern painters has put upon the canvas such 
fascinating colors ? The delight of the eye in color which 
I had in seeing his " Christ in the Temple " and " Christ 
and the Rich Young Ruler " suggested to me the similar 
pleasure which one feels before the " Sistine Madonna." 
Professor Hofmann is very happy that Americans are so 
fond of his work ; but he hardly expects that " Christ and 
the Rich Young Ruler " will be bought by any of our 
American millionaires. I told him, however, that there 
were many thoroughly Christian men among them, who 
were using their riches for others and who would not be 
troubled by the prophet's testing words issuing from this 
canvas : " Sell whatsoever thou hast and give to the 
poor." 

Nearly every one who goes to Dresden is eager to make 
a little trip to the old town of Meissen, where the royal 
porcelain is manufactured. The quartet spent an after- 
noon of great interest in visiting not only the manufactory, 
one of the many properties of the Saxon king, but also the 
imposing castle of the old margraves, nobly situated and 
nobly built, giving wide views of the valley of the Elbe. 
For one hundred and fifty years the thrifty Saxon kings 
utilized this extensive building for the manufacture of Dres- 
den porcelain. But the present king has had the old 
Schloss thoroughly restored and superbly decorated with 
frescos which illustrate its great history from the days of the 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 1 45 

Emperor Henry I. down to the time when the chemist 
Boettger, the inventor of the famous porcelain, was impris- 
oned here and compelled by Augustus the Strong to give 
up his secret. 

The castle is far more imposing than even the Wartburg, 
and we were delighted to wander through its banqueting- 
halls, its chapel, the women's apartments, and the judgment 
hall, where the artistic and historical interests are con- 
stantly blended. Judging from the painted wooden fig- 
ures which stand in the large banqueting- hall, by which 
modern art has endeavored to reproduce the Saxon princes, 
they were masterful men, " with Atlantean shoulders fit to 
bear the weight of mightiest monarchies." But what fear- 
ful graspers and absorbers these old and modern rulers 
have shown themselves to be ! 

On the same high platform with the castle is the fine 
cathedral, containing splendid monuments and the dust of 
many a warlike prince. There was a good deal of stir and 
excitement among the attendants in the Schloss, as the 
King of Saxony was expected within a few weeks to enter- 
tain the young Kaiser during a three hours' visit within its 
historic walls. But the peculiar interest of Meissen centres 
in the porcelain factory, where such artistic work is done. 
We saw all the processes, from the kneading of the white 
clay to the burnishing of the gold on the finished work. 
Those among the seven hundred and fifty workmen whose 
labors we watched appeared to be skilful, certain, and 
strong in their various manipulations. It gave us a renewed 
interest in the Dresden ware to be assured by ocular 
demonstration that every plate and cup is the product of 
many educated hands. It was interesting to see the famil- 
iar " onion pattern," from which we have eaten for years, 
and which I saw last summer in Professor Max Miiller's 
home in Oxford, here being fashioned and decorated, not 
only in blue, but also in red and gilt. Several burnings, 
varying in number, are required in the manufacture, and 
we were surprised to see what a tremendous shrinkage these 



146 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

fiery trials and hardenings made in the original size of the 
plates. The young people were reluctant to leave the fac- 
tory, even though they knew that on their return to Dresden 
they were to go immediately to the opera. 

After leaving Dresden we were tempted to break our 
journey across the great Saxon plains by a few hours' halt 
in Wittenberg. I never realized before what a wealth of 
memorials, visible to the eye, Martin Luther has bequeathed 
to his country, as I have on this little journey in classic 
Germany. And Wittenberg, his own dear city, whose people 
he loved and who stood by him during the stormiest years of 
his great life, seemed to us like one immense Duther museum. 
We photographed the oak which marks the place where he 
burned the papal bull. In the Stadtkirche, where the ele- 
ments of the communion were first administered in both 
kinds to the laity, we stood where Luther's voice had so 
often roused, enlightened, and comforted the people. In 
the Market Place we saw the well-known statue, bearing the 
more famous inscription : " If it be God's work, it will 
endure ; if man's work, it will perish." In the Schlosskirche 
we walked through the sacred archway on whose wooden 
portals Luther nailed his ninety-five theses against the 
errors of the Roman church, and looked with more than 
a curious interest upon the bronze doors, which have taken 
their place, inscribed with the original Latin text of Luther's 
propositions. In the arch of the portal is a modern pic- 
ture of the Crucifixion, with Luther and Melanchthon kneel- 
ing before the Christ. Over the doors the statues of the 
Electors Frederick and John appear still to guard the Re- 
formed Doctrine. Within the church we stood by the 
graves of the hero and of the scholar of the Reformation, 
and saw in the windows the escutcheons of the brave Ger- 
man cities that championed the cause of the gospel. In 
the remodelled and splendid interior are statues of the 
reformers before the Reformation, Savonarola's among 
them, giving one a new impression of Luther's personal 
and historic greatness. 



IN CLASSIC GERMANY. 147 

But Luther's house, contained in the old Augustinian 
monastery, which hkevvise was the university building 
where he lectured from the chair of Philosophy, brought 
us to the inmost sanctuary of his public and domestic life. 
We sat in the window-chairs once occupied by him and the 
beloved Catherine. In this room are his table where he 
wrote, and the enormous German stove decorated with 
tiles and bas-reliefs of the Evangelists, designed by Luther 
himself. The apartments are spacious and numerous. 
One of them is adorned with paintings representing great 
scenes in Luther's life, together with a striking picture of 
Charles the Fifth and the Duke of Alva at Luther's grave. 
The literary treasures include autographs, historical docu- 
ments, the first editions of Luther's works, old translations 
of the Bible, and Luther's library of ponderous books. One 
of Luther's pulpits is exhibited here, and in the Lecture 
Room I had the pleasure of standing in the ancient cathe- 
dra, adorned with the arms of the Wittenberg faculties, 
from which the great preacher expounded the divine 
philosophy. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Germany's capital. 

/^UR seven days in the Kaiser's splendid city gave us in 
^-^ many respects the crowning interest of our trip. 
Berhn has greatly improved since 1886, when I last saw it. 
The population to-day is about that of Chicago, and a com- 
parison between the German city on the Spree and the 
queen of the American lakes would be interesting, if not 
altogether flattering to our pride. In 1833, when the town 
of Chicago was organized, Berlin had a population of about 
three hundred thousand, with an uneventful history of six 
centuries stretching behind it. It was the capital of the 
strong military kingdom of Prussia, the nucleus of the 
coming German Empire. As an achievement of the energy, 
pluck and enterprise which belong to American character 
and seem natural to American institutions, Chicago is a 
much more wonderful product than Berlin. The German 
city has been fostered into strength by the pride and power 
of the Prussian kings and the rulers of the new German 
Empire. Its virtues and achievements are such as naturally 
spring from a wisely administered, centralized government. 
The cleanness of its streets, the perfect municipal order, 
the universal obedience to law, and the absence of all slums 
and evidences of degrading poverty are most admirable. 
The Berlin police, appointed and controlled by the royal 
government, is military in its character, and is made up 
largely of soldiers who were non-commissioned officers. 
They are not dependent on ward bosses for their positions, 
and they appear to have no other business than to see that 
the laws and municipal regulations are enforced. Republi- 



GERMANY'S CAPITAL. I49 

can institutions are superior to the monarchical, and some- 
times indicate a higher stage of civihzation; still, for the 
government of great cities kingly rule in the hands of wise 
administrators has some very positive, if only temporary, 
advantages. 

One striking feature of German life is the omnipresence 
of the soldier. The barracks stand everywhere, in proxim- 
ity to gymnasium, church, palace, university. The German 
army is the people's pride and the whole world's admira- 
tion. The Empire, with Russia on the one hand and 
France on the other, is possible only on the basis of the 
present strong militarism. I write on Sedan Day, when 
bells have been ringing in the church towers in harmony 
with the people's proud and joyous memories. At a great 
price Germany has achieved her unity, and at a great price 
she maintains her glory. In spite of the discontent repre- 
sented by the growing power of socialism, the people gen- 
erally acquiesce in the present imperialism. Multitudes 
applaud it as the safest and most beneficent form of gov- 
ernment. When the other day we saw the young Kaiser 
in his military uniform, driven down the Unter den Linden, 
he was warmly received, more warmly than he was wont to 
be a few years ago. The national idea is here joined to 
the imperial, and has taken possession of the people's 
minds. 

Of course the task of creating and governing such a city 
as Chicago, where everything had to be built from the 
foundations, has been something prodigious. It has no 
homogeneity of population like Berlin, but is only a half- 
Americanized mixture of twenty nationalities. It cannot 
achieve Berlin's success in municipal government in even a 
decade of civic federation enthusiasm and activity. But if 
it approximates it, there must be a wide education of the 
people, the teaching of municipal patriotism in the schools, 
a biennial regeneration of the common council, strict non- 
partisanship in city politics, invincible opposition to grasp- 
ing corporations, and the consecration of the lives of many 



150 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

of our more prosperous, educated, and leisurely people to 
the work of city reform. 

The contrast between the forces which have made the 
two cities becomes evident by comparison of their universi- 
ties. In Berlin the university, now the greatest in Ger- 
many, was a royal foundation at the beginning of the 
century. It is fostered by the central government, and is as 
much a part of the national administration as the army or 
the law courts. In Chicago the university sprang from the 
gifts of American citizens. Zeal for Christian education, 
enthusiasm for advancing knowledge and municipal pride 
and hope are some of the potent forces behind it. 

On the continent of Europe almost everything seems to 
depend on government initiative, in which respect Germany 
resembles China. But the American people are literally 
uncrowned kings. From their creative minds and their 
strong, brave, generous hearts our best achievements imme- 
diately spring. I must say that in the matter of buildings 
our young university makes a better showing than the older 
and more famous institution. One feels something of awe, 
however, as he stands on the Unter den Linden by the 
marble statues of William and Alexander von Humboldt 
and looks at the rather plain and sombre walls of the Ger- 
man institution. The great names associated with the past 
and present of the Berlin University are among the chief in 
the annals of learning. The Humboldts, Hegel, Schleier- 
macher, Neander, Mommsen, Ranke, Curtius, Virchow, 
Helmholtz, Harnack, Pfleiderer, — these are among the 
giants of the century. 

When I speak of Berlin as a " splendid capital," I do not 
mean to rank it with Paris, although large sections of it are 
quite as well built and as fine as that city by the Seine, 
which everybody may visit — excepting the German Kaiser ! 
Nor do I wish to claim that Berlin has streets and business 
houses equal to the best that can be seen in New York and 
Chicago. But the Leipzigerstrasse, the Wilhelmstrasse 
and others are noble streets, and the same may be said of 



GERMANY'S CAPITAL. 151 

the Unter den Linden, which, however, is always a disap- 
pointment on account of the comparative insignificance of 
the linden-trees. Berhn makes a brave appearance, with its 
many impressive monuments, its numerous palaces, its 
really fine museums, its brilliant arcades, its new and im- 
posing Parliament House, — the architecture of which, 
however, the Emperor strongly disapproves, — and its mag- 
nificent park, very accessible, adorned with many statues 
and enlivened with wild animals and plenty of good music. 
The means of transportation are unusually satisfectory, 
and I used there for the first time the " taxoraeter," 
a four-wheeled cab where a clockwork arrangement is set 
in motion when you begin your drive and you see on its 
face precisely the amount which you must pay at any 
moment. It is set for one, two, three, or more than three 
persons, the index finger, of course, moving faster with the 
larger number. It always begins with fifty pfennigs ; and 
four of us riding one morning from near the new ParHament 
House, in the Thiergarten, through the Brandenburger Thor 
down the whole length of Unter den Linden, the distance 
of a mile, to the Old Museum, we saw the index finger 
creep up to only ninety pfennigs, or twenty-two cents. 
Cheap cabs, over which there can be no quarrelling, are 
among the traveller's greatest boons. 

This is, of all lands, the land of music and of out-door 
eating and drinking. An American student of Political 
Economy escorted me one afternoon to the Hasenheide, to 
get a glimpse of the poorer populations of the city in the 
region where they take their cheap enjoyments. Here 
was exhibited one of the principal facts in the social econ- 
omy of Germany. One hundred and fifty thousand Ber- 
liners, on many Sunday afternoons, resort to these groves 
and meadows, where scores of bands of various excellence, 
hundreds of little shows, and thousands of beer-tables help 
to provide that sort of recreation which is universally popu- 
lar among the Germans. This people must have their music, 
the lowliest as well as the others, and with the music usually 



152 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

something to eat and drink. In Dresden, on the beautiful 
Terrace overlooking the Elbe, we heard Trenkler's well- 
known orchestra play the finest music, for fifty pfennigs 
apiece. In Berlin, in the superb gardens outside the Kunst 
Austellung, devoted to modern paintings, we took our sup- 
per one evening, seated between two military bands, one of 
which began a selection as soon as the other had ceased 
playing. This sort of double concert delighted us also at 
the Berlin Fair, and again in the spacious Zoological Garden. 
For seventy-five pfennigs' admission, one evening, at the 
Berlin Exposition, we listened to the orchestra which has 
bewitched many nations, under the magical leadership of 
Edouard Strauss. I never realized the hunger which seems 
to accompany the German's enjoyment of music, so fully as 
after the second act of the opera of " Carmen," performed 
at Kroll's, in the Berlin Thiergarten. The immense re- 
freshment room was crowded during the intermission by 
many hundreds, who besieged the tables like newsboys at 
a Christmas dinner. But our highest musical pleasures were 
reached in Dresden, in the operas of " Tannhauser " and 
"Mignon," given at the new Court Opera House. The 
Dresden opera is one of the finest in Europe ; the orchestra 
is unsurpassed, the scenery and choruses superb, and the 
enthusiasm awakened by Wedekind and Scheidemantel was 
fervent and continuous. We had excellent seats for hearing 
and seeing, for fifty cents each, and the operas began at the 
merciful hours of seven and half-past seven. 

The out-door life and delight in music to which I have 
been referring, however unfamiliar, and it may be distaste- 
ful, some phases of this life may seem to most Americans, 
have a large influence on the German character, helping 
toward that placidity, good-nature, and general content- 
ment which distinguish them from us. Contentment like 
this among an educated people, who have very limited op- 
portunities and very meagre incomes, is surely a wonderful 
thing in this closing decade of the nineteenth century. I 
scarcely know what the poor German would do without 



GERMANY'S CAPITAL. 153 

his favorite amusements ; and the Germans are a poor 
people compared with the French and Enghsh, and espe- 
cially with the Americans. Prussia, the most prosperous 
part of Germany, has a population of thirty-eight millions. 
Last year only twenty-eight and four-fifths per cent of all 
the families in Prussia (reckoning five and twenty-nine 
hundredths persons to a family) had an income of over 
nine hundred marks (two hundred and twenty-five dollars). 
Consequently seventy-one and one-fifth per cent of all the 
Prussian families had incomes of less than two hundred and 
twenty-five dollars, making thus for the latter class, if all 
reached this maximum, an income per person of forty- 
three dollars. Ponder this fact, that, roughly speaking, 
twenty-eight million five hundred thousand people, in the 
best educated country in the world, exist on an income of 
not more than forty-three dollars a year. But it must be 
remembered that the Germans are extremely economical 
and provident, and can often get as much out of a mark as 
we get out of a dollar, and they give one the appearance of 
a happy and prosperous people. 

Any one who attempts to see the art treasures in the old 
and new museums and in the various palaces ; the modern 
pictures in the Kunst-Ausstellung (which, by the way, is 
almost equal in interest to the Paris salons) ; the military 
and other exhibits in the arsenal ; the vast store of histori- 
cal curiosities in the HohenzoUern Museum, including the 
household paraphernalia of all the Prussian rulers ; the ex- 
hibition of fine industrial art, not to mention the various 
scientific museums connected with the university, — will 
discover, in the weariness of his feet and the confusion of 
his brain, that Berlin has shown a noble rage for collecting 
almost equal to that of Dresden or Paris. 

In going to galleries sensible people must make selec- 
tions of what they care most to see. Thus they may get 
some satisfaction, and not be merely stupefied by miles of 
canvases. In the old museum in Berlin you may study Frans 
Hals as nowhere else, and find in Murillo's St. Anthony one 



154 



A WORLD-PILGKIMAGE. 



of the masterpieces of art. I never have seen another gal- 
lery with seventeen fine Rembrandts in one room. 

The Old Palace has a series of rooms rich and dazzling in 
crystal, gold, and silver, and containing some immense can- 
vases which ought not to be passed over. The great Jewish 
synagogue, the finest in the world, is worthy of a visit, as is 
also the neighboring Stock Exchange and Board of Trade, 
both together, where we saw two thousand Berliners trying 
to buy and sell things. If you lunch at the Caf6 Bauer, 
do not fail to call for ham and eggs, said by good judges 
to be the best in Europe. And if you hear that the Em- 
peror is to drive down the Unter den Linden, wait for him 
to pass, for he is not wont to disappoint the people. We 
saw him driven behind two white horses to the Old Palace, 
— driven rapidly, too, but not too rapidly to be caught in 
the camera which a member of our quartet aimed at him. 

We spent a half-day at Charlottenburg, the beautiful 
suburb which is now really a part of the city. The royal 
palace, a quarter of a mile in length, is barely worth the 
time it takes to slide on big felt slippers over its polished 
floors ; but the mausoleum near by, in which are buried 
Frederick William III. and Queen Louise and the old Em- 
peror WiUiam and the Empress Augusta, should be visited. 
It seems to be the most attractive place in Germany, judging 
from the reverent crowds constantly passing in and out of it. 

But Potsdam, the Prussian Versailles, deserved the busy 
and happy day we gave to it. A fast train took us out in 
about twenty minutes. We found the city, so dear to 
Frederick the Great, charming in the extreme. The lakes, 
which are the expansion of the river Havel, and the hills, 
covered with forests, give to Potsdam a beauty which, from 
its situation, does not belong to Berlin. We could not 
enter the new palace, as the Kaiser was then in residence. 
But we saw the palace of an earlier date crowded with in- 
teresting memorials of the great Frederick, less interesting to 
me, however, than a little bronze statue of Thomas Carlyle. 
We visited Frederick's grave, in the Garrison Church, a very 



GERMANY'S CAPITAL. 155 

plain and cellar-like sepulchral chamber, where the great 
Napoleon had been before us. In the Church of Peace we 
saw the tomb and monument to the present Emperor's un- 
fortunate father, Frederick the Noble. But almost every one 
knows that the chief interest of Potsdam centres in the great 
park and the picturesque palace of Sans Souci. The palace 
is of only one story, but its situation at the head of a suc- 
cession of terraces is so fine that one is not surprised that 
Frederick the Great lived there most of his royal life. Here 
it was that Voltaire kept company with the great soldier and 
king, the real founder of the German Empire, who had so 
little regard for Germany that he always spoke and wrote in 
French. You really get close both to Voltaire and to 
Frederick, the shrewd man of iron will, as the intelligent 
guide leads you through the rooms of Sans Souci. A 
visit to the extensive and interesting orangery, and a 
drive by several royal and princely villas to the Chateau of 
Babelsberg, a favorite residence of William the Great, as 
they are now beginning to call the old Kaiser, ended our 
visit in Potsdam, although, after our return, the indefatiga- 
bles felt that some music in the Thiergarten was the only 
proper ending of the day. 

But comparatively few Americans appear to care much 
for Berlin. The great tides of travel flow to London, across 
the channel to Paris, and up the Rhine to Switzerland. It 
must be said of Berlin that it lacks interesting history. The 
English and French capitals, like Rome and Athens, are 
haunted by the great forms of the past. The religious wars 
of France and the series of French revolutions have given 
to the streets of Paris a kind of interest which does not 
belong to Berlin. But as nations grow more prosperous, as 
the world sweeps into the ampler day, one kind of history 
dwindles. The world's new capitals, whether on the shores 
of the Spree or the banks of Lake Michigan, must find their 
glory in the things of the spirit. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

FAREWELL TO GERMANY. 

' I ""HE other day I took my little children to see the 
famous Career, in which university offenders are im- 
prisoned, and also to visit the Museum of Gottingen An- 
tiquities. On the door of the prison some wag has painted 
the words, "The Lord bless thy going in." There are 
four small rooms, each furnished with bed, chair, and table 
for the accommodation of the brave student who has ap- 
peared on the street with his duelling wounds unhealed, or 
who has disturbed the quiet of the night with his drunken 
pranks. Arrested by the police, the offender shows his 
student's card, and is handed over to the university Pedells. 
It is considered no disgrace, but almost an honor, to have 
spent a few nights, or perhaps a week, in the Career. In 
Jena the student is sometimes driven in a carriage and 
escorted by his friends to his dungeon, and the mothers 
supply as many good things to eat as an American mur- 
derer would be apt to receive. While it is no disgrace to 
have been in the Career, it is a disgrace and a lasting injury 
to have been on the records of the state police. Those 
thus offending must serve an extra year in the army. The 
walls of the Career are covered with the artistic work of the 
prisoners, — immense profile heads of themselves, the caps 
and coats of arms of the various student societies, grotesque 
forms of animals, and plenty of comic doggerel. The coat 
of arms of the United States is not lacking in the midst of 
these mural decorations. Such imprisonments do not jus- 
tify any interference by the State Department at Washing- 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. 1 57 

ton. The Career is a German institution, and nothing Hke 
it could probably be domesticated in America. 

More interesting still is the neighboring Museum of Got- 
tingen Antiquities, where the German Frau exhibits the 
doors of the old Career, on one of which the young Count 
von Bismarck carved his name during his hours of solitary 
meditation. Here you may see a picture of the walled town 
of Gottingen besieged by Tilly, during the Thirty Years' War, 
his red artillery flashing fire from the adjacent hills, but all 
in vain. Here are many relies of mediaevalism, the iron 
frames in which the bodies of criminals were suspended, 
immense stocks where the feet of four men could be held 
fast at one time, models of some of the castles, strange old 
rusted cannon and cannon-balls, from the religious wars of 
the seventeenth century, coins bearing the head of Marcus 
Aurelius and dug up in this vicinity, carved beams from the 
old houses, the Poor Sinners' Bell, that tolled at the execu- 
tion of criminals, covered sedan-chairs, in which professors 
used to be carried, portraits of the learned teachers of the 
last century, with their heavy white wigs, some splendid 
spoils from the old Catholic churches, and many cos- 
tumes of former times. Such a museum is extremely 
valuable to the local antiquary, and I should counsel stu- 
dents to become familiar with it early in their residence 
here. It will help the imagination to people the streets^ 
with the men and women of former generations, and to 
bring back the figures and military costumes of the strong 
cruel men who once held the neighboring castles, Plesse, 
Hardenberg, Hanstein, and the Gleichen. There is a 
strange attractive power about these ruins. The towers 
of Plesse, two leagues to the north, are monuments of 
a semi-barbatous feudalism which has forever vanished. 
Plesse is the queen of the Leine valley, and a most delight- 
ful and picturesque point for excursionists. 

"On a wooded comely mount 

Stands the Plesse, old and gray ; 
Proudly rise the lonely towers, 
In the landscape, far away." 



158 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

The strong castle has had a long and stormy history. It 
was besieged and taken in the Thirty Years' War, but it 
had six hundred years of history before that terrible time. 
The spirit which ruled in the castle was the spirit of the 
robber. The haughty old barons were fierce birds of prey, 
perched on a crag which gave them wide observation of 
the merchants who pursued their journeys up and down the 
valley. The names of these baronial thieves have vanished 
from the earth, — 

" Save that these two ruined towers, 
Grim memorials of the past, 
Stand yet in gloomy pride 
On the mountain, strong and fast." 

The honest traders of peaceful Gottingen and the out- 
raged peasant-folk became weary of submission to the 
galling yoke of the robber-tyrant, and so they stormed the 
castle, hanged the baron from his own tower, put firebrands 
into his stronghold, tumbled down his cruel walls and gloomy 
prisons, and " rooted out the robber nest." And here comes 
in the story of how Lady Maria Plesse, unwilling to be cap- 
tured, mounted her horse," and, clasping her infant to her 
breast, sped away toward the neighboring castle of Har- 
denberg. But, beset by armed men on every hand, and 
determined not to commit herself and her boy to the mob, 
she turns her steed toward a lofty precipice, and with whip 
and spur urges the courser to spring thirty feet into the air 
and down to the rocky road beneath. Mother, child, and 
horse, marvellous to relate, are not crushed to death, but 
escape ; and the pursuers give many a brave hurrah for the 
brave deed nobly done. The place of this adventure is the 
famous Maria Spring, where on every Wednesday afternoon 
of the summer the students and young women of Gottingen 
assemble for the merry dance in the open air and beneath 
the spreading trees. Who shall say that the picturesque- 
ness of German history does not rival the picturesqueness 
of German scenery? 

Not long ago I spent a morning with my son in walking 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. 1 59 

through the immense Gottingen Hbrary. Its ha]f-million 
books gave the boy an overwhehnmg impression of the 
amomit of thinking and writing that has been done in the 
world. Here is a room crowded with dictionaries ; here is 
a collection of thousands of bound newspaper volumes ; 
that alcove is given up to German hymn-books ; here are 
immense alcoves devoted to American history, with larger 
ones given to English and German history ; here is a room 
sacred to manuscripts. One immense section is given up 
to romances in many languages. Here is the great room 
where the poet Goethe studied for six months. It contains 
marble busts of many eminent scholars. Standing before 
the bust of Ritschl, the guide said to us : '•' He had many 
friends ; he had many enemies." We were shown the 
alphabetical catalogue, in six hundred folio volumes. Per- 
haps the library, next to the university professor, is the 
most characteristic feature, in the whole higher life of 
Germany. 

People come here to increase their knowledge of the 
German language, a key to some of the chief intellectual 
treasures of mankind. I have heard much talk about learn- 
ing German. It is a wide field for earnest and humorous 
discussion. There are some Americans here who have 
really made great progress in mastering one of the most 
difficult and unnatural of languages. The ease with which 
Germans learn to speak English fluently is in vivid contrast 
with the wearisome slowness with which most mature Ameri- 
cans learn to speak German. But some of my countrymen 
of youthful years are speedily initiated into the mysteries of 
German conversation. My two older children adopted one 
of the best methods of accomplishing good results. For 
six months they were persistent students in a small family 
school where no word of English was permitted. Learn- 
ing several lessons a day, reciting passages given for memo- 
rization, writing grammatical exercises, hearing only German 
lectures and sermons, talking at the table and in the afternoon 
walks with the teachers, receiving German callers, playing 



l60 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

German games, reading German story-books, — they gained 
a ready and accurate use of conversational speech in a much 
shorter time than those who subject themselves to a less 
severe discipline. Many students come here chiefly to learn 
the technical vocabulary of some one department of knowl- 
edge, and they are quickly surpassed, in the facile use of 
ordinary speech, by young children. My son Arthur, twelve 
years old, has been for six months in the Realschule, and 
for two months has had two hours a day with a young Ger- 
man woman, walking and talking. Little Eleanor, six years 
old, has had this same teacher, and has had about five 
months in a German kindergarten. Both of them now 
speak German fluently, and understand ordinary conversa- 
tion easily. They even dream and talk in their sleep in the 
new language. What they have learned they have gained 
without the painful eff'ort necessary to older people. We 
were amused to hear Eleanor remark, " I thought German 
was hard at first, but now it 's just as easy ! " In learning 
languages, as in the Kingdom of Heaven, a little child shall 
lead them. Germans themselves rarely realize how diffi- 
cult their tongue is. A young Englishman was engaged to 
a German girl, and he confided to her that he never could 
tell when he should use " mich " and when " mir." " Oh, 
both are right!" said she, "but ' mir ' is a little more 
comme il fautr'' A young American woman in Gottingen 
having a cold in her chest wished to consult a doctor; 
but first she consulted her dictionary, and discovered that 
one word for chest is *' Schrank," which means a chest of 
dravvers or wardrobe. Imagine the surprise of the physician 
when the young lady said to him, " I have a bad pain in 
my wardrobe ! " 

One of the experiences, both annoying and amusing, which 
we have had in Germany, rose from the difficulty in getting 
shop-keepers and dressmakers to send in their bills. In 
one case we have for three months and as many as a dozen 
times urgently, earnestly, pleadingly asked for the account, 
but in vain. We have spent days and travelled miles in the 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. l6l 

endeavor to pay our bills before leaving Gottingen. The 
theory is that the sending of a bill implies distrust, and 
the longer the delay, the greater the honor done the pur- 
chaser. I feel that I am held in high esteem in this com- 
munity ! Students' bills in this university have been known 
to run for forty-five years. Americans are not pleased with 
the unbusinesslike habits, the wearisome slowness, the fre- 
quent shiftlessness, and the almost unvarying failure to fulfil 
promises, in the making of clothes and the delivery of 
goods, discoverable among this people. 

Physicians here do not render any bills. It is not con- 
sistent with their ideas of dignity. One must inquire dih- 
gently of the initiated as to the amount that should be sent. 
The whole system appears to me unworthy. This '^What 
you please, Sir," business is unmanly. It seems almost like 
part of the " tipping " system. If the medical laborer is 
worthy of his hire, he ought to be willing to indicate the 
amount he expects to receive. Some strange performances 
occur under this way of doing things. I know a young 
American over here, whose wife during a severe illness 
had been faithfully and skilfully attended by an eminent 
physician in a great city. This American, Mr. K., calling 
on the doctor, thanked him for his services, and asked him 
what he should pay. " I could n't think of taking any- 
thing," was the answer. Mr. K. insisted that he could not 
receive such services gratuitously, and finally the physician 
said that he might be willing to receive a gift. Mr. K. ex- 
pressed his satisfaction, and asked if books or curios would 
be acceptable. The doctor said he had a passion for Persian 
rugs, and the two went off together to a shop to find a rug 
costing the eighty thalers which Mr, K. said that he would 
be glad to give. The doctor consulted the rug-dealer pri- 
vately, and then four beautiful rugs, each costing, however, 
eighty-five thalers, were shown to the American. He with 
difficulty beat the man down to eighty thalers, and then the 
physician departed with his rug. Mr. K. was dehghted with 

the Persian fabrics, and said he would take the remaining 

II 



1 62 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

three at eighty-five thalers each. The dealer was direfully 
distressed, and was compelled to confess that the rugs were 
worth one hundred and thirty thalers, and that the physician 
had arranged with him to pay the difference between that 
sum and whatever the American was willing to offer. Mr. 
K. did not buy, and he realized that in beating down the 
price he had compelled the high-toned, benevolent doctor 
to pay five thalers more than he had schemed to give ! 

One of our great surprises in Germany has been the rough 
discipHne to which the boys in the Realschule, where my 
son attends, are subjected. I do not wonder that visitors, 
unless provided with a permit from the Cultus-Minister 
in Berlin, are excluded from this school. The teachers 
cuffing the boys' heads and using heavy rattans with great 
vigor on their shoulders, punishing in these ways for the 
lightest offences, display their own cruel and domineering 
tempers, and promote those habits of subjection to authority 
everywhere taught in Germany. My son reports that half 
his class are sometimes in tears during a morning. He 
gave us the names and offences of sixteen whom he saw 
castigated during a two hours' session. Some of the offences 
were, failure to hold a pen correctly, looking at the book 
while the teacher was talking, handling the objects on the 
desk, making a wrong answer in the written paper, and 
other school crimes equally grave. Only the German boys, 
I should add, are beaten in this rude way. These things in 
regard to German school-life are worth mentioning as an- 
other illustration of the fact that we have here the reign of 
physical force. The army is omnipotent ; officers of the 
army outrank socially even the professors of the universities, 
and we are sometimes told that when America equals Ger- 
many in civilization, she too will have a great military force. 
Judged by most of the tests of civilization given by Lord 
Russell in his Saratoga address, I have no hesitation in say- 
ing that our republic already outranks this military empire. 

The American Colony gave its departing members a cor- 
dial send-off at the Gottingen station. The day was bright, 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. 1 63 

apparently in cheerful augury of our long travels. The hap- 
piest people at the station seemed to be the baggagemen, 
when they discovered an overweight of four hundred kilos 
in our luggage. It is not easy for all of my countrymen to 
distinguish the weights and measures of the decimal system. 
One of our colony always reports her weight as seventy-one 
kilometers, and another seriously informed a friend that it 
was six liters to the summit of the Brocken ! But he must 
have stopped at all the restaurants. Bremen, the free and 
prosperous, afforded us in Hillman's Hotel almost American 
comfort. 

Two of my family, of whom I was one, did not let the 
late hour of arrival prevent a visit to the famous Rathskeller, 
the smoky paradise of the wine-bibbers. Here we saw the 
Twelve Apostles, as the twelve wine-casks are named, filled 
with vintages, some of them dating back more than two 
hundred years. The guide informed us that they did not 
draw wine from the cask named Judas, making an exception, 
however, by special request in the case of the late Emperor 
Frederick. We saw the wine-room called the Rose, cele- 
brated in one of Heine's poems, so named from the im- 
mense red rose painted upon the ceiling. As we stood 
beneath this queen of flowers, the omniscient etymological 
guide informed us that we now understood the origin of the 
expression " sub rosa " ! In one of the cellars a great wine- 
cask, with its carved and gilded end, preaches a good tem- 
perance sermon, for on it are four most disreputable faces, 
cut in wood, one of which represents the wine-devil, quite 
as ugly as any whiskey fiend, while three others show us the 
wine-drinker before midnight, at midnight, and the next 
morning. 

A ride of nearly two hours on the tender took us from 
Bremerhaven down the Weser channel, to where our good 
ship, the "Trave," lay at anchor. Our experience on this 
neat and well- managed boat of the North German Lloyd 
Company renewed all my enthusiasm for this splendid line 
of steamers. The Lloyd can give lessons to some of the 



164 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

English ships in the art of making American travellers com- 
fortable and happy. 

In bidding Germany good-by, I wish to record a few 
conclusions which I have reached in regard to the compara- 
tive merits of German and American civilization. At the 
outset let me say that I am convinced that the use of alcohol 
as a beverage is in certain respects a far more serious evil 
in America than here. The universal drink in Germany is 
a mild beer. The sale of beer and the drinking of it are 
precisely as respectable as the sale and drinking of tea and 
coffee with Americans. It must be truly said of this drink 
that the use of it is often connected with the quiet delights 
of outdoor recreation. Its intoxicating power is very small 
compared with that of American beers. It is cheaper than 
tea and coffee, and takes their place in the humble repasts 
of the poor. Such an institution as the American saloon, 
the ally and tool of corrupt politics, the haunt of criminals, 
the destroyer of homes, is not found here. So far as I can 
discover, lawlessness is no more associated with the sale of 
beer than with the sale of sugar and tobacco. The pernicious 
habit of " treating " does not exist in Germany. 

On the other hand, it must be said that the excessive use 
of beer leads to drunkenness. I have seen nearly a dozen 
intoxicated persons on the streets of this town. People 
have told me that at the time of the Schuetzenfest large 
numbers were seen mildly drunk. The horrible forms of 
intoxication leading so frequently in England and America 
to brutal crimes, apparently are rare in Germany. But the 
excessive use of beer, which is not uncommon, has a stupe- 
fying and sometimes a brutalizing effect. It is pitiful and 
shocking to see so many young men, some of them students, 
who have manifestly coarsened their natures by the plentiful 
use of this beverage. I believe it to be one of the enemies 
of the happiest family life. Although families drink together 
in the caf^s and gardens, still, to a large extent, the men do 
not spend their evenings in the household, but in social 
circles where much beer is taken, a few words are spoken. 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. 1 65 

and some songs are sung. It is also an enemy of the 
best Christian life. A nation that finds one of its chief 
pleasures in beer is not apt to be particularly responsive to 
the spirit and appeals of the Gospel. The pastor of the 
Reformed Church in Gottingen told me that it is almost im- 
possible to get his young people together for an evening 
meeting of any kind. The young men, following the 
example of university life, have their " Kneipen," or drink- 
ing-parties. Americans who have been in Germany a long 
time have seen ample evidences of evil from the prevalent 
drinking customs. The amount of money wasted is im- 
mense, although the average consumption in Germany is 
less than in England. Certain diseases doubtless are pro- 
duced by this favorite drink. 

I have sometimes intimated that Germany is the best 
governed country that I know. Paternal government here 
shows its most favorable aspects. To a large degree the 
people are cared for. Slums are not found, even in Berlin. 
Darkest London and darkest New York would be impossible 
here. There is no marked separation of classes in their 
places of residence. Rich and poor occupy the same block 
and different parts of the same building. The streets in the 
various quarters of the great and small cities have seemed to 
me equally clean. I have looked in vain, for the last seven 
months, to see people whose clothes were ragged. There 
are plenty of poor and patched garments, but they are 
carefully mended. Sewing is taught in the schools. 

But, acknowledging all the good results of paternal gov- 
ernment, I must confess that the evils of it are also appar- 
ent. The Germans are governed, and they expect to be 
governed, and like' to be governed, and they would now be 
at a great loss if, to any large extent, they were asked to 
govern themselves. There is, of course, an imperial parlia- 
ment, but some years ago Bismarck bluntly told its mem- 
bers, who were slow in consenting to the imperial policy, 
that they were there for counsel and not for dictation. 
The nation has a horror of disorder. It has now attained 



1 66 A WORLD-PILGRJMAGE. 

to unity. It believes that a strong central government is 
its only protection from powerful enemies, and seems to 
imagine that constant restriction of individual liberty and 
individual initiative is essential to permanent order. The 
nightmares of the Thirty Years' War and the various French 
revolutions appear to be still hanging over this German 
land. Police surveillance, universal restriction of freedom 
in the expression of opinion, and imperial initiative, — 
these, with a ubiquitous standing army and heavy taxes, 
are leading features of German national life. At one time 
during the last summer more than forty persons were in 
German prisons for the crime of Icse-majeste. I am told 
that these crimes against the sovereign power were usually 
petty offences. Two professors of German universities are 
now in jail for teaching in their lecture-rooms a history not 
pleasing to the powers that be. Few Germans would dare 
to say in a public meeting that they believed Bismarck to 
be a greater man than the present Kaiser, " The divinity 
that doth hedge a king " must here be sacredly respected. 

Yet Bismarck doubtless is the popular hero of Germany. 
Pictures of him are almost as common as of the old Em- 
peror William. Memorials of him are everywhere cher- 
ished. He is the supreme embodiment of German force 
and shrewd far-seeing intelligence, and he accomplished 
the great work which was the prime necessity of his genera- 
tion. But in regard for liberty, in the passion for right- 
eousness, in sympathy for the oppressed, in true humanity, 
he is one hundred years behind the Christian statesman- 
ship of Mr. Gladstone. By his stony disregard for the 
suffering Christians of Armenia and Crete, he evidences 
one of the limitations of his nature. In saying, as he is 
reported to have done, that the children of Germany — 
who are very numerous indeed — would furnish food for 
cannon, he shows the temper of the First Napoleon rather 
than of Gladstone and Lincoln. 

Socialism thrives in Germany as nowhere else, partly on 
account of taxes and petty tyrannies, but also in part be- 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. 1 6/ 

cause of severe governmental restrictions. The police are 
present at socialistic meetings, and when the talking reaches 
a certain point, the meetings are dispersed. Yet more than 
forty socialists are in the German parliament. In England, 
however, where the chasm between the rich and the poor is 
wider than here, and where the people have more liberty of 
speech, assembly, and remonstrance, socialism does not 
flourish. I am told that there is scarcely a socialist in the 
British Parliament. A German professor in Berlin re- 
marked to an American friend that he had attended so- 
cialist meetings in London where half the speeches were in 
German. Experience has shown that it is much safer to 
give those who think they have a grievance the full liberty 
of airing it. That is not the theory or practice, however, 
in Germany. Force, force ! — one gets tired of this wor- 
ship of might. 

I have intimated previously that the range of intellectual 
liberty is wider here than in America. Men may think, 
speak, and print what they please on every scientific, philo- 
sophical, and religious question, up to the point where the 
speaking and printing touch anything that concerns the 
political or national life. Nothing must be done that might 
disturb the present order. Agitation, the " marshalling of 
the conscience of the nation for the making of its laws," is 
practically unknown. So tremendously is the average Ger- 
man disposed to take the side of the established govern- 
ment that oppressed populations uttering any cry of pain 
receive from him but little sympathy. The instinct of Ger- 
many is to side with Spain and not Cuba, with Turkey and 
not with Crete and Armenia. I do not mean to say that 
many Germans excuse the Armenian massacres, but I have 
heard some of them, people of high intelligence, do so on 
account of the alleged habit of Armenians of making them- 
selves rich at the expense of others. I have even heard 
them say that the German peasants of Hesse, who believe 
that they have been oppressed by Jewish money-lenders, 
would, if the government permitted them, butcher the 



1.68 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

whole Jewish population, men, women, and children ; and 
such a procedure was vehemently justified in my presence. 
Of course I put no faith in this slander of German peas- 
ants, and other Germans to whom I have submitted the 
case repudiate it with the utmost scorn. 

Under the present condition of things there cannot be 
any wide, active interest in political affairs. While Ger- 
many stands in the foremost rank in administration, in real 
pohtical development she seems to me to be one hundred 
years behind England, France, and America. A lack of 
the highest self-respect, of the ability of self-government, 
a lack of the power of initiative and the spirit of enter- 
prise and of independence, — such are some of the evils 
occasioned by an excess of government from above. The 
Germans know comparatively little of the better side of 
American life ; they are taught by learned professors that 
republics are, and must be, short-lived, and they hate Eng- 
land, " a democracy under the form of monarchy." The 
omnipresence of the soldier, and devotion to militarism, 
while they have some good effects, produce also demoraliz- 
ing consequences. The prevalence of illegitimacy in cities 
where great masses of soldiers are stationed is very well 
known. The children in the schools are taught such rever- 
ence for the government and the army that there is real 
peril lest the coming generation identify right with might. 
Even now it is apparent that the people are too apt to 
believe a thing wrong simply because it is forbidden, and 
to teach for divine doctrines the commandments of men. 

In the conclusions to which I have been led, and which 
I have just expressed, I do not mean to cancel any of the 
more favorable opinions of German life heretofore given. 
This is a great people, recently come to its own, standing 
in conscious and continual danger, and hence inclined to 
the undue worship of order and government. Would that 
America might catch a due portion of the German spirit in 
this regard ! Added to our enterprise, splendid indepen- 
dence, and faith in freedom, the German respect for law 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. 169 

would vastly aid the right development of our people. I 
think that the true German spirit is not patient under 
oppression. There are plenty of ruined castles all about 
Gottingen, which show what destruction was dealt out by 
the honest burghers to their lordly tyrants. It is said that 
when the corner-stone of any German castle was laid, a 
little child who never had spoken was buried alive beneath 
it, on account of the superstition that thus the castle would 
become impregnable. But the lordly structures built on 
buried innocency and broken hearts have been tumbled 
down. One has the feeling that there are a good many 
other castles of blood standing in the world to-day which 
are doomed to the fate of Plesse and Drachenfels. 

" Careless seems the great Avenger ; history's pages but record 
One death-grapple in the darkness 'twixt old systems and the Word." 

But the word of justice and humanity is bound to get the 
better of old systems in Russia and Turkey, in Germany 
and America, if they have not the enduring texture of 
righteousness. 

We have much to learn from Germany. Germany has 
even more to learn from us. Both must learn their lessons. 
Our entire American life is vitiated or endangered by rank, 
and it sometimes seems growing, lawlessness. If sectional 
lines are drawn wide and deep between East and West, 
North and South ; if the divisions between capital and labor, 
the rich and the poor, are embittered by the harangues of 
demagogues ; and if the rights of the national government 
to enforce its own laws are challenged successfully by the 
very spirit that fired on Fort Sumter, — the pessimistic pre- 
dictions of German professors in regard to our future may 
be in the way of incipient fulfilment. 

Few things strike an American so unfavorably in Germany 
as the general attitude of mind in regard to women. What- 
ever may be justly said of the great and wholesome influence 
of German women — and the case of the present Empress 
is in point — I do not find that women are as highly 



I/O A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

esteemed here as in America. The outward forms of polite- 
ness are more demonstrative ; but men look upon women 
as so much inferior to themselves intellectually that true 
companionship, real mental fellowship between men and 
women, appears to me less common than with us. From 
the beginning of the school-life there is a separation between 
boys and girls ; they are not treated in the same way during 
any part of their mental history. The lesson-book for the 
boy is not always the lesson-book for the girl. The young 
German women are in some respects more accomplished 
than their American sisters. They know more music, and 
they learn, and learn to speak, both English and French. 
But they are not treated to the more solid parts of learning 
to an equal degree with the American college girl. A few 
of the German universities now are partially open to women, 
but I have known German professors contemptuously to 
refuse the application of young women to enter their lecture- 
rooms. " Our lectures are for men," were their words, as 
they turned them away. There is the beginning of better 
things in Germany, but any such intellectual activity as we 
are familiar with in women's clubs in our great cities is not 
as yet found here. 

The present Kaiser uttered his preference in saying that 
woman's sphere should be " Kiiche, Kinder, Kirche," — 
a very important sphere, no doubt. The Empress's de- 
votion to the church is well known, and she is the mother 
of seven children, the youngest of whom is a daughter. 
The Emperor, however, was disappointed that the hne of 
boys was broken, as he wanted twelve sons to command 
twelve regiments ! It is quite impossible in a few words to 
describe what educated young American women feel in the 
atmosphere of a German university and in German society. 
They are more than ever grateful for the ideas prevailing 
and the opportunities opened on the western side of the 
Atlantic. 

It seems to Americans looking at the peasant women 
carrying their huge bundles and heavy baskets, while the 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. \'J\ 

men walk unburdened by their side, that true honor, which 
should be allied with helpful courtesy, is not here granted 
to women of the humble class. I know that the terrible 
wars of the past threw upon women the necessity of tilling 
the fields, and I am told that the peasant women to-day do 
not feel degraded by being made to do the work of beasts 
of burden. The time has come, however, for a change. 
German public sentiment ought not to approve what is 
witnessed every day, — sons and husbands loading the backs 
of their old mothers and wives with immense burdens, which 
the men do not share and would be ashamed to carry. 
Germany worships force, man represents physical strength, 
and are not the strong commanded to bear the burdens 
of the weak? 

I have been deeply interested in the church-life of 
Germany, if that can be called life which, to those familiar 
with American Christianity, appears often as slow as the 
singing of a German hymn. But there is life here in the 
great established churches, and in the non-established. 
Religion is faithfully taught, officially taught, and taught in 
the public schools as geography and mathematics are taught. 
Religion is a part of the national regime. It is closely 
allied with the state. But this is not an element of real 
strength. The churches play a much less important part in 
German life than in ours. So far as I can discover, the 
church has no social part to play in Germany. The chil- 
dren are baptized, well instructed in the fundamentals of 
religion, and "confirmed." Much is made of the church 
holy days, but comparatively little of Sunday. Church at- 
tendance, especially on the part of men, is very limited and 
infrequent. With a membership of nineteen hundred, the 
Reformed church in Gottingen gathers an audience averag- 
ing perhaps two hundred. The sense of individual respon- 
sibility, of which we make so much in America, and to which 
we appeal in the Christian life, is not so keen and potent in 
German Christendom. The fundamental and all-pervading 
trouble here, in every department of life, is that the people 



1/2 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

are governed. They wait for those who are placed over 
them, and depend on having things done for them. 

I have had fairly good opportunities of knowing some- 
thing of the German pulpit, having hstened to German 
preaching every Sunday that I have spent here, excepting 
two Sundays, when I preached myself. I have also read a 
number of German sermons of the higher order. Great 
Britain, France, and America have some things to teach the 
German pulpit. One of its faults is monotony. Another is 
a lack of fresh, vital material in discourses. There is a 
faithful treading of the old round of evangelical thought, 
and from this round there are infrequent departures. 
The Lutheran church is too stereotyped. The pulpit 
does not get a strong hold of the life of to-day. The 
government instructs the ministers not to meddle with 
politics, but to attend strictly to religion, which means that 
religious matters touching the great life of the present gen- 
eration are largely excluded. The proportion of men at- 
tending church is small. One who has listened in his youth 
to the usual round of pulpit instruction, would very likely 
expect in his middle life to hear about the same things 
repeated. Manuscripts are not used in the German pulpit, 
and this is more of a loss than a gain. If the preachers had 
the habit of writing elaborately, they would put more fresh 
thought into their discourses, and make them better worth 
hearing. Speaking without writing and without notes, they 
are apt to touch the surface of things and to repeat ideas 
most familiar to them and to their hearers. The best ser- 
mons of England and America are either written or are 
delivered by men who have had a long and careful training 
in writing sermons. Such preaching one does not hear or 
expect to hear in Germany. This grand old land of Luther 
needs many John Wesleys. It needs, too, a missionary 
revival. It needs to be shaken out of its old-time ruts. 

The elements wherein America and England are, as I 
think, superior to Germany have come directly or indirectly 
from Puritanism, by which I mean the grand spiritual dis- 



FAREWELL TO GERMANY. 1 73 

cipline which has blessed EngUsh- speaking peoples for the 
last two hundred and fifty years. Puritanism has dethroned 
kings, or taken from them all but the semblance of power ; 
has developed personal responsibility, and hence manhood 
and womanhood ; has exalted the individual above the state, 
and has inspired, as nothing else, the love of universal 
humanity. We go away from Germany with kindly and 
grateful feelings toward her people, with reverence for her 
greatness, with admiration of her scholarship, with confi- 
dence in her future ; but we sing of America, in words that 
are not yet fully suited to the German spirit, — 

" Long may our land be bright 
With freedom's holy light ; 
Protect us by thy might, 
Great God, our King ! " 



CHAPTER XIV. 

OLD ENGLAND. 

' I ""HE greatest event of our voyage was the sight of a rare 
-*- phenomenon, which Captain Thalenhorst said he had 
not seen before for years. It was a gigantic waterspout, 
reaching to the clouds. At first we saw on the surface of 
the sea, perhaps a mile away, what looked like a whirhng 
pillar of steam. From the dark sky above there reached 
down a strange, snake-like cloud-finger, which may have 
been half a mile in length. As the ship drew nearer, we 
saw that this cloud in the heavens was connected with the 
phenomenon on the sea. Had we struck it and the whirl- 
ing vortex thus been broken, an immense quantity of water 
would have deluged our ship. A small vessel in a huge 
waterspout would have had no chance of escaping wreck. 
Three other snaaller waterspouts came into view. The first 
and greatest soon disappeared, doing no damage and be- 
coming only a strange memory. It reminded me of the 
clouds of popular delusion born of whirling and blind fury 
which sometimes overhang and threaten a nation's life and 
honor. God grant that the American ship of state may not 
be overwhelmed in any whirling cataract of popular igno- 
rance and prejudice ! 

I never have seen a finer morning -ise on the world of 
waters than dawned upon us as our ship passed between 
the chalky cliffs of Dover and the shor^^s of France. Our 
hearts went out to Mother England, and we shared in the 
Englishman's pride as we looked on tl is precious island 
jewel set in the circlet of the northern seas. At South- 
ampton we were taken up to the new docks, where we 



OLD ENGLAND. 1 75 

found three friends waving us welcome. After the ordeal 
of bidding good-by to our four children, with no expecta- 
tion of seeing them again until the world had been com- 
passed, we saw the good ship bear them from our sight 
toward the American shores. The custom-house has no 
great terrors in England, and we were soon driving under 
the Norman arch of the Bar Gate, for more than eight 
centuries the north portal of Southampton. Before reach- 
ing the station, we had another fine view of the harbor, 
which has become an important entrance to England. 

Southampton awakens memories of many ancient voyages. 
From its harbor Richard of the Lion Heart and his mail- 
clad crusaders sailed for the rescue of the Holy Land. 
This is the port from which brave Henry V. and his arch- 
ers set out for the fateful fight of Agincourt. And here the 
Pilgrim Fathers found the "Mayflower" and the "Speed- 
well," and went out, not knowing whither they went, but 
carrying in their brave hearts the future of America. If one 
of their ships had not proved unseaworthy, compelling them 
to sail to Plymouth, and to crowd the fathers and mothers 
of the coming nation into one little ship, they might have 
given another name than Plymouth to the community which 
they planted on the wild New England shore. 

I found my old enthusiasm for England returning as we 
were whirled along, without a single stop, through Win- 
chester, with its great cathedral; by Aldershot, with its 
busy encampment of soldiers, toward London, the great 
commercial heart of the world, — London, that stirs my 
imagination on this my seventh visit as deeply as at the 
first. What men have lived and wrought here by the thou- 
sand-masted Thames ! It is the city that reaches back to 
Roman times, to the days of Caesar and his imperial suc- 
cessors. It is the city of Wilham the Conqueror and of 
Elizabeth, the city of Shakespeare, Raleigh, and Milton, of 
Bacon and Cromwell, of Addison and Johnson, of Carlyle 
and Browning, Dickens and Macaulay, of Wellington, Pitt, 
Gladstone, of Wilberforce and Shaftesbury and General 



1/6 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Booth. It is the city of immeasurable wealth and immeasur- 
able poverty. It is the city in whose Westminster Abbey 
you feel as nowhere else the glory and soUdarityof English- 
speaking nations, but in whose darkest haunts of poverty 
and distress you feel as nowhere else the weight of woe 
which bears down one-tenth of the population in this nine- 
teenth century of Christian humanity. Within two hours 
after my arrival I saw more evidences of suffering than I 
had seen during all my months in Germany, — ragged men 
following the cab and reaching out their hands for a few 
pennies before the opening and shutting of the cab door ; 
others hurrying up to the vehicle, hoping to take some 
part in the removal of the luggage. These men are our 
own near kin, and one's heart goes out to them with a pity 
which Italian beggars rarely call forth. 

England was bright with sunshine until we reached Lon- 
don. And here the sun is visible, a red ball of fire in the 
smoky air, shorn of his redundant beams. There is no 
such scrupulous cleanliness in the English capital as one 
finds in Paris and Berlin, nor is there that comparative 
unity — or shall I say orderliness — in architecture, which 
is possible in the streets of European cities, where the 
initiative and direction come from above. In London we 
have a glaring exhibition of that individualism which is 
characteristic of the Anglo-Saxon mind, which goes with 
personal freedom, and which in a commercial people looks 
to so-called practical ends and cares httle for symmetry 
and beauty. I love London, but the modern city seems 
uglier as well as greater on every visit, and this is especially 
noticeable when one comes to England from the Continent. 
I understand now why Taine and the other French writers 
have been so impressed with the gloom and unloveliness of 
London. This is the city of Colman's mustard, Venus soap, 
and Stephens's ink, and of unlimited advertisements. I 
have not yet seen the idol temples of India, but probably 
next to them in barbarous ughness are the London omni- 
buses, covered all over with colossal, flaring announcements 



OLD ENGLAND. I'J'J 

of things to see and things to sell. But the omnibus is a 
great and useful friend, and there 's a hideous grandeur 
about long lines of these huge, clumsy vehicles, filled and ^ 
covered with passengers, lumbering steadily up and down 
High Holborn and Oxford streets. 

We soon found lodgings near the British Museum, and 
have been the envy of our friends, who are living in such 
great hostelries as the Hotel Royal and the Hotel Cecil. 
By the way, this latter hotel, on the Thames embankment, % 
has recently been completed, and is almost as splendid as 
anything of the kind to be seen in New York. The bril- 
liant Indian dining-room is worth a visit, and yesterday, as 
we lunched there, we looked out on one of the most im- 
pressive scenes in Europe. It included the Parliament 
Houses, the long, broad sweep of the Thames under three 
or four bridges, the beautiful gardens which once bordered 
the palaces of great English nobles, and the ever-interesting 
Cleopatra's Needle. This Egyptian obelisk has made a 
deep, though rather confused impression on the minds of 
cabmen, one of whom, an Irishman, said to an American 
lady : " This is St. Patrick's needle, dug from the Thames 
and erected up here in me own time. It is covered with 
inscriptions which no man can read, because they are written 
in the Latin language ! " 

Popular education has reached further in Germany than 
in England. The servant girl here, who brings up our 
coals and coffee, and who has lived all her life in Cam- 
bridge, informed us that she had cousins in America. I 
asked her where. " In Kane County." I told her that 
that was not very far from where I lived, in Chicago. 
And then came from her a question which should bring 
more shame to England than it brought to my municipal 
pride. She asked, " Is Chicago in America ? " 

Our ten days in England were most of them filled with 
sunshine. We purchased our India outfit ; I secured the 
copying of my lectures in most satisfactory shape, and we 
took some fresh observations of English life, usually from 

12 



178 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

a semi-German standpoint. Soldiers seemed to us scarce, 
and their costumes, especially their caps, less sensible and 
becoming than those of the Kaiser's army. The English 
tradesman is much more prompt than the German, and, 
though I am fond of English cooking for a time, I know a 
little restaurant in Gottingen where you can get a better 
steak than in all London. Of course we found food dearer 
and clothes cheaper than in America. We saw everywhere 
evidences that England is becoming sensitive to German 
competition. We heard something of agricultural distress 
in Great Britain ; but the chief distress is that of the sturdy 
English conscience over the atrocious, unspeakable, and — 
some of them, as Lord Rosebery has told us — unreadable 
and unprintable cruelties authorized by the Turkish govern- 
ment. Of that government Great Britain heretofore has 
been the main support ; but all good Englishmen are 
practically united to-day in a holy desire to be unchained 
from that loathsome body of death and pollution. The 
mental and moral delirium tremens of a few journals, Eng- 
lish and American, counts for nothing. A mighty breath 
of the highest Americanism swept over the great Armenian 
meeting which I attended, when Reverend Dr. Clifford, the 
eminent Baptist preacher, claimed that a concert of the 
peoples should take the place of the concert of the powers ; 
a rousing cheer went up when he exclaimed that to allow the 
destinies of Europe at this time to be controlled by half a 
dozen men was barbarism. I have seen one ray of humor in 
this tremendous and solemn agitation, — the announcement 
which I read of a notice given by an English clergyman that 
two meetings in behalf of the Armenians would be held in 
his church, and that " a collection would be taken up for 
the sufferers at both these services." It seemed to me to 
be as glorious now as in John Milton's time to behold a 
noble and puissant nation rousing herself from slumber and 
shaking her invincible locks. At this demonstration the 
most unsparing denunciation of England's land-grabbing 
policy, the Cyprus convention, and the miserable support 



OLD ENGLAND. 1 79 

to the Turkish tyranny pledged by Lord Beaconsfield, were 
vigorously applauded. That England ought to give up 
Cyprus, the price of oceans of Christian blood, was the 
general sense of this meeting. It is refreshing to know 
that private persons of distinction have sent back their 
decorations to the Great Assassin who gave them. The 
policy of unselfishness on England's part was urged by all 
the speakers. And I said to myself and to others, " If this is 
England, then it is glorious to be an Englishman." I am 
sure that the hearts of Americans have not for a twelve- 
month, perhaps not in this generation, been brought so 
close to the mother-island as during the progress of the 
present agitation. If it should be necessary, which God 
forbid, that England should raise her strong right arm in 
battle to protect outraged Armenia, every Christian heart 
in America will pray for her speedy and swift success. 
Such prayers would greatly help the moral and political 
alliance of the English-speaking nations, whose freedom, 
devotion to the Christian gospel, and powerful civilization 
are the main hope for mankind. If the war-ships must 
ever open fire on the treacherous tyrant of Constantinople, 
I, for one, should be glad, if above the smoke and thunder 
of the cannon were to be seen not only the red- cross flag 
of England, but also the stars and stripes of the great 
western Republic. Oh that the better England and the 
true America might find each other out ! There is an 
England that every righteous man should be willing to die 
for. It is said that a revolution would occur in Bavaria if 
the price of beer were unduly raised. But England is a 
country where a political revolution is possible, not on 
account of the suffering of her own people, but by reason 
of the oppressions inflicted on hapless Armenia. 

When in London I always make at least one visit to the 
National Gallery, and this year I found my way also to the 
new national portrait gallery, where one may look into the 
faces of the renowned men and women of Great Britain. 
Nor did I neglect my usual visit to Westminster Abbey, nor 



l8o A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

to that part of it which Mr. Beecher deemed " the most 
impressive place in the world," the Jerusalem Chamber. 
Here the crown jewels are brought twenty- four hours before 
every English sovereign's coronation, and here the bodies 
of the monarchs lie in state before their burial. That heavy 
table is made of wood from the Spanish Armada, and the 
cedar which panels the room was brought from Mount 
Lebanon to decorate it at the time of the marriage of 
Charles I. Here assembled the men who translated our 
Bible in King James's time, and the English committee who 
helped revise the translation in the Victorian age ; and here, 
for five years, sat the Puritan divines who gave us the 
Westminster Confession and Catechism, — grand men, in 
the days of the Long Parliament, who did for freedom and 
religion a service that is ever memorable. 

Dr. George F. Pentecost, for whom I preached on 
Sunday morning, delivered a sermon two weeks ago, in 
which he strongly advocated an Anglo-American Alliance. 
I think that Dr. Pentecost's heart is in America. And it 
would be a great reinforcement to the Christian life of one 
of our chief American cities to secure the services of this 
stalwart and large-hearted preacher. I ought to modify the 
statement of Dr. Pentecost's yearning for America by say- 
ing that he thinks and dreams much of India, where he had 
expected to spend the coming winter till his plans were 
altered by his failure to secure for the Marylebone Presby- 
terian Church the pulpit supply that he had in mind. At 
his dinner-table and in his parlor, which is decorated with 
objects of interest from India, I had much profitable talk 
with him about Christian work in the great Hindu cities. 

Sunday evening I lectured in Browning Hall for the Rev- 
erend F. Herbert Stead's Social Settlement. This is a new 
Christian movement in South London among the poorest 
non-criminal class. The work has a score of useful 
branches ; and the members of the Settlement, with whom 
we supped at the house of Mr. and Mrs. Stead, we found to 
be as bright-minded and happy-hearted friends of humanity 



OLD ENGLAND. l8l 

as one often sees. Mr. Stead, who is the very genius of 
Christian altruism, won my heart several years ago, and it 
was dehghtful to render even a slight service to his work 
and to listen to his penetrating and fair-minded comments 
on men and things. He is a loyal and hopeful friend of 
America, and has started a movement to make the Fourth 
of July a common holiday for English-speaking people, a 
festival in which they shall remember their unity rather than 
their divisions. One of Mr. Stead's assistants, Tom Bryan, 
a college man and a hosier, is busily fighting in a diphtheria 
crusade for his people, who are dying twenty times as fast 
from that scourge as they would if the sanitary arrangements 
of their houses were equally propitious with those of Lon- 
doners generally. The Tory papers are denouncing him 
as a "ranting radical," but he is in truth a brave, good- 
humored, and very practical enemy of disease and vice. 

Americans will do well to find out Browning Hall. It was 
formerly a. Congregational church, in which the great poet 
was christened, and of which his parents were members. 
He worshipped here almost up to the time when he wrote 
"Paracelsus." The Browning pew was in the gallery, and 
some of the richer families who had their seats in the body 
of the house sneeringly complained of the fuss made over 
the Brownings, who only sat upstairs ! This whole region 
has been changed of late years so that it is said now to be 
absolutely the poorest quarter of London. But it gave me 
a new feeling of the vigor of the English race when I saw 
these workingmen listening appreciatively to the best which 
I had to offer, and I gave them an address which I had 
found serviceable in American universities. 

I have had a golden day in Oxford, visiting with Pro- 
fessor J. Estlin Carpenter of Manchester Free College, Pro- 
fessor Max Miiller, and Principal Fairbairn of Mansfield 
College. I was sorry to learn that Doctor Fairbairn had 
given up his plan for a volume on Comparative Religion for 
the International Theological Library. Still, he hopes later 
to prepare a more elaborate work on the same important 



1 82 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

theme. Doctor Fairbairn is one of the foremost minds of 
Great Britain, and his services to theological scholarship 
have been large. What an admirable lecturer Principal 
Fairbairn would be before the educated minds of the 
Orient ! 

Professor Carpenter showed me Manchester New College, 
in which he is the leading instructor. This Unitarian foun- 
dation in Oxford seems to have been accepted without much 
pious grumbling. Professor Carpenter is far from being a 
destructive radical. His accurate and profound scholar- 
ship is joined to a sympathetic and vigorous religious nature 
which puts him into spiritual accord with a large variety of 
earnest souls. I have rarely met so manly and attractive 
a personality. He appeared to me to be the best type of 
an Englishman, and such men I find very friendly to what 
is highest in America. The library of Manchester College 
is worthy of Oxford on account of its beauty ; and so is the 
chapel, with its windows designed by Burne Jones and exe- 
cuted by the late William Morris. Professor Carpenter's 
house is one of those English homes, embowered in roses, 
which tempt many an American city pastor or professor to 
break the tenth commandm.ent ! 

Professor and Mrs. Max Miiller were as charming and 
gracious as I found them to be on my first visit to them, 
last summer. They had invited Professor and Mrs. Car- 
penter to meet me at luncheon, and the Indian talk was of 
rare interest. Max Miiller is a scholar on whom stars 
have been freely showered. He was recently made a mem- 
ber of the Queen's Privy Council, and is now a Right Hon- 
orable. As Dean of the foreign section of the French 
Academy, he was invited to Paris to meet the Czar. " I 
could not go," he said. " It was only an emperor ! " They 
were expecting to see the next day the brother of the King 
of Siam. Max Miiller does not like to travel. Last sum- 
mer I carried him invitations to go to America and to 
India. " Oh, no," he said ; " India and America come to 
me ! " He greatly liked the gentle Dharmapala, who has 



OLD ENGLAND. 1 8 3 

just paid him a visit. As he took our Buddhist friend to 
the station, a lot of boys gathered around, attracted by 
Dharmapala's Oriental clothing. He stopped and said to 
the boys, " I would like to tell you a story," and they 
eagerly listened to an Eastern tale told by this son of Cey- 
lon's Isle. And then Dharmapala said, "I want you all to 
make me a promise. It is this, — never to kill a fly." And 
most of the boys promised ! 

Wearing his weight of learning like a flower, never op- 
pressive, full of wit and good stories, an excellent listener 
as well as a remarkable talker, with a wife — a niece of 
Charles Kingsley — who represents all that is finest in Eng- 
lish womanhood, abounding in reminiscence and yet keenly 
alive to the passing hour. Max Miiller is one of the most 
delightful of men. In my first visit he was full of talk about 
Lowell and Wendell Holmes, and especially about Dean 
Stanley. 

'' I am the only layman," he said, " who ever preached 
in Westminster Abbey. Stanley asked me many times to 
preach for him, but I replied : ' I will do anything for 
you, except to break the law ! ' Then the Dean laid the 
case before Lord Chief Justice Coleridge, who gave the 
opinion that the Dean had a legal right to determine 
who should speak in the Abbey ; but he closed his letter 
by saying : ' While I do not doubt the legality of what 
you propose, I have said no word in favor of its expedi- 
ency.' Whereupon the brave Stanley wrote to the Lord 
Chief Justice : ' I did not seek your opinion upon its ex- 
pediency, but only upon its legality ! ' " Professor Max 
Miiller's recently published musical recollections came up 
before us at the table, and his wife assured us that her hus- 
band used to play most beautifully : but she confessed that 
he never could master the London underground railway. 
On a visit to George Eliot he overshot the station in one 
direction, then in another, and finally took a cab. 

He was particularly warm in his recollections of Charles 
Kingsley. After Kingsley's controversy with Newman, in 



1 84 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

which, as Max Miiller thought, he had the best of the cause 
and the worst of the argument, he lost some of his hold 
on the English people, regaining it, however, after his death. 
His publisher offered him only nine hundred pounds for the 
copyright of all his books. Fortunately Kingsley was in- 
duced to refuse the offer, and his wife received more than 
that amount from the sale of his works the first year after 
his death. 

Professor Miiller told us of the beautiful Greek girl Zoe, 
who used to come to his thinly attended lectures ; and in a 
few days the lectures became so popular that some of the 
young gentlemen were compelled to stand, so great was the 
sudden interest in Sanscrit literature. This young woman 
afterward became the wife of the Archbishop of York. I 
was kindly shown the decorations which the learned profes- 
sor has received from European sovereigns, which, however, 
as he cannot wear them in England without asking the 
Queen's consent, he never has worn. I saw a large portrait 
of the German Emperor, which the Kaiser had sent to him, 
and also a copy of the Emperor's song and music which 
that most accomplished of young men had given to his 
Oxford friend. The Kaiser had written upon it : "A Chip 
from another German workshop." 

Professor Miiller was full of pleasant reminiscences of his 
last visit to Paris in October, 1895, where he was called upon 
to make an address in French on very short notice. He 
appeared to envy me the month of preparation which was 
given my inexperience before a similar ordeal last April. 

The most popular of German lyric poets is Wilhelm 
Miiller, the father of Max Miiller ; and when I told the 
Oxford professor that my son had learned to recite his 
father's poem of " The Bell- founder of Breslau," he was 
much pleased, as he also was to hear that friends in Ger- 
many and in America as well were still reading with pleasure 
his early book, " German Love." 

"My other books," he once said, "were written from the 
head, but this from the heart ! " 



OLD ENGLAND. 1 85 

In a delightful walk which I had with Professor J. Estlin 
Carpenter, we passed by a street named from the late Pro- 
fessor Jowett, Master of Balliol College ; and this reminds 
me of a story told me last summer by Dean Fremantle. 
Let me preface it by saying that Max Miiller's English is 
pure, idiomatic, and perfect, and is uttered with such clear- 
ness that you do not need, as with some Englishmen, to 
ask him to repeat. Some one said to Jowett, " You have 
seen many classes of Englishmen in }'our lecture-room." 
" Yes," he replied, " I am like old Nestor ; I have seen 
pass before me several generations of inarticulate-speaking 
men ! " The Oxford term had not begun. There was some 
talk of inviting a famous Hindu to come down from London 
and deliver a lecture. Professor Carpenter said, " Lectur- 
ing would do no good now," and Max Miiller humorously 
added, " It does no good in term time." 

On Max Miiller's piano lay a large colored poster, which 
had been sent him from California. It was an advertise- 
ment of Dr. A.'s Cough Medicine, and it contained a gigantic 
head of Professor Max Miiller ! The enterprising American 
probably chose the most benevolent face he could find, and 
put his own obscure name beneath it ! The Oxford profes- 
sor doubtless got as much pleasure out of this grotesque evi- 
dence of his fame, as out of the ample honors which kings 
and learned societies have bestowed upon this most famous 
of living scholars. Of all men he seems to be the most 
lenient and loving student of non-Christian religions, while 
declaring the immeasurable superiority of Christianity. As 
I bade him good-by, I said : " I may not be able to reflect 
all your ideas in India, but I hope to show your kindly and 
charitable spirit." 

The next day we saw Cambridge, where the term had 
begun. And I must say that the young men, so stalwart, 
athletic, well-groomed, and manly, showed to good advan- 
tage contrasted with the mighty beer-drinkers whom I had 
seen in Gottingen. My motto in Oxford was that chosen 
for the World's Congress Auxiliary : " Not Things, but 



1 86 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Men." I did not even see the Indian Institute, the centre 
of Indian studies at Oxford, practically founded by Sir 
Monier Monier-Williams, and which he was anxious that 
I should visit. But our motto for Cambridge was : " Not 
Men, but Things." The libraries, chapels, refectories, por- 
traits, quadrangles, towers, and those lovely lawns, with 
lime-tree avenues, sloping down to the stone and oaken 
bridges of the Cam, charmed us into that enthusiasm which 
makes nearly every Cambridge man exultant with a pride 
which no Oxford fellow can put down. We walked the 
golden acres which the English muses have most loved. 
What a gap would be made in our libraries of British song 
if the Cambridge poets were taken out of them, — Spenser 
and Sidney, Marlow and Milton, Cowley and Coleridge, 
Ben Jonson and Dryden, Fletcher and Gray, Byron, Words- 
worth, and Tennyson ! And think of the Cambridge states- 
men, — Lord Burleigh and Cromwell, Pitt and Palmerston ! 
Call the roll of her reformers, divines, missionaries, scholars, 
men of letters, scientists — Erasmus, Cranmer, Latimer, 
Jeremy Taylor, Archbishop Ussher, Paley, Henry Martyn, 
John Harvard, Wilberforce, Cudvvorth, Bentley, Porson, 
Parr, Pepys, Chesterfield, Thackeray, Bulwer, Macaulay, 
Bacon, Newton, Isaac Barrow, Whewell, Darwin ! 

King's College Chapel, built by the " royal saint " Henry 
VI., of which we had great expectations, quite surpassed our 
dreams. We plucked some leaves from Milton's mulberry- 
tree in Christ College garden, saw Erasmus's tower and 
several rooms of famous Cambridge graduates, and looked 
at many portraits and busts of the mighty dead. We 
were directed to the date inscribed on one of the col- 
leges by the celebrated Latin scholar. Professor Mayor, the 
vegetarian who lived for a long time on twopence a day, 
whose money has been expended in gathering one of the 
largest private libraries in the world ; and we saw Hogarth's 
caricature of Dr. Parr, with a great cloud of smoke issuing 
from his mouth as he sat in the pulpit. This learned veteran 
had the habit of smoking in church, and sometimes would 



OLD ENGLAND. 1 87 

ask the congregation to sing a hymn over again that he 
might have another pipe. Judged by this standard, the 
Enghsh church to-day is not up to Parr ! 

We had a few hours in Ely before returning to London. 
The cathedral is its sole attraction. It is the longest in 
England, excepting Winchester, and is one of the best 
pieces of Norman architecture. Other styles have been 
added to it; and the Gothic dome, the only one of the 
sort in the world, fihs one with awe as he looks up into 
the mighty vault. On the following day we had an oppor- 
tunity of contrasting Ely with Canterbury. The great cathe- 
dral, which stands near the site of the cradle of British 
Christianity, unlike Ely and like Winchester, is crowded 
with history. Here the Black Prince and Henry IV. are 
buried. Here Becket was murdered, and here was built 
his costly shrine, a shrine which Henry VIII. plundered of 
its jewels, one of which, the most precious ruby in the world, 
he made into a thumb-ring for himself. The Puritan icono- 
clasts show up to advantage beside the much-married and 
plundering Henry. Dean Farrar, who graciously acted as 
our guide through the deanery, its delightful gardens, and 
the interesting environments of the cathedral, is making 
preparations to celebrate next summer the thirteen hun- 
dredth anniversary of the introduction of Christianity into 
England. Twenty thousand pounds are to be expended in 
repairing the historic cathedral, which, by the way, is a 
museum of heraldry. There are here eight hundred coats 
of arms. Families who were benefactors of the cathedral 
had the privilege of having their escutcheons carved on the 
sacred walls. They were also granted forty days' indul- 
gence. Dean Farrar expressed humorously his regret that 
he could not accord to the benefactors of to-day a similar 
privilege. He called our attention to the history of archi- 
tecture as embodied in this noble building with its various 
styles. We were deeply interested in the deanery, which is 
really the archbishop's house when he comes to Canterbury. 
Beneath its roof King William III. had slept. Here the great 



1 88 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Archbishop Tillotson lived for twenty-fiv^e years. We saw 
the portraits of all the deans. Some of his predecessors, as 
Dean Farrar told us, in the days of royal favoritism, held 
two bishoprics besides the deanery. When the revisers 
were at work over the New Testament, it was proposed to 
translate the word which has been rendered penny, where 
Jesus said, " Show me a penny," by an almost perfect 
transcription of the word " denarius," thus making a new 
word, "denary." The revisers, however, changed their 
minds, after a few days, when some one suggested that the 
proposed revision might embolden every canon in England 
to say to his bishop or to the prime minister, " Give me a 
deanery ! " In the old times such a gift was worth while. 

Probably no other living English divine has been read so 
widely as Dean Farrar. Some of his books are in the library 
of nearly every American minister, and a translation of his 
" Life of Christ " or " Life of St. Paul " is found, according 
to a Russian prince, on the bookshelves of almost every in- 
telligent Russian priest. Dean Farrar is about publishing a 
book on the Bible. "I am afraid," he said, "that my 
views will give you a great shock." He is deeply interested 
in India, where he was born, and of which a former viceroy 
was his dear friend. Nothing in his library interested me 
more than a photograph he showed of Phillips Brooks and 
himself. He thought that if the great Boston preacher had 
refused to be a bishop he might still be alive. I shall carry 
with me through life a beautiful picture of Dean Farrar, with 
his black leggings, small clothes, and university cap, a 
bunch of keys in his hand, opening for us many a door, 
climbing the steps of the high garden wall, pointing out the 
leading architectural features of the great cathedral, and at 
last in the beautiful evening twilight bidding us a kindly 
good-by. 

We parted from him under Christ Church Gate, beneath 
which, as he told us, Charles V., Henry VIII., and Cardinal 
Wolsey had walked together. We had seen St. Martin's 
Church, the oldest church building in England, and in its 



OLD ENGLAND. 1 89 

churchyard Dean Alford's tomb, on which I read, with 
pecuHar emotion, an inscription which would be appropriate 
to me, resting here to-night : " The inn of a traveller on 
his way to Jerusalem." 

The next morning we left the hospitalities of " The 
Rose," and the precincts of the cathedral, and within an 
hour were driving along the sea-wall of Dover, where we 
looked up to the ancient castle and saw to the westward 
Shakespeare's Cliff. The seventy minutes' passage across 
the Channel was over a quiet and sun-kissed sea. It was 
with deep affection that I said good-by to old England, and 
I ask my readers to share with me that friendship for the 
better England, that prayerful hope that she may be de- 
livered from calamity and dishonor, and that faith in her 
mighty, beneficent mission with which I now set my face 
toward her great Indian Empire. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Lowell's cathedral. 

S we crossed the Channel, I read through Lord Rose- 
bery's speech given the night before in Edinburgh, 
and I said : " O England ! thy problems and perils are 
so grave that all Christian hearts must pray for thee. 
Separated though thou art by these waters from the great 
European world, thou art still bound, both by duty and 
interest, to the armed and the suffering nations. God 
shield thee from war ; but if a righteous war must come, 
may God give to thy delivering arm a noble victory ! " At 
Calais we experienced the wonder, ever new, of striking 
another language and other modes of life. Sweeping by 
Boulogne, we saw the tall monument, crowned with the 
statue of Napoleon, marking the spot where the Corsican 
Caesar encamped when he planned another conquest of 
Britain. In a few hours we were in Paris, and found the 
city still gay with the profuse and artistic decorations with 
which France had just greeted the Czar. The Russian 
eagles were everywhere close to the shields on which the 
letters R. F. tell all the world that France is a republic. 
Amazing were the festoons of white lamps on the Place de 
la Concorde and along the Champs Elys^es ; and how the 
Japanese spring-time, with its white and pink cherry-blos- 
soms, appeared to have returned in the flower-decorated 
autumn trees of the Rond Point ! The word " Pax" was in- 
scribed a thousand times on the decorations. " Methinks 
she doth protest too much." The spirit which makes for 
peace is not ubiquitous nor omnipotent. 



LOWELL'S CATHEDRAL. 191 

It was good to get away from national concerns and to 
find real peace for the spirit in the familiar American 
Church, of which Dr. Thurber is the pastor, but where we 
heard a tender and beautiful sermon on " Seeing God," by 
President Francis E. Clark of the Christian Endeavor 
movement. A union meeting of all the Paris societies of 
Christian Endeavor greeted him in the afternoon. It is 
always a joy to come into touch with this modest and de- 
voted m.an, chosen of God to move the young Christian 
life of the world and to help make ready for the active, 
spiritual, and united church of the future. Of our three 
secular days in Paris, two were spent out of the city, and I 
realized a dream which I had been dreaming for twenty- 
five years, in a visit to Lowell's Cathedral in Chartres, two 
hours from Paris. Before I came abroad in 1873, I had 
made myself familiar with the now famous poem inspired 
by the great minster, of which Napoleon said, " How ill at 
ease would an atheist be here ! " Lowell's " Cathedral " was 
my constant companion on my first being abroad, and I 
found it sympathetic with many moods. It contains much 
moralizing, and is full of high eloquence. But it was only 
yesterday that the way seemed open for a visit to 
Chartres. 

"A pretty burgh, and such as fancy loves 
For bygone grandeurs. . . . 
Its once grim bulwarks, tamed to lovers' walks. 
Looked down unwatchful on the sliding Eure." 

The hours that we spent in and about the cathedral, 
whose massiveness and splendor are associated with a his- 
tory which reaches back to pre-Christian times, were 
among the most impressive and really exciting that we 
have known in Europe. We did not wonder that Lowell 
wrote, — 

" I, who to Chartres came to feed my eye, 
And give to fancy one clear holiday. 
Scarce saw the minster, for the thoughts it stirred. 
Buzzing o'er past and future with vain quest." 



192 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Our thoughts, too, were busy, and were not altogether 
cheerful, for reasons which I will indicate at once. The 
great church is built to the glory of Our Lady of Chartres, 
and contains a miraculous Virgin, made of dark wood, often 
called the Black Virgin, It holds also a miraculous tunic 
or veil, and in the spacious crypt is a copy of the Druidical 
Virgin, worshipped in a heathen sanctuary here before the 
beginning of the Christian era. We spent a good deal of 
time before the splendid and richly decorated shrine of the 
Virgin, around which hundreds of golden hearts, the offer- 
ings of the faithful, are suspended, and where many can- 
dles are kept constantly burning. Chartres must have had 
a revival of piety since Lowell's first visit here. He says : 

" Far up the great bells wallowed in delight, 
Tossing their clangors o'er the heedless town, 
To call the worshippers who never came, 
Or women mostly, in loath twos and threes." 

We heard the great bells again and again, but the town 
was not heedless. A thousand worshippers must have come 
during the afternoon, and a constant procession passed the 
shrine of the Black Virgin. Men, women, and children in 
arms kissed the stone pillar on which the image is placed. 
According to the official guide-book, sold in the cathedral, 
" forty days' indulgence may be gained by kissing the pillar 
of Notre Dame du Pilier." Scores of miracles are re- 
lated as having been performed by Our Lady of Chartres. 
She is declared to have saved France from paganism, in the 
tenth century, by the defeat and conversion of the Norman 
Duke Rollo, and from Protestantism, in the sixteenth century, 
by the defeat of the Huguenots. The official guide says, 
" Our Lady raises to life dead children, brought to her by 
their mother." In the devotions offered within the cathe- 
dral, I strove with all sympathy to believe that there was 
present the spirit of true worship, and I do not doubt the 
sincerity, while I deplore the want of enlightenment. God, 
who sees the heart, doubtless brings many consolations to 
those who kneel at this shrine which His hand, as I have 



LOWELL'S CATHEDRAL. 193 

come to believe, never erected. But I have written enough 
to show why the visit saddened me, although I was not un- 
familiar with the acts of worship which are offered to the 
Virgin Mother of Our Lord. It seemed to me that they 
are not the best friends of the human soul who, to use 

Lowell's phrase, 

" obscure 
With painted saints and paraphrase of God 
The soul's east window of divine surprise." 

What filled me with joy in the cathedral was the feeling 
that this glorious monument of human hands is in its en- 
tirety an altar of religion, and an oifering, notwithstanding 
all superstitions, to Almighty God. Chartres has not the 
perfect symmetry nor the stupendous height of the double- 
spired Cologne ; but it possesses a venerableness in which 
the newly finished Christian temple on the Rhine does not 
share. In historical associations it ranks with Winchester 
and Canterbury. English kings have contributed to its 
glory, and Edward III. paid his devotions at this shrine. 

" Here once there stood a homely wooden church, 
Which slow devotion nobly changed to this, 
That echoes vaguely to my modern steps. 
By suffrage universal it was built, 
As practised then, for all the country came 
From far as Rouen to give votes for God, 
Each vote a block of stone securely laid, 
Obedient to the master's deep-mused plan." 

It is claimed that all the French kings excepting Louis 
XVI. have been devoted subjects of Our Lady of Chartres. 
Clovis received instruction from her bishop ; the early 
Carlovingian monarchs were her friends ; St. Louis walked 
barefoot to her altar ; Louis XI. divided his time between 
Paris and Chartres ; Henry of Navarre was here consecrated ; 
Louis XIV. was a pilgrim to these crypts; popes have 
lowered their mitres before this image ; St. Bernard, the 
mighty Abbot of Clairvaux, here comforted the crusading 
knights in their discouragement ; the steps of the great 
Thomas a Becket of Canterbury have been heard among 

13 



194 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

these massive pillars ; converted Huron Indians from the 

forests of North America have sent their offerings to this 

shrine, which Catholic missionaries have made famous in 

China and Japan and on the tropic shores of Ceylon. 

Mr. Lowell describes himself as first brought face to face 

with " the minster's vast repose " at the " triple northern 

port," 

" Where dedicated shapes of saints, and kings, 
Stern faces, bleared with immemorial watch, 
Looked down benignly grave." 

We entered by the western gate, between the two lofty 
towers, high up around whose stony perches great flocks of 
birds were circling, as in the time when our American poet 
saw in them an image of us moderns, 

" Plastering our swallow-nests on the awful past. 
And twittering round the work of larger men, 
As we had builded what we but deface." 

To me it is always a great moment when I first stand 
beneath the high-embowered roof of a vast cathedral aisle. 
And Chartres holds its own in any company of Christian 
churches. Mr. Lowell wonders if it were Faith or Fear 
which built thus nobly. And he also asks if our age, which 
is surely not one of cathedral-building, has achieved any- 
thing as worthy as this miracle in stone, which men were 
one hundred and sixty years in finishing. Readers of his 
poem will recall how despondent he seems in some of his 
meditations. Twenty-five years ago the wave of agnosticism 
was at its height, that wave which has since subsided. 
Lowell, though " the born disciple of an elder time " and 
never losing faith in God and prayer and immortality, was 
yet sympathetic with his own age, and cultured agnosticism 
touched his harp with many plaintive melodies. Later in 
life he drew closer to the ancestral faith, but even in this 
poem the spirit of doubt never really triumphs. Invincible 
hope asserts herself. God is not to be displaced. We 
know ourselves by knowing Him. The soul of man is His 



LOWELL'S CATHEDRAL. 195 

best temple, and " fairer far than aught by artist feigned or 
pious ardor reared." And though Mr. Lowell welcomes the 
spirit of criticism which exposes all delusions, though he sees 
in true science the essence of religion, though he beholds 
the downfall of ancient superstitions, "while pale gods glance 
for help to gods as pale," yet man can never be permanently 
cheated out of heaven. The Divine comes back to him. 
With every child the angel-peopled paradise returns. The 
religion of self-sacrifice is enduring. This world is not 
made for mere enjoyment. Man needs and will get hold 
of the Divine consolation, and in the church of the future 

" The Cross, bold type of shame to homage turned, 
Of an unfinished life that sways the world, 
Shall tower, as sovereign emblem, over all." 

Among the great things of the cathedral are the spacious 
crypts, the most extensive that I have ever seen, surpassing, 
I think,, those of Canterbury. A large, good-natured bel- 
dame, a believer in the miraculous powers of Our Lady, led 
us through subterranean chapel after chapel. One of these 
is very extensive, and from the ceiling lighted lamps depend. 
In Canterbury we were shown the hooks in the roof to 
which the silver lamps were once attached in those far-off 
days of which Chaucer sings, when pilgrims journeyed to the 
British shrine as they now journey to Chartres. 

The screen around three sides of the great choir — colossal, 
elaborate, and yet delicate sculptures, representing scenes in 
the life of Mary and of our Lord — is the greatest piece of 
stone-carving in interior church architecture that I have 
ever looked at. The beautiful wood-carvings in the stalls 
of King's College Chapel, and of Ely and Canterbury 
cathedrals, seem child's play in comparison. But to me 
the heavenliest part of this Gothic wonder is the beauty of 
the ancient glass windows, before one of which pilgrims 
lighted candles in the twelfth century. There are more 
than one hundred and forty windows, letting in a dim re- 
ligious light. But it is light, and calls our thoughts heaven- 



196 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

ward. Before the art of printing was invented, the 
thirty-eight hundred figures in this beautiful glass and the 
many carved images within and without, depicting scenes of 
Biblical, legendary, and ecclesiastical history, formed the 
people's picturesque and magnificent prayer-book. Our 
poet recovers from his plaintive mood, as the heavenly 
light falls upon him through these painted kings and 
prophets. 

" I gaze round on the windows, pride of France, 
Eacii tiie briglit gift of some mechanic guild, 
Who loved their city, and thought gold well spent, 
To make her beautiful with piety ; 
I pause transfigured by some stripe of bloom, 
And my mind throngs with shining auguries, 
Circle on circle, bright as seraphim, 
With golden trumpets, silent, that await 
The signal to blow news of good to men." 

But, after all, to me what gives a perpetual charm to 
Lowell's '•' Cathedral " is its picturesque interpretation of 
the wonder, fascination, and heavenward-climbing spirit of 
Gothic architecture. It is good reading, not only at 
Chartres, but before and within many of the chief shrines of 
Northern Europe. It was early in the evening when we 
took our last look at that which had brought us thither. 
There it stood, and there it will stand, 

" Silent and gray as forest-leaguered cliff, 
Left inland by the ocean's slow retreat." 

As our train took us back to busy and brilliant Paris, per- 
haps the centre of modern civilization, I felt that the spirit 
which achieved its greatest things in the building of cathe- 
drals must now seek, and will now seek, to honor God best 
by serving men, by delivering the soul from ignorance and 
the life from brutalizing poverty, and by teaching that through 
brotherhood, through a faith which works by love, the king- 
dom of heaven is expanded and built up on the earth. 

France is full of hope that her isolation and her peril 
have been removed or lessened, through the union with 



LOWELL'S CATHEDRAL. 1 97 

Russia, which has been made more real and apparent by the 
visit of the Czar. But Europe remains an armed camp. The 
Prince of Peace would, I think, be far more honored by 
the cessation of European hatreds and antagonisms than by 
the building of a hundred cathedrals. If men would appro- 
priate the real spirit of Christ's teachings, they should throw 
down their rifles and snap in two their swords. Christian 
nations, so called, seem to feed only on the husks of religion. 
The doctrine of God's fatherhood and human brotherhood, 
adopted into the lives of men, would usher in the common- 
wealth of love. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

XJNDER ITALIAN SKIES — TURIN, MIIAN, FLORENCE. 

"\^ 7"E left the French capital at the Lyons station by the 
• express train for Turin. It was with regret that we 
said good-by to a city that has always been kind to us. 
Shall we ever see Notre Dame and the Place de la Con- 
corde again ? The ride through France, when the rain was 
falling and the skies were dark, was a time for reflections 
rather than for visions. I had a few hours of sleep before 
we came to the Italian custom-house at Modane. Then 
the train carried us through the Mont Cenis tunnel, and in 
half an hour we had pierced the Alpine barrier, over which 
Caesar had climbed to the conquest of Gaul, and Hannibal 
and Napoleon to the conquest of Italy. 

It is twenty-three years since I had my first view of one 
of the fairest lands the traveller ever sees, the land where 
nature and art are rich with untold treasures, and where 
memory consecrates every city and river and storied plain. 
To visit Italy is the scholar's brightest dream. I could but 
think how many of our own countrymen — poets, historians, 
statesmen — have found in their Italian journeys rich food 
for the mind. And then, who does not remember that from 
Luther's visit to Italy sprung the reformation of Europe? 
No other Englishman ever was better fitted to find full en- 
joyment in the literary and other treasures of Florence and 
Rome than John Milton, and we proudly recall how he hur- 
ried back to England to take a brave man's part in the 
Puritan battle for righteousness and freedom. Goethe's 
visit to Italy made a large part of his many-sided edu- 



TURIN, MILAN, FLORENCE. 1 99 

cation. Byron found in Italy a theme for song, and his 
" Childe Harold's Pilgrimage " is the daily companion of 
many a traveller. 

My mind has been struck anew with the enormous wealth 
of greatness, in all forms of human achievement, belonging 
to this marvellous Italian peninsula. For more than two 
thousand years this fair region has been the theatre of 
events in which human genius has played a most illustrious 
part. If we should select seventy-five of the greatest per- 
sonalities in history, Italy would claim her full share among 
them — indeed, one-fifth of all. Judged by their inherent 
mental or moral worth or by their representative character 
or by their achievements and influence, we might perhaps 
justly say that these are the foremost personalities of all 
time : Abraham, Moses, Samuel, David, Isaiah, St. Paul, 
St. Peter, St. John, Homer, Socrates, Pericles, Plato, Phidias, 
Alexander ; Rameses II., Zoroaster, Confucius, Buddha, 
Mohammed ; Akbar, Charles Martel, Charlemagne, St. Ber- 
nard, St. Louis, Joan of Arc, Calvin, Pascal, Voltaire, Napo- 
leon, Gutenberg, Luther, Frederick the Great, Kant, Goethe, 
Bismarck ; Alfred, Wyclif, Bacon, Shakespeare, Milton, New- 
ton, John Knox, Chatham, Harvey, James Watt, Gladstone, 
Livingstone, Darwin ; Washington, Franklin, Lincoln, Grant ; 
William the Silent, Gustavus Adolphus, Rembrandt, Peter 
the Great, Ignatius Loyola, Cervantes, Bolivar; Csesar, 
Cicero, Augustus, Virgil, Marcus Aurelius, Constantine, 
Augustine, Dante, Hildebrand, Francis of Assisi, Michael 
Angelo, Galileo, Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Columbus, 
Cavour. Of these the last sixteen belong to Italy. I in- 
clude Constantine in the ItaUan list because, although born 
in England and founding a capital on the Bosphorus, he was 
essentially Roman, and had in Italy one sphere of his ac- 
tivity. I include St. Augustine because, though born in 
Africa, his chief life was here, and he is justly esteemed 
the greatest of the Latin fathers. I choose Cavour be- 
cause he best represents the struggle for Italian libera- 
tion and unity. Some of my readers may make a better 



200 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

selection than mine, but they will not find the Italian 
stars in the great human constellation any less luminous 
or splendid. 

Emerging from the long tunnel, we descended rapidly 
toward the Piedmontese plain. The lofty snow-peaks were 
in full harmony with the wintry morning air. Many water- 
falls tumbled down into little streams, affluents to the greater 
Po. Chestnut-trees grew frequent, and told us of one of 
the sources of the thrifty Italian's food. As we descended, 
vineyards began to multiply, and at last we came upon tiny 
cornfields. We had also come to the land of history, which 
seems to us Americans very old. Our train passed through 
one little village where a Roman triumphal arch still stands, 
which was finished the very year when Jesus, a boy of twelve, 
went up to the temple in Jerusalem. We looked down 
upon the gray roofs and houses, some of them appearing 
like wasps' nests, that seemed very old indeed. But after 
a while we slid into the fertile Piedmontese lowlands, and 
were soon debarking from the train in the proud, thriving, 
modern-looking city of Turin, the former capital of the 
kingdom of Sardinia, and the first capital of the new king- 
dom of Italy. 

The impression is made at once, even in Turin, — an im- 
pression daily deepened while in Italy, — that this is the land 
of art, of monumental art and every other kind. There 
are half a dozen statues in the squares of Turin which 
make one feel how timid, tame, and clumsy are very many 
of the corresponding works in England and America, erected 
to the honor of great men. The statue of Count Cavour, 
an elaborate monument in white marble, on which is written 
Cavour's favorite motto, " A free Church and a free State," 
first thrilled me twenty-three years ago, and has lost none of 
its powerful charm. Contrast the statue of the knightly 
warrior and peacemaker Emmanuel Philibert with the 
statue of our warrior and peacemaker Grant ! A four 
hours' ride over the great northern plain of Italy, a plain 
covered by many a martial spoiler, — a ride that took us 



TURIN, MILAN, FLORENCE. 20I 

by the battlefield of Magenta, — brought us, in the early 
evening twilight of a dark day, to Milan. 

The next morning promised to be bright, as from our 
window we looked out on the glorious marble crown of the 
cathedral. As in the fresh, luminous dawn we stood in the 
great piazza in front of this wonder of Gothic art and feasted 
our eyes on the sculptured pediments, the hundreds of as- 
piring minarets, and the thousands of wondrous statues, 
and as later we stood within this gorgeous pile, which, next 
to St. Peter's and the cathedral in Seville, is the largest 
church in Europe, La Signora exclaimed, " Why did no one 
ever tell me that the Milan cathedral is so beautiful ! " 
It is easy enough to feel, but it is simply impossible to de- 
scribe so as to make others adequately realize such a miracle 
in stone as this. Keats's wealth of picturesque and melo- 
dious phrase, Tennyson's matchless use of many-colored 
words, Milton's ample and sonorous vocabulary, might all 
be appropriately lavished on the Milan cathedral, which 
has not yet found its poet. 

But, after all, no one sees the cathedral unless he climbs, 
as we did, to the marble roof. That rare benefactor, a really 
serviceable Italian guide, with a good knowledge of French, 
piloted us heavenward. No other church is so easily and 
comfortably ascended. You never are choked in any nar- 
row passage, and no other cathedral is so well worth 
chmbing. Once on the roof the heart begins to swell as 
the eye rests on decorated pinnacle after pinnacle, each 
one beautifully and sumptuously carved, each one shelter- 
ing heroic or saintly statues under its gracious canopies 
and carrying some nobler and grander figure on its sum- 
mit. It is a forest of sculptured art that enraptures the 
mind ; and as you go higher, the wonder grows. It is a 
wilderness, a luxuriant flower-garden of blossoming stone, 
that enchants the eye and astonishes the intellect. Hun- 
dreds of flowers and hundreds of fruits are wedded to the 
tropic ornamentation. There is no repetition anywhere. 
The lofty marble balustrades are amazingly rich and 



202 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

beautiful, and seem endless. You look out over a network 
of white stone cut into lace-like patterns, and then you 
begin to study in detail each minaret and to wonder whom 
these more than three thousand life-size figures in marble 
really represent. 

One's brain must be a library, as our guide truly said, 
to know half of them. One form, however, standing sub- 
lime upon a pinnacle in the loftiest row, all the world is 
eager to distinguish. He was no saint, the man who looks 
down from this dizzy and dazzling perch. He holds in 
his hand what seems like a lance. It is really a rod that 
draws off the lightning's bolts. The heavens flash and 
roar around his marble semblance, as the earth flashed 
and roared around his human career. One of his earliest 
achievements was to add Italy to France. It was he who 
ordered the finishing of the Milan cathedral, and here in 
the Lombard capital he was crowned with . an iron crown. 
Napoleon ! — 

" That name consumed the silence of the snows 

In Alpme keeping, lioly and cloud-hid; 

The mimic eagles dared what Nature's did 
And over-rushed her mountainous repose 
In search of eyries ; and the Egyptian river 
Mingled the same word with its grand ' Forever.' " 

We climbed the four hundred and eighty-six steps that 
lead to the top of the central spire, and from this flashing 
jewel of the diadem of the Lombard queen we looked out 
over the beautiful city and the far-reaching plains, to the 
foot of the Alps, and even farther, for St. Gothard drew 
wide asunder his cloudy veil and showed us the white 
mountain throne which shot thirteen thousand feet upward 
into the blue and ever-brightening skies. It was a vision 
never to be forgotten. Reluctantly we descended, but 
once more within the cathedral its splendid beauty seemed 
diviner than ever. 

But Milan has other attractions besides the cathedral. 
The statue of the great Leonardo da Vinci, painter, mathe- 



TURIN, MILAN, FLORENCE. 203 

matician, engineer, inventor, is one of the ornaments of 
the city. His "Last Supper" in the monastic refectory, 
defaced though it be by time, is, with one exception, the 
most famous of pictures, and draws to it pilgrim feet from 
all civilized lands. 

Milan's art gallery also should be seen. In its court- 
yard stands Canova's impressive " Napoleon," and in one 
of its rooms is Raphael's " Marriage of the Virgin," cer- 
tainly among the sweetest of all his pictures. Then there 
is the historically interesting and very ancient church of 
St. Ambrose, within which he baptized the young Augus- 
tine. Here is still kept the marble chair in which Roman 
and German emperors were crowned. We sat in it — 
this chair of Theodosius and Charlemagne and Napoleon — 
and felt as if we had come close to much that was greatest 
in the history of fifteen centuries. 

From Milan to Florence ! It was a ride through one of 
the richest of historic landscapes ; by fields of rice and 
corn, watered artificially, yielding twelve crops a year, 
and reminding us of California ; by the bridge of Lodi, 
where Napoleon led the fiery onset of his troops ; through 
cities linked with the wars of the second Roman trium- 
virate ; through Bologna, the learned, and then, as night 
came on, and the moon threw her silver mantle over field 
and stream, along the banks of the Reno, up the gorges of 
the Apennines, and thence downward across the Tuscan 
plains, — it was such a ride that carried us to Florence, 
loveliest of all Italian cities. 

I am happy to think that there are many people in 
many lands who love Florence as warmly as I do. In 
this my second visit, the affectionate enthusiasm which 
has never left me since I first stood before Giotto's Tower 
and Raphael's Madonnas, Michael Angelo's " David " and 
Ghiberti's celestial gates, has been greatly deepened. 

My companion, not agreeing with me in all things, still 
agrees with me in the blissful conviction that Florence is 
the most beautiful and inspiring place on earth. I choose 



204 '^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

these adjectives deliberately, because I know not where 
else to find so much which feeds the love of the beautiful 
and the love of the noble and heroic. If Athens had 
been Christian in her classic age, I might make an excep- 
tion of the city of Minerva. In writing of our happy expe- 
riences here, how shall I make a selection, when our joys 
have been 

"Thick as autumnal leaves that strew the brooks 
In Vallombrosa, where the Etrurian shades 
High overarch'd embower " ? 

These familiar lines from " Paradise Lost " occurred 
to us on Galileo's Tower, whose steps the youthful Milton 
climbed to see the great astronomer. It is on the south 
bank of the Arno beyond the hill and church of San 
Miniato, and has now become an interesting Galileo 
Museum, filled with portraits of the brave Christian man of 
science and with memorials of his life. Among these are 
two pictures which represent Milton's visit. Another is a 
copy of the ecclesiastical sentence of condemnation. Still 
another is one of the telescopes which he is said to have 
used, — a tiny instrument for piercing and conquering the 
heavenly deeps, compared with that which is so soon to 
be placed on the shores of Lake Geneva in Wisconsin. We 
had a long climb before reaching the Tower, which is really 
part of a spacious house in the midst of a lovely garden ; 
but the objects within it, and especially the view from its 
summit, on such a perfect October afternoon, were ample 
recompense. Florence lay at our feet, and all its loftier 
buildings stood out in grand relief. About us were gardens 
and churches and vineyards, groups of olive-trees, and rows 
of tall and solemn cypresses ; and to the north and east, 
beyond the city, were the beautiful hills, so many of them 
crowned with dazzling villas, hills reaching away to the 
Apennines. Among the nearer summits was Fiesole. 
Surely this was the place to recall and repeat Milton's de- 
scription of Satan's shield, for he doubtless remembered 
what we saw when he dictated the famous lines, — 



TURIN, MILAN, FLORENCE. 205 

" The broad circumference 
Hung on his shoulders like the moon, whose orb 
Through optic glass the Tuscan artist views 
At evening, from the top of Fiesole 
Or in Valdarno, to descry new lands, 
Rivers or mountains in her spotty globe." 

But come with us back to the city. We saw the house 
in which Ehzabeth Barrett Browning wrote and died. What 
sweet visions she had from her Casa Guidi windows ! It 
was pleasant to see that grateful Florence has marked with 
a spacious marble tablet the home of her who made the 
cause of Italian freedom and unity her own. We also stood 
by her grave in the beautiful little cemetery, where we 
saw, besides, the graves of Arthur Hugh Clough, Theodore 
Parker, and Walter Savage Landor. The poet Clough was 
dear to Emerson, and very dear to Lowell, who in his 
poem on Agassiz, written in Florence, pays a tender tribute 
to this young English genius, who rests " not by still Isis or 
historic Thames," but 

" By Arno's hallowed brim. 
Haply not mindless, wheresoe'er he be, 
Of violets which to-day I scattered over him." 

Theodore Parker's grave inspired me with deep and 
rather mixed emotions. The inscription which friends have 
written upon the brave man's tomb has a slightly exagger- 
ated and defiant tone of eulogy, not altogether pleasing to 
some of us who really reverence Theodore Parker's un- 
doubted greatness. The slab which marks the resting-place 
of Walter Savage Landor, who lived so many years in his 
suburban Florentine villa, is an almost painfully simple 
memorial, lying flat upon the soil. A becoming monument 
to Landor would be a classic Grecian temple, with polished 
marble shafts adorned with Phidian sculptures and in- 
scribed with choicest verses from the Attic poets. 

The Florentine art-treasures, as most people know, are 
of the highest order, and are practically inexhaustible. I 
do not refer merely to those in the Uffizi Gallery, nor to 



206 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

the richer treasures in the Pitti Palace, nor to the half 
mile of pictures reaching across the Arno and connect- 
ing these two famous collections ; but I have in mind also 
the valuable works in the Academy, the statues in the 
squares and other pubhc places, and the marvellous adorn- 
ments of the monasteries and churches. I apprehend that 
in the Church of the Annunciation there is greater artistic 
wealth than can be found in some of our large cities. In 
Florence we have made a new friend in Andrea del Sarto ; 
we have come to see in Giotto not only a great architect 
but also a great painter, while three of Raphael's Madonnas 
and his portrait of Pope Julius II. have given us a fresh 
conception of his almost unearthly power. But while one 
learns to love Raphael, he bows more and more in rever- 
ence before Michael Angelo, architect, sculptor, engineer, 
painter, poet, patriot ; the most complete and colossal 
genius belonging to the domain of art. His splendid 
"David " looks as if he were consciously able to overcome 
a dozen Goliaths. How noble are the unfinished figures 
Night and Day, Dawn and Twilight, in the chapel of the 
Medicis ! We visited the house of Michael Angelo, which, 
like Goethe's in Weimar, is a treasury of art. We saw his 
Holy Family in the " Tribune," and laid our hands on the 
fortifications built by him, behind which the Florentines for 
eleven months successfully resisted the attacks of Charles V. 
of Spain. 

But Florence summons before us an even loftier shade 
than Michael Angelo's. We entered the old cathedral, 
now the Baptistery, to which it is said that every child born 
in Florence is brought. The priests were waiting for the 
infants who might be carried thither at any time ; but my 
mind was busy with thoughts of the little child christened 
there more than six centuries ago. He was to become the 
greatest of Italian poets, and many believe the loftiest poet 
of all time. It has been said that while Shakespeare saw 
things, and Goethe saw into things, Dante saw through 
them. The light which he brings from hell and purgatory 



TURIN, MILAN, FLORENCE. 20/ 

and paradise illumines not only his own age, but the minds 
of cultivated men in all subsequent ages. The house where 
he was born is still preserved, and also the stone on which 
he sat in the Square of the Duomo, watching " the slow 
blocks swing up, to complete the master-thought of Ar- 
nolfo," the architect to whose labors Brunelleschi suc- 
ceeded. One imposing monument to Dante stands before 
the Church of Santa Croce, and another within that hal- 
lowed shrine, the Pantheon of Italy ; but the body of the 
poet whom Florence, the " all-loving mother bore " and 
afterwards exiled, rests at Ravenna, near the shores of the 
Adriatic. The suffering life of this great man is another 
illustration of how heroic and lofty souls may meet mis- 
understanding and persecution, while the honors heaped 
upon Dante since his death speak of the assured justice of 
repentant and slow-pondering Time. I remember how 
Wendell Phillips exclaimed in i860: "The day will come 
when Virginia, clothed and in her right mind, will beg of 
New York the dust of John Brown for some mausoleum at 
Richmond, just as repentant Florence, robed in sackcloth, 
begged of Ravenna the dust of that outlawed Dante, whom 
a hundred years before she had ordered to be burnt alive." 
How extravagant the prediction ! But the fulfilment of 
such extravagances is one of the commonplaces of history. 
Like all other frequenters of these scenes, we crossed 
and recrossed the Ponte Vecchio, about which Longfellow 
has written so beautiful a sonnet, making the old bridge 
proudly soliloquize '' Taddeo Gaddi built me," "Florence 
decks me with her jewelry," " Michael Angelo hath leaned 
on me." We visited the Church of St. Michael, interesting 
to me from the fact that the various guilds of Florence 
have decorated the exterior walls with fine statues of the 
Apostles. In Santa Croce, Italy's Westminster Abbey, and 
in the Portico of the Uffizi, adorned with marble statues of 
great Florentines, I realized that, as some one has said, 
" fame is as cheap here as notoriety is elsewhere," and 
that " Florence stands next to Athens in teaching the way 



208 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

in which man may make himself immortal." And how 
many of my readers know that the most beautiful campanile 
in the world is made of many-colored marble, delighting 
the eye not only by its height and perfect proportions, but 
also by its harmony of color-tones? 

" In the old Tuscan town stands Giotto's Tower, 
The lily of Florence, blossoming in stone, 
A vision, a delight, and a desire, 
The builder's perfect and centennial flower, 
Yet wanting still the glory of the spire." 

It made me happy to see that the rude, unfinished west 
end of the cathedral, an offence to the eye for centuries, 
has been beautifully and even gorgeously finished in colored 
marbles. How many churches in Florence, — San Spirito, 
Santa Croce, Santa Maria del Carmine, and others, — rich 
within in every form of beautiful art, are still rough and 
unfinished without ! But even this has one advantage, — 
you find on entering these church doors infinitely more 
than you expected. 

The glorious culmination of all my interest in Florence 
was the visit to San Marco, where Savonarola lived and 
prayed, and the many visits to the Piazza del Signoria, 
only a few yards from our hotel, where his body was 
burned at the stake. The Monastery of St. Mark is made 
beautiful and holy, not only by the prayers and preach- 
ing of the great Dominican monk, but also by the prayers 
and paintings of Fra Bartolommeo and the blessed Fra 
Angelico. Is there any other spot on earth more sacred 
to saintly beauty and saintly heroism? As we walked 
through the cells .of the monks, in each of which Fra 
Angelico had painted some scene from the life of Christ, 
and as later we saw in the Academy and the Pitti 
Palace many of his other works, I realized that it was 
spiritually as well as literally true that he painted upon his 
bended knees. His Madonna, with two saints surrounded 
by twelve musical angels, has a splendor which equals its 
unapproachable holiness. And who could enter Savona- 



TURIN, MILAN, FLORENCE. 209 

Tola's cell, and think of his agonies and aspirations and 
illuminations, and then remember his fate, without having 
a strange choking in his throat? We saw the pulpit from 
which he preached to his brother monks, and we stood in 
the great Duomo, where he, a Florentine Elijah, preached 
to the people of his time. But in the Piazza del Signoria, 
with the great tower of the Old Palace looking down upon 
him and his two companions, condemned with him to the 
flames, is the central shrine of this man's memory. Thou- 
sands to whom he would otherwise be almost unknown, 
have come to love him through the pages of " Romola." 
The picture of his execution, which we saw at San Marco, 
represents him as having been strangled before his body 
was burned. Standing by the place of his death, see- 
ing the happy crowds of prosperous Florence, or hearing 
there the music which on Sunday afternoons is rendered 
by a military band placed among the statues of the Loggia, 
which forms one side of the square, and thinking of what 
has occurred since Savonarola's spirit was breathed out to 
God, I could but say, in the words of Galileo, spoken in this 
same city, " The world does move." Italy is free, the Gos- 
pel is not bound \ the martyrdom of Savonarola was one of 
the gates of entrance to the modern world of toleration and 
mental freedom. No honors are too great for the brave monk 
or for the exiled poet or for the persecuted astronomer. 

" The hooting mob of yesterday in silent awe return, 
To glean up the scattered ashes into History's golden urn." 

Sunday morning we had great joy in the Gospel as 
preached in the Presbyterian church by the Reverend Mr. 
McDougall, a Scotch minister, who told with touching elo- 
quence how the fragrance of Mary's alabaster box of oint- 
ment had gone out to all the earth. After what we had 
seen and felt before, this service in the Protestant meeting- 
house, which Savonarola and Galileo, Martin Luther and 
John Knox, Garibaldi and Victor Emmanuel had helped to 
make possible, was the culmination of all our experiences. 

14 



CHAPTER XVII. 

ROME AND NAPLES. 

'T'HE " lone mother of dead empires " is to-day the happy 

-*- and even jubilant capital of young, free Italy. One 

cannot feel very much in the Byronic mood, coming to the 

Eternal City, as we have done, during the week of festivities 

over the marriage of the Prince of Naples. Byron made 

everything which he saw a reflection of his own bitter and 

disappointed spirit. He called himself an " orphan of the 

heart," and found in Roman ruins a most congenial theme 

for his proud, scornful, and sometimes affectedly humble 

muse. 

" What are our woes and sufferance, come and see 
The cypress, hear the owl, and plod your way 
O'er steps of broken thrones and temples, ye 
Whose agonies are evils of the day. 
A world is at our feet, as fragile as our clay." 

My companion is enjoying her first astonishment over the 
treasure-house of art and antiquity. Undoubtedly a visit 
here is the chief experience that comes to the European 
traveller. The Roman pictures are not equal in beauty, 
though they may be in interest, to those of Paris, Dresden, 
or Florence. Raphael's " Transfiguration," great though it 
is, does not rank with the " Sistine Madonna." Domeni- 
chino's " Last Communion of St. Jerome " is a noble canvas ; 
Guido Reni's "Aurora" and "St. Michael" are worthy of 
their fame. Half a dozen other pictures, including of course 
Raphael's "Madonna da Foligno," are in the front rank. 
But there is no one picture gallery to be mentioned with the 
Louvre or the Pitti Palace. In sculpture, however, Rome 



ROME AND NAPLES. 211 

is supreme. We have seen the " Dying Gladiator," the 
" Faun " of Praxiteles, of which Hawthorne has given us so 
fine an interpretation, the CapitoHne Venus, the Apollo 
Belvedere, the "Laocoon," the "Torso" of Hercules, the 
" Niobe," the "Augustus Caesar," the " Head of Zeus," the 
" Demosthenes," the busts of the Caesars, Michael Angelo's 
stupendous "Moses," his beautiful " Pieta " in St. Peter's, 
his sweet, strong risen Christ, carrying the cross, in Santa 
Maria Sopra Minerva, and the other chief masterpieces of 
sculptured art. But I must add that, though the canvases 
of Rome may not equal those of the three other cities, the 
fresco painting in the Vatican is unsurpassed elsewhere. I 
find that in this second visit I care far more than in the first for 
the Sistine Chapel, where Michael Angelo's colossal prophets 
and sibyls look down upon you as from the sky. His " Last 
Judgment," too, darkened though it has been and disfigured 
by other hands, is astonishing, if not highly satisfactory. 
The truth is that the Christ of the " Final Judgment," the 
beautiful Jesus of the cradle, and the agonized Sufferer on the 
cross, the most familiar forms in classic Italian art, do not ade- 
quately or truly represent the tender graciousness, the benefi- 
cent humanity, and the all-embracing love of that Redeemer 
who is reverenced by modern Christians that have gained 
their ruling conceptions from the Gospels. Raphael's fres- 
cos in the Vatican are magnificent compositions, especially 
the " Parnassus," the " School of Athens," the " Disputa," 
the " Incendio del Borgo," and the "Liberation of Peter." 
One who is familiar only with his Madonnas will be aston- 
ished at the tremendous power illustrated by the hand which 
pencilled so many sweet maternal faces. 

But as in Florence, so in Rome, I felt that there is but one 
master-spirit, and Emerson's lines came to my lips often, — 

"The hand that rounded Peter's dome, 
And groined the aisles of Christian Rome, 
Wrought with a sad sincerity. 
Himself from God he could not free, 
He builded better than he knew, 
The conscious stone to beauty grew." 



212 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

The perfection of the separate parts in St. Peter's — 
Michael Angelo's master-work — is so complete that we are 
slow in appreciating its colossal proportions. I have made 
thirteen visits in all to this greatest of Christian shrines, and, 
while I find it far from the best place in which to worship 
God, I scarcely know of any other place where I more rev- 
erence the genius and power of man. One also feels the 
mighty pedigree of the Papal Church, and in a hundred 
ways realizes the strength and ubiquity of Roman Catholi- 
cism to-day. It has been said that in the Vatican only do 
men think and plan for the whole world. 

I am greatly impressed with the changes which have oc- 
curred in Rome since 1874. The city of course is much 
larger, and has been greatly modernized. New and bril- 
liant thoroughfares have been constructed, and tramways 
introduced. Think of taking a horse-car to the Pantheon 
or St. Peter's ! The Via Nazionale, which is to-day bril- 
liant with decorations in honor of the Crown Prince's mar- 
riage, is a splendid avenue, and, driving down its long 
course between double rows of flags and starry lamps and 
the shields and banners of the hundred cities of Italy, one 
feels that he is in the well-to-do modern capital of a happy 
and hopeful nation. In spite of the national and municipal 
debt, Rome appears to be prosperous. Italy has been 
forced to do in twenty-five years the work of a century. 
Her alliance with Germany and Austria necessitates an im- 
mense standing army, draining the national resources. The 
people's spirit, however, "rings Roman yet." The S. P. Q. 
R. — " Senate and People of Rome " — looks well on the 
national buildings. 

The ancient city has been re-excavated since I last saw 
it. "The steps of broken thrones and temples " have had 
their foundations discovered. The interior of the Colos- 
seum has been dug out, the subterranean chambers have 
been exposed, till the immense ruin appears greater and 
higher still. A similar process has gone on in the Forum and 
elsewhere. Then ecclesiastical Rome has become more 



ROME AND NAPLES. 213 

splendid. That jewel among all churches, St. Paul's out- 
side the Walls, shows an interior of pohshed marbles, adorned 
with many new pictures, while the long series of the por- 
traits of the popes in mosaic has been completed. The 
present pontiff has lavished a deal of treasure on the ceiling 
of St. John Lateran, — the mother church of Roman Chris- 
tendom. Here, as in Florence, many of the churches still 
present very shabby exteriors, while the wealth of art and 
interest within is almost incalculable. We are at the 
Hotel Minerva, and right across the piazza is the Church 
of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, built on the site of a 
Roman temple to the goddess of wisdom. The outside 
of this famous structure looks like a great stone barn. En- 
tering, however, you find yourself in the only Gothic interior 
in Rome, — spacious, elevated, adorned with chapels, richly 
ornamented, and containing a statue of the Christ by Michael 
Angelo. I doubt if a traveller could enjoy in all the churches 
of New York City artistic riches equal to those of Santa 
Maria sopra Minerva. Rome is still erecting new monu- 
ments to celebrate old and new fames. The brave martyr 
to free thought, Giordano Bruno, now stands before us in 
bronze. And yonder, by the Capitoline, rises the immense 
marble foundation of the national monument to Victor 
Emmanuel II., on which already seven million francs have 
been expended. This afternoon we visited his tomb in 
the Pantheon. On it are the words " Father of the 
Country." Many thousands of grateful Italians were flock- 
ing to this honored sepulchre on this day of national 
rejoicing. We were not able to enter the Pantheon before 
to-day on account of the floods from the Tiber, tawny 
and swollen, which had submerged the entrance to the 
building. 

One of our interesting experiences was to visit the graves 
of Shelley and Keats, in the English cemetery, near the 
Ostian Gate. Only the ashes of Shelley are buried here. 
After his death by shipwreck his body was burned, but his 
heart was taken to England. The alchemy by which the 



214 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

spirit of the true poet is immortalized is beautifully sug- 
gested by the lines on his tomb, — 

" Nothing of him that doth fade, 
But doth suffer a sea-change 
Into something rich and strange." 

I had much deeper feelings at the tomb of John Keats, 
on whose gravestone the poet's name is not inscribed, but 
whereon we read the strange epitaph, written at his own 
request, in the bitterness of his soul : " Here lies one whose 
name was writ in water," That name, however, is carved 
in adamant. Keats's brain was the splendid workshop of 
beauty, and " a thing of beauty is a joy forever." He who 
wrote the " Ode to the Nightingale " and the " Ode to a 
Grecian Urn " will outlast the Roman temples and tombs 
that are found so near to his sepulchre. 

But I must write something about this day of wedding 
festivity and national rejoicing. On the tower of the capi- 
tal above the Castle of St. Angelo, on every public building 
and from innumerable houses floats the broad banner of 
the new kingdom, " taking all heaven with its white, green, 
and red." Day before yesterday, from the stand in front 
of the church where the wedding ceremonies were to take 
place, we saw the royal procession which welcomed the 
Prince of Naples and the Princess of Montenegro on their 
arrival. This morning, through the kindness of the Rev- 
erend Dr. R. J. Nevin of St. Paul's Protestant Episcopal 
Church, we were given seats, erected on the Via Nazionale, 
by which the wedding procession was to pass. The day was 
perfect. After the early morning rain the heavens were 
clouded, but no drops fell. The long way from the Quiri- 
nal Palace to the Church of St. Mary of the Angels was 
lined on either side with double rows of Italian soldiers. 
Their various uniforms made a brilliant picture. Gorgeous 
captains, colonels, and generals rode up and down the 
street. The crowd that pressed the lines of troops on both 
sides, or that peered from windows, housetops, and bal- 
conies, was simply uncountable. I have not seen so many 



ROME AND NAPLES. 21 5 

people since Chicago Day at the World's Fair. There was, 
however, a notable absence of priests, usually so numerous 
in Rome. 

The populace here is the best-natured in the world. 
Men and women with little children in their arms bore the 
pushing and crowding with laughing good-humor. But 
there was no sun to beat down upon their heads and make 
them uncomfortable. Princely carriages, with gorgeous red 
liveries, swept up the street, carrying the guests invited to 
the ceremony. Finally came the royal body-guard, a splen- 
did troop of horse. Then appeared the royal coach, drawn 
by six splendid chargers, containing King Humbert, Queen 
Margherita, and the Prince of Naples. In the next coach 
was the beautiful bride, with her father and brother. Then 
came the Queen of Portugal, the Duke and Duchess of 
Aosta, and other members of the royal suite. The whole 
spectacle was most beautiful. But the cheering and enthu- 
siasm were greatly increased when, an hour later, the great 
procession returned and the happy prince and his beautiful 
bride sat together. The bands played, the bells rang, the 
long .lines of soldiers presented arms, the people shouted 
and waved their handkerchiefs, and the newly wedded pair, 
on whom so much of Italy's future depends, bowed right 
and left to the friendly thousands of people. At the 
moment when the wedding ceremony in the church was 
completed one hundred carrier pigeons were set free at the 
fountain in front of it. But every omen has been favor- 
able. The illuminations which we saw this evening, the long 
lines and festoons and stars of white, green, and red lights 
leading up to the Quirinal, drew all Rome together again. 
The Princess is remarkably lovely, and won all hearts. 
But the future Queen of Italy did not outshine the present 
Queen, the people's favorite. Some Americans, resident in 
Italy, have adopted her as their own, and we overheard 
one of them say, " Our Queen is more beautiful, even, than 
the Princess, and is just as young-looking." Take it all in 
all, this has been a wonderful day, and we have entered into 



2l6 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

hearty sympathy with the joys and hopes of this most lov- 
able of European peoples. Our pleasant days in the Eternal 
City have been made pleasanter still by kindnesses from the 
American ambassador, the Hon. Wayne MacVeagh, from 
Consul-General Jones, and Monsignor O'Connell, the head 
of the American Catholic College. I greatly regret that I 
cannot remain for another week for a promised interview 
with the venerable Pope Leo XIII. I am also sorry that 
Cavaliere Matteo Prochet, whom we welcomed to Chicago 
three years ago at the meeting of the Evangelical Alliance, 
is at present away from Rome. 

It is impossible to summarize my fresh impressions of 
the city of the Csesars and of the Pontiffs. But I will refer 
to a few things which have moved us most deeply. In the 
superb Vatican library and museums, among three hundred 
churches and near them a half-score Egyptian obelisks, 
inscribed with the name of some papal pontifex maximus, 
one feels that this is indeed the city of the popes. While 
there is much in the forms and ideas of the great Roman 
church with which I am not in harmony, while my heart 
sinks when I see the pilgrims climbing the Holy Staircase on 
their knees, and when I read the promises of indulgence 
and behold the acts of worship given to the Bambino, I 
feel as perhaps never before the wondrous charm and 
power and present revived vigor of Catholicism. One can- 
not see what beautiful and lofty conceptions have gone into 
so many of the statues and pictures and altars without 
realizing that a large part of revealed truth has here been 
embodied and portrayed, and that many find in it peace 
and strength. Still, I do not look to Italy, but to the 
Catholic Church as it exists in the United States, for the 
spirit, method, and ideals which may yet bring this vener- 
able communion into what seems to me completer har- 
mony with modern science, modern liberty, and modem 
aspirations. 

We felt the solemn charm and .beauty of modern Rome 
in an evening drive on the Pincian hill, where a thousand 



ROME AND NAPLES. 21/ 

carriages brought before us, not only the princely visitors 
attending the royal marriage, but the Roman aristocracy 
and the representatives of the diverse population of the 
city. The mighty dome of St. Peter's assumed something 
of its proper magnitude and majesty when seen at sunset 
from the Pincian gardens. But old, imperial Rome makes 
an even deeper impression. You feel that there were 
" giants in those days," monsters though some of them 
doubtless were. On the Appian Way, still paved with the 
broad flagstones over which once rolled the triumphal cars 
of the Caesars, in the presence of the long, ruined aqueduct 
stretching over the Campagna like the bones of an infinite 
serpent ; in the Baths of Caracalla and Domitian ; amid 
the solid brick-heaps of the Palatine Hill, once covered with 
marble ; beneath the arches of Constantine and Titus ; 
in the various forums, filled with broken columns and other 
fragments of fallen temples, and in the sublime Pantheon, 
the one imperial building still standing in much of its origi- 
nal glory, one cannot fail to summon before him a vision of 
that mighty world of Rome into which in the first century 
a few obscure men from Judea entered with the Christian 
Gospel. 

After all, it is the Apostles, and especially St. Paul, who, 
making Rome a part of sacred history and geography, lend 
to it the deepest interest. In the Mamertine Prison, dark, 
terrible, which St. Paul may have occupied ; on the Pala- 
tine Hill, where the apostolic captive lived for a time amid 
Caesar's household ; on the Appian Way, by which he made 
his journey to the Eternal City ; at the Ostian Gate, where 
the Pyramid of Cestius still stands, which he saw on the 
last day of his life and from which he walked to his execu- 
tion, — I have felt anew that it was good to follow again in 
the footsteps of that Apostle who knew that the Gentiles 
would ultimately receive his message. I have walked 
through the catacombs of St. Calixtus, where the early 
Church hid itself and buried its dead ; this evening we 
stood in the moonlight within the Colosseum's walls, amid 



2l8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

the " chief reHcs of almighty Rome," and in the solemn 
shadows felt the presence and moral grandeur of the early 
Christian martyrs ; and I have lately said to myself more 
than once, " Rome is the proper introduction to the more 
ancient and sacred world of Jerusalem, toward which our 
faces are soon to be set." But we earnestly and affection- 
ately hope to see the city of the Tiber again, on account of 
herself. Are not our hopes likely to be fulfilled? This 
morning we piously flung our copper coins into the Trevi 
fountain. 

Our ride from Rome to Naples lasted from five in the 
evening till near mJdnight. Climbing the heights between 
the Alban and Sabine mountains, we had our final view, in 
the crimson twilight, of the Campagna. There is not much 
of history, comparatively speaking, that thrusts itself upon 
you in this southward journey to the Bay of Naples. The 
immense Benedictine monastery at Casino has become a 
national school. Aquino summons before you the tall and 
saintly shadow of Thomas Aquinas. Caserta, the Versailles 
of Naples, showed us its royal palace as we rushed by in 
the moonlight. But our eyes awaited two spectacles, 
grander than any relics of human achievement, — the broad 
bay which to La Signora was the first view of the Mediter- 
ranean, and the great fiery sides of that burning mountain 
under whose fateful shadow happy-hearted Naples was 
quietly sleeping. 

Our hotel, the Continental, looks out immediately upon 
the Vesuvian Bay. Right before us, as we opened our 
windows in the morning, was the long rim of the harbor, 
out of which, two hundred feet away, rose the massive 
Castello del Ovo, or Egg Castle. Our first joy in Naples, 
after receiving and devouring the American mail, was a 
visit to the celebrated aquarium in the centre of a beautiful 
pleasure-ground called the Villa Nazionale. It belongs to 
the zoological station, which was established by a German 
naturalist for the thorough study of the flora and fauna of 
the Mediterranean. It is now supported by contributions 



ROME AND NAPLES. 219 

from nearly all the civilized governments, including our 
own. Naturalists are sent here to avail themselves of the 
unequalled opportunities of the Institution, and many uni- 
versities have their Prix de Naples, the winning of which by 
some young naturalist will give him a year's study at this 
famous marine station. 

The aquarium itself is the finest in the world, and La 
Signora declared that it was the only thing in Europe thus 
far discovered that surpassed the exhibits at the Columbian 
Fair. The cool, translucent depths of these great water- tanks 
are beautiful with the most interesting and various types of 
marine life. One can almost see the transition from the 
highest vegetable to the lowest animal forms. The rich or 
dehcate colorings of some of these creatures make the can- 
vases of even the Italian masters look cheaply artificial. 
Here we stared wonderingly at the miracle of life, as it ap- 
pears in living and various colored corals, in the strangest- 
looking — shall I say plants or animals ? — rising and 
branching out into the most delicate palm-like forms, in 
sea-anemones, in soft pearl-colored and winged fish, rain- 
bow-striped, and as fragile in appearance as the frailest 
nautilus. Other kinds of life abound, not so attractive, 
although there is a fascination in gigantic lobsters, hor- 
rible crabs, and great white flat fish that look like 
caricatures of the finny tribe ; in electric rays, which we 
were permitted to touch, and even in the octopus. Of 
this latter monster there were five specimens, and we saw 
the attendant drop a live crab into the tank to show us how 
the terrible creature enjoys his breakfast. How would the 
Buddhist theory that it is wrong ever to take away life 
which one cannot replace, survive, if the gentle Dharmapala 
found himself in the clutches of this marine terror? 

For nearly three thousand years men have Hved and 
died in Naples. The name Neapolis is Greek, and the 
New City, as it was called so many hundreds of years ago, 
is passing through the processes of modern transformation. 
The streets through which we drove were broad, clean, and 



220 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

well-lighted. A university with four thousand students is 
here, and a rich and highly cultivated aristocracy. But the 
number of really well-to-do people in Naples, as in Rome 
and Florence, to an American seems small. Two or three 
families — such is the ambition to drive — sometimes com- 
bine to purchase a stylish coach, and they take turns in 
appearing on the streets with a gorgeous coachman and foot- 
man. But the market-places are as full of picturesque rags 
as ever. Beggars abound, and the dirt which is kept from 
the pavements is found on the faces of the children. Cab- 
drivers are a pestilence, though the rates, either by the 
course or by the hour, are low enough. While you are 
gazing pensively out over the placid bay to the rocky Isle 
of Capri, with its dark memories of the Emperor Tiberius, 
or are looking up to the Castle of St. Elmo, which domi- 
nates the town, or are dreaming of Virgil as you turn your 
eyes toward the Grotto of Posilipo, where the Mantuan 
bard wrote his yEneid, and where Petrarch planted a 
laurel by the poet's tomb, the rascally and " cantankerous " 
cab-driver is screaming in broken French some infamous 
proposition to give you a drive to Vesuvius or Pompeii for 
some diabolical price ! 

About noon the steam-yacht " Midnight Sun " anchored 
in the Bay of Naples, having made the voyage from Mar- 
seilles. Driving with our trunks and hand-luggage to the 
docks by the custom-house, I soon made a bargain with a 
venerable seaman to transfer us in his boat to the steamer. 
For three lire, or francs, the ancient mariner promised to 
put us and ours on shipboard. But his assistants extracted 
a few coppers beyond this sum before we and our luggage 
found ourselves on deck. Here we caught our first sight of 
our Mediterranean companions, — a pleasant and good- 
natured company of people, with whom we knew we should 
be at home. A comfortable state-room and seats beside 
Mr. Lunn at the table had been reserved for us, and hence- 
forth I felt that I had no further responsibilities, no more 
plans to make, time-tables to examine, tickets to purchase. 



ROME AND NAPLES. 221 

bargains to drive, bills to pay. We were to be " personally 
conducted." A steam-launch took us to the shore ; we 
drove to the station, entered railway-carriages marked 
" Midnight Sun," and were soon on the way to Pompeii. 
On arriving there, we were piloted through bands of beg- 
gars to the gateway of the ruined city; and soon, divided 
into smaller parties, we began our explorations under com- 
petent guides. 

For three hours we wandered leisurely through the streets, 
private houses, markets, temples, forum, theatres, baths, and 
villas of the ancient city. Excavations have been going on 
for nearly one hundred and fifty years, and half a century 
more may be required to complete the unearthing of Pom- 
peii. Remarkable progress has been made since I was 
here. I am more than ever surprised at the elegance and 
even luxury which prevailed in the first century in this city 
of twenty-five thousand souls. The great catastrophe of the 
year 79 was preceded by an earthquake, sixteen years 
earHer, which did for Pompeii what the fire of 1871 did for 
Chicago, giving the citizens an opportunity of building more 
splendidly. Most of my readers are familiar with the de- 
tails of the final destruction. Vesuvius first covered the 
town with three feet of ashes, and then dropped over it 
red-hot pumice stones to the depth of seven feet. New 
showers and subsequent eruptions covered the city to the 
depth of nearly twenty feet. This sort of destruction has 
preserved for us one complete specimen of the hfe of an- 
tiquity, in which there were many things to admire. The 
streets, though usually narrow, were well paved, and the 
pavements endured so long that the chariot wheels wore 
deep ruts into the stones. Large blocks at the crossings 
enabled the Pompeiian ladies to go to the other side with- 
out soiling their sandals or calling in the aid of a policeman. 
The signs over the shops were much more modest than 
those in England and America. Some of the wine-jars 
which we saw were as large and cool as a small cellar. 
Many of the richest treasures of the old city are now placed 



222 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

in the great national museum of Naples, which contains also 
the famous Farnese Hercules and the Farnese Bull. 

To me the streets and houses of the old city are more 
interesting than the treasures which have been carried off. 
Everything here is well preserved and well protected. The 
old life was full of beauty, and the abominations are not 
numerous. From a mound on the edge of the excavated 
city a sublime view is given of this whole region ; the um- 
brella-pines, the olives, the vineyards, the villages, the bay 
with its islands, the city, and the great smoking top of the 
volcano. Fortunately for the comfort of travellers and their 
deliverance from pestiferous sharpers, compared with whom 
the old Niagara Falls hackmen were saints, Messrs. Thomas 
Cook and Son now convey travellers from Naples to the cone 
of Vesuvius, having constructed for a part of the ascent and 
descent a wire-rope railway. I remember what it was in 
the old days to climb to the top of the volcano. Still it 
was great sport to run down the ash-covered cone, even 
though you were chased by beggars and bargainers from the 
edge of the crater to the suburbs of Naples. Then these 
old experiences furnished you a theodicy which fairly well 
justified the fiery eruptions ! 

As we waited for our return train in the beautiful twilight, 
the beggars renewed their attacks, and, more persuasive 
still, an old peasant with his violin and two tiny children, 
gave us a very noisy concert. The little boy and girl had, 
if not throats of nightingales, throats of brass, and their 
repertoire was " simply great." What would Italy be to 
the English-speaking traveller if mendicancy and out-door 
music were banished ? It would still be the land of poetry 
and romance, of the "vine-clad hill and conquering spear," 
the land of love and sunshine, of art and passion, of 
splendor and heroism, of great hopes and still grander 
memories. 

It was two hours after our return before the " Midnight 
Sun " set sail. The evening was brilliant, and the nearly full 
moon cast her silvery waves over the spacious Neapolitan 



ROME AND NAPLES. 223 

Bay. Around the shores, from the masts of a hundred 
ships, from the city cHmbmg upward to the hills, and from 
a score of neighboring villages, twinkled innumerable lights. 
Back of all this illumination rose the mountainous amphithe- 
atre, while the fiery summit of volcanic Vesuvius gave a touch 
of solemn terror to the wondrous scene. Boats crowded 
with Neapolitan traffickers clung to the side of the ship, and 
kept up a comical din. Canes, peaches, pears, grapes, 
straw- hats, photographs, coral necklaces, all sorts of lava- 
ware, souvenirs, and a great variety of jewelry were vo- 
ciferously offered for sale by these men and women, who 
held candles over their treasures to show us their dazzling 
quaUty. Trinkets offered for five shillings, which was 
"much less than the price in the shops," were gladly dis- 
posed of for one shilling. 

The next morning the sea was as placid and bright as 
ever, and we found ourselves in the neighborhood of another 
volcano, Stromboli. In a few hours both the Italian and 
Sicilian shores came in sight and drew nearer to each other, 
and amid much admiration of the beautiful colors on these 
rocky coasts we passed through the straits of Messina with 
no apparent peril either from Charybdis on the one hand or 
from Scylla on the other. The sirens we carried with us in 
the boat. A third volcano, nothing less noteworthy than 
the height of Etna, came into distant view during the after- 
noon ; but I confess to have been peacefully sleeping at the 
time, so that I gained no new vision of the great mountain 
which I once climbed. Last night we crossed the Adriatic, 
and early this forenoon we came in sight of the islands 
of Cephalonia and Zante. Three years ago the maritime 
canal across the isthmus of Corinth, begun in Roman im- 
perial times, was completed. There is now no need of 
" fetching a compass " around the Peloponnesus in order to 
reach Athens. The island of Pelops is at last an island, 
and our journey is shortened by two hundred and two miles. 
The voyage between Cephalonia and Zante has been a 
dream of peace, brightness, and beauty realized. From the 



224 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

ship these rocky island-hills look barren, and one is aston- 
ished that together these two islands support a population 
of one hundred and twenty thousand. Immediately north- 
east of Cephalonia is seen rocky, irregular Ithaca, most 
famous of Grecian isles. It is impossible to sail over the 
" wine-colored deep," which once rippled about the prow of 
Ulysses, without thoughts of Homer, How could he have 
been always blind, and sung so frequently of the colored 
sea? Zante, of course, brought to mind the eloquent and 
broad-minded Archbishop who came to the Exposition in 
1893, and who, after completing his voyage around the 
world, died in his own beloved island, a few days after his 
return. We have already sailed through the Gulf of Patras, 
on the north shore of which is Mesolonghi, where Marco 
Bozzaris died in battle and Lord Byron of a fever. . 

Over what width of waters can one glide that so stirs up 
the imagination ! We are on the sea which was the centre 
of the ancient empires — Phoenicia, Egypt, Carthage, 
Greece, Rome — and is now strewn with their wrecks. It is 
the sea over which the Tyrians sailed beyond the Pillars of 
Hercules to the coasts of Britain ; the sea which bore up the 
fleets of Caesar and Augustus, which carried Paul on his 
stormy voyage to Italy, and which first tried the daring of 
young Columbus. Some of the chief naval battles of his- 
tory — Salamis, Actium, Lepanto, Aboukir — have been 
fought on Mediterranean waves. Moslem and Christian, the 
crescent and the cross, have clashed against each other 
over the surface of this land-locked world of waters. It is 
now the highway of commerce to Egypt and farthest Ind, 
and the common meeting-place of Africa, Asia, and Europe. 
It is to ancient history what the Atlantic is to modern 
history and what the Pacific may be to the millennium. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

ATHENS. 

A FTER a pleasant voyage we anchored near the en~ 
■^^- trance to the new Corinth Canal, and found ourselves 
in the midst of a most beautiful and interesting scene. Far 
to the north and west were the peaks of Parnassus and 
Cithaeron. Near by, on the isthmus, was the little town of 
new Corinth, and back of it, and of the site of the old city, 
rose the lofty and very commanding height of Acro-Co- 
rinthus. The opulent and luxurious and corrupt Corinth of 
antiquity has been swept away. But a company of Chris- 
tians of the first century, living in the midst of that splendid 
luxury, once received a letter from a Roman citizen of 
Jewish blood, who had formerly preached to them the 
Gospel. It was they who first read from that Epistle these 
words : " And now abideth faith, hope, love, these three ; 
but the greatest of these is love." In that letter they also 
read, " For I delivered unto you first of all that which I 
also received, how that Christ died for our sins, according 
to the Scriptures ; and that he was buried, and that he rose 
again, the third day, according to the Scriptures." My 
mind was busy building in imagination the vanished town, 
picturing the eager company of humble disciples (not many 
mighty were called), and trying to summon before me the 
scene, perhaps in the house of Aquila and Priscilla, when, 
in their hearing, was read Paul's own account of his Co- 
rinthian ministry : " I determined not to know anything 
among you save Jesus Christ and Him crucified." The 
letter which these humble men and women held in their 
hands has become a part of the world's sacred literature.. 

15 



226 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

If the original autograph could now be found, it would be 
perhaps the choicest relic on the earth. But the written 
words, in one form or another, have outlasted the marts and 
temples of the proud commercial metropolis of Greece. 

The passengers of the " Midnight Sun " were early on deck 
to watch the Greek tug as it pulled our big steamer three 
miles and a half through the Corinth canal. This engineer- 
ing work, one hundred feet wide and of the length just 
mentioned, seems small beside Chicago's drainage channel, 
but most of the excavation is deeper. We looked up be- 
tween walls of smooth yellow dirt and sandstone one hun- 
dred and seventy feet. Our Greek pilot and the Greek tug 
did not manage their task very skilfully. Four or five times 
our big iron ship bumped heavily against the stone sides of 
the canal, and once we knocked off a telegraph wire. All 
of our huge rope fenders were torn out of the sailors' hands, 
and finally our good captain, who could have managed the 
whole affair better alone, began to berate the pilot, saying, 
" I can't speak Greek, but I know how she ought to go." 
At last, turning white, he shouted to the officer who stood 

in the prow, " Mr. Mossman, make that fool go to the 

windward!" Many of the passengers were thankful "to 
have their own feelings so forcibly expressed. 

After we had passed through the canal, we caught a 
glimpse of the site of the old Isthmian games and also of 
the port of Cenchrea. In that port once lived a friend and 
helper of the great Apostle, and from it, about eighteen 
hundred and forty years ago, she set sail for Italy, having 
in her possession what some of the most illustrious modern 
philosophers have deemed the grandest of human composi- 
tions. In her box, bundle, or travelling-bag, or somewhere 
on her person, Phoebe carried Paul's letter to the Romans. 
If her ship had been lost at sea, it appears possible that 
the history of Christendom might have been changed. 
Think of Martin Luther without his most effective weapons ! 
Think of the Christian Church never able to read, " There 
is therefore now no condemnation to them who are in 



ATHENS. 227 

Christ Jesus." Only a few marble remnants of the ancient 
life of these Greek shores now remain ; but that letter 
which the good woman with the sun-bright name once 
carried across these sun-bright waters abides, a living force, 
a part of that Word of the Lord that endureth forever. 

We are now in the harbor of Pirseus. Three days 
have been given to the study of things on shore. Our 
luncheons have been at the Hotel de Grande Bretagne, and 
our nights have been spent on the steamer. There are 
Greek, French, Russian, and British warships in the harbor, 
and last evening the British midshipmen came over to 
dance on deck with some of our young ladies. The 
steam-launch and boats of the " Midnight Sun " have been at 
our service, and tickets have been furnished every day for 
the three-mile railroad ride to Athens. I suppose that 
there are many persons to whom Athens would mean but 
little. To me, from boyhood, it has been a magic name, 
and its honor and glory have been almost as dear to me 
as to those who fought at Marathon, or who heard the 
dramas of JEschylus and Aristophanes, or proudly saw the 
quarries of Attica exalted and idealized into the Parthe- 
non. Did I not in college days champion the claim of 
Athens to the foremost place of all cities in tlie annals of 
time ? And did I not fight the battles of that " fierce 
democracy " against aristocratic and stupid Sparta on the 
one hand, and despotic Macedon on the other? To me 
Athens was indeed " the eye of Greece, mother of arts and 
eloquence." Her brief supremacy was, in truth, the golden 
age of the ancient world. 

So little is left of her former glory in visible monuments 
that one must carry much to Athens in the way of knowl- 
edge, appreciation, or sentiment, or he may carry little 
away. Attica, and indeed all Greece, seems very barren. 
Travellers, especially those coming from well-watered, green, 
and fruitful Italy, are surprised to see the stony and 
desolate hills, the dried-up water-courses and the dusty 
fields. The " whispering stream " of the Ilissus, which rolls 



228 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

in Milton's verse, is as dry as any canyon in Arizona or any 
wady of Palestine. But few of tlie hills seem to have any 
trees on them. The Turk blasted and burned the land be- 
fore he left it. He has been the great assassin of all earthly 
beauty and fertility, and Greece drank of his cruelty to the 
bitter dregs. Athens has been the spoil, as Macaulay once 
wrote, of " Romans, Turks, and Scotchmen." But of these, 
only the Turks had any lust of destruction for its own sake. 
Rome adorned her great capital with the plundered products 
of Grecian chisels, and Lord Elgin's rich spoil of Phidian 
marbles is sacredly treasured in the British Museum, where 
Turkish hammers cannot demolish nor Ottoman thieves 
break through and steal. These finest treasures of art are 
but the fragments of statues which the Turk had wantonly 
mutilated. And before he was driven out of Greece he 
burned all the forests that he could destroy. 

Though the region about Athens appears desolate, sixty 
years of Greek independence have raised the old town from 
a population of six thousand to a population of one hundred 
and fifty thousand. The port of Athens, whose old name, 
the Piraeus, had been lost under Turkish rule, now numbers 
nearly forty thousand inhabitants, while the harbor is alive 
with vessels. The Greek sky remains unchanged. The 
violet ether of Athens is as beautiful as when Sophocles and 
Praxiteles " hid beauty safe from death in words or stone." 
Then the Greek hills, with all their barrenness, are bathed 
in the most beautiful hues. Furthermore, there are " sunny 
spots of greenery" which the Greek farmer has scattered 
over the Attic plain. The olive grove, which was '■'■ Plato's 
retirement," is wide and flourishing on the edge of the city. 
Along the streets of Athens we found pepper-trees, like 
those of California. The vineyards, aided by irrigation, 
produce an abundance of grapes, and the huge clusters 
which we saw in the Athenian markets were like unto the 
grapes of Eshcol. On the dusty drive to Eleusis were sev- 
eral groves of feathery pines, and in some of the gardens 
of Athens the roses were as beautiful as in the gardens of 



ATHENS. 229 

Gottingen last June. I have rarely seen finer bouquets 
than those with which friends in Athens have recently 
decked our tables. I feel like amending Byron and 
saying, " 'T is Greece, and lovely Greece once more." 

Among the interesting and amusing sights of Attica have 
been droves of meek turkeys driven like sheep ; Albanian 
peasants' costumes, the voluminous folds of white cloth about 
the waist, the close-fitting white leggings, ending in strangely 
decorated shoes ; and the tiny donkeys, loaded with baskets 
piled high with grapes and melons, or balanced burdens of 
wood, brick, or stone. The Greeks do not beg like the 
Italians, and the cabmen are not disposed to quarrel, but 
cheating in the exchange of currencies is common enough. 
Every one who knew Greek had a good deal of amusement 
in trying to make out the meaning of the signs, or to read 
the morning newspaper giving telegraphic reports from 
London and accounts of the arrival of the "Midnight Sun" 
in the sonorous language of Demosthenes. Sometimes one 
looks on a scene so foreign to his usual observations that he 
cannot forget it. We met the following procession not far 
from the suburbs of Athens : First came a donkey ridden 
by an old woman carrying a goose ; then came a donkey 
bearing a young woman carrying a baby ; last came a don- 
key ridden by a little son of Greece carrying a very big 
basket. The charm of the whole scene was the perfect un- 
consciousness and self-possession of all. 

In Athens you find all the wares of every store in the 
streets or windows, and most of the occupations are carried 
on in front of the shop. This makes the streets a series of 
pictures, and in some respects is an improvement over our 
habit of hiding the busy workmen away in ill-ventilated 
rooms. But what distresses one most, after leaving North- 
ern Europe, is to observe what poor care people generally 
take of their persons, faces, and clothes. That self-respect 
which leads to constant neatness and cleanliness, nearly 
everywhere observable in Germany and England, is pain- 
fully absent. 



230 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

One of the chief attractions of Athens is the National 
Museum of Antiquities. The building itself is of Greek 
architecture, adorned with marble copies of famous antique 
statues. It gave me a strange, pathetic feeling to see among 
them the Apollo Belveciere. Has the human mind already 
reached its limits along the line of sculptural art, and for a 
beautiful form must we go back to the work of hands that 
have been dead for more than two thousand years? Of the 
old art in the Museum nothing interested me so much as 
the sculptural reliefs representing parting friends clasping 
hands for the last time. It seemed to me that these fathers, 
children, wives, husbands of the old Greek world were un- 
consciously, in their tender sorrow, pleading for the advent 
of Him who " brought life and immortality to light." Dr. 
Schliemann's collection of cups, amulets, rings, necklaces, 
golden disks, knives, and other weapons from the tombs of 
Mycenae have great artistic and archaeological value, though 
to me they were not so interesting as the almost numberless 
treasures from Tanagra, terra-cotta figurines of most deli- 
cate beauty, a veritable resurrection of ancient Grecian life. 
You feel the nobility of the old Greek religion with all its 
idolatry and other degradations when you see the grand 
head of Minerva in this Museum and the equally dignified 
and even more attractive head of Demeter at Eleusis. It 
may be a failure to appreciate the importance of the earlier 
and later periods of Athenian history, to confine one's ad- 
miration to the productions of the time of Pericles, but it 
always gave me a pleasant feeling to overhear the French- 
speaking guides say of this or that thing that it did or did 
not belong to "/c? belle epoque.'''' 

Ten years ago the great temple of Eleusis was dug out, 
and is now one of the most beautiful ruins in Greece. 
Some of the fragments are colossal, and many of them are 
very lovely. To reach Eleusis we drove through vineyards 
and olive groves, and then along the ^gean shore, over 
a rocky hill and across the plain where, according to the 
Greek legend, the wheat, golden gift from Demeter, first 



ATHENS. 231 

grew on earth. Thirty miles from the quarries of Pentehcus, 
the huge marble blocks were brought, which the ancient 
faith built into this many- columned fane. To it went the 
great processions from Athens, to celebrate the Eleusinian 
mysteries, of which we know little, except that they had to 
do with the worship of the beneiicent forces of nature, and 
that those who shared in them were filled with kindlier 
thoughts and cheered with the sweet hope of immortality. 

On one marble block in Eleusis I found a strange Greek 
inscription, " To the priest of Apollinarios," which La Si- 
gnora photographed with me standing beside it, on account 
of my devotion to a famous aqueous beverage. From Eleusis 
we had a fine view of the island and waters of Salamis, and 
of the promontory from which Xerxes witnessed the fatal 
fight. The Persian conqueror had already burnt Athens, 
and the women and children of the Athenian warriors assem- 
bled at Eleusis, and watched the battle which was not only 
to decide their own fate, but was also to determine " whether 
Europe should remain Europe." There are few spots on 
the surface of the earth where the remote past becomes 
such a strenuous and inspiring force. One is grateful to 
the English poet for fashioning such words as these, — 

" A king sat on the rocky brow 
Which looks o'er sea-born Salamis ; 
And ships, by thousands, lay below, 
And men in nations — all were his ! 
He counted them at break of day, 
And when the sun set where were they ? " 

The hordes of Asiatic barbarism had been smitten by 
brave Greek hands, one of which — that of ^Eschylus — a 
few years later was to write the " Prometheus Bound." In 
another drama ^schylus describes this most famous of all 
sea-fights. The old strife between Asiatic despotism and 
western freedom, however, is not yet ended. One of the 
foulest and bloodiest scenes of the great drama is still being 
enacted by the crime-stained and polluted waters of the 
Bosporus. 



232 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

It gave us a grateful thrill to stand by the statue of the 
English poet who sang and died for Greek liberty, and to 
read upon it the words " Hellas, Byron." We explored 
the great Theatre of Dionysus, at the foot of the Acropolis, 
where nearly three thousand Athenians sometimes gathered 
to hear the plays of ^schylus, Sophocles, or Euripides. 
We sat in the chairs of marble, still unbroken, inscribed 
with the names of Greek priests, and wondered at the rich 
sculptures, representing Bacchus and his satyrs, which still 
adorn the front of the stage. One of ray companions re- 
marked that the connection between the theatre and the 
liquor business was rather ancient. We visited the Odeion 
of Herodes Atticus, built by a Roman citizen who loved 
Athens, and the gigantic Corinthian columns of the Temple 
of Olympian Zeus. Five of us by clasping hands were just 
able to reach around one of these columns. 

We saw also the Tower of Eolus and the old agora, or 
market-place, and we climbed the bare rocky eminence, 
the Pnyx, where stood the Bema, in sight of the Acropolis 
and of the sea, where spoke the ancient orators " whose 
resistless eloquence shook the arsenal and fulmined over 
Greece to Macedon and Artaxerxes' throne." We visited 
the stadium, now being rebuilt in marble, to accommodate 
fifty thousand people, — a patriotic Athenian living in Alex- 
andria bearing all the expense. Here on the site of the 
old stadium were revived last spring the Olympic games 
wherein our American athletes won many laurels. The 
race from Marathon, however, on Marathon day, was won 
by a Greek peasant, who became the hero of the hour. 
Wine merchants offered him drink, restaurants food, tailors 
clothing, and a score of fathers the hands of their daugh- 
ters. The historic runner who bore from the field of 
Marathon the news of the great victory fell dead at the 
end of his course, and we saw his face in marble among 
the treasures of the Museum. 

But I must close this chapter by telling my readers some- 
thing of the gem of Athens, the Acropolis, the temple-cov- 



ATHENS. 233 

ered hill which overlooks the city, with walls reaching back 
to the beginnings of Athenian history, venerable even in 
the time of Themistocles. After we had climbed the steps 
up to the level of the highest part of the Propytea, we saw 
a good-natured Englishwoman of large proportions toiling 
after us, and heard her say to the guide, " So this is the 
Necropolis? " Her funny mistake had, after all, some truth 
in it, for what is that summit but the city of the mighty 
dead? Some German scholars have built up from frag- 
ments the little temple of Nike Apteros, or the Wingless 
Victory, replacing with terra-cotta one or two friezes which 
Lord Elgin had taken away. A young English lady, learn- 
ing of what had been done, informed us that she was dis- 
appointed in the Acropolis because so much of it was 
"imitation" ! Think of the ten thousand tons of carved 
marble still left on this glorious mount stigmatized as " imi- 
tation " ! Alas ! There is not left in the world to-day 
enough of skill and enough of the love of pure beauty to 
"imitate" the miracles of the Periclean age. 

The marks of cannon-balls from the various sieges which 
the Acropolis has suffered are visible on the Propylsea. 
But what nearly destroyed the Parthenon was the explosion 
of the Turkish powder-magazine in the sixteenth century. 
The Erechtheum, the lovely Ionic temple to the north of 
the Doric Parthenon, was used by a Turkish pasha for his 
harem. Next to the Turk's wholesale massacre of human 
beings comes in infernal brutality his destruction of the 
priceless marbles on the Athenian hill. It almost makes 
one weep to see the ruin that has been wrought. With 
knowledge and imagination we can reconstruct these broken 
fanes, set up once more the fallen columns, the metopes, 
the triglyphs, the friezes, the Phidian statues in the 
tympanum, and the gold and ivory statue of Pallas-Athene 
that stood in the central shrine, and even dream how all 
this beauty was enhanced by splendid coloring, which the 
timid art of to-day would not dare to use. But oh that 
the resources of Greece were adequate to the actual re- 



234 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

construction of what, in point of classic beauty, was the 
supreme achievement of the ancient world ! Perhaps gener- 
ous England will one day surrender to Athens the Elgin 
marbles, as she gave back to France the body of Napoleon. 
In the deep blue ether the shattered wonder of Pericles, 
Praxiteles, and Phidias still shines like a resplendent jewel. 
I have never been surprised by the extravagance of Emer- 
son's lines, — 

" Earth proudly wears the Parthenon 
As the best gem upon her zone." 

God gave to the Athenians, as to no others who have 
ever lived, the power to evoke deathless beauty out of 
stone. It was a delight to see that our companions, some 
of whom had not had any special preparation to appreciate 
classic art, were generally filled with a sense that something 
matchlessly beautiful had on.ce covered this hill-top. But 
most of us felt that something greater and more important 
to man's highest welfare had found expression on the lower 
neighboring summit of the Areopagus. We stood on Mars 
Hill almost in awe. People became silent. We felt that 
the Apostle Paul was near us, and we were glad to survey 
the sea and sky and rocks and temples which he looked 
upon as he stood there and spoke the wisest and greatest 
words which the city of Socrates and Plato ever heard. 
Some one asked for a New Testament, that Paul's address 
might be again spoken. As no copy of the Acts of the 
Apostles was forthcoming, I was asked to repeat Paul's ser- 
mon ; and this fortunately I was able to do. Heads were 
uncovered as I began with the courteous introduction, " Ye 
men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are very 
religious," and ended with, ''whereof He hath given wit- 
ness unto all men, in that He hath raised Him from the 
dead." 

I ventured to say that Paul's address was largely shaped 
by what he saw before him and around him. To the left is 
the Theseium, the temple and tomb of Theseus, still in good 
preservation. Right above the preacher, as above us, was 



ATHENS. 235 

the glory of the Acropohs, from which, in Paul's time, rose 
the great statue of Pallas Athene, with her spear and graven 
shield. Paul preached a God whom Athens ignorantly wor- 
shipped, a God who is Maker and Lord of all things, and 
therefore does not confine himself to " temples made with 
hands " and is not " worshipped with men's hands." After 
proclaiming a God who had made of one blood all nations, 
a God in whom we live and move and have our being, and 
after quoting with approval from a Pagan poet, the Apostle 
declares that since men are the offspring of God they should 
not think of the Godhead as " like unto gold or silver or 
stone graven by art and man's device." We had seen on 
the Acropolis where the gold and ivory statue of Pallas had 
stood, and we had seen a thousand marbles, from the neigh- 
boring quarries, beautifully graven by art and skilfully 
shaped by the devices of the master- sculptors of Greece. 

Three years ago the Archbishop of Zante sat one evening 
in my house, and we invited him to pronounce in Greek 
Paul's oration on Mars Hill, which he did with great dignity 
and eloquence. He told us that some English people in 
Athens whom he met on the Areopagus once made of him 
a similar request. The audience and the scenes and the 
recollection of the brave Apostle so inspired him that he 
gave the address with the deepest feeling, tears coming to 
his own eyes and to the eyes of his hearers. As I told this 
story this afternoon, our dragoman and interpreter was 
deeply interested, and said : " I knew the Archbishop of 
Zante, I have often seen him in Athens. He was a splen- 
did and big-hearted man." He spoke of his death with 
much regret. I am persuaded that multitudes of Chris- 
tians in i\merica, both Catholic and Protestant, have come 
into more appreciative relations with the old Greek Church 
on account of the actions and words of Archbishop Latas 
in America. 

The Acropolis was in some respects the centre of Athe- 
nian life, and the historian Freeman has named it " the spot 
where we may fairly say that the political history of the 



236 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

world begins." Athens was the school of Rome, and her 
philosophy furnished the types into which the new Christian 
doctrine was moulded. It is a long way back into the story 
of our race that we can look from this height of vision, 
standing amid the marbles which time has turned to a 
golden hue. But the actual view from the summit at the 
close of a perfect day is memorable, if not describable. 
The sky spreads its violet roof over all. Colors of strange 
beauty linger on the distant hills, like those of the Isle of 
Salamis. The surface of the sea is a pink pavement. Near 
by to the east is " the flowery hill, Hymettus, where the 
sound of bees' industrious murmur oft invites to studious 
musing." Farther to the left is the sharp point of Lyka- 
bettos, crowned with a Greek chapel, while near its foot 
is the home of the American Classical School. Beyond is 
Pentelicus, with its treasures of marble. At our feet lies 
the Athens of to-day, where such buildings stand out as the 
king's palace, the university, a gem of Greek art, and the 
Greek cathedral, now decorated with flags in honor of 
the new archbishop. When I inquired yesterday for the 
metropolitan Ghermanos, intending to call upon this large- 
minded man, with whom I had had some pleasant corre- 
spondence, I learned with sorrow of his recent death. 

The high hill nearest to the Acropolis on the west is 
named from the muses, and on its top is the reconstructed 
monument to Philopappus, the Phrygian friend of Athens. 
Near the base of the hill are seen the openings of what is 
called the prison of Socrates. As you look around from 
this " specular mount," you are conscious that one sight 
which you would be glad to witness is withheld from you. 

*' The mountains look on Marathon, 
And Marathon looks on the sea ; " 

but from the Acropolis only the " inner eye " looks upon that 
immortal plain. Right below us, however, and to the west, 
rises the Areopagus, where St. Paul preached both natural and 
revealed theology in the spirit of the most comprehensive 



ATHENS. 237 

love. Among those who clave to him after the sermon was 
Dionysius the Areopagite, and to-day we visited a church 
bearing the name of this Athenian believer, perhaps the 
only man in St. Paul's Athens whose name has come down 
to us. Ought there not to be a church to the woman named 
Damaris, who also received the Pauline message ? 

Much of " the glory that was Greece " has passed away. 
Her gifts to the world of beauty have, however, become a 
part of our civilization. The heroic battle on yonder waters 
of Salamis, by which Europe was saved from barbarian 
Asiatic hordes, will never die from human recollection. But 
the solemn and truthful words of the great-hearted Apostle, 
spoken long ago on that rocky hill which in this evening 
twilight is not visible from the Pirseus, come closer to me 
now than Athenian art and heroism. Those words are the 
explanation and justification of my most important activities 
in recent years, and but for them my face would not now 
be set towards India. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 

/^N the first day of November we steamed up the Darda- 
^-^ nelles, and caught our first gUmpse of Moslem villages 
and minaretted mosques. Both the European and the Asiatic 
shores were barren. The Turkish fortifications, at the nar- 
rowest point of the strait, are formidable. British ironclads, 
however, could push their way through, if willing to risk 
some of their number. The better way, however, would be 
to buy the Turkish commander. He and all his tribe are 
for sale. Once through the Dardanelles the British fleet 
would find themselves in no trap, as some have asserted. 
The ships could easily supply themselves with coal, and a few 
shells sent into the Yildiz Kiosk, where the Sultan now lives, 
would make him as meek and timid as a certain Roman 
emperor when he felt of the sharp point of a dagger. It is 
the general conviction in Constantinople that the shade of 
Nero blushed on hearing of the Sultan's performances, 
knowing that the darkest laurels of infamy henceforth must 
rest on the brow of Abdul. 

We had to stop at the Dardanelles, and show our papers 
to the Turkish officials, who came out in a little tug called 
the " Game Cock." Farther along we passed the site of 
Abydos, where Xerxes built his bridge of boats, where 
Leander used to swim over to greet his beloved Hero, and 
where Byron performed the same feat to show that he too 
could do it. At eleven o'clock Sunday we had an English 
church service on deck, with preaching by the chaplain of 
the Bishop of Jerusalem. At nine o'clock in the evening I 
preached in the saloon, the captain reading from the Scrip- 



CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 239 

tures, which rested on the Union Jack, and the Reverend 
Mr. Parkes, of the Wesleyan Methodist church, Birmingham, 
offering prayer, in which he remembered the people of the 
United States who were so soon to settle a most important 
presidential election. We reached the Bosporus at mid- 
night ; but as no Turkish official appeared, we were com- 
pelled to drop anchor and " wait the throned day." 

This is my first visit to Constantinople. The vision 
which came to me on looking out of the porthole Monday 
morning, and during the hour when we sailed up past the 
Golden Horn, along the palace-lined shore of the Bosporus, 
and then came back to drop anchor by the Galata Bridge, 
is that of an imperial city most " beautiful for situation," 
even though it is now the curse "of the whole earth." It 
is the only capital which belongs to two continents. On the 
Asiatic side rises Scutari ; on the European side are the old 
city, Stamboul, with the domes and minarets of St. Sophia, 
and other magnificent mosques, with the Seraglio and its 
gardens, and across the Golden Horn, Galata and Pera, 
covering the loftier hills where the embassies and the 
European quarters are found. No other city of the world, 
not even Venice, can compare with Constantinople for mag- 
nificence of location. Here is the marriage of the sea and 
the seven-hilled shore ; and as one stands on the Galata 
Bridge, alive with people of all colors and costumes, he feels 
that this is the meeting-place of Europe, Asia, and Africa. 

The American consul at Athens strove to dissuade some 
of our party from visiting Constantinople at the present 
time, when at any moment permission may be given the 
Moslem mob to kill Christians of any kind. Quite a num- 
ber of us had our passports visaed at Athens by the Turkish 
consul. On our arrival all passports were called for, 
examined, and counted. Our ship was anchored by the 
quay close to the Galata Bridge, where the odors in the hot 
air were so offensive on Monday night that the next afternoon 
the vessel was anchored in the stream. Hundreds of Turks 
were at the wharf, and remained there during our stay. At 



240 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

nearly every porthole an Ottoman face peered in upon us. 
Some of the worst massacres occurred at the place where our 
ship lay and on the neighboring bridge. 

The conductor of our party, Mr. Holdsworth Lunn, coun- 
selled every one to ask no " pohtical questions " while on 
shore, to go about in groups of two or more, and to return 
to the ship by dusk. Soon after landing, Mrs. Newman, 
sister of Senator Thurston of Nebraska, Mrs. Howard, wife 
of Chevalier Howard of Jerusalem, La Signora and I, ac- 
companied by Paul, our Greek Catholic dragoman, entered 
a carriage and drove across the Galata Bridge. The crowd 
that surged either way, the head of nearly every man covered 
with a red fez, the women with partially veiled faces, squads 
of soldiers and mounted police, with officers in carriages, 
made one of the most picturesque spectacles in the world. 
But the bridge itself, with its miserable rough and rickety 
boarding, is in keeping with the whole Empire. The draw- 
bridge in the centre frequently gets stuck for hours, and the 
great crowd on either side grows to be an army. I was 
complaining of this bridge to an American resident of the 
city, and he said : "You remind me of the man who com- 
plained to the camel that his neck was crooked. The 
camel answered: 'Is any part of me straight?'" 

Soon we were in Stamboul, the old city, and drove 
through rough, filthy, crowded, and narrow streets, passing 
continually companies of murderous-looking Turkish sol- 
diers, and tall, black, finely dressed Ethiopian eunuchs, and 
women in silk gowns, closely veiled, followed by black 
maids, in commoner gowns, half veiled. We saw houses 
with latticed windows, to protect women from the public 
gaze, and felt ourselves far away from the light and liberty 
of Christian civilization. We were assailed by stenches so 
various and penetrating that some faces were distorted with 
actual pain at the odor. 

Our morning drive had its pleasant as well as its disagree- 
able features. I was glad to stand within St. Sophia, though 
the entrance to it is characteristically vile. The church 



CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 24 1 

which the Emperor Justinian built in the sixth century, say- 
ing, " I have vanquished thee, O Solomon ! " is one of the 
most important buildings in the world. The edifices which 
preceded St. Sophia and which were destroyed by fire reach 
back to Constantine. Since the occupation of the city by 
the Turks in 1453, it has been a mosque, and minarets have 
been added to it. Nearly everything Christian has been 
removed or painted over. We saw dimly on the gilded 
ceiling the face of Constantine. I found two small crosses 
on the stonework behind the gallery, and on the cornice 
over the Porta Basilica we saw the image of a dove hovering 
over an open book, on which are these words : " The Lord 
said, ' I am the door : by Me if any man shall enter in he 
shall be saved.' " The floor was covered with heavy mat- 
ting, on which we were permitted to walk after our shoes 
had been cased in slippers and the dragoman had paid the 
usual admission often piastres, or forty cents, for each person. 
Parts of the mosque are very shabby. Still, the total effect 
is impressive. Only a few worshippers were within, and the 
building seems to me more fitting, with its comparative sim- 
plicity and lack of rich adornment, to the temper of true 
worship than some of the Italian cathedrals. 

We have heard much of the recent massacres, and have 
pondered much on the character of Abdul. The ambassa- 
dors demanded again and again that orders should be given 
to put an end to the horrors, and they were put off with 
lying promises, as has been the Sultan's custom, until he 
was afraid to go further. I have been striving to learn from 
competent persons who have studied Abdul's character for 
years their explanation of his infamies. Undoubtedly he is 
a man of great ability, much general enhghtenment, and in- 
finite cunning. Of course, he does not deserve to be called 
an enhghtened ruler, for affairs have steadily degenerated 
under his management. A very intelligent English gentle- 
man, residing here for many years, said to me : " Things 
are much worse now than when I came ; they have been 

growing worse all the time. There used to be men of 

16 



242 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

respectability among the Sultan's advisers, but none are left. 
They have been dismissed or sent far away." The Turkish 
Empire is now governed by a gang of scoundrels, some of 
them covered with the most degrading vices, whom the 
Sultan has gathered around him at his palace outside the 
city ; or rather he has grasped all power in his own hands, 
and governs through these congenial tools. Undoubtedly 
he is moved by fear of the fanatics of Islam, who regard 
him, as he sometimes regards himself, as appointed of God 
to smite the unbeliever. It may be impossible to explain 
his motives in slaughtering his own subjects and ruining his 
empire. But these things are certain, that he fears for the 
permanency of his diabolic kind of rule in a country where 
there are so many Christian subjects belonging to a prolific 
and industrious nation, who have come into touch with the 
ideas of Western civilization, especially through American 
schools and colleges, and who know what good government 
ought to be and do. If he dared, he would overthrow the 
whole structure which heroic and faithful missionaries, teach- 
ers, and educators have built up in the last fifty years, just 
as he is now shutting up many of his own schools. Since 
Robert College helped to educate the men who made free 
Bulgaria, the five colleges, the forty-six high-schools, and 
the many common schools of our American missionaries, 
with their twenty thousand pupils, appear to him a menace. 
He regards himself as appointed to uphold the old Islamic 
order, and he is only doing on a large scale what his pred- 
ecessors have done in other times. The Austrian ambas- 
sador, who has been looking back into the history of the 
embassy, remarked not long since that some of the letters 
sent to Vienna one hundred and fifty years ago would serve 
without much alteration to-day. 

Why does not the Sultan persecute other Christians be- 
sides the Armenians ? The Turkish government did formerly 
persecute the Bulgarians after the present ruthless fashion. 
It does not attack Greek, Italian, French, English, Russian, 
and American Christians, for the most evident reasons, — it 



CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 243 

does not dare. There are six foreign gunboats in the har- 
bor of Constantinople. Furthermore, the Armenians alone 
among the Christians are a nationality in the Turk's empire, 
and one which the Sultan fears. Having got the jealous 
powers in a snarl and trap ; having, through the short- 
sighted cunning of Lord Beaconsfield, paralyzed for a long 
time the big right arm of England, — he experimented with 
butchering the Armenians, to see how far he could go 
safely. He found that he could go a long way in the re- 
mote provinces, and finally he let loose his murderers under 
the eyes of the ambassadors. The Constantinople massacres 
were child's play compared with what he had done elsewhere, 
and were unaccompanied by the horrors worse than murder ; 
but they were under the eyes of the Powers, and produced 
a tremendous sensation. The outraged ambassadors poured 
in their despatches to their governments ; but we are told 
that there was strange silence. The cabinets were dumb to 
their own representatives. Under these circumstances the 
Sultan may try his hand again, unless impending bankruptcy, 
an unpaid army, and smothered opposition from some of his 
own Moslem subjects, to say nothing of foreign interference, 
shall hold him back. 

In the chapter of horrors which I have referred to it is 
pleasant to remember that the acts of heroism in protecting 
innocent Armenians have not been confined to Christians. 
Noble Mohammedans have given shelter to their perse- 
cuted fellow- subjects. Turkish Islam may not be so hu- 
mane and hberal as the Mohammedanism of India, but 
Turkish Islam is not altogether bad. Missionaries have 
given me instances of courage, generosity, and humanity on 
the part of Mohammedans which are highly praiseworthy. 
We visited Robert College, spending one night in the beau- 
tiful home of Dr. and Mrs. Washburn, and also the girls' 
College in Scutari. The Reverend George F. Herrick of the 
Bible House was our companion in the visit to Scutari, and 
from him I gained much important information in regard to 
the missionary and educational work, somewhat crippled. 



244 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

but which even the recent horrors have not been able to 
destroy. The treasurer of the American Board has dis- 
tributed in the last year two hundred and fifty thousand 
dollars in relief work. Dr. Herrick and others spoke in 
warm praise of the labors of Clara Barton. Her services 
will be needed again in the coming winter, if thousands are 
not to be suffered to starve to death. From our ship we 
can look over to Scutari, where Florence Nightingale moved 
like an angel of mercy through the wards of a hospital. Her 
name, like Clara Barton's, always will be associated with the 
cause of humanity in the Turkish Empire. 

Down past Seraglio Point, the military school, the law 
courts, St. Sophia, and the Ahmedieh Mosque the good ship 
ploughed her way. The heat had been withering in Con- 
stantinople, as in Athens. The air was foul and stifling. 
When we parted from the Turkish capital, a low porten- 
tous cloud hung over the city. With no desire to return 
until the political and moral cloud shall be lifted, we 
plunged into the reading of our letters and papers, and 
were glad in this way to escape even the thought of the 
modern Babylon drunk with the blood of the saints and 
martyrs of Jesus Christ. Before leaving we had been prom- 
ised that a telegram from the embassy should reach us the 
next morning at the Dardanelles, if any news of the Ameri- 
can election had been received. About midnight we an- 
chored in the Hellespont, and when morning came a boat 
was sent ashore to gain permission to pass and to bring 
aboard any despatches. But no despatches were forthcom- 
ing. I complained to the secretary of our cruise. He 
thought it quite likely that a telegram had been sent ; but 
deliveries here are very uncertain. 

Letters are often very slow within the Turkish Empire. 
It sometimes requires fifteen days to get one from Con- 
stantinople to Smyrna. The only security for foreign mails 
is that the Powers have their own post-offices. Our let- 
ters go through British hands. The Turk is not to be 
trusted with the mails, and his censorship of the press is 



CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 245 

minute and exacting. Everything issued by tlie Bible 
Society is carefully examined, and publication often is 
tormentingly delayed. In a Sunday-School paper the 
Turkish word "star" is forbidden, and many Biblical ex- 
pressions which might be interpreted as reflecting on the 
Holy Turkish Empire are exscinded. A friend, seeing in an 
American's mail an American newspaper which condemned 
the Sultan, remarked : " This is a liberty which Russia 
would not allow." But the information soon came that 
Turkey also would not allow it. Such papers are brought 
in only through mails in the hands of foreign governments. 

As we looked a second time at the Turkish fortifications 
which guard the Dardanelles, many were our speculations 
as to the possibility of a British fleet's forcing a passage. 
The most interesting suggestion in regard to the matter 
which I have heard was made by an Illinois soldier who 
served four years with Grant. An English gentleman had 
quoted Admiral Hornby's report to the British government 
in regard to the peril and the probable loss of a part of the 
fleet. Some of his guns, he reported, were so mounted 
that they could not reach more than half-way up the cliff, 
while others would throw their shells over the top. The 
Illinois fighter under Grant said : " I should shut every- 
thing down, cover my ships with cotton bales, and run 
through without firing a gun. That 's the way we passed 
the fortifications at Vicksburg." 

It was a beautiful voyage which brought us, toward mid- 
night of November sixth, into the great harbor of Smyrna. 
We had passed by the site of Troy and the Isle of Tenedos, 
had glimpses of Mount Ida, and had sailed between Mity- 
lene and the Asiatic coast. When the sun had risen over 
the circle of hills surrounding the beautiful harbor, we found 
ourselves in the blue waters of a bay filled with ships of all 
nations and fronting the towers, domes, and minarets of a 
beautiful city. Along the shore are the principal thorough- 
fares of the European quarter, well-built, fine. The Mos- 
lem region is distinguished by the dark cypresses and the 



246 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

white minarets, while the bazaars occupy a portion of the 
ancient and now closed harbor. This city of two hun- 
dred and fifty thousand inhabitants, of whom only fifty 
thousand are Moslem, has a history reaching back three 
thousand years. It is associated with the kings of Lydia, 
with the birth of Homer, and with the enterprises of Ionian 
commerce. It is one of the seven cities which contended 
for the honor of Homer's birth, and the first of them in the 
well-known hexameter, — 

" Smyrna, Chios, Colophon, Salamis, Rhodos, Argos, Athenae." 

Under the successors of Alexander the Great, Smyrna 
had an eminent place among the cities of Asia, and during 
Roman times it combined many of the glories both of 
Athens and Corinth. It was the seat of one of the seven 
churches to which St. John sent his messages from Patmos. 
Here Polycarp, the favorite disciple of St. John, was 
burned. Smyrna suffered greatly during the Byzantine 
period, and through the long Mongol and Moslem wars. 
Timur the Tartar captured it, and left as a trophy a tower 
made of one thousand Christian heads. From Turks and 
earthquakes it has suffered severely; but modern French 
and Greek enterprise and the industry of Armenians have 
given it recently a measure of prosperity, although it never 
has reached its old-time splendor. 

" The * Ornament of Asia ' and the ' Crown 
Of fair Ionia.' Yes, but Asia stands 
No more an empress, and Ionia's hands 
Have lost their sceptre. Thou, majestic town, 
Art as a diamond on a faded robe: 
The freshness of thy beauty scatters yet 
The radiance of that sun of empire set, 
Whose disk sublime illumed the ancient globe. 
Thou sitt'st between the mountains and the sea ; 
The sea and mountains flatter thy array, 
And fill thy courts with grandeurs, not decay ; 
And power, not death, proclaims thy cypress-tree. 
Through thee, the sovereign symbols Nature lent 
Her rise, make Asia's fall magnificent." 



CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 247 

But my mind was not busy with the past or present of 
Smyrna, but with the spectacle presented in the harbor. 
Four war-ships of the American iieet shone in white beauty 
in the morning sun. Two fine black Italian ships and a 
French war-vessel also were there. At eight o'clock La 
Signora and I saw the stars and stripes run up from our 
four ships, while the white, red, and green, or the white, 
red, and blue rose proudly from the other vessels. Imme- 
diately the Italian band played " Hail Columbia," then 
" The Marseillaise," and then " Columbia, the Gem of the 
Ocean ! " Our throats fairly choked with patriotic feeling, 
and with an effort I said to some English friends, " The 
spirit of * Hail Columbia ' and the ' Marseillaise ' will yet 
be the death of this infernal Turkish business." 

But as yet we had no news — and it was Friday morn- 
ing — of the verdict of the American people. I had told 
my companions that I had no doubt of the issue. In 
my heart I believed that Americans were singing " Hail 
Columbia" with new hope and patriotic exultation. After 
breakfast those who were to visit Smyrna and Ephesus em- 
barked in four boats for the landing. Soon we drew 
within hailing distance of a boat from one of the American 
war-ships, manned by white-jacketed negro sailors. At the 
top of my voice I called out twice: "Who is elected?" 
After the second call there came back over the waters the 
expected word, which brought a cheer from all American 
and from some English hps, " McKinley." We shall 
never forget that moment of ecstasy. The long agony was 
over. The great republic had not been misled, and as 
the bright sun shone over the hills of Asia and illumined 
the spacious harbor with golden glory, I said in my heart, 
'' This is God's day and Columbia's ! " Later an English 
friend suggested that the American consul should treat the 
whole ship's company to champagne. The Americans, 
however, contented themselves with being happy, and in 
sending a telegram of hearty congratulation to the man who 
has borne himself so modestly through the long campaign. 



248 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

On landing in Smyrna the good news was confirmed. 
Some of the English clergymen remarked, " Of course, 
McKinley is the enemy of England, for he is a Protection- 
ist. But though our trade may suffer, the result is good 
for our investments ! " Near the quay we entered tram- 
cars and rode along the shore to the railway station. We 
saw great strings of loaded camels tied together, the long 
line led by a Turk on a donkey. We had a special train 
at the station, from which we made our forty-mile run to 
Ephesus, stopping but once. In the compartment which we 
occupied I was asked to read from the Acts of the Apostles 
the account of St. Paul's experiences in Ephesus, which I 
did, with some comments on the victory in America which 
was uppermost in all minds. The Apostle's work was 
thought to be injurious to the silver business of Demetrius 
and his fellow craftsmen, and they raised a tremendous 
uproar, fearing a falling market in the silver shrines made 
in honor of the great Diana. This little incident in our 
car led to the rumor which we heard at the close of the 
day that the Americans had all gathered at the ruined tem- 
ple of Diana and there celebrated both the first and the last 
defeat of the silver party ! 

The region near Smyrna has many spots of fertility. 
The hills are beautiful, but the people at our only halting- 
place were the worst-looking set of beggars that we have 
yet seen. Here some of the party heard for the first time 
the word "bakshish." At Ephesus we were provided 
with horses or donkeys for a two hours' ride over the dusty 
plain on which stood ancient Ephesus. We saw broken 
tombs, among them the so-called sepulchre of St. Luke, 
the fragments of the ancient sheep-gate, a traditional bap- 
tismal font used by St. John, extensive ruins of the old 
theatre, where the silversmiths' mob called out for two 
hours, " Great is Diana of the Ephesians ! " the immense 
foundations of a Roman custom-house, a few large frag- 
ments of Diana's temple, and the remains of a Roman 
aqueduct. It was a wide area of desolation, over which 
the poorest of quadrupeds painfully carried us. 



CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 249 

Last evening we sailed away from Smyrna, passed by 
"Scio's rocky isle," and later saw very plainly the Convent 
of St. John upon the Isle of Patmos. The Book of Revela- 
tion became popular reading among the passengers, and I 
meditated on the great world-kingdom of evil on which 
the exiled seer looked out, and whose destruction he pre- 
dicted. In reading the seventeenth chapter of the Apoc- 
alypse many of us thought of Constantinople, seated upon 
her seven hills, like the city of the prophet's vision. The 
Turkish capital, like the polluted metropolis that appeared 
to John, also " sitteth upon many waters," " is arrayed in 
purple and scarlet," and is decked with gold and precious 
stones and pearls, having in her hand a golden cup full of 
abominations. The scarlet-colored beast with ten horns, 
which appeared in the vision, is not a bad symbol of the 
wicked capital by the Bosporus. We are told that the ten 
horns are ten kings who give their power and authority unto 
the beast, — a striking picture of the European govern- 
ments who still hold their shields over the Turkish monster. 
" The woman whom thou sawest is the great city which 
reigneth over the kings of the earth." " These shall war 
against the Lamb, and the Lamb shall overcome them. 
For He is the Lord of lords and King of kings." 

One of the striking things about the Turkish despotism 
is the fascination which it has exercised over many who in 
their hearts can have no real sympathy with it. No other 
government has been so skilful and persistent in hood- 
winking foreign ambassadors and in deceiving very many 
influential visitors. The attention, flattery, feasting, the 
gifts and falsehoods furnished with cunning art, have misled 
a multitude. But the present ambassadors have now all 
been undeceived, and they unanimously brand the official 
statements of the Turk as abominable falsehoods, which are 
no more to be believed than are his promises of reform. 
Even our minister, Mr. Terrell, fully realizes what Sir 
Philip Currie, the English ambassador, has still longer 
known, — the utter untrustworthiness and systematic, cruel 



250 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

hypocrisy of the Sultan's government. When forced about 
two years ago to sign one of the reforms requiring that a 
Christian governor be appointed in provinces where the 
Christians were in a majority, the Sultan proceeded imme- 
diately to authorize the massacres which were designed to 
put Christians in a minority. It shows how quick some 
people are to call black white and white black to remember 
that this wholesale slaughtering of an innocent population, 
these murders, tortures, and outrages have in certain quar- 
ters been received with stolid indifference or concealed ap- 
proval, while these apologists for the Turk have wept bitter 
editorial or official tears over the killing of a handful of 
Turks by revolutionary Armenians. They condone abom- 
inable massacres which have such accompaniments that Lord 
Rosebery declared himself unable to read the official ac- 
counts of them. But if one Armenian, driven to despera- 
tion, maddened by the sufferings of his wife and children, 
and seeing only death before him, dares lift one finger in 
the assertion of his manhood, the devil's advocates are hot 
with indignation. 

It is sometimes said that the Sultan is a very liberal- 
minded monarch, in that he appoints Christians to high 
offices ; but the ambassadors know that these Christian 
officials have no responsibility and no authority, and are 
kept in ignorance of the designs of the government. I 
asked a gentleman of high repute, long a resident in Con- 
stantinople, why the Sultan made these appointments. He 
replied, "Just to throw dust in the eyes of gullible Eng- 
lishmen and Americans." It is sometimes said that the 
Armenians are persecuted, not because they are Christians, 
but because they are Armenians, or, in other words, that 
there is nothing religious about this persecution. This is 
not true. There is a religious as well as a political element 
in this diabolism. When the Moslem fanatics struck down 
their victims in the recent massacre, they were continually 
shouting the word " Infidel \ " and one reason why the Sultan 
and his cruel servants have no compunction about slaugh- 



CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 25 I 

tering these defenceless men and women is because they 
feel in their hearts that Christians are dogs, whom they are 
authorized, under certain circumstances, to exterminate. 
It is undeniable that in these Armenian massacres life was 
frequently offered on condition that the intended victim 
would pronounce the Mohammedan formula. Some apos- 
tatized ; thousands declined, preferring to join the noble 
army of martyrs. More than a score of Protestant pastors 
were among these heroes, worthy to take rank with Poly- 
carp. I know of one case where a Christian pastor was 
again and again offered his life on the usual condition. 
Again and again he declined, saying, " I have preached 
my Master twenty years, and I cannot deny Him." Fi- 
nally, he was told that no more time would be given him. 
He opened his coat and, saying, '* Strike ! " received his 
death-wound. 

One reason why the non-interference of the Christian 
powers in all this barbarism is unpardonable is this, — that 
torture is continually being practised upon Armenians in 
Turkish prisons. I know the case of two young men who 
have been tortured a fortnight to induce them to sign a 
lying statement implicating Christian missionaries in revolu- 
tionary schemes. One of these Christian youths, a young 
man of great vigor, has been reduced almost to a skeleton 
by his sufferings. If finally the desired statement is signed, 
the Turkish government will give it to the world, and some 
newspapers will profess to believe it. Turkish prisons are 
often shocking holes. I conversed with a young Armenian 
woman who was thrown into a cell because of a mistake 
which a stupid official had made in her travelling passport. 
There were fifty women in one hole, with scarcely room 
for them to lie down. One of them was ninety-five years 
of age, and several of them had been tortured. 

The present dangers to which American citizens and 
their property are exposed in Turkey, the outrages already 
committed upon them, and the failure of the Sultan to give 
redress, demand of our government a far more vigorous 



252 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

policy. Why not utilize the fleet now in the harbor of 
Smyrna for some good purpose ? Force and fear are the 
only means of influence to which the Sultan is accessible. 
If our government would only insist that an American man- 
of-war should go up the Dardanelles, it would be permitted 
to go, and our citizens and their property would be pro- 
tected, and redress would be forthcoming. 

But these are rather serious thoughts that were suggested 
by a passage in the Book of Revelation. Sunday was a 
quiet and beautiful day on shipboard. We looked out over 
a " sea of glass mingled with fire," and, thinking of John's 
great vision, I doubted not the final victory of the kingdom 
of light over the powers of darkness. An English clergy- 
man conducted service in the morning, and the Reverend 
Dr. Murphy of Philadelphia preached an able and lucid 
sermon in the evening. In the afternoon I accepted an 
invitation to give an address on the " World's Parliament 
of Religions." Early Monday morning we caught sight of 
the Holy Land. At nine o'clock we were anchored off 
Jaffa, and the sea was so smooth that we had no difficulty 
in landing. Jaffa has greatly increased in population since 
I saw it in 1874. The picturesque life which we found in 
the streets was far more Oriental than anything in Constan- 
tinople or Smyrna. A special train, drawn by a Baldwin 
engine, took us up to Jerusalem, fifty-four miles. I know 
of no other railroad ride that is so interesting, bringing be- 
fore us memories of Jonah, Peter, Samson, Joshua, Napo- 
leon. We passed through Lydda with its palm-trees and 
Ramleh with its towers and minarets. We saw orange 
groves, vineyards, olive orchards, pomegranate trees, cactus 
hedges, hundreds of camels and donkeys, thousands of 
goats, sheep, and cattle. We crossed the Plain of Sharon, 
and climbed the hills of Judgea, over twenty-six hun- 
dred feet. We saw the terraced ridges on the Judoean hill- 
sides where once vineyards had flourished. With emotions 
which can neither be described nor concealed, we gained 
our first view of poor, discrowned Jerusalem. Passing by 



CONSTANTINOPLE, SMYRNA, AND EPHESUS. 253 

the Jaffa Gate, we came to Howard's Hotel, outside the 
walls. After washing away the dust, La Signora and I 
entered the Holy City, climbed the old wall by the Zion 
Gate, and saw the golden light of the western sun shining 
in full splendor on the Mount of Olives. 



CHAPTER XX. 

IN THE HOLY CITY. 

jT^UR hotel here, like the hotel at Jaffa, we found finely 
^-^ decorated with flags in honor of Chevalier Howard's 
recent marriage to an English lady who came with us on 
the " Midnight Sun." It has been our fortune to see a good 
many decorations in our recent journeyings. Paris was 
still gay on account of the Czar's visit ; Rome was brilliant 
over the marriage of the Prince of Naples at Constanti- 
nople ; our ship was dressed with bunting for the wedding, 
November second, of Mr. Perrowne, son of the Bishop of 
Worcester, who is a business partner of Dr. Lunn ; and on 
arriving at Jaffa we were taken to Howard's Hotel, bright 
with the flags of all nations. But nothing can make a 
Christian's visit to the Holy Land and the Holy City an 
experience of unmixed joy. Sacred and tragic memories 
are numerous and oppressive. He sees too much suffering, 
too much degrading poverty, and too many evidences that 
the earthly Jerusalem is about as far from the heavenly as 
is any city on the planet. 

On looking from my window I began to appreciate some 
of the changes which the city has undergone since I saw it 
last. Further examination made the changes seem almost 
a transformation. Within the walls the streets are just as 
narrow, dirty, and noisy as ever, and more crowded. The 
population has doubled, and the Jewish population more 
than doubled. Of the sixty thousand persons who now 
dwell in the city, forty thousand are supposed to be Israel- 
ites, and they own three-fourths of Jerusalem. They have 
even taken possession of a large part of Christian Street. 



IN THE HOLY CITY. 255 

Outside the city, near the Jaffa road, are the fine buildings 
which Sir Moses Montefiore erected for the Jews. But 
these are only a small part of the many important struc- 
tures which now cover the whole western and northern 
environs of the city. The Russians and French have built 
very extensively, and their hospices for the accommodation 
of pilgrims are flanked by churches, hospitals, schools, and 
private residences. In the region where the various con- 
sulates are found, one seems to be in a modern city. Not 
far from the Damascus road are the house of the English 
Bishop and the new English church. 

I have sometimes regretted that Presbyterians and Con- 
gregationalists have withdrawn from all missionary work in 
Jerusalem, leaving the field to the English church. That 
church is doing good service through its medical mission 
and in other ways ; but in my judgment nothing is quite so 
good in the Turkish Empire as the American spirit, with its 
courage and its emancipating power. With American Puri- 
tan Christianity goes the American college, and out of it 
springs up Pauline preaching. With all courtesy I must 
confess, with many other travellers, that I have not been 
edified by the "foolishness of preaching " as I have heard 
it in the Anglican church outside of England. It is said 
that the fine English church in Constantinople was com- 
pleted and was about to be consecrated on the arrival of 
the bishop, when it was suddenly discovered that the pulpit 
had been omitted ! I know that to the English church- 
man the service is everything ; but many of us think, now 
that it is usually given in an unnatural '' holy tone " which 
fails to produce anything but feelings of drowsiness, that it 
too is often a weariness to the flesh. 

Near the garden of Gethsemane, on the east side of the 
city, rises the green-domed Russian church ; and the sum- 
mit of the Mount of Olives is now defaced, as many think, 
by a lofty Russian bell-tower, which is plainly visible in the 
Jordan valley. We left the hotel one morning with four 
others, accompanied by Gabriel, our excellent Greek drago- 



256 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

man. Along the dusty street which leads to the Jaffa Gate 
is a great variety of shops. British, European, native, and 
Jewish money-changers, sitting behind their little tables, 
continually called our attention to what they could do for 
us. One must be on his guard in Jerusalem, where so 
many currencies are handled. Almost all moneys are taken, 
and I have had the coins of six different nations — English, 
American, Greek, French, Italian, and Turkish — given me 
as change in one small transaction. We enter the rather 
imposing gate, and stand within the walled city. To the 
right of us is the massive tower of Hippicus, often called 
David's Tower, which is really one of the strong forts be- 
longing to the old Jewish wall, which was spared by Titus 
in the destruction of the city, with the proud purpose to 
show after generations what mighty fortifications the Roman 
arms could storm. I am glad that Jerusalem is still entirely 
surrounded by a wall. Although this was erected by the 
Turks as late as the first part of the sixteenth century, and 
does not enclose the whole of the ancient city, it gives 
Jerusalem an antique and rather important appearance. 

We are on our way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
The streets are full of donkeys, some of them white, and 
many of them carrying great loads of grain, fruit, wood, and 
straw. Many an ugly and stately camel, sometimes so 
burdened as to fill up the street, lumbers by. A few weeks 
ago he may have left the gates of flowery Damascus ; a few 
weeks hence he may be entering the streets of Cairo the 
Magnificent. The camel is the symbol of the Orient, as is 
the locomotive of the Occident. In these Jerusalem streets 
the water-carriers, bearing on their shoulders great hairy 
water-skins, are frequent. These skins are not leather bags, 
but the undressed hides of animals retaining the shape of 
the live goat or pig, and are most disgusting-looking recep- 
tacles. No words can describe the squalor and general 
repulsiveness of much of the life that here thrusts itself 
before our eyes. There are moments when one feels that 
the humanity about him, ragged, unwashed, barefooted, 



IN THE HOLY CITY. 257 

blind, lame, must be more abject than anything which met 
the eyes of Jesus. In this he probably is mistaken. But 
people get so near to each other in Jerusalem ! The meat- 
shop pushes its fly-covered wares almost into your face. 
The Moslem market is most repulsive to an American buyer. 
In Christian Street things are better, and one must not 
think that all of Jerusalem is disgusting, though nearly all 
inside the walls is loathsomely picturesque. I am afraid 
that I cannot make my readers feel how unlike anything 
with which they are familiar all this life really is, with men 
and animals crowding against each other, with merchants 
squatting in their tiny shops and buyers chaffering over 
their purchases, while a stream of donkeys, some of them 
bestridden by black-legged and red-shppered Bedouins from 
Jericho, winds its way through the midst of all this dirt and 
business. 

In the neighborhood of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre 
the wares offered are largely ecclesiastical, — rosaries, cruci- 
fixes, bunches of candles, and shells from the Red Sea, 
carved in Bethlehem and covered with scenes from sacred 
history. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre goes back to 
the days of the Empress Helena, mother of Constantine. 
It often has been destroyed and rebuilt, and now is a com- 
plicated monstrosity of architecture, not without beauty here 
and there. It shelters nearly all the wranglings of Christen- 
dom. The tradition that this is the real sepulchre, and thus 
the true site of the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus 
Christ, dates from the fourth century ; but the gap between 
the fourth century and the first is a long one. 

I have lost every shred of confidence in the sacred places 
which this building conveniently encloses. I remember 
that during my former visit I was told that when the ancient 
northern wall was discovered it would very likely be found 
that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was outside of it. 
Jesus was crucified without the gate, and buried in a tomb 
near by. In the Russian Hospice, quite near to the present 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the visitor is now shown 

17 



258 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

some considerable fragments of great antiquity, credited by 
many as belonging to the eagerly sought ancient wall. But 
Dr. Bliss assures us that this cannot be so. He has exam- 
ined the old walls of the city, Crusaders', Byzantine, Roman, 
and Jewish, and in no case were they less than nine feet in 
thickness. The masonry shown in the Russian Hospice is 
perhaps four feet in diameter, and may be a part of Con- 
stantine's Basihca in which the so-called Holy Sepulchre 
was originally enshrined. After visiting near the Damascus 
Gate what is called the New Calvary, above the so-called 
Grotto of Jeremiah, I have come to feel that many proba- 
bilities combine to support the theory that this was the real 
site of the Crucifixion. Here is a rocky knoll, perhaps 
thirty feet high, having some resemblance to a skull, which 
manifestly has not changed its appearance, for that is due 
to the natural surface of the rock. It is outside of the 
walls and close to the northern highway. We read in 
the narrative of John : " Now in the place where He was 
crucified there was a garden ; and in the garden a new 
sepulchre, wherein was never man yet laid. There laid 
they Jesus therefore because of the Jews' preparation day ; 
for the sepulchre was nigh at hand." Now there comes 
before us the strange fact that in the side of this " New 
Calvary " has been discovered an ancient rock-cut tomb, 
which is pronounced by scholars to be Jewish and older 
than the destruction of Jerusalem. In this tomb was found 
an alabaster slab, — one indication, among others, that it was 
a grave prepared for a rich man, like Joseph of Arimathea. 
It is well known that General Gordon became thoroughly 
convinced that this was the tomb in which Christ conquered 
the power of death, and his conviction is shared by a con- 
stantly growing number of Bible-reading visitors. I was 
glad to learn that this important site had been conditionally 
purchased by a number of English gentlemen, in order to 
secure it from desecration and superstition. A servant 
unlocks the door and you stand in a large rock-hewn room, 
the antechamber, on the right of which are three empty 



IN THE HOLY CITY. 259 

" loculi," or places for bodies. Of these three places one 
is unfinished, one is for a woman, and the third and largest, 
nearest the farther wall, is evidently for a man. The rock 
has been hollowed out at the head to make the grave 
longer ; and this third place, where it is supposed the body 
of Jesus was laid, could be seen by the disciple who looked 
in through the aperture from which the stone had been 
rolled away. It may be that no demonstration of the 
genuineness of this Holy Sepulchre is possible. Very 
likely it is best that we should not know with certainty. 
Place-worship is unchristian, and is contrary to that spir- 
itual worship which Jesus announced to the Samaritan 
woman at Jacob's well. But I confess that it was with a 
feeling of deepest awe that I entered this ancient Jewish 
tomb, on which a very old Christian symbol was discovered 
when it was first opened. I cannot help feeling that this 
newly discovered sepulchre, about which reverence but not 
superstition is likely to gather, may be a symbol of the bet- 
ter Christianity of the future. Surely the old Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre, like the Church of the Nativity at 
Bethlehem, is a mighty object-lesson of a divided and cor- 
rupted Christendom. Language is feeble in describing the 
ecclesiastical falsehoods, the indecent and impious frauds, 
and the diabolical contentions of so-called Christians in the 
so-called Holy Places. The Greeks, Latins, Armenians, 
and Copts have each a share, more or less profitable, in the 
consecrated falsities of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 
But the Greeks outdo all the rest in blasphemy by the frau- 
dulent annual " miracle " of the Holy Fire. Ignorant, 
pious pilgrims, with unlighted torches in hand, crowd 
around the sepulchre, each one eager to be the first to light 
his torch from the miraculous flame, symbol of the Holy 
Ghost, which appears suddenly at an aperture and which 
they are taught has come down from heaven. How the 
atheist-priest inside, who has struck his lucifer match and 
ignited some easily combustible substance, must smile over 
his impious fraud ! Scenes of fanatic violence have some- 



26o A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

times occurred in connection with the Holy Fire, and Turk- 
ish soldiers are always on hand to preserve the peace. An 
English friend who was once present at this frightful specta- 
cle, said to the Turkish Pasha, " There is no Christianity in 
that. If there were no other Christianity than that in the 
world, I 'd be a Moslem." And how often at many of the 
Holy Places in Jerusalem one feels like exclaiming, " He 
is not here ; He is risen." 

It is no little work to see all that the Greeks, Latins, 
Armenians, and Copts have to show you in the present 
church. It makes one's heart sick to wander through this 
shrine of hoary deceptions. Here is the Stone of Anoint- 
ing ; there is the stone on which the angel sat before the 
tomb ; here is the stone which marks the centre of the 
earth ; there is the place where the Empress Helena found 
the true cross ; yonder is the crack in the rock made by 
the earthquake. Through this crevice, which was at the 
foot of the cross, the Saviour's blood ran down to the tomb 
of Adam below and raised that old sinner to life ! We see 
impressions in the rock made by the feet of Jesus. We are 
shown the tomb of Melchizedek and the place of Abraham's 
contemplated sacrifice of Isaac, and the tree where the ram 
was caught ! The keys of the church are held by Moslems, 
and it can hardly be expected that, beholding the so-called 
Christians perpetually quarrelling, they will soon be attracted 
by the superior excellence of the Christian Gospel. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is of course the ter- 
mination of the Via Dolorosa, the traditional way of grief 
over which Jesus walked from Pilate's house to Calvary. It 
is marked by several '' stations," at which are said to have 
occurred such events as the meeting with St. Veronica, who 
wiped the fallen Saviour's brow with her handkerchief; the 
scourging ; the meeting with His mother ; the meeting with 
Simon the Cyrenian, and so on. The present name. Via 
Dolorosa, does not belong to the entire course of this 
journey. Other streets continue it, and five of the stations 
are in the church itself. Some of the stations have been 



IN THE HOLY CITY. 26 1 

changed in the course of ages, and now we know of a cer- 
tainty that the pavement over which Jesus did walk is from 
thirty to seventy feet below the present street. 

We first stopped at the Russian Hospice, which contains 
some recently discovered fragments of an old wall, prob- 
ably a part of the original basilica of Constantine. Our 
second halting-place was at the Church of the Sisters of 
Zion, by the Ecce Homo Arch, where Pilate is said to have 
shown Jesus to the people, exclaiming, '■' Behold the 
man ! " Here a sweet-faced sister led us down to the un- 
covered foundation of the Roman arch, and showed us 
pieces of Roman mosaic, many feet beneath the present 
level of the city, Jerusalem has been many times captured 
and destroyed, and ruin has been piled on ruin ; but in a 
few places we are permitted to see bits of the ancient 
Herodian city. While in this convent we were taken to the 
lofty roof, and remained for ten minutes in the dazzling and 
almost unbearable blaze of the sun, in order to gain a wide 
view of Jerusalem. The temple enclosure, with its mosques, 
the domes of synagogues on Mount Zion, the two domes of 
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, many of the buildings 
beyond the walls, and the gray slopes of the Mount of 
Olives, covered with Jewish tombs, made a part of the 
panorama spread out before us. We saw quite a number 
of the children who are instructed in this convent, and felt 
grateful that they were rescued from the dirt and degrada- 
tion of the common life. These girls are taught, besides 
the ordinary school lessons, to care for their persons, to 
sew, to carve wood, to press and arrange flowers, and to 
make rosaries out of olive stones. Some of the party tried 
to repay the courtesies given us by the purchase of interest- 
ing relics. 

Leaving our companions here, La Signora and I walked on 
eastward to St. Stephen's Gate, and then down into the val- 
ley of the Kedron near to the Virgin's tomb, where for a 
week I had pitched my encampment twenty-two years ago. 
Then, almost overcome by the heat, we climbed up the 



262 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Steep bank to the gate again, and, sheltered by the stone 
walls and the shadows of the narrow streets, made our way 
home. The interior of the hotel is a noisy bazaar, where 
you are solicited to buy a hundred interesting objects, 
many of which would be really valuable memorials of the 
land. But, as we are twenty thousand miles from home, 
by the way which we intend to follow, our temptations to 
become purchasers are greatly reduced. In the afternoon 
a few of us went with our dragoman to what is doubtless 
the chief sight in Jerusalem, the sacred square on Mount 
Moriah, where now stand the mosques of Omar and El 
Aksa. 

Sixty years ago no Christians were permitted to enter. 
The daggers of black Moslem dervishes gleamed in the 
eyes of all on-lookers. Next to Mecca, Jerusalem is the 
most sacred city to the Mohammedan world, for they claim 
Abraham for their father, and Jesus as one of their proph- 
ets. Of late years Christians have been permitted to 
enter the sacred enclosure. The Jews do not wish to enter, 
for they fear the possibility of walking over the site of the 
Holy of Holies. The cost of each person's admission to 
the Haram Esh-Sherif, or noble sanctuary, is twelve 
piastres, about fifty cents. We now stand in one of the 
most venerable and interesting places in all the world. On 
this summit of Moriah occurred, in all probabiUty, Abra- 
ham's trial of faith ; here David built an altar, here Solomon 
constructed his temple, here was raised the second and in- 
ferior temple, and here, finally, arose the magnificent struc- 
ture of King Herod, *' a mount of alabaster, topped v/ith 
golden spires," standing on a great platform, surrounded by 
majestic colonnades and enclosing the various courts of the 
Gentiles, of the women, and of the Israelites. This was the 
temple to which the infant Jesus was carried, in one of 
whose cloisters the boy Jesus conferred with the doctors of 
the law, and wherein the Prophet of Nazareth again and 
again expounded his teaching. This was the temple whose 
destruction Jesus predicted, and whose devastation was 



IN THE HOLY CITY. 263 

completed in the year 70, when it was burned, partly by the 
hands of the Jews and partly by the Romans. Every ves- 
tige of it has been removed from the broad area on the 
summit of Moriah. Some of the massive foundation-stones 
are still visible on the western side at the Jews' wailing- 
place. 

We first made our way to the so-called Mosque of Omar, 
usually styled the Dome of the Rock, standing on an irregu- 
lar platform ten feet higher than the general area. Having 
been furnished with slippers to keep our profane feet from 
touching the sacred matting, we entered the octagonal build- 
ing, one of the masterpieces of early Arabian architecture. 
Externally the mosque is covered with beautiful porcelain tiles 
or with marble, and passages from the Koran form its frieze. 
Within you find yourself in a structure divided into three 
concentric parts, supported by piers and columns, mostly of 
marble of different styles and colors. The interior is dark ; 
and yet the whole effect, on account of the richness of the 
materials and the beauty of the mosaics, is splendid and 
striking. Through the variously painted windows comes a 
dim reUgious light. The Crusaders, of course, converted 
the mosque into a church when they captured Jerusalem, 
after having piled the floor on which we stand with thou- 
sands of slain Moslems. But when the Christian monarchy 
of Jerusalem was destroyed, the church again became a 
mosque, after having been purified with rosewater, which 
five camels brought hither from Damascus. 

In the centre, beneath the dome, is the holy rock, sur- 
rounded by a wrought-iron screen, the only relic left of the 
Crusaders. This rock, more than fifty feet long and forty- 
three feet wide, rises fully six feet above the pavement of 
the present mosque. It is one of the strangest and most 
impressive of spectacles to see this primitive ledge, 
deemed holy by three rehgions, thrusting its broad sur- 
face upward, beneath the magnificent dome. In all prob- 
ability this was the threshing-floor of Araunah the Jebusite, 
which David bought for fifty shekels of silver. Here 



264 ^ WORLD-PILGRIAIAGE. 

Stood the great altar of sacrifice, and some traces have 
been found in the rock of an ancient channel through 
which the blood may have been carried off to the cis- 
terns below. The Moslems have many traditions gather- 
ing about this sacred place. When we descended to the 
great cavern beneath it, we were shown the impression 
of Mohammed's head on the ceiling, and also the hole 
in the centre of it through which he ascended to heaven. 
In the middle of the floor in this cavern is a round stone, 
and when the guide knocked upon it the hollow sound 
indicated a receptacle beneath. The well under this stone 
is called the " Well of Souls." No wonder that place- 
worship has become such a part of the creed of Islam, 
since Mohammed declared that one prayer offered at the 
Dome of the Rock is better than a thousand offered else- 
where. The Moslems have associated many absurdities of 
tradition with this place, but no multiplication of absurdities 
can greatly lessen its historic impressiveness. 

Leaving our slippers at the gates, we walked southward to 
El Aksa, formerly a church built by the Emperor Justinian, 
Here we saw a line of perhaps one hundred Mohammedans 
going through their prayers with military precision, all with 
their faces turned toward Mecca. Then some of us de- 
scended into the so-called Solomon's stables, the great sub- 
structures extending beneath the Church of Justinian, and 
probably a Byzantine work. Then we walked along the 
east wall of the sacred enclosure to the Golden Gate, which 
has been blocked up with stone by the Arabs, owing to a 
superstition that some day a Christian king will enter through 
it and take the Holy City out of their hands. Below this 
eastern wall, in the valley of Jehoshaphat, it is supposed that 
the last judgment will occur. From a bit of column pro- 
truding over the wall a hair will be stretched to the Mount of 
Olives, and over this all souls must walk. Good angels will 
keep the righteous from destruction as they attempt the 
perilous feat. 

Leaving the sacred enclosure, La Signora and I visited 



IN THE HOLY CITY. 265 

the Church of St. Anne, near St. Stephen's Gate, and ob- 
served the excavations now gomg on, which show that the 
pool of Bethesda in all probability has been discovered 
under a church of the Crusaders' period, nearly seventy 
feet below the present level of the street. The Scripture 
account of the miracle, taken from the fifth chapter of John, 
in twenty different languages, is framed and glazed at the 
entrance to these excavations. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

JERICHO, JERUSALEM, AND BETHLEHEM. 

A BOUT forty of our party made the journey to Jericho. 
■^^- The procession, directed by Chevaher Howard, and 
accompanied by many Arab dragomans and several Bedouin 
sheiks, rolled or trotted around the northern wall of the 
city, down into the Kedron valley, and then up and around 
the southern shoulder of the Mount of Olives. The car- 
riage road, which has been built but a few years, makes the 
trip quite comfortable for those who do not enjoy riding 
astride a horse. Nearly all who have come hither on horse- 
back during this day of excessive heat, regret not having 
chosen the easier way of travel. As we ascended the Mount 
of Olives, the fine panoramic view of Jerusalem first showed 
to my companions how "beautiful for situation " is the Holy 
City. 

On my first visit to this region I made a long detour by 
Bethlehem, Mar Saba, the Dead Sea, and Jericho, in order 
that my first view of Jerusalem might be that from the 
Hosanna Road on the Mount of Olives, over which Jesus 
came with the triumphal procession. Those who follow 
Dean Stanley's advice and make this circuit will have an 
interesting journey all the way, and at the end of it one 
of those supreme visions which never can be forgotten. 

Our first halt was at Bethany, a wretched Arab village 
bearing the name of Lazarus. It is a little town of hovels 
and of sore-eyed children crying pitifully for " bakshish." 
We visited the traditional places, the tomb of Lazarus, the 
house of Mary and Martha, and the house of Simon. It 
is hard to reahze that here once stood the Jewish village 



JERICHO, JERUSALEM, AND BETHLEHEM. 267 

which was to Jesus Christ one of the best-loved spots on 
earth. It was hither tliat He brought His disciples on that 
day when He was taken up from their sight into heaven. 
How strange that churches of the Ascension should be 
built on the summit of the Mount of Olives when the 
Scripture account teaches so plainly that "He led them 
out as far as Bethany" ! It is a -descent of nearly four 
thousand feet which we made before reaching the Jericho 
plain. Our road led through the wilderness of Judsea. No 
words can picture its desolation. Only a few little patches 
of cultivated soil appeared in the whole journey. We went 
down between hills of rocky and dusty barrenness. Quite 
a number of Bedouins, perched oa their little donkeys, met 
us. They were taking their wares up to the Jerusalem 
market. Glimpses of the Dead Sea, a dazzling sheen in 
the morning light, were flashed into our eyes. Beyond rose 
the mountains of Moab, and among them the peak from 
which Moses viewed the Promised Land. 

Often did I hear the question, " How could the Israelites 
have been satisfied with such a desert as Judaea?" But in 
the spring-time, after the winter rains, these dry hills and 
gorges are covered with a carpet of flowers. The Jordan 
valley, which lay just before the Israelites, when they entered 
the Promised Land, was a broad, verdant, and palm-covered 
plain. In rocky Judah and Benjamin grew the hardy vine, 
and north of Benjamin lay fruitful Ephraim, and then came 
the broad plain of Esdraelon, and beyond the fertile slopes 
of Galilee. Even to-day along the sea-coast the plain of 
Sharon yields two crops every year. Remove the curse of 
Turkish government and after a generation Palestine might 
again blossom as the rose. That government presents its 
fairest side in Syria. Here it is only robbery ; elsewhere 
it is extortion and murder combined. 

During our journey Chevalier Howard and the sheiks, 
splendidly mounted on Arab steeds, afforded us many dis- 
plays of fine horsemanship. Leaving the road and gallop- 
ing up a rocky hillside, they would turn their horses suddenly 



268 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

or stop them in full charge, in sham battle with each other, 
making some superb Schreyer pictures against a rocky wall 
or, higher up, against the blue sky. We halted for an hour 
at the Inn of the Good Samaritan, where luncheon was 
provided for us, while the animals were fed and rested. 
Here Chevalier Howard and his wife left us and returned to 
Jerusalem, while we kept on our downward way under the 
new guidance of Demetrius. The scenery grew grander 
and wilder. At one place we halted and were conducted 
to the top of a hill, from which we could look many hundreds 
of feet down into the gorge of the Brook Cherith. There, 
in those rocky depths, we saw the tiny Greek monastery of 
St. George, a Uttle green line of verdure running beside it. 
This is the traditional place of the prophet Elijah's retire- 
ment, in the days when he was fed by ravens. At two or 
three points in our descent we left the carriages and walked 
down the rocky and unfinished road. About half-past one 
we reached the plain of Jericho, and in less than half an 
hour we arrived at our pleasant encampment, where we 
are to remain in quietness until to-morrow's sun. 

The Jericho of Joshua's time lies to the north of us. 
The Jericho of our Saviour's time is near us, buried under 
the sand. It was here that blind Bartimeus at the gates 
heard from the crowd the glad cry, '' Jesus of Nazareth 
passeth by ! " The merciful Prophet was on His way to 
the cross, and we have followed to-day the path up which 
He walked. His face set toward Jerusalem. Sitting here in 
the moonlight, my thoughts were not quietly resting on the 
scene which stretches about us. I could not help remember- 
ing that there, beyond that gray western wall of mountains, 
is the city which He loved, now discrowned and humiliated, 
no longer the " joy of the whole earth." In place of the 
old temple rises " the marble dome of Omar's tent," and, 
instead of peace and righteousness, the powers of discord 
and evil rage and rule on the hallowed heights. What 
memories and hopes and questions the Holy City everlast- 
ingly evokes ! Will her glory ever come back? 



JERICHO, JERUSALEM, AND BETHLEHEM. 269 

" Fair shines the moon, Jerusalem, 

Upon the hills that wore 
Thy glory once, their diadem 

Ere Judah's reign was o'er; 
The stars on hallowed Olivet 

And over Zion burn. 
But when shall rise thy splendor set, 

Thy majesty return ? " 

But the voices about me were becoming silent; the 
lights were going out. I soon lay down, as did Abraham 
and Isaac and Jacob, beneath the fragile covering of a tent, 
and dreaming once more their dreams, trustfully surrendered 
all problems to sleep and to God's own future. 

We had a comfortable night, although I was wakened 
by the cries of jackals, one of which came very close 
to our tent. The next morning, immediately after breakfast- 
ing at tables spread beneath a bower of vines and jasmines, 
we drove and rode to the Dead Sea. It was a rough, dusty, 
irregular, but interesting journey of two hours. We saw two 
Greek convents that recently have been erected on this 
desolate plain. The Russian Tower, on the Mount of Olives, 
ten or twelve miles away, would not let us " forget thee, O 
Jerusalem " ! 

At this rainless season of the year the "slime pits," into 
which horses sometimes sink, have been dried up. When 
we reached the shores of the Dead Sea, our party was divided 
into two sections, and most of the men and some of the 
women bathed in the salt, heavy waters. I found this a 
pleasant and refreshing experience, although it is easier to 
float than to swim. But what a strange and oppressive 
place the shore of the Dead Sea is ! The waters are as 
beautiful as those of Lake Lucerne, but nothing lives in 
them, and no human habitation is found on their banks. 
One thinks of Sodom and Gomorrah buried beneath the 
brackish lake at the southeastern side of it, and here in this 
deep vale thirteen hundred feet below the surface of the 
Mediterranean, breathing the dusty air of what seems like a 
close summer day, one is not eager to linger. 



2/0 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

An hour's drive brought us to the fords of the Jordan, the 
traditional site of our Saviour's baptism, where the Greek 
pilgrims throng by thousands immediately after Easter to 
bathe in the waters, to drink from the sacred stream, and to 
fill their jars from it, so that friends in far-away Russia may 
share in part their privileges. For many centuries Christian 
pilgrims have come hither, and once these shores were 
paved with marble. At the present day ropes are stretched 
along the bank during the time of pilgrimage, for the secur- 
ity of those who enter the swift stream, and a wooden cross 
is set up in the river. Only a few of our party bathed in 
the Jordan, partly because the waters are muddy, the shores 
rough, and the undercurrent sometimes perilous, an Ameri- 
can gentleman having lost his life here two years ago. Very 
many had brought with them bottles to be filled from the 
Jordan, and used at christening services in England and 
America. It was pleasant to linger on the shaded bank and 
muse over what had been. The secondary history which 
has followed the great scriptural events associated with the 
Jordan is interesting, and a knowledge of precise localities 
is not essential. John the Baptist may have stood where we 
were then gathered. At any rate, on the banks of this same 
stream, and not far away, he carried on that mighty ministry 
which prepared for the Messiah's diviner w-ork. And who 
could help remembering that, ascending from these waters 
of the Jordan, the Saviour of mankind went to His temptation 
in that rocky Judsean wilderness, to which our eyes fre- 
quently turned? 

Toward evening, when the shadows of the Judaean hills 
were stretching farther and farther across the plain, many of 
us mounted donkeys for a twenty-minute ride to Elisha's 
Fountain, near which I once pitched my tent. The road to 
it was past beautiful gardens, full of oleanders, poplars, bana- 
nas, and cypresses, and through clumps of thorn-trees, the 
spina christi, from which the crown of thorns is supposed 
to have been made. We also picked some apples of Sodom, 
and, after arriving at the spring, climbed a hill, probably 



JERICHO, JERUSALEM, AND BETHLEHEM. 2/1 

the d<^bris of old Jericho, from which we had a grand view. 
This fountain, which Elisha is said to have healed of its 
bitterness by casting in salt, yields an abundance of sweet 
waters to-day, and makes nearly all the verdure which is 
visible on the wide sandy plain. In the evening we visited 
the Bedouin village, saw a family gathered about a bright 
fire, while two women, taking hold of ihe one handle, were 
grinding at a mill, made of two circular stones, as women 
in this land have been doing for three thousand years. 

Breaking camp early the next morning, we began the 
long six hours' climb up to Jerusalem. Many who had 
found Jordan a " hard road to travel " found this harder 
still. The heat was excessive, it was dusty, and those who 
drove were compelled to leave the carriages at several 
steep and stony places. At one o'clock, however, we were 
back in Howard's Hotel to receive the greetings and hear 
the experiences of those members of our party who had not 
gone down to Jericho. At the hotel I met for the first 
time Professor White of Moody's Institute, who is on his 
way to India, sent out by the International Young Men's 
Christian Association. He has been aiding the American 
mission in Egypt, and about the first of January will begin 
work in Calcutta. 

In the afternoon we visited the traditional tomb of David 
on Mount Zion, the traditional scene of the last supper, the 
traditional house of Caiaphas, and the Protestant cemetery. 
Our guide then led us into the Tyropoeon valley to the 
arch which bears the name of the American scholar, Rob- 
inson, the real father of the scientific exploration of the 
Holy Land, and then we attended one of the most striking 
religious services in the world. At the Jews' wailing-place 
we saw gathered men, women, and children from various 
lands, in a great variety of costumes, and heard their 
prayerful laments over the desolation of Zion, the destruc- 
tion of the temple, and the sorrows of their race, the most 
influential, the most illustrious, and the most persecuted 
people in human history. No one who has seen and heard 



2/2 



A WORLD-PILGRIiMAGE. 



it ever can forget this service of woe. It lasts from three 
o'clock to about sunset. When we arrived, perhaps a 
hundred Jews were present, mostly men. There were a 
few women, however, and about a dozen Jewish children. 
Israelites from many lands who themselves or their an- 
cestors have suffered from persecution, Rabbis with fur- 
encircled caps and long silk robes, each with a Hebrew 
prayer-book in his hand, here, on every Friday afternoon, 
by the huge foundation stones of the old temple, utter their 
prolonged wail over the desolations of Zion. By this wall, 
about one hundred and fifty feet in length and more than 
fifty feet in height, the Jews have for many centuries been 
found. We saw them kissing the stones and bowing toward 
them reverently. They laid their faces against them and 
thrust their hands into the crevices. They remained to- 
gether for hours, and toward evening this pathetic and tragic 
litany is chanted. The leader exclaims, " For the palace 
that lies desolate," and the people respond, "We sit in sol- 
itude and mourn." The leader adds, " For the palace 
that is destroyed," and the people cry out, " We sit in soli- 
tude and mourn." And so it continues : " For our majesty 
that is departed, for our great men who lie dead, for the 
precious stones that are burned, for the priests who have 
stumbled, for our kings who have despised Him." " We 
sit in solitude and mourn." " We pray Thee have mercy 
on Zion, gather the children of Jerusalem, haste, haste, 
Redeemer of Zion, speak to the heart of Jerusalem ! May 
beauty and majesty surround Zion ! Ah, turn Thyself mer- 
cifully to Jerusalem ! May the Kingdom soon return to 
Zion ! Comfort those who m.ourn over Jerusalem. May 
peace and joy abide with Zion, and the Branch of Jesse 
spring up at Jerusalem ! " Is there any sorrow hke unto 
Israel's sorrow? 

On another day we walked down through the deep vale 

of Gehinnom, where children once were sacrificed to 

Moloch, and where offal was burned, furnishing- thus the 

'name of ''Gehenna," which was applied to the infernal 



JERICHO, JERUSALEM, AND BETHLEHEM. 273 

regions. Reaching the lowest point of the valley, opposite 
the village of Siloam, La Signora and I began to climb the 
steep hillside, at the top of which we hoped to discover the 
encampment of Dr. Bliss, the head of the Palestine explora- 
tion fund, who had asked us to take luncheon with him. 
The heat was fearful, and soon we lost our way. Calling 
a stout Arab down from the top of an olive-tree, I repeated 
the word " Bliss " several times, and with my hands de- 
scribed the form of a tent. He was not long in compre- 
hending my meaning, and soon started off and up to show 
us the way. We were thoroughly convinced before we 
reached the encampment that " climbing up Zion's hill " 
is no joke. La Signora insisted, on meeting Dr. Bliss, that 
she had ascended more than seven thousand feet, but the 
luncheon and the company compensated for all our efforts. 
Here we met for the first time the Reverend Edwin S. Wal- 
lace, United States consul at Jerusalem. I asked him at the 
table if he had not lost his faith in Christianity during his 
stay in Jerusalem. He quietly repUed : " No, I am a Pres- 
byterian ! " Later we had the pleasure of dining with him 
in his own home, and of driving with him and his charming 
wife to the birthplace of John the Baptist, Ain Karim, a 
beautiful village three miles from the city, where we saw 
the Eastern women gathered at the fountain chatting with 
one another, filling their water-jars and presenting a picture 
of Oriental life which we shall not soon forget. 

Among the discoveries of Dr. Bliss is a broad marble 
staircase leading down toward the Pool of Siloam. He be- 
lieves it to be of the Herodian age, and that down these 
very steps our Saviour may have walked. Here is a Santa 
Scala more venerable and genuine than that which the 
Empress Helena conveyed to Rome. 

After leaving Dr. Bliss's encampment we went down to 

some of his excavations, and I remained long enough to get a 

touch of malarial fever, which I hope quinine and the climate 

of Egypt soon will remove. In the evening at the hotel 

Dr. Bliss delighted our party with an account of his success- 

18 



274 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

ful work in discovering the southern wall of the old city. 
The next morning we gave to visiting the new site of Cal- 
vary, near the Damascus road and above the Grotto of 
Jeremiah. Then we rode to the so-called Tombs of the Kings, 
perhaps a half-mile from the Damascus Gate. Through a 
rock-cut staircase we descended to these immense chambers 
cut out of the solid stone, which remind one in their extent 
of the royal tombs of Egypt. 

That evening after dinner our party at the hotel was 
favored with a lecture on the Jews by Dr. Wheeler, the 
head of the British Medical Jewish mission. He has opened 
a hospital for the free treatment of poor patients, and by his 
love, sympathy, and kindness has won a warm place in many 
Jewish hearts. It is pleasant to speak in cordial commenda- 
tion of Dr. Wheeler's work, which is genuine and useful, and 
quite in contrast to the Ben Oliel mission among the Israel- 
ites, a mission which in all my inquiries I could find no well- 
informed person in Jerusalem to indorse. Dr. Wheeler has 
made a special study of modern Judaism and all its various 
sects in Jerusalem. He described in detail their religious 
ideas, their marriage customs, their hopes, their bitter 
memories, their animosities, their devotion to the letter of 
the law, and all that peculiar persistence of spirit which long 
has characterized these children of Jacob. Their numbers 
in Jerusalem are constantly growing, and it sometimes seems 
probable that the old prediction of their restoration to the 
Holy Land may, in a few generations, be practically fulfilled. 

One interesting event of this day I must not neglect to 
notice ; namely, our call after luncheon on the venerable 
Armenian Patriarch. A number of us, mostly Americans, 
were received by him with stately courtesy. Many years ago 
he lived in our country, and was now interested in Mr. 
McKinley's election. He was quite reticent in regard to 
European political matters, though his heart evidently is 
heavy over the sorrows of his people. Turkish sweets and 
coffee were served to us in the reception-room, which is filled 
with portraits of many of the European sovereigns. The 



JERICHO, JERUSALEM, AND BETHLEHEM. 275 

Patriarch is deemed a personage of great holiness, and his 
hand is reverently kissed, sometimes by princes. There are 
only three hundred Armenian famihes in Jerusalem, but the 
church and convent are said to be possessors of great 
property. 

There was a fall of rain during the night, so that our drive 
to Bethlehem the next morning was over a dustless road, on 
either side of which the trees and fields looked green. No- 
where else in the Holy Land have we seen such evidences of 
careful cultivation. There are many hills and hilltops which 
are only masses of bare rock. But, on the other hand, we 
saw around a Christian village near Bethlehem the largest 
and most flourishing olive orchards we have found in Pales- 
tine. We passed a Greek convent, but did not care to 
enter it. We were shown the impression which the prophet 
Elijah made in the rock as he lay down upon it for his 
night's rest, but cared nothing for this ecclesiastical miracle. 
At Rachel's tomb, however, we came upon a memorial of 
genuine human sorrow, and felt again the pathos of old 
Jacob's profound and loving grief. When he was about to 
die in Egypt, one hundred and forty-seven years old, the 
patriarch recalled to Joseph the scene of the death of 
Joseph's mother. " When I came from Padan, Rachel died 
by me in the land of Canaan in the way, when there was 
but a little way to come unto Ephrath : and I buried her 
there in the way of Ephrath : the same is Beth-lehem." 

" What mouldering pile near Ephrath stands alone 
With dome-shaped top and base of mossy stone? 
Rude is the chamber where her bones repose; 
Yet here, 't is said, fair Rachel's pillar rose. 
Ah ! sad her fate in Nature's pangs to die ; 
To sorrowing friends I hear her parting sigh ; 
I see her husband's woe, his streaming tear. 
His last fond kiss before he laid her here, 
His anguished brow, where smiles no more would be, 
For ne'er was wife, poor Rachel I loved like thee." 

Before reaching Bethlehem we made a detour of a few 
miles to visit the three immense pools which bear the name 



2/6 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

of King Solomon. All but one of them are now dry, but 
the Sultan will not permit a European philanthropist to 
repair them and freely restore them to the people of Jeru- 
salem. When I saw the pools before, they were filled with 
water. It was here that we camped, or tried to. The rains 
descended so violently that we fled for refuge to the stone - 
vaulted chamber of a Turkish castle hard by. A company 
of soldiers occupied it then. We could find none on this visit. 
The Turkish soldiers we have seen in Jerusalem are ragged 
and half shod, and present a most deplorable appearance, 
though they fitly represent the bankrupt empire which is 
temporarily supported by their bayonets. 

Bethlehem is largely a Christian town, and presents a few 
evidences of prosperity. At a narrow turning in one of the 
crooked streets, some of our carriages were for several min- 
utes blocked. Arriving at the great market or courtyard by 
the Church of the Nativity, we were clamorously beset by the 
venders of crosses, rosaries, and relics, and by the sellers of 
wares less ecclesiastical. One of these tradesmen, who 
claimed to know me, produced a pass to the Columbian 
Exposition containing his own picture and signed by Mr. 
Higinbotham, and secured most of the patronage of our 
party. He belonged to the Algerine village in the Midway 
Plaisance. He thinks of America as El Dorado, and 
hopefully awaits the next World's Fair in our country. 

In the Church of the Nativity, probably the oldest Chris- 
tian edifice now standing in the world, we descended into the 
grotto which is revered as the birthplace of Jesus. This 
great natural cave is supposed to be the stable for animals 
which was connected with the inn at Bethlehem in which 
there was " no room " for Joseph and Mary. The tradition 
on which this faith is founded is very old, but all that we 
can say is that the location is not an improbable one. The 
natural rock in the cave has been overlaid with marble. 
The ceiling, however, is bare. The cavern is now a chapel, 
about forty feet long, twelve feet wide, and ten feet high, 
and is sacred to all the Oriental churches. It is lighted by 



JERICHO, JERUSALEM, AND BETHLEHEM. 2JJ 

thirty-two lamps, and in a recess to the east underneath the 
altar you behold a silver star in the pavement bearing a 
Latin inscription which says that " Here, of the Virgin Mary, 
Jesus Christ was born." Whether you credit the inscription 
or not, you may be sure that you are standing in a place 
that has been sacred since the days of Constantine, the first 
Christian emperor. But alas that by the very cradle of the 
Prince of Peace one should see so many evidences of the 
angry divisions of Christendom ! Of the fifteen lamps which 
burn immediately about the silver star in the pavement, four 
belong to the Latins, five to the Armenians, and six to the 
Greeks, and in the church which is above the traditional 
birthplace of Christ, the quarrels among the monks of the 
different communions have been so fierce and bloody that 
Turkish soldiers always are on guard. Indeed, in the Chapel 
of the Manger, we found an armed Moslem with his musket 
standing in the gloom. 

Tradition has multiplied the sacred places in the Bethle- 
hem cave. We were shown the Chapel of the Innocents, 
where several children are said to have been slain by Herod ; 
the altar of the Adoration of the Magi ; the marble manger, 
in which Christ was laid ; and the Milk Grotto where the 
holy family sought concealment. We escaped the realm of 
tradition for that of history when we entered the Chapel 
of St. Jerome, where that great father of the Latin church 
undoubtedly lived, and where he translated the Scriptures 
from the Hebrew and Greek into the Latin, thus giving the 
Roman Catholic world the revered version called the 
Vulgate. 

Bethlehem is built on the narrow ridge of a long rocky 
hill, and after leaving the cavern we stood upon the edge 
of this hill to look over the vales and fields where Ruth 
" gleaned amid the aUen corn," where the ruddy shepherd 
lad David guarded the sheep from the wild beasts which 
crept down from the rocky fastnesses, and where the Syrian 
shepherds watched their flocks during that night on the 
wonders of which the Christian heart loves to meditate. 



2/8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

" The shepherds on the lawn, 
Or e'er the point of dawn, 

Sat simply chatting in a rustic row; 
Full little thought they then, 
That the mighty Pan 

Was kindly come to live with them below ; 
Perhaps their loves, or else their sheep, 
Was all that did their silly thoughts so busy keep." 

The song which came to them on that great night is now 
the marching song of those who lead the van in the progress 
of the world, — 

" Peace on earth, good-will toward men." 



CHAPTER XXII. 

ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO, THE PYRAMIDS. 

A LEXANDRIA, founded by the great Macedonian, which 
"^ ^ as the meeting-place of three continents Napoleon 
thought might become the central city of the world, is not 
likely to be relatively more important than it is at present. 
Caesar entered this city in triumph ; and thus, unlike every 
other great town, it can claim connection with the three 
greatest military commanders of all time. Ours was one of 
the more than two thousand steamers that yearly enter this 
port. The " Midnight Sun " drew alongside the pier, and we 
had an uninteresting debarkation, quite different from that 
which I enjoyed in 1874, when the passengers were landed 
in boats amid wild gesticulations and wilder shrieks from 
black-skinned and red-capped Egyptians, who can put 
more of pandemonium into a half- hour's disembarkation 
than we Americans can produce in a riot. We left with 
much regret our familiar quarters and pleasant promenades 
on the " Midnight Sun," the good ship with which one of the 
happiest months of our lives had been associated. The 
parting with the stewards was accompanied by the usual 
number of sighs and shillings which make such scenes 
memorable. 

On shore we found about thirty carriages, each marked 
" Midnight Sun," waiting to receive us. Our luggage was 
taken in charge, pushed through the custom-house without 
our effort or attention, and met us two hours later at the 
station from which we were to take the train to Cairo. 
Our drive through the city showed us how cosmopolitan this 
town of two hundred thousand people now is. The signs in 
Greek, Arabic, French, English, and Italian ; the mixture of 



28o A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Western and Eastern costumes ; the visible connection of the 
present Hfe with the much greater past, which one feels in 
the presence of the so-called Pompey's Pillar that stood in 
the great Temple of Serapis, — all this gave considerable 
interest to our drive. But I confess that my mind dwelt 
quite as much on the past as the present. Alexandria 
occupies a great place in the history of mankind, or at 
least it once did. This is the city of the Ptolemies, and of 
Antony and Cleopatra. This is the city which afforded 
refuge and protection to the Jews ; and here the Old Testa- 
ment was translated into Greek, the famous Septuagint 
version. This is the city of Euclid the geometer and of 
Athanasius the theologian. Here lived the Neo-Platonic 
philosophers, Vv^ho made the city for a time the centre of 
Greek learning. Some of the most powerful influences 
shaping the development of Christian thought came from 
Alexandria. Then, what terrible scenes of persecution have 
been enacted here, — what dark chapters in the tragedy of 
hate and bigotry have been written by this harbor on the 
edge of the Delta ! Other names than those I have men- 
tioned — Clement, Origen, Arius, Archimedes, Strabo, 
Hypatia, and the more terrible name of Omar — are linked 
with Alexandria. The Pharos, the tallest hghthouse ever 
erected by man, has been replaced by smaller structures. 
The light of learning no longer streams from this its ancient 
fountain. The little city of Port Said, at the entrance of 
the Suez Canal, and the splendid attractions of Cairo lessen 
the future importance of this metropolis of the Delta. But 
this century has witnessed in Alexandria its rise from a 
miserable village to its present proportions. 

That wise despot, Mohammed Ali, the founder of modern 
Egypt, dug for her the Mahmudiyeh Canal, which brought 
once more to the decaying seaport the waters and com- 
merce of the bounteous Nile. Driving along this canal, 
we saw hundreds of dahabiyehs loaded with cotton and 
drawn by men, not by mules, and recalled the fact that 
the American war, reviving the Egyptian cotton-trade, gave 



ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO, THE PYRAMIDS. 28 1 

to this land and to its chief port a sudden access of pros- 
perity. Many were the exclamations of delight and wonder 
over the magnificent groves of date-palms which we saw 
loaded with the drooping clusters of yellow fruit. Some of 
these clusters were sheathed in canvas bags, to protect the 
fruit from the birds ; and one of our party thought that the 
palm-trees were producing Armour's hams. We were 
driven to a Pasha's garden, and were permitted to pick 
great bunches of red and yellow blossoms ; and some of us 
gained our first impressions of the richness of the vegetation 
created by the waters of the Nile. 

At the station our luggage was weighed and registered 
amid an indescribable din. Fifty eager passengers were 
pressing toward the counter and window, yelling in what- 
ever language they could command. A dozen stout, black, 
barefooted, blue-robed porters, each anxious to have some 
traveller's luggage registered first of all, screamed and bel- 
lowed enough Arabic syllables to make a new Koran. As 
each piece was passed and paid for, the traveller found 
himself besieged with vociferous demands for fees from 
expected and unexpected sources. In Egypt all luggage, 
except what is taken into the railway carriage, is weighed 
and paid for. The scenes which result from this, when the 
passengers are numerous, make a confusion and hubbub 
worse than any on the Midway Plaisance. On board the 
train we were soon speeding by express toward Cairo, a 
journey of one hundred and thirty miles. Crossing the 
Mahmudiyeh Canal and skirting Lake Mareotis, which is 
eight feet below the level of the sea, we were almost at 
once in the midst of the peculiar scenery of Egypt. How 
picturesque were the tall sails of the barges appearing here 
and there, and the strings of camels, and the figures of 
men, women, and children, silhouetted against the evening 
sky ! The mud villages, each with a mosque towering above 
its square low roofs, were unattractive enough ; but the 
long, green, wide fields, stretching on and on, appeared to 
reek with fertility. 



282 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Fresh from Palestine, most of our party felt that the chil- 
dren of Israel made a poor exchange when they migrated 
from the valley of the Nile to their promised Canaan ; and 
some went so far as to affirm that had it not been for their 
forty years' wandering in the desert, which was the death 
of most of them, the Israelites would have been unwilling 
to enter. I replied to these cavillers by reminding them 
that they had seen Palestine at the worst possible season, 
and after it had been cursed by hundreds of years of Turk- 
ish rule. Furthermore, they should remember that they 
had not seen the plain of Esdraelon and the fertile hills of 
Ephraim. Still further, Egypt is a land of monotony. The 
rain seldom falls and the fields are "watered by the foot," 
— that is, by breaking down the mud embankment of the 
irrigating canals. Canaan was a land of springs and foun- 
tains, and was watered by the rains of heaven. Moreover, 
it had every variety of scenery and of climate, and thus was 
a fitting habitation of the people through whom was given 
to the world a Bible adapted to all nations. Besides, it 
was better to be free amid the rocky hills of Judaea than 
slaves on the fertile plains of the Nile. 

The darkness comes down suddenly in Egypt, and in an 
hour and a half we could see but little. We passed through 
the city of Damanhur, the capital of a province where 
Napoleon was nearly captured by the Mamelukes ; through 
Tanta, a larger city with a great mosque and the shrine of 
the most famous of Egyptian saints, Ahmed the Bedouin, a 
shrine which in August draws together upward of five hun- 
dred thousand people from Mohammedan Africa. By 
eight o'clock we were in Cairo, and, amid much noise, we 
were distributed in three hotels in different parts of the city. 
Here, at the quiet D'Angleterre, La Signora and I have had 
as much of comfort as can be found in any hostelry on any 
continent. The next morning I did not go with my friends 
in their drives to the Citadel and the Citadel Mosque, from 
which La Signora had her first view of the pyramids, nor 
did I visit the Mosque of Sultan Hassan, nor the tombs of 



ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO, THE PYRAMIDS. 283 

the Caliphs and Mamelukes. These I had seen before and 
could see later. Besides, I had some literary work to do 
and some remnants of Jerusalem malaria to kill. I walked, 
however, about the streets long enough to realize how Cairo 
has expanded and improved since I saw it last. The Ezbe- 
kiah Gardens ; the equestrian statue of the great soldier 
Ibrahim Pasha, who was on the point of carrying the Egyp- 
tian arms to the gates of Constantinople ; the wide, clean 
streets ; the new hotels and other buildings ; the fine German 
school and church, with its beautiful palm-trees, just 
opposite the D'Angleterre, — all these speak of improvement 
and wealth and the Western life and civilization which have 
come in amain. 

The former Orientalism, however, is here in its more 
attractive phases, and the blending of the two is such that, 
with the Egyptian climate superadded, Cairo attracts and 
holds many thousands of European and American tourists 
every year. But why should I be speaking of this modern 
life, when right here are memorials of that stupendous 
ancient civilization so fascinating to the scholar and so im- 
pressive to us all? To-day I have visited the Ghizeh 
Museum and the pyramids, and I shall ask my readers to 
look with my eyes at these wonders of a past which now 
has been explored and excavated. Driving through the 
newer part of Cairo and crossing the Kasr-en-Nil Bridge, 
more than twelve hundred feet in length, a splendid work 
of French construction, we, met a stream of camels and 
donkeys pouring into the city. Following the road to 
Ghizeh, which is now shaded by large lebbek-trees, which 
look like colossal acacias, we came to the palace, which a 
former Khedive, the able and extravagant Ismail, built for 
his harem at an expense of over twenty million dollars. It 
is now the extremely valuable museum of Egyptian antiqui- 
ties which owes so much to the eminent Egyptologists, 
Mariette Bey and Maspero. Not all museums are interest- 
ing, and I think most of us walk with a tired feeling 
through the Egyptian museums in London and Paris. But 



284 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

one has a different feeling who here in modern Egypt lays 
his hand on memorials which have withstood the wastings 
of time for five thousand years. Think of it, O children 
of yesterday ! Think of it, ye who treasure some furniture 
brought over in the Mayflower or some musket carried by 
a Continental soldier ! We are introduced at once to the 
oldest relics, which antedate even the builders of the pyra- 
mids. If the first dynasty of Egyptian kings reaches back 
about thirty-eight hundred years before Christ, and the 
early empire closes with the eleventh dynasty, about 2400 
B. c, then one may get an approximate idea of the antiq- 
uity of the panels, statues, tables, steles, to which he is 
immediately introduced. 

At once our eyes look upon a granite statue of a priest, 
of the time of the second dynasty, and fragments of a tomb, 
probably fifty centuries old, on which are represented on a 
kind of hardened clay, with delicate skill, six geese as life- 
like as if drawn and colored yesterday. The perpetual 
surprise to those who were expecting to see things remark- 
able only for their antiquity is the constant discovery of 
beauty, simple, exquisite, amazing. Among the most 
noteworthy treasures from the early empire I will men- 
tion only the famous wooden statue from Sakkara, of an 
inspector of workmen, executed with life-like realism, and 
the statue of King Chephren, who built the second 
pyramid. 

But every one must turn with special interest to the 
coffins and mummies of the kings, especially those of 
Seti I., and of his son Ramses II., — Ramses the Great, the 
Sesostris of the Greeks ; probably the Pharaoh of the 
oppression, as Merenptah, his successor, was the Pharaoh 
of the exodus. Ramses II. was the greatest of Egyptian 
conquerors, extending his campaign southward to Dongola, 
eastward to the Tigris, and northward to the Lebanon 
mountains. On the rocky walls of the Dog River, near 
Beirut, I saw an inscription carved by his order, and on the 
left bank of the Nile at Thebes I looked many years ago at 



ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO, THE PYRAMIDS. 2S5 

his fallen and broken granite statue, originally the mightiest 
monolith ever erected to the honor of a king. Ramses was 
one of the greatest of Egyptian builders, and his figure on 
the walls of a temple at Thebes looms up like a colossal god 
amid the soldiers who surround his chariot. Thinking of 
him as builder and conqueror and sovereign of the world, 
the words spoken to Moses, " I am Pharaoh," gain a new 
significance. For the leader of Israel to turn his back on 
the earthly omnipotence of the Egyptian monarch and to 
commit his trust to the invisible Jehovah is perhaps the 
sublimest act of faith on record. The mummy of Ramses 
II. may not seem beautiful, but this shrivelled head of 
skin and bone is not lacking in majesty, and within it was 
perhaps the lordliest brain, excepting that of Moses, which 
old Egypt ever knew. 

Among the treasures which I chiefly remember in this 
museum are the jewels of Oneen Aah-Potep, found at 
Thebes in 1869, among which were golden necklaces, 
winged serpents, antelopes pursued by lions, and a golden 
breastplate inlaid with precious stones. I cannot lead you 
through the innumerable rooms, each filled with almost price- 
less treasures, reaching down into Greek and Roman times, 
and even later, but the whole life of ancient Egypt is pro- 
fusely illustrated. There are rooms given up to utensils 
and clothing, and cabinets of mirrors, musical instruments, 
and children's toys, and there are innumerable scarabs, or 
stone beetles, scarabs of granite and carnelian and opales- 
cent glass ; scarabs with cartouches of kings from the 
fourth dynasty down. There are specimens of ancient 
plants, fruits, seeds, flowers. And, oh, the mummies ! 
There are literally " mummies to burn," and coffins, some of 
them of wonderful workmanship, decorated with delicate 
or luxuriant art, and with colors and gilding as bright as 
those of yesterday. 

A visit to the pyramids must always be regarded as one 
of the greatest experiences in the traveller's life. The first 
sight of them is like the first sight of the ocean or of Mont 



286 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Blanc or of St. Peter's in Rome. It seems almost credible, 
as Emerson has sung, that Nature has 

" Adopted them into her race, 
And granted them an equal date 
With Andes and with Ararat." 

They were venerable when old Herodotus, the father of 
history, described them. Moses looked upon them with 
wonder, and in his day they were cased with pohshed 
granite, every stone covered with inscriptions. Joseph, 
when captive and viceroy in Egypt, looked upon the pyra- 
mids as the mightiest symbols of the power that overawed 
the world. Abraham saw them, and they were venerable in 
his day. The Arabs believe that they were erected before 
the flood to preserve the records of antediluvian ages. 
Built on a plateau on the edge of the desert, they are really 
the suburban mausoleums of the kings of Memphis. The 
Libyan sands have been striving in vain to cover them, and 
they have nearly submerged the colossal Sphinx, — which 
seems to have been a mighty sentinel, perhaps one of two 
sentinels, set to guard the mighty tombs. 

The drive to the great pyramids is over a beautiful shaded 
ten-mile road, at the end of which is quite a little village, 
with a hotel for the entertainment of travellers. The Bedou- 
ins, who have the hereditary guardianship of these kingly 
sepulchres, usually succeed in drawing a large share of the 
traveller's attention away from the pyramids to themselves. 
When, as in our case, a party of one hundred arrives, their 
excitement, clamor, and persistent greed almost make a 
man lose from his appreciation the magnitude and venerable- 
ness of the colossal piles. The arrangements made by our 
conductors were as good as possible, and on arriving at the 
pyramid of Cheops tickets were given to those wishing to 
ascend it or to enter it. These were taken in charge by 
strong-handed, sure-footed Arabs, and led, carried, dragged, 
pushed up the gigantic and jagged staircase, for such is the 
exterior, to the summit, — higher than any cathedral in 
Europe, excepting Cologne and Strasbourg. I had climbed 



ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO, THE PYRAMIDS. 28/ 

to the top once, and explored the interior, and decided not 
to undergo the fatigue of the chrnb or the dust and heat of 
the long and suffocating passages. Three-fourths of the 
party went to the top, and perhaps one-fourth to the central 
tomb, in which no mummy of the king ever was found. 
Perhaps the royal oppressor was afraid to be buried in the 
mausoleum which had cost the lives of so many thousands of 
his people. Those of us who neither ascended nor entered 
the pyramid were left to the tender mercies of the Bedouins, 
— those Arabs who were not engaged with the climbing 
members of our party. La Signora and I ascended as far 
as the entrance to the heart of the pyramid, where, looking 
upward and downward, you get a good impression of the 
colossal pile, the stone in which would build a wall eight 
feet high and two feet thick around England. Then we 
began to walk in the broiling sun towards the Sphinx, and 
the Temple of the Sphinx, in which luncheon was to be 
served. ■ Donkeys, antiquities, and services were pressed 
upon us, all of which were declined. We soon got into 
good-natured debates with the witty and indefatigable Arabs 
who swarmed about us. 

Be it known to all men that one man, and he an Ameri- 
can, has left a name which is more frequently spoken at 
the pyramids than the name of either Cheops, Herodotus, 
or Napoleon. Of course I refer to our humorous fellow- 
countryman Mark Twain. The Arab who claimed to be 
the runner who went up and down the two pyramids in 
eight minutes for Mr. Clemens's amusement kept near us a 
long while, offering to repeat his exploit for a gradually 
lessening amount. In vain I endeavored to persuade him 
that I myself was Mark Twain. At first he was almost con- 
vinced ; but La Signora's smile broke the spell. I made 
the experiment of talking only German to the howling 
Arabs ; but soon several were found who were perfectly 
willing to converse in that language, or in French or 
Italian. They were momentarily staggered by my inquiring 
for some one who could speak Choctaw. 



288 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

The next effort was to make us hire a donkey or a camel. 
We were ahxiost persuaded to change our plan when a 
donkey named " McKinley " was offered ; later we were 
tempted by the words "' Joseph Chamberlain,' — he very 
good donkey." When La Signorawas startled by a sudden 
bray, she turned and heard the announcement, " That is 
Lord Salisbury." Some of us feel that his Lordship's Guild- 
hall speech had more of the asinine than the leonine ring 
to it. At length we came to the Sphinx, in too light a frame 
of mind to be overawed. A little farther on was the granite 
Temple of the Sphinx, not only colossal, but dry and shaded, 
where the purveyors of the three hotels — the " D'Angle- 
terre," " Du Nil," and "New" — were providing for our 
midday meal. Here, after a while, our friends all rallied, 
each with some adventure to relate of his experiences with 
the stalwart and bellowing Arabs. 

After luncheon an effort was made to photograph the en- 
tire party so as to bring in the great Sphinx and the two 
larger pyramids. A dozen camels and forty donkeys were 
immediately urged upon us by our Arab friends. For a 
shilling you could have your picture taken on the deck of 
the " ship of the desert," or mounted on the back of 
" Yankee Doodle," " INIary Anderson," " Dixie," or " Grover 
Cleveland." The scene of confusion, prolonged for half an 
hour, occasioned by the headlong charge of camels and 
asses into our peaceful party, revived the terrors of the 
French battle with the Mamelukes near the same sandy 
spots. Those of us who resisted the charge and who de- 
clined to mount to a pictorial immortality displayed a forti- 
tude and patience worthy of the Old Guard at Waterloo. 
After the photographer had first baked and then captured 
us, our procession wound its way back beneath the com- 
fortable shadow of the Great Pyramid. Here La Signora 
and I entered our carriage, and, followed by begging Bed- 
ouins to the last, reached the shaded road that leads back 
to Cairo. 

My strongest impression of the great pyramids is not 



ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO, THE PYRAMIDS. 289 

their antiquity or bigness, but their cruel uselessness. I 
know that they testify in a clumsy way to faith in a future 
hfe. But, more than that, they seem to me the symbols of 
a despotism as inhuman and merciless as ever caused man- 
kind to suffer. According to Herodotus, one hundred 
thousand men were employed in forced labor, either twenty 
or thirty years, in the gigantic task of building the pyramid 
of Cheops. Such a concentration of power as was directed 
to the construction of this royal tomb was afterward bent to 
the oppression of the Israelites ; and the redemption of 
that people from bondage was a divine thunderbolt smiting 
abominable tyranny. 

The pyramids remain to show us how vast and mighty 
that despotism was. But hberty also remains, widening and 
continuing from age to age and from land to land. The 
fiends of ancient wrong are being exorcised, and the God 
who loves righteousness and works deliverance is exalted in 
the eyes of enlightened nations. The contrast between the 
century of Cheops and the century in which we live is well 
exemplified by the contrast between the pyramids, hoary 
monuments of ancient error and wrong, and the Suez Canal, 
— an almost equally stupendous work, — that watery high- 
way of commerce which brings remote nations closer to- 
gether, and through which go the great ships, servants of 
that Gospel which found its sublime prophecy in Israel's 
deliverance from Egypt. 



19 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

THE NILE AND MEMPHIS. 

T F any spectacle of ancient Egypt is able to hold its own 
beside the great pyramids, it is the Serapeum, or tombs 
of the sacred bulls, in the suburbs of Memphis. November 
twentieth will be memorable to Mr. Lunn's Anglo-American 
party, because on that day we saw not only the Serapeum, 
but the site of Memphis and the two fallen colossal statues 
of Ramses II. At an early hour, when everything in Cairo 
was bathed in the fresh cool air of the dawn, we left our 
various hotels, and were driven across the great Nile bridge 
to the special steamer, one of Gaze's, on which most of 
the party were to have their first and only voyage on the 
most famous and interesting of all rivers. The shores of 
the Nile near the place of embarkation presented a novel 
and busy scene. Donkeys and camels were receiving on 
their backs great loads of straw, which had been brought 
down the river in freight dahabiyehs. The camel never 
ceases to be a wonder, and he is as much a part of Egypt 
as the pyramids. 

We had a delightful ride up the river, past the green isle 
of Roda, with its orange and lemon trees, its bananas and 
date-palms, an island chiefly famous on account of the 
Nilometer at the south end of it, the square well, and the 
octagonal column built by a caliph early in the eighth cen- 
tury and often restored. Since all the prosperity of Egypt 
depends on the Nile water, the important office of measur- 
ing and reporting its height is intrusted to a sheik, who, 
when the river has risen to its normal height, makes pub- 
lic announcement that the time has come for cutting the 



THE NILE AND MEMPHIS. 29 1 

embankment, by which means the fertiUzing flood is spread 
over the land of Egypt. Formerly the amount of taxes 
was proportioned to the height of the inundation, and it 
used to be common for a rascally sheik to deceive the peo- 
ple through a false metre of his own. For more than three 
thousand years, according to the records, there have been 
general rejoicings and noisy festivals attendant upon the 
announcement, which usually takes place between August 
sixth and nineteenth, that the Nile flood has reached its 
safe and usual height. 

The island of Roda is the traditional spot where Moses 
was found. As our voyage continued over the surface of 
the broad and fertilizing river, my mind was busy with the 
things that had been. Interesting were the palm-covered 
shores ; impressive was the sight of the great pyramids ; cap- 
tivating was the bird-like appearance of the white-winged 
and double-winged boats which sometimes in flocks sailed by 
us. But who could forget the forms which have been borne 
on this river downward to the sea, or southward toward the 
capitals of upper and lower Egypt ? I thought of the Pha- 
raohs, Ptolemies, and Caliphs ; of Cheops and Sesostris, 
Abraham, Joseph, Cambyses, Alexander, Csesar, Cleopatra, 
Athanasius, Omar, Napoleon, Livingstone, Gordon. But the 
river has upborne nothing more fateful to humanity than the 
papyrus boat to which a captive Hebrew mother intrusted 
her first-born son. The fragile ark of reeds in which the 
life of the infant Moses was saved was the ark of the 
world's hope, more precious to the highest interests of our 
race than the granite indestructible monuments by which 
the Egyptian monarchs overawed their own and later gen- 
erations. The little arms raised in helplessness were yet to 
hold the rod of God's wrath over the throne and people of 
the Pharaohs, and they were yet to carry the tables of 
God's law down the red steeps of Mount Sinai. 

The Nile itself is a perpetual theme of thoughtful mus- 
ings. It is one of the five great rivers of the world. Of 
these the Amazon is greatest in volume, the Congo the 



292 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

greatest in length, the Mississippi the greatest in present 
commercial importance, and the Yangtse gives access to 
the most milUons of people. But the Nile surpasses them 
them all in historic significance. It created Egypt, mother 
of the old civilizations. The greatest cities and mountains 
of remote antiquity were upon its shores. For many thou- 
sand years the mystery of its origin was unsolved. It used 
to be thought by the Arabs that the First Cataract was its 
birthplace, a part of it flowing northward and a part south- 
ward. Dean Stanley calls attention to the impression of 
vastness which it makes upon European travellers, familiar 
only with the Thames and the Seine, the Rhine and the 
Tiber. It is surely unique among rivers. For sixteen 
hundred and twenty miles it flows without a tributary. 
The White and the Blue Nile meeting at Khartoum, and 
the Atbara joining it one hundred and eighty miles north 
of that city, make the mighty stream, which, though sufl"er- 
ing continual loss from evaporation as it passes through a 
desert and thirsty land, furnishes, out of its copious and 
majestic flood, all the fertihty which Egypt, a long green 
ribbon of varying width, has ever known. Many are 
familiar with the original or with copies of the Nile god 
of the Vatican, about whose marble form are gathered 
sixteen children, symbolic of the sixteen cubits which in 
ancient times constituted the needful rise in the river. 
The area of cultivated soil is larger to-day, in spite of 
the sandstorms of the Libyan desert, and seven more lit- 
tle children should gather round the recumbent figure in 
the Vatican. No wonder that the mysterious river, coming 
down from an unseen world and giving from its bounty all 
that made life either tolerable or possible, stimulated the 
ancient sense of dependence and of reverence. It was 
the ally and teacher of religion. And more than this, it 
taught science, gave birth to navigation, made land-survey- 
ing a necessity, assisted kings in carrying the granite of the 
quarries by the First Cataract to the mighty temples and 
monuments of Lower Egypt. 



THE NILE AND MEMPHIS. 293 

Without the Nile no forest of obelisks would have arisen 
at Heliopolis, no gigantic sarcophagi of granite would have 
received the sacred bulls at Memphis, and the Great Pyra- 
mid would have lacked that casing of shining porphyry 
which added splendor to its vastness. The Nile, with its 
periodical rise and fall, keeping time with the movements 
of the constellations, perhaps stimulated the study of the 
stars. It certainly fostered the art of engineering, and 
helped to impress upon the minds of the people the sa- 
credness of property, for every year the obliterated land- 
marks had to be re-established. How strange to float upon 
a river which grows larger as you ascend it ! While twenty- 
five feet measures the difference between high and low 
water in Cairo, at Assouan the difference is forty-nine feet. 
The overflow of the bounteous river is now regulated with 
the utmost care, being drawn off into canals and reservoirs 
and distributed in such a way that Egypt does not present, 
in the times of the inundation, as it did formerly, the ap- 
pearance of one vast lake. One further fact should be 
mentioned to indicate the absolute dependence of ancient 
and modern Egypt on the Nile. Too great a rise means 
wide devastation ; too small a rise means the peril of star- 
vation. These physical facts show how the seven years of 
plenty and the seven years of famine were produced in the 
time of Joseph. 

After a leisurely and interesting voyage of about twenty- 
five miles, in the course of which luncheon was served on 
the deck of the steamer, we arrived at Bedrashin on the 
Libyan or western bank of the river, near the site of old 
Memphis. Here occurred one of those scenes which can 
never be described and never be forgotten. A sufficient 
number of donkeys and a superabundance of donkey 
boys had been provided, and they awaited us upon the 
shore. We had a four hours' trip in view. Each of 
our donkeys had upon his forehead a great printed card, 
labelled " Midnight Sun." A large number of villagers 
were on the shore, determined to impress upon us the 



294 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

superior excellence of their own donkeys. The pushing 
and wild yelling on the part of the Arabs called forth 
either remonstrance or screams of laughter from our side. 
It was a long file of animals, tourists, and donkey boys 
that stretched over the plain and wound into the Bedouin 
village of mud huts now occupying the site of Memphis, 
the ancient capital of lower Egypt. A few of the ladies 
of the party were carried in chairs, each upborne by four 
stout Arabs ; but La Signora and I found that " Mary Ander- 
son " and "George Washington" were sufficient for our 
needs. We admired together the emerald green of the fields 
that stretched out under the shade of thousands of palms. 
It was very hard to realize that below us were the frag- 
ments of old Memphis. The mud houses of the wretched 
common people of antiquity have, of course, disappeared. 
But the stone temples and monuments of the kings are so 
numerous and vast that it has taken two thousand years of 
constant plundering to remove them. The alluvial soil 
which the Nile has spread over Egypt varies from thirty- 
three to fifty feet in depth. But besides the Nile deposits 
on the site of Memphis are the debris and relics of what 
was once an enormous and bewildering city. Two statues 
of the great Ramses have been uncovered in this century, 
one of them very recently, which give a faint suggestion of 
the monumental glory of the past. One of these colossi is 
of granite, the other of hard limestone. The cartouche on 
the breast tells us who he was, while on the head of the 
granite statue is the helmet crown of the kings of Upper 
and Lower Egypt. The limestone colossus is nearly forty- 
two feet in height, and Herodotus saw and measured it 
about twenty-four hundred years ago. 

Leaving these fallen and broken memorials, we rode 
for three-quarters of an hour, till we came to the inter- 
esting and extensive tomb of Mera, an important per- 
sonage of the sixth dynasty, who married a king's daughter. 
This tomb, which is literally a spacious and decorated pal- 
ace, was discovered only three years ago by Monsieur de 



THE NILE AND MEMPHIS. 295 

Morgan, the present director of the Museum of Gizeh. 
The scenes depicted by the reUefs in the more than thirty 
chambers and many passages of this tomb show us fishing, 
hunting the hippopotamus, the fattening of geese, the 
making of wine, the storing of fruit, the various handicrafts 
of old Egypt, and scenes which make real the arts and 
activities and many of the ideas of a vanished civilization. 
More extensive still is the well-preserved monument of Ti, 
which we next visited. The sands had completely covered 
this immense mausoleum, in which the chamberlain of one 
of the kings of the fifth dynasty was laid away forty-five 
hundred years ago ; but the interior has been cleared out so 
that modern eyes may look with astonishment upon the 
courts and chambers covered with hieroglyphics and with 
paintings in delicate low relief, and thus gain a really full 
knowledge of the life of ancient Egypt. 

One may read detailed descriptions of such a sepulchre as 
this and learn a multitude of facts, but a half-hour spent in 
this tomb will stamp upon the mind a deep and ineffaceable 
impression. Ti's wife was of royal rank, and was " the palm 
of amiability toward her husband," as the inscription tells 
us, and is represented by his side or standing on his foot. 
He appears before us as a man of more than double the 
usual size. I shall not attempt the impossible feat of de- 
scribing all these pictorial marvels, so spirited, so lifelike, so 
beautiful, and many of them still fresh in color. We look 
at the offering of gifts, the sacrifice of victims, the slaughter- 
ing of oxen, the feeding of cranes and pigeons, the driving 
of cattle through the water of inundation, rams treading the 
seed into the ground, the sowing of wheat, the ploughing of 
the soil, the cooking of meat, the milking of the cow, the 
performing of dancers and musicians, the making of pottery, 
the baking of bread, the rowing of boats, the sailing of ves- 
sels with sails precisely like those of to-day, the reaping, 
the treading out, the storing, and the transport of grain, the 
filling of sacks like those which Joseph's brethren carried 
away, the building and calking of ships, the blowing of 



296 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

glass, the gathering of the papyrus, the writing of sentences, 
the trying of criminals, the bearing of large baskets on the 
heads of thirty-six female figures, the drawing of water, the 
snaring of birds, the hunting of crocodiles and of the river 
horse. It is a remarkable fact that no camels or horses 
appear in these 'bas-reliefs until after the time of the 
foreign invasion of the Hyksos. These pictures are accom- 
panied by inscriptions, many of them amusing. The cap- 
tain of a vessel cries out, " Starboard ! " The donkey boy 
remarks, moralizingly, " People love those who go quickly, 
but strike the lazy." The overseer says to the servants, 
"Ye are like apes," and "If thou couldst see thine own 
conduct ! " A quarrelling sailor cries out, "Thou art pug- 
nacious, but I am so gentle !" The scenes here pictured 
in the hunting of the hippopotamus illustrated a famous 
passage in the twelfth chapter of Job. 

What Brugsch calls " the pictorial history of primitive 
Egypt " has been written out with infinite care in sepulchres 
like this ; every tomb is a picture gallery and a library. 
And what adds a pathetic interest to it all is the fact that 
these decorations were intended to be seen only by the 
eyes of the mummied dead when at last they should awaken 
out of sleep. In one instance Mariette Bey, on opening a 
chamber which had been sealed up for nearly forty centuries, 
found in the sand a footprint made by the last man who had 
stood within it, and who, sealing it up, thought it might 
remain undisturbed until that hour when 

" The world is old, 
And the stars grow cold, 
And the leaves of the judgment book unfold." 

That footprint in the sand outlasted the monarchy of the 
Nile. The snows of nearly four thousand winters had melted 
on the Abyssinian mountains and spread over the fields of 
Egypt the green and gold of more than four thousand har- 
vests, but that footprint in the dark silence of the sepulchre 
remained. Babylon and Persia rose and fell, and Israel 



THE NILE AND MEMPHIS. 297 

went through the age-long development of its national life, 
from the call of Abraham to the tragedy of Golgotha and 
the scattering of the sons of Abraham by war and persecu- 
tion over all the earth ; Greece and Rome ran the full course 
of their history till all their temples were shattered, and the 
modern Christian world had passed through nearly two mil- 
lenniums, before the old sepulchre was entered and human 
eyes discovered how enduring may be human footprints on 
the sands of time. 

Leaving the tomb of Ti, we passed by the famous step 
pyramid of Sakkara, the oldest historical monument of 
Egypt, built of inferior stone, but, with its one hundred and 
ninety-six feet of elevation, maintaining still some dignity. 
And then we came to the house where Mariette Bey had 
his residence during the years when he was carrying on his 
discoveries. His name suggests the great part which France 
has played in solving the mysteries of Egypt. Napoleon 
forced the sphinx to open his hps and yield up some of the 
buried secrets ; Champollion unlocked the hieroglyphics, 
and Mariette Bey set himself to those discoveries which have 
added immensely to our knowledge. France has the feel- 
ing that Egypt belongs to her. Her genius and money dug 
the Suez Canal ; her language is widely spoken in the Nile 
valley, and it is not unnatural that during the British occu- 
pation she is restless and resentful. 

The greatest of all Mariette Bey's discoveries was the 
last and chief interest of our memorable day. I refer, of 
course, to the tombs of the sacred bulls, the most mon- 
strous, if not the greatest, of all Egyptian monuments. The 
worship of Apis, or the sacred bull, is extremely ancient, 
and was reverence offered to the perpetual creating power 
of the Deity. The ancient god of Memphis was Ptah, and 
the bull was his sacred animal. The bull which was wor- 
shipped must have a black hide, with certain distinctive 
marks in white. When this sacred bull died, his body was 
mummied and interred with divine honors in a square 
chamber hewn out of the solid rock. 



298 A IVORLD-PLLGRIMAGE. 

The serapeum which Mariette discovered in 185 1 — his 
soul thrilled with profound astonishment at the discovery — 
is a subterranean gallery hewn for more than three hundred 
feet through the rock, having on both sides of it forty exca- 
vated chambers, twenty-six feet in height, in which were 
the huge sarcophagi, single blocks of black or red granite, 
thirteen feet in length, seven in width and eleven in height, 
each with a weight of sixty-five tons. There are twenty- 
four of these monstrous coffins still remaining ; but long ago 
the mighty lids were raised by thieving Arabs, and the mum- 
mied animals, with all their treasures, were removed. The 
ceremonies attending the burial of a sacred bull sometimes 
cost one hundred thousand dollars ! As our party walked 
through the subterranean passage to look into these cham- 
bers, the burning of magnesium wire threw a strange, bright 
glare over the scene. 

In the long ride back to the boat and on the return voy- 
age down the Nile I had leisure to reflect on what we had 
seen. Two things became clearer than ever to my mind. 
One is this, that the human spirit, without the direction of 
an authoritative revelation from God, is liable to drift off into 
the most grotesque absurdities. Another thought was this, — 
a thought very familiar and very impressive to those who 
have explored Egypt, — namely, that Moses was guided by 
superhuman wisdom in making little or nothing of the doc- 
trine of immortahty in the early teaching of the emanci- 
pated Israelites. Immortality was linked in their memories 
with the grossest superstitions. What they needed, first of 
all, was faith in the one God, and a knowledge and practice 
of individual and national righteousness. 

As we steamed down the Nile in the early evening, the 
large full moon rose above the palm-trees, the mud villages, 
and, as we neared Cairo, the palaces on the eastern, or 
Arabian shore. It was our last opportunity of meeting all 
together our friends of the " Midnight Sun." The next 
day was a day of rest and of shopping or individual sight- 
seeing. Then followed Sunday, when I had the pleasure of 



THE NILE AND MEMPHIS. 299 

preaching at the American Mission, which is doing a great 
work in Egypt. On Monday morning La Signora and I 
went to the station to bid good-by to our fellow-voyagers 
who were to take the train to Alexandria, and thence sail 
on their homeward journey. We shall cherish the memory 
of our pleasant days with so many pleasant friends. Noth- 
ing which Mr. Lunn could do for our comfort was omitted, 
and if he ever sends us word that we are wanted again for 
a voyage on the "Midnight Sun" in his company, we shall 
try to persuade ourselves that it is the call of duty. 

Returning to the Hotel d'Angleterre, we transferred our 
belongings to the neighboring Pension Sima, where our room 
opens out upon a beautiful garden of mandarins, oleanders, 
and oranges, and where at the ringing of our bell either 
Mohammed or Akmed appears with a salaam. The com- 
pany at our well-spread table is English, and mostly military. 

One American whom I had hoped to see in Cairo, Dr. 
Grant Bey, died a few months ago, and is here universally 
mourned. He was an Egyptologist, and will be remem- 
bered as having been present at the Congress of Religions, 
to which he contributed a paper on the " Religious Ideas of 
the Ancient Egyptians." Two other men, who were pres- 
ent at the Parliament, I unexpectedly met at the Sunday 
services in the American Mission. One of them is Chris- 
tophora Jibara, formerly Archimandrite of Damascus. He 
is still very active and earnest in what he deems his chief 
mission, persuading Christians to give up the doctrine of 
the Trinity, which prevents, as it seems to him, their com- 
ing into any union with Mohammedans and Jews. He be- 
lieves that Christ is the Son of God and wrought a gospel 
of redemption. Jibara is a master of several languages, and 
I tried in vain to persuade him to employ his powers of 
speech in preaching a positive gospel, instead of smiting all 
his life at a dogma which has worn out many hammers. 

The other attendant at the Parliament, unexpectedly met 
in Cairo, is the traveller and Chaldean Archbishop, Prince 
Nouri, who has kindly acted as my interpreter in many 



300 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

interesting interviews. He is equally ready in English, 
French, Turkish, Arabic, Persian, and eight other languages. 
He has travelled almost everywhere, and I doubt if there is 
any other man now living who has made the acquaintance 
in their homes of so large a number of distinguished people. 
Among the most influential persons that I have met here are 
Doctors Nimr and Sarruf, editors of an Arabic daily. 

But besides the interest in the people whom I have met, 
there is in Cairo the endless fascination of a procession of 
street pictures. There is the donkey-boy, good-naturedly 
urging the merits of his beast or quietly reposing by the 
animal's side ; there is the sais, or runner, barefooted 
and barelegged, with his embroidered vest and gorgeous 
sash, heralding the approach of some pasha or English 
official ; and then there are the shops and markets where 
bread, nuts, vegetables, fruits, and all sorts of hot dishes 
are sold and eaten ; while above are the latticed windows 
behind which the hidden women are probably gazing on 
this same panorama of Eastern life. We have here equi- 
pages as fine as those of Paris or New York, and the best 
cabs in the world, behind which comes a huge camel loaded 
with branches till he looks like a moving brush-heap. Here 
are the Egyptian police, with their neat gray linen uniforms, 
and the Egyptian street-cleaners, with long blue gowns and 
red stripes on their arms ; and here are beggars, young and 
old, following you with their piteous cries ; shopkeepers 
soliciting your inspection of veritable antiquities ; British 
soldiers with their red coats and white pith helmets ; drago- 
mans standing in front of Shepheard's or some other hotel, 
ready to escort you to old Cairo or old Sinai ; and veiled 
women carrying a jar of water on the head or a dark- 
skinned baby on the shoulders, or possibly both. And 
here are the kawasses of the British, American, or German 
consulate, standing gorgeous in their rich vestments ; and 
here are blue or black robed men lying in the dirt by a 
wall, fast asleep, their faces covered to protect them from 
the flies and the sun. 



THE NILE AND MEMPHIS. 3CI 

Egypt is still plagued with flies during the day that are 
almost as tormenting as the mosquitoes during the night. 
Three hundred and sixty-five times a year the white netting 
must be drawn over one's bed if he hopes to enjoy many 
hours of happy sleep. Nearly every visitor in Cairo very 
soon purchases a fly-brush, made of slender strips of palm- 
leaf, and waves it faithfully through the day. And who has 
not ached to brush away the flies which everywhere in Egypt 
rest undisturbed on the faces and around the eyes of the 
dark-skinned little children. It seems to be in the creed 
of the Egyptian mother that washing the dirt from a child's 
face is in some way perilous. With the accumulation of 
dirt comes the congregation of flies. Down the street walks 
the half- veiled Egyptian woman, and astride her shoulder is 
perched the six months or year-old darhng, resting its face 
on the top of the mother's head, and never making the 
least effort to disturb the pestiferous insects that have fas- 
tened upon it. 

But, compared with Constantinople, Cairo, especially now 
during the British occupation, is bright, clean, and decent. 
And no other city of the world combines with the brilliant 
and picturesque life of the Orient of to-day proximity to a 
life so stupendous and venerable as that represented by the 
pyramids and by the tombs of Memphis. But we are not 
eating the lotus of the Nile nor drinking the poppies of 
Cathay, for every one of our days has had its duties as 
well as its dreams. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

SIGHTS AND PEOPLE IN CAIRO. 

' I ''HE most interesting bits of sight-seeing in Cairo were 
visits to the howling dervishes and the Moslem Uni- 
versity. The faith of Islam does not reveal an attractive or 
even a respectable side in the present performances of the 
dervish saints. The holy circus is given up in the summer- 
time, when foreign visitors are absent, and is resumed at a 
period when the European and American spectators return. 
The stamp, "For revenue only," is on the whole perform- 
ance, and the visitor who has paid the usual fee for admis- 
sion receives a new shock, when, at the end of the howling, 
the son of the sheik, who has just been shouting the name 
of Allah in an ecstasy of devotion, stands at the door of 
exit and impudently asks for " bakshish," like a common 
beggar. 

The monkish retreat, where the dervishes live and hold 
their services on Friday afternoons, is on the banks of the 
Nile, near the island of Roda. We went early and secured 
seats close to the raised platform, covered with rugs and 
skins, on which the holy men are seated. More than 
twenty-five, young and old, with faces of various colors, 
from the deepest black to a complexion almost fair, en- 
gaged in the service, which lasted more than an hour, be- 
ginning with moderate exclamations and ending in fearful 
bellowings and epileptic fits. The participants formed a 
circle, their faces turned toward each other, and all their 
words and motions were in concert. 

There may have been some sincere fanatics among them, 
but unmistakable fraud and low animalism were written on 



SIGHTS AND PEOPLE IN CAIRO. 303 

the faces of others. An American court of justice would be 
inclined to sentence most of them to jail after brief trial. 
The concerted howling of pious exclamations grew louder 
and louder, and the bodies of the dervishes swayed back- 
ward and forward with rhythmic regularity. The voices 
and actions would die down only to be resumed with 
greater violence. Drums and tomtoms were brought in, 
the dervishes rose to their feet, threw off some of their 
garments, and began to sway and scream with increasing 
rapidity and turbulence. Two or three, who had very long 
black hair, loosened it from the turban and presented a 
horrible appearance as they threw themselves backward and 
forward, groaning out in deep gutturals the one pious syl- 
lable on which all united. As the dancing dervishes had 
not resumed their services, the son of the sheik gave us a 
few whirls amid the final hubbub, during which two of the 
ecstatics fell down in violent epilepsy. Several babies, 
whose mothers had previously lost a child, were carried 
around amid these obstreperous saints, so as to insure 
the continuance of the children's lives. 

A certain reverence for all forms of true piety, however 
gross and superstitious, is becoming in us all, but in the 
case I have described reverence was largely overwhelmed 
by disgust. We should have hardly been surprised if some 
of these dervishes had drawn their knives on the Christian 
visitors and begun a little private massacring and plunder- 
ing on their own account. If this be the climax of Moslem 
devotion, I much prefer the simpler and often very impres- 
sive forms of it which I have seen in the mosques. 

I was glad to get a more favorable view of the Moham- 
medan world by visiting the famous University of Cairo. 
Accompanied by the Syrian principal of the Church of 
England School, who kindly offered to act as our dragoman, 
and provided with tickets of admission which we had pur- 
chased at the hotel, we drove through the crowded streets 
in the Arabic part of Cairo, and saw hundreds of students, 
with white turbans on their tarbooshes, going in the same 



304 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

direction. Scores of Arab book-shops began to appear, — 
little storehouses piled with pamphlets. The university is a 
great mosque with a pillared court, an immense square en- 
closure, on the pavements of which thousands of scholars 
are seated, usually in groups, gathered about a teacher. 
Provided with slippers and accompanied by a blue-robed 
guide, we walked about among these acres of pupils, many 
of whom, as it was rather early in the morning, were eating 
a simple breakfast of bread and beans. The buzz of the 
vast throng who were memorizing aloud was that of in- 
numerable human bees, gathering the honey of the Koran. 

These men come from all parts of the Moslem world, 
from the Congo to the Ganges, from the Black Sea to the 
sources of the Nile. Here they learn Arabic grammar, the 
Arabic scriptures, Mohammedan law, and Mohammedan 
philosophy. Modern science is not a part of the curricu- 
lum. I was told by an American scholar in Cairo that 
sheiks in this university believe, on the authority of the 
Koran, that the sun revolves around the earth. Certainly 
the teaching here does not emancipate the mind. It is 
mediaeval and mechanical. The memory is enormously 
cultivated, but not the reason. Some pupils remain here 
twenty years, endeavoring to master the intricacies of an 
Arabic grammar, which, insisting on the perfection of the 
Koran, lays down grammatical rules to which there may be 
hundreds of exceptions, all of which must be faithfully 
memorized. 

Most of these scholars are to be missionaries. Mount- 
ing their camels, they will carry the simple teachings of 
Islam to the idolatrous and savage tribes of Central Africa. 
There is something really sublime in their unswerving faith 
and absolute devotion. Small indeed is the impression 
which a divided and corrupt Christendom has made on the 
stubborn haughtiness of the Moslem world. I have had 
many conversations in Constantinople and Cairo with 
Christians of experience as to the success and failure of 
Christian work among Moslem populations. There have 



SIGHTS AND PEOPLE IN CAIRO. 305 

been genuine conversions to Christianity among the Mos- 
lems of Egypt, but the number is small, and I have a 
conviction that there must be vast improvements in 
Christendom and a long education of Moslem peoples 
under beneficent Christian governments before any large 
victories can be secured. This Moslem school of mission- 
aries shows that Islam has a great life in it and before it. 
I have seen the leading universities of America, Great 
Britain, and Europe, — Harvard, Oxford, Berlin, Paris, — 
but the University of Cairo, older than Oxford and larger 
than Berlin, appears to me the most striking and picturesque 
educational and religious phenomenon that I ever wit- 
nessed. There are from eight thousand to ten thousand 
students in attendance, and the British government looks 
upon this vast concourse not as a body of scholars, but as a 
dangerous crowd of fanatics. We saw the holes made by 
English bullets during the riot of last summer, when a vic- 
tim of the cholera was removed by violence from the 
university. 

Quite in contrast with the noise of the dervishes and the 
crowds in the university was a service which I attended one 
afternoon in the Greek Basilica. An archbishop and per- 
haps six priests were present, but no congregation of wor- 
shippers until Prince Nouri and I entered the beautiful 
church and with bowed heads listened to the chanting of 
Greek prayers. In a few minutes the archbishop beckoned 
us to take episcopal seats in the chancel opposite himself. 
For half an hour I remained, trying to join, at least in spirit, 
in the ancient service, but my mind was busy with thoughts 
not only of the long line of faithful confessors from the days 
of Athanasius, whose piety had found expression in such 
devotions, but also of the manifest unfitness of the methods 
prevailing in these Oriental churches to reach and regenerate 
the unbeheving and corrupted life of to-day. Hov/ can a 
church in whose buildings one may see a painted God the 
Father and a painted God the Son united in crowning the 
Virgin Mary, while a painted God the Holy Spirit hovers 



306 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

over all, expect to convert the stern, unidolatrous, spiritual 
monotheism of Islam? The Biblical lectures, some of 
which I heard at the American Mission in Cairo, given by 
the Reverend W. W. White of the Moody Institute, ad- 
dressed to the minds sometimes of hundreds, appeared to 
me more in the line of worthy and adequate Christian work. 
I felt like saying of such Christian teaching, as Joseph Parker 
once said of the Mosaic account of creation : " It is simple, 
sublime, sufficient." 

The United Presbyterian Church had in Egypt more 
children under its care last year than are found in the newly 
opened schools of the Egyptian government. SeUm Pasha, 
Minister of Public Instruction, told me to-day that the best 
educational work in Egypt is that done by the American 
Mission. It is systematic, well organized, thorough, and 
last year enrolled in its one hundred and sixty-one schools 
ten thousand eight hundred and seventy-one pupils, of whom 
nearly twenty-six hundred were girls. More than one-fifth 
of the pupils were Mohammedans. This great work reaches 
from the Mediterranean to near the First Cataract. Of 
course in a land where the intellectual darkness has been 
truly Egyptian, schools are a fundamental necessity. But 
the other agencies employed by the American Mission are 
evangelistic and medical. The Sunday-school is here seen 
in its efficiency, with over six thousand pupils. A book 
department through its twenty-seven colporteurs sold last 
year more than sixty-two thousand volumes. The women 
of Egypt are reached by Bible teachers who visit the 
homes. There are forty-nine special workers, converted 
women, who have admission to Egyptian households, teach- 
ing their sisters to read, and to read the Bible. There were 
nearly eighteen hundred regular pupils last year among the 
women reached in this effective way. The Gospel is thus 
doing its old-time blessed work in the enlightenment and 
elevation of womanhood. In Moslem households, where 
polygamy prevails, all its evils abound, — jealousies, divisions, 
and inevitable degradation. The husband can dismiss an 



SIGHTS AND PEOPLE IN CAIRO. 307 

old wife v/ith his word, and take a new one at his pleasure. 
Boys are not taught to respect their mothers, who allow them- 
selves to be disobeyed, slapped, and kicked by their sons, 
whom they regard, in true Moslem fashion, as the lords 
of creation. The school work in villages might be largely 
increased if the mission had more native women to send as 
teachers; but the girls educated at the schools are in 
such demand as wives that enough teachers cannot be 
provided. 

But of course church work has not been neglected by 
this wisely conducted mission, which now has thirty-seven 
organized congregations, with five thousand and four com- 
municants. These native Christians are world-famous for 
their liberahty, having contributed last year, for religious 
purposes, m^ore than ^13,500. Those who know what 
Egyptian poverty is, will appreciate the full meaning of this 
statement. The Mission Training College is at Assyut, 
which enrolls four hundred and twenty students. Professor 
White has conducted seventeen meetings in Assyut. He 
informs me that he was much gratified by what he saw and 
heard. Every day was full of interest. The attendance 
was large; and the attention inspiring. Evangelists and the- 
ological students were gathered from all parts of the country 
for this Conference, and thus the whole land of Egypt was 
in a real sense touched. He is much pleased by the dili- 
gence with which the children are studying English, for a 
knowledge of English is a great step toward modern light 
and Christian convictions. 

The other morning we were present at the opening of 
the day-school, and saw its five hundred children together, 
or rather separated, for a red curtain divides the three 
hundred boys from the two hundred girls. All the boys but 
three had fezes on their heads, and they presented a specta- 
cle which I shall long remember, not only on account of its 
picturesqueness, but also on account of its vital relations to 
the future of this old land. On Thanksgiving Day we at- 
tended a reception at the Mission House, at which about 



308 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

twenty-five of our countrymen were present ; and the force 
with which we sang " America " was so tremendous that the 
old Sphinx on the edge of the desert must have pricked up 
his stony ears. 

I have seen many Egyptian villages. The Nile rolls 
beside them, the palm-trees tower above them stately and 
fruitful, and around them are the fields, as Dean Stanley 
said, " unutterably green." But each mud village where the 
fellaheen — men, women, and children — swarm like ants, 
is a spectacle of dirt, — dirt on hands and faces and feet, dirt 
in the air, dirt in the home. The theory that the religion 
of Islam, with its required ablutions, makes people physically 
clean is not supported by facts. The condemnation of 
Mohammedanism is found in the condition of its wretched, 
toiling millions. Palaces and mud-huts make the picture 
of Egyptian Islam, with a few black tents of Bedouin hover- 
ing on the edge of the desert. One cannot imagine these 
poor people continuing the vile and wretched conditions of 
their lives after having received into their minds and hearts 
the enfranchisement of the Christian Gospel. That Gospel 
inspires self-reverence, and lifts men out of the dirt in which 
the Egyptian finds it so pleasant to lie down. In the 
school of the American Mission here, the children are taught 
to be clean. Of the two hundred girls in the school more 
than sixty are boarders, and we saw the rooms where they 
live. Scrupulously neat and orderly they all were. As 
Miss Kyle showed us their sleeping-rooms, dining-room, 
reception-room, and kitchen, I felt that we did not need any 
other evidence of a pure Christianity so far as our religion 
comes into contrast with Mohammedanism, and the cor- 
rupted forms of the old Church of Egypt. These girls are 
taught to take care of their rooms, beds, clothes, persons, 
food. Girls have been taken out of the school by their 
mothers, because they were obliged to comb their hair every 
day, the mothers insisting that once a week was enough ! 

We have seen and learned a great deal of the missionary 
and educational work which for forty years has been car- 



SIGHTS AND PEOPLE IN CAIRO. 309 

lied on by the United Presbyterian Church in Egypt. The 
large Mission House near Shepheard's Hotel has been a 
second home to us, and we have had refreshing Christian 
fellowship in the Christian Endeavor Society, prayer-meet- 
ings, and other services of the mission, and in conference 
with Dr. and Mrs. Watson, Dr. and Mrs. Harvey, Mr. and 
Mrs. John Giffen, the Reverend J. P. White and Mrs. White, 
Miss Smith, Miss Thompson, and others. Last Sunday 
evening we attended the Christian Endeavor prayer meet- 
ing, at which seven nationalities were represented. Follow- 
ing this was the evening service, at which I preached. 
There are often, during the season, which extends from 
Christmas to Easter, as many as fifteen hundred American 
visitors at one time in Cairo. All of these would do well 
to become personally acquainted with the effective Chris- 
tian work done at the American Mission, Thanks to the 
presence and power of the British government in Egypt, 
there have been no interruptions nor disturbances of the 
Christian labor, which now extends its blessings from the 
Delta as far south as Assouan. There have been anxieties. 
Mohammedan fanaticism slumbers in Egypt. The Mos- 
lems sympathize with the Sultan and the other murderers 
of the Armenian Christians. But I thank God that no such 
cloud hangs over the Nile as that which I saw darkening 
the Bosporus. No words that my pen can write will ever 
adequately praise the faith, wisdom, courage, and self-sacri- 
fice of those American missionaries and missionary-teach- 
ers, those able and devoted evangelists, and those scholarly 
ministers whom we saw in Constantinople, and who felt 
that their position and work were insecure so long as the 
jealous powers of Europe continue to act with such inhu- 
man indifference and cruel selfishness. In the midst of 
such a state of affairs as now exists, the American mission- 
aries and teachers have been carrying on their multiplied 
labors with constant fidelity. As in Turkey, Syria, and 
Egypt, we have seen America represented by unselfish 
Christian scholars, physicians, scientists, explorers, and mis- 



310 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

sionaries, while other nations are represented by merchants 
and soldiers, we have felt a noble pride, and some of our 
English friends have shared with us the feeling that the 
great Republic stands for things higher than military 
conquest or profitable trade. 

I have visited the venerable Cyril, Patriarch of Egypt, 
the head of the Orthodox Coptic church. His patriarchal 
palace is hard by the Coptic Cathedral and University. 
I was accoinpanied on this visit by Prince Nouri. I 
am told by the editors of the " Mokattam " that Prince 
Nouri is very eloquent in Arabic, and I can believe it, for 
he took the brief Saxon sentences which I addressed to the 
old Coptic Patriarch, and elaborated and decorated them 
with such Oriental magnificence that the eyes of his Holi- 
ness glistened with pleasure. There were several Coptic 
priests and bishops present at the interview, and they bowed 
and kissed his hand after the fashion which prevails in the 
papal court. Sherbet and coffee were brought in as usual, 
and the kindly Patriarch appeared anxious to prolong the 
visit. He expressed his warm approval of all efforts to 
bring Christians closer together, gave me his apostolic ben- 
ediction, and said that he should earnestly pray that my 
work in India might be for the glory of our Lord and 
Saviour Jesus Christ. As we left the palace, we met the 
newly chosen Coptic Archbishop, Jacobus, who, having 
given us other cups of coffee, made us promise to visit the 
Coptic University, which we did on the following day, when 
we had more coffee before we were presented to Wahby 
Bey, the president of the university, which numbers eight 
hundred students. Still other cups of coffee awaited us 
here. Whenever we entered a class-room, all the young 
men rose, and held their hands to their red fezes in true 
Eastern fashion. I was asked to examine classes in Eng- 
lish and French, and I found the boys quick and apt in their 
replies. It was rather amusing, however, to hear a young 
man of eighteen read from an English Second Reader the 
Story of Jumbo ! The Coptic Christians of Egypt, as the 



SIGHTS AND PEOPLE IN CAIRO. 31I 

Patriarch informed us, number a million, and, allied with 
them, is the great Abyssinian church, several of whose tall, 
dark-skinned representatives we had the pleasure of meeting. 

Another of my pleasant visits in Cairo was a call on the 
family of the late Dr. Van Dyck, of Beirut, who are spend- 
ing the winter in Egypt. Dr. Van Dyck's reputation as an 
Arabic scholar is world-wide, and I have met a young man 
from the banks of the Euphrates who told me that he 
studied geography from an Arabic text-book which the 
great Beirut scholar had written. I was glad to see a por- 
trait of this grand old man, seated on the leafy veranda of 
his summer home, his whole appearance giving one the 
impression that he belonged to the Oriental rather than the 
Occidental world. The printing-presses of Beirut furnish 
the Arabic text-books for mission-schools in Egypt, and one 
of the graduates of our college there, Mr. N. Moghabghab, 
who had charge of an Oriental exhibition at the World's 
Fair, called for me one morning, and showed me through 
the Church Missionary School of Cairo, of which he is prin- 
cipal. The purpose of the Church society, who are evan- 
gelical and low-church in their ideas, is to reach chiefly the 
children of Mohammedans ; and I learned that one-half of 
their one hundred and fifty scholars are from Moslem 
famihes. 

Two of the most enjoyable visits during my stay in 
Cairo were made on Selim Hamaoui Pasha, the Khedive's 
Minister of Education, and the editor of '' El-Falah," an Ara- 
bic newspaper of wide circulation. This courteous gentle- 
man is a member of the Orthodox Greek church, and 
deeply interested in all efforts to bring the churches into 
fraternal relations. It was this which interested him in the 
Religious Congresses in Chicago, full reports of which he 
published in his journal. He gave me the pleasure of 
meeting his wife and daughters, two of whom had attended 
the American Mission School. Selim Pasha was very gen- 
erous in his kindnesses. He escorted me to the Khedive's 
Palace to present me to his Royal Highness, and regretted 



312 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

to learn that the Khedive had suddenly left Cairo and 
would not return until the day after our departure. Then 
he drove to the residence of Lord Cromer, the real ruler 
of Egypt ; and I was glad of an opportunity of expressing 
to this courageous diplomat the gratitude which Americans 
feel for his many services to our mission work in Egypt. 
He expressed his warm appreciation of the importance of 
this work, and his regard for Drs. Watson and Harvey, who 
are at the head of it. England has not succeeded in win- 
ning the love of the Egyptian people ; but English rule has 
abolished forced labor, mitigated cruel punishments, se- 
cured justice, and prevented much of that rapacious taxation 
which ground the fellaheen into the mud. 

But perhaps the most interesting of all my experiences in 
Cairo was an acquaintance made, during two visits, with 
Sophronios, the venerable Greek Patriarch of Alexandria, 
who spends however only a part of his time in that city. 
We usually think of Mr. Gladstone and Pope Leo as the 
most remarkable men now living, but they are juvenile com- 
pared with this Patriarch, whom 1 saw walking with vigorous 
step and whose conversation was full of bright, humorous, 
and earnest intelligence. Sophronios is the oldest prelate 
of the Christian world. He informed us that he was born 
in Constantinople in 1792, and that next month he will 
be one hundred and four years of age. For eighty-five 
years he has been a priest, for seventy-six years a bishop, 
for sixty-eight years an archbishop, for sixty-two years a 
metropolitan, and for thirty-two years a patriarch. For 
four years he was Patriarch of Constantinople, and thus 
held the highest office in the Orthodox Greek church. 
For twenty-eight years he has been Patriarch of Alexandria. 
He is the successor, in direct patriarchal line, of Athanasius. 
His full title is " Pope and Patriarch of Alexandria and 
CEcumenical Judge of the Christian Church." Surely he 
is the Great Pyramid among all living prelates ! His con- 
versation was in Turkish, and Prince Nouri again served as 
interpreter. The Patriarch had on a long fur-lined robe. 




SOPHRONIOS, GREEK PATRIARCH AT ALEXANDRIA. 



SIGHTS AND PEOPLE IN CAIRO. 



o^j 



and on account of this and of his age, he reminded me of 
Rembrandt's picture of old Jacob in the Cassel Gallery. 
One of my first questions was that which Pharaoh put to 
Jacob, "How old art thou?" He expressed a very lively 
interest in the reunion of Christendom, and believed that it 
could be brought about only by a Council of all the Patri- 
archs and Bishops of the churches, with no Roman Pontiff 
demanding supremacy over those who represent the prim- 
itive churches. He told us that he had known six of the 
Sultans and all the rulers of modern Egypt, excepting the 
first, Mohammed Ali, whom, however, he might have known. 
On the fine portrait of himself which he presented to me 
are seen four decorations of the first rank, given him by the 
rulers of Turkey, Russia, Greece, and Germany. He said, " I 
pray for the peace of the nations." I remarked to him that 
he must have seen a great deal of human suffering. In re- 
ply he told us of his going, as Metropolitan, to the island of 
Scio, a few years after the massacres, between 1820 and 
1830, if I remember rightly. He said that one hundred 
and fifty thousand Christians on that island were murdered 
by the Turks, and as many more driven into exile, while 
only a few thousand remained. It is evident that the 
Turkish policy to-day is in sublime consistency with the 
policy of seventy years ago. The Alexandrian Patriarch 
appeared as if he were equal to many more years. I have 
seen men of eighty who looked mucTi older. 

The Coptic Patriarch and Coptic Archbishop, — together 
with several Coptic bishops, as well as the Greek Patriarch 
and the Greek Archbishop, — were men of fine dignity and 
true courtesy, gentle and tolerant in spirit ; the inheritors, I 
should call them, of ancient Christian forms that no longer 
are highly serviceable. They were full of the true brotherly 
spirit to all followers of Jesus Christ, of whatever name or 
ecclesiastical rank. The Roman Cathohc church of course 
recognizes the vaHdity of the orders of these Eastern bishops, 
who now hold what were the primitive seats of Christianity. 
It has been interesting and amusing to note how much more 



314 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

catholic and fraternal are the great dignitaries of the East- 
ern church than are sometimes the Anglican priests, who 
have vainly striven to secure from the Roman Pontiff a 
recognition of the validity of their orders. I have met 
English High Church curates of small ability and no repu- 
tation who were much more pretentious and ecclesiastically 
exclusive than the venerable Sophronios. 

I was anxious to see the better and more liberal side of 
Mohammedanism, and so was glad of an opportunity to 
spend an hour with a learned and progressive Moslem, a 
lineal descendant of the first Caliph, Abu Bekr, and him- 
self the chief of the religious organization of Islam in Egypt. 
Es Seyd El-Bakri lives in a palace which was formerly the 
home of the present Khedive, and he received me on my 
two visits with genuine courtesy. He belongs to that small 
section of the Moslem world that heartily believed in the 
Parliament of Religions, and he is much interested in se- 
curing for the Paris Parliament, if it should be held, an 
adequate representation of Islamic scholarship and faith. 

One peculiarity of Oriental visits is that coffee is inva- 
riably served. Another peculiarity, at least of Egyptian 
social life, is that the topic of the weather is eliminated 
from the conversation. There usually is no weather, for 
every day is like every other. Superficial observers claim 
that the lack of anything like society among Egyptians is 
due to the prevalent seclusion of women. But I am in- 
clined to think that it arises from the absence of weather. 
There was one day, just one day, when Cairo had weather. 
It rained, and rained hard ; and since the streets have no 
gutters or sewers, they presented what every Englishwoman 
calls a " nasty " appearance. The mud on the feet of the 
veiled women became much thicker than the coverings on 
their faces. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

FROM EGYPT TO INDIA, 

/^N December third we left Cairo for Port Said. Our visit 
^-^ had been a rest to the body and a refreshment to the 
mind. We had seen old Egypt and the men who make 
modern Egypt, — the missionaries, teachers, editors. Chris- 
tian and Moslem dignitaries, and some of the officials, 
among whom Selim Pasha, Minister of Public Instruction, 
holds a foremost place in my grateful memory. Some peo- 
ple contend that Lord Cromer is the actual Khedive of 
Egypt, while others hold to the primacy and potency of 
Abbas II. But the best-informed persons all recognize 
that the real Khedive of Egypt is the firm of Thomas Cook 
& Son. It was they that carried the British troops to Don- 
gola, and it is they who would have carried the English 
soldiers to the deliverance of Khartoum and the rescue of 
Gordon, and have got them there on time, if Mr. Gladstone's 
government had only been wise enough to buy its Gordon- 
rescue and Khartoum-relief expedition-tickets at their office. 

Our farewells to prince, pasha, and preacher who saw us 
off at the station were spoken regretfully. The gardens and 
villas about the city were passed, the slender minarets of 
the beautiful Citadel Mosque, and later the awesome Pyra- 
mids disappeared from sight, and we were out amid the 
trees and fields and watercourses, the oxen, the donkeys, 
the camels, the corn, and the cotton, the flocks of white 
ibises, and the black-legged farmers, and mud-walled villages, 
and all the indescribable greenness and fertility of the 
Delta. 

In three-quarters of an hour we reached the town of 
Benha, famous for its grapes and mandarins ; and here the 



3l6 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

train turned eastward, stopping again at Zakazik, a city of 
twenty thousand people, the centre of the Egyptian cotton- 
trade, and in the vicinity of the ancient Bubastis, where 
Herodotus saw erected to Aphrodite the finest temple in 
the world, which sometimes drew seven hundred thousand 
people to its unclean festivals. And then we passed into 
the land of Goshen, swarming with people, as fertile to-day 
as when Joseph placed his brethren here and came down 
from his chariot to meet his father Jacob. What a country 
for Israel to leave to plunge into the Sinai desert ! We 
crossed the fresh-water canal, an old channel reopened to 
bring the waters of the Nile to the twenty-five thousand 
workmen employed on the Suez Canal, who had previously 
been furnished with drinking-water brought by sixteen hun- 
dred camels. The train carried us through Tel-el-Kebir, 
where Arabi met his defeat in 1882, and through Ramses, 
near the sight of Pithom, a treasure city built by Israelites 
for Pharaoh and recently uncovered by the explorer Neville. 
Before reaching Tel-el-Kebir we had come to the edge 
of the Arabian desert, and fields of sand and fields of grain 
presented their strange contrast. With a fine view of the 
Bitter Lakes, through which the Suez Canal passes, we came 
finally to Ismailiya, a very important town in the days of 
Lesseps ; and here we were changed to a steam tramway, 
which, following the course of the Suez Canal, brought us 
early in the evening to Port Said. Before reaching that 
town we had seen great ships, veritable leviathans, lifting 
their backs above the desert rim of the landscape and 
throwing lines of electric light five miles over the smooth 
waters of the channel. How Joseph would have been sur- 
prised to see them, and to be told that these black and fire- 
breathing vessels were carrying wheat to relieve the famine 
of India ! Our train had traversed the length of the Balah 
and Menzaleh lakes, — great shallow sheets of water, aflame 
in the sunset, and the homes of vast flocks of pelicans and 
herons. Our rest that night was in the Hotel de France, 
close to the quay of the Messageries steamers. 



FROM EGYPT TO INDIA. 317 

The next morning we saw what httle of interest is discov- 
erable in this new town of about forty thousand people, 
among whom are twelve thousand Europeans, mostly French. 
The Governor of the Suez Canal, whom I had the pleasure of 
meeting, sent an English captain and sailors of the police 
force to take us aboard our ship. The " Natal" of the Mes- 
sageries line arrived at about noon from Marseilles, and 
after coaling resumed her voyage late in the afternoon. Our 
cabin had been secured last July, and fortunately was in the 
centre of the ship and on the port side. The canal, which 
is a hundred miles in length, was passed in about fifteen 
hours. Vessels here move very slowly, so that the wash 
may not injure the embankment. It was with a strange 
feeling that I passed for the second time through the great 
canal which has changed the course of the world's commerce, 
separating Africa and Asia only to unite them more closely, 
and which has brought London more than seven thousand 
miles nearer to Bombay than in the old times, when vessels 
rounded the Cape of Good Hope. This great achievement 
absorbed one hundred million dollars. But over three 
thousand vessels, of more than ten millions of tons, and 
carrying more than one hundred and fifty thousand pas- 
sengers, pass every year over this watery highway of the 
nations. 

Early in the morning of December fifth we were off the 
town of Suez, and after a very brief delay, during which 
letters were received and sent, the voyage was resumed. 
On the African side of the Gulf of Suez towered the steep 
mountain-range of Attaka, which shut in the fleeing Israel- 
ites, and on the Arabian side was " that great and terrible 
wilderness " of the Sinaitic peninsula. Between stretched 
the waters through which occurred the Exodus, " the great- 
est event before the Christian era." Whether the passage 
of the Red Sea took place opposite Suez or farther north, 
the main geographical features are the same. Those features 
are mountains, desert and sea, the three distinctive elements 
also in the scenery of the peninsula between the Gulf of Suez 



3l8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

and the Gulf of Akaba, the " wilderness of wandering." What 
a region for the discipline of a nation ! What a field for the 
display of divine power and mercy directed to moral ends ! 
Before that hour when the Israelites passed through the 
waters, the drama of human life, whether in Egypt, India, 
or Babylon, appeared to consist of unconnected scenes. 
But, as Bunsen has profoundly said, " History was born on 
that night when Moses led forth his people from Goshen." 
Since then, the drama has been continuous, progressive, and 
sublimely significant. In place of meaningless cycles, there 
was from that hour orderly advancement. The main course 
of human development ran through these waters, and yonder, 
on our left to the wells of Moses, and on to Sinai, to Jeru- 
salem, to Christian Europe, to Christian America. That 
this mighty stream, the main current of human history, is 
destined in the next great age to gather to itself the auxil- 
iary and subsidiary currents, is beginning to be evident to 
Christian and other students of human affairs. 

As we sailed down the Gulf of Suez, the range of Mount 
Sinai lifted its red and jagged peaks into sight. The moun- 
tain of the giving of the law was hidden, but the range itself, 
the scene of such tremendous events, is one of the strangest 
and most impressive spectacles. Here were great peaks 
of over nine thousand feet in height, treeless, verdureless, 
rugged masses of rock, fit symbols of those severe moral 
truths which are the foundation stones of true religion. 
But remembering the Christian's position, I could but say in 
my heart, " We are not come unto Mount Sinai, but unto 
Mount Zion." The next day both Africa and Arabia had 
disappeared. Our ship was in the middle of the Red Sea. 
Its coasts are lined wdth dangerous coral reefs and islands. 
But though Arabia was invisible to the eye, I could but 
remember that the great sandy peninsula lay there to the 
east, the birthplace of Mohammedanism. There was Jedda, 
the rich seaport of Mecca, the chief market for coffee and 
coral and pearls, and the meeting-place for Mohammedan 
pilgrims, flocking hither from the Malayan Archipelago and 



FROM EGYPT TO INDIA. 319 

from Mozambique, and from every town in Africa and Asia 
where tiae Arabian prophet is reverenced as the chief mes- 
senger of God. And not fifty miles from that port is Mecca 
itself, which, like Medina, the sacred city of Mohammed's 
exile, is forbidden ground for the feet of Christians. 
When I was in Cairo, some Arabic- speaking friends gave 
me what I never before had seen, — a photograph of 
Mecca, showing the black Kaaba and the pilgrim's tents 
gathered around that holy shrine. 

The Red Sea, fourteen hundred miles in length, receives 
no rivers. Both sides of it are desert, and the heat which 
the traveller experiences down the length of this caldron 
is usually very intense. But everything is done to provide 
for human comfort. Pre-eminently was this true on the 
"Natal," our strong ship. Rarely — or never, I may truly 
say — have I enjoyed sea travel so keenly. The vessel 
itself was as steady as a rock. There was none of that 
roUing and pitching which our frisky Atlantic steamers 
practise on comparatively still waters. Our cabin was 
large and central. The ship was not crowded, and there 
was plenty of room beneath the huge, thick double awn- 
ings covering the long deck. The service was quick and 
excellent. The table was the most satisfactory that I have 
ever known at sea. Six meals a day were provided for 
those who cared for bread and coffee before breakfast, tea 
and cakes at four in the afternoon, and iced drinks and 
biscuits from eight to eleven o'clock in the evening. Red 
and white wine, Marsala beer, and brandy are provided free 
at all the meals and at any time. But I discovered that 
those who suffered greatly from the heat were those who 
partook most freely of these beverages. Lemons, ice, 
good water, and fruit were also provided in abundance. 

On the second day in the Red Sea great white punkas 
began to wave above the dining-tables, adding to our com- 
fort. The punka-puller was a Chinaman, whom I occa- 
sionally relieved, to show him how the work ought to be 
done. Our ship is one of the smaller and older vessels, 



320 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

but no one could crave anything better. The quiet, gentle- 
manly French officers do their work without any fuss. 
With their spotless white garments, they make you feel cool. 
The ship's bells are not clanging all the while on the " Natal," 
and you are not pestered with prohibitions. After what I 
have reported about the wines, perhaps this remark is unne- 
cessary. Quietness and freedom are the rule. The only 
important prohibition is one requiring gentlemen not to 
appear on deck in nightgowns and slippers except between 
the hours of nine p. m. and nine a. m. ! Of course the baths, 
which one can have at any time, are a great comfort. The 
voyage from Port Said to Bombay is very expensive on all 
the good lines. Our cabin, for two, cost eighty-four pounds 
ten shillings. 

On the afternoon of the fifth day from Suez we reached 
Aden in the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb. This has been an 
English harbor and fortress since 1839. It occupies the 
crater of an extinct volcano, and is one of the hottest 
places in this world and perhaps in any other. A barren 
mountain rises back of it, reminding me of Dante's mount 
of purgatory. The fortifications, clock tower, signal station, 
like the mast of a ship rising from a tall barren peak, made 
the view from the deck strangely picturesque. There are 
no trees and grass in sight, and most of the town is hidden 
behind the hills. More than half the passengers went 
ashore in boats rowed by strong black men, and drove up 
the winding road to the tanks, where water is stored for 
this dry and thirsty region. The town is made up of a 
motley crowd of English soldiers, sailors of many nations, 
Parsis and other Indians, Jews, Portuguese, Egyptians, wild 
Bedouins, horrible-looking Africans from Zanzibar, and 
Arabs from the whole savage region round about. I did 
not land, as I had not yet purchased my pith helmet. 

Our ship was boarded by black barbarians and others 
who ofi'ered us ostrich boas and feathers, ostrich eggs, and 
well-made Arabian baskets. Tall, slim, dark men thronged 
the deck and the saloon, jingling great piles of Indian 



FROM EGYPT TO INDIA. 32 1 

rupees to exchange for napoleons and sovereigns. A silver 
rupee should be worth two shillings; but this piece of 
changeable value is worth now only one shilling and three- 
pence. There were also offered large silver coins bearing 
the head of the Abyssinian King Menelek, 

The funniest sight of our twelve hours in Aden was the 
rusty-headed negro boys, who rowed around the ship, some 
of them in little dug-outs, and dove for coins, which sink 
slowly. Sometimes the sea had on it only empty boats, 
floating oars, and the white soles of upturned feet. At 
Aden we left several of our passengers. Among them was 
a genial and inteUigent French Catholic Bishop of Aden, 
with a Franciscan Brother and a few Sisters. Two others 
who left us there were Mr. and Mrs. Bent, famous travellers 
and explorers. They have journeyed a good deal in Arabia, 
and will now explore the Arabian Desert, so far as the 
savage tribes will permit. At midnight we moved on, and 
the next day were out in the Indian Ocean, enjoying, if not 
Milton's "Sabean odors from the spicy shores of Araby 
the blest," still, what has been equally grateful, a beautiful 
sea and the most refreshing of breezes. 

Before closing this chapter I must unveil the little world 
of human life which gathers from all parts of the earth on 
an Oriental steamer. It has more color and more variety 
than the world with which one becomes familiar in Atlantic 
voyages. While the officers and sailors are French, quite 
a number of the servants are Chinese, Hindu, and Malay. 
The stokers are black men from Aden. On the forward 
deck are gathered about sixty Mohammedans from Bombay 
and from Singapore. They have made the pilgrimage to 
Mecca, and came on board our ship at Aden. I know of 
only four Americans among the passengers, including our- 
selves. One of these is a veteran traveller from California, 
a lame, soldierly old gentleman, talking both French and 
English, and now on his way to Borneo. The other is the 
wife of an English captain. She has just returned from 
America, and has her three little children with her. She 



322 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

had a severe hemorrhage the night we passed through the 
Suez Canal. Her husband has been in the Egyptian army, 
and was sick with the cholera. At Aden she learned that 
the transport which takes him back to India had just left 
for Bombay. Opposite me at the table is an English 
lawyer who has been seven years in Siam. On my right is 
a French gentleman who has travelled much in the East, and 
is now on his way to Tonquin and San Francisco. I asked 
him why he did not travel on a P. and O. boat. He replied, 
" There is nothing to eat but grilled bones and ham and 
eggs." 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

BOMBAY AND THE RIDE TO BENARES. 

f~\^ the morning of December fifteenth we rose rather 
^^ early, and soon saw the mountainous range back of 
the coast-line of the great peninsula, and began to realize 
that India was before us, — India, ancient almost as Egypt, 
a continent in itself, down whose mountain-passes came 
the primeval settlers and conquerors, over whose plains 
have swept the invading armies, — Greek, Scythian, Afghan, 
Tartar, French, and English ; India, the spoil of the nations 
and the theatre for the activity of all the great religions. 

Bombay, built mostly on an island, looked beautiful from 
the sea. We turned southward and entered the harbor, 
which lies back of the city. As we drew nearer, the great 
English buildings loomed large before us. The old fort, 
the lighthouses, and a long array of shipping in the harbor 
all gave the impression of bigness and importance, — an im- 
pression which was not lessened when we caught sight of 
Mr. Rockefeller's great oil-tanks. At last the ship came to 
anchor, perhaps half a mile from the docks. A variety 
of tenders drew near, on which the passengers and their 
luggage were taken, but slowly and with infinite confusion. 
A package of letters was soon placed in my hands, and we 
were at once in communication with all the world again. 
At Aden a bundle of Renter's telegrams was brought aboard, 
and we heard of President Cleveland's Message and other 
things of interest. But our own private world had been 
shut out from us since the morning of our reaching Suez. 
Now, however, the old avenues of communication are 
reopened. The letter which is torn open first of all brings 



324 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

US photographs of our little children, and all Asia fades 
away for a moment in the vision of something far closer to 
our lives. And here are letters from Hindus, representa- 
tives of the Brahmo-Somaj, Buddhists, and others, wel- 
coming us to India, and a messenger leaves a printed 
welcome from the Jains with the information that a dele- 
gation is waiting for us at the docks. As we were busy 
with our trunks, the American missionaries, the Reverend 
Robert A. Hume and his brother the Reverend E. S. Hume, 
made their appearance, and with no reluctance we put 
ourselves into their vigorous and kindly hands. We and 
our luggage were taken on board a rather, large boat, and 
we were rowed over the broad harbor by dark-faced Indians 
of the Moslem faith, whose oars ended in a broad circle. 
After we had chmbed to the top of the stone stairway 
leading up from the water to the landing, we were met by 
a very courteous committee of Jains, who had been ap- 
pointed to give us greeting in behalf of the Jains of India, 
who number about one and a half millions. As Mr. Gandhi, 
who represented the Jains at the Chicago Congress, was a 
guest at my house, very kindly and grateful mention was 
made of this hospitality in the printed address which was 
presented in a beautiful ivory and silver box. Then, in 
accordance with the graceful Hindu custom, long garlands 
of white flowers intertwined with gilt tinsel, were placed 
about our necks, and bouquets were put into our hands. 
This ceremony would have occurred on board the ship had 
the plague not been raging in Bombay, and strict orders 
given prohibiting Indians from going on to the vessel. 
One of our American friends saw one hundred and fifty 
bodies cremated in one day. Business has been very 
much lessened. A pall hangs over the city. The colleges 
are scarcely able to get any classes together. 

Arriving at Mr. Hume's house, we found the boys and 
girls of the American Mission School drawn up in line, one 
hundred and sixty in number, who surprised and thrilled us 
by singing, — 



BOMBAY AND THE RIDE TO BENARES. 325 

" My country 't is of thee, 
Sweet land of liberty." 

Such a song in a far land, coming from such voices gave 
me one of the gladdest and deepest thrills that I have ever 
known. After a few minutes we sat down to luncheon, our 
first meal in India, at which we learned not only that bana- 
nas are here called plantains, and that grape-fruit which is 
red inside is called pomelo, but also that barefooted, dark- 
legged Indian servants, moving noiselessly about the room, 
are as faithful and satisfactory attendants as one can have 
at table. We soon became acquainted with our own ser- 
vant, who had already been secured for the India pilgrunage. 
He is a large, serious, very dark, middle-aged man from 
Poona, named Marutee, which is also the name of the 
Hindu Monkey-god. He is to accompany us in all our 
travels, providing his own food and lodging, and receiving 
thirty-five rupees a month. After luncheon we were taken 
to Mr. and Mrs. Hume's beautiful school, with one hundred 
and sixty pupils, both boys and girls. They sang to us in 
English and in Marathi. Two little girls garlanded our 
necks and wrists with flowers, and two little boys brought us 
bouquets, after which I made a heartfelt address full of 
gratitude and congratulation. The Indian teachers were 
then presented, and Mrs. Hume conducted us through the 
dormitory, where we inspected the boys' clean beds, and 
felt happy and thankful that these children were delivered 
from the dirt which is one of the main afflictions of Bom- 
bay and an underlying cause of the plague. The pupils 
in the American School are children of Indian Christians, 
and, as Mr. Hume said, know nothing about '•' heathenism " 
by personal experience. At five o'clock on this busy and 
eventful day, a reception, admirably arranged by Mrs, Hume, 
was given us at her home, attended by over forty mis- 
sionaries of the city, at which an address of welcome was 
given by Dr. Dugald Mackichan, of Wilson College. 

That evening we left Bombay for Benares, a journey of 
two nights and two days. The Victoria Station, where we 



326 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

saw immense numbers of people belonging to all the sects 
and divisions of India, is regarded as the handsomest rail- 
road station in the world. On the night of our departure 
from Bombay it was certainly the liveliest and most pictur- 
esque. In this journey to Benares we realized fully two 
things, — that the midday is like midsummer, and that the 
midnight is like midwinter. There are no sleepers. But 
we had bought pillows and had with us our steamer rugs, 
and managed to escape colds in the night-time, and by 
keeping always in the shade we avoided sunstroke in the 
daytime. Very comfortable meals are provided at certain 
stations, and are telegraphed for by the guard having 
charge. 

On the morning of December sixteenth, I looked out for 
the first time on the fields of India. During the night we 
had climbed the coast-range, and the dawn revealed to us 
the features of a landscape reminding me of the vast prairies 
of my own country, except that hills now and then appeared 
on the horizon, some of them jagged and wild. Clumps 
and rows of trees, all of them strange to us, diversified and 
colored the dry, brown landscape with patches of green. 
One's first feeling was the wideness and bigness of India, — 
a striking contrast to Egypt, Palestine, and Greece. But the 
evidences of drought were painfully present, and the shiver- 
ing, half-starved, and half-naked figures which in the early 
morning came out of the wretched mud villages or gath- 
ered at the pretty stations of the Great Indian Peninsula 
Railroad, showed us that famine is impending. But a poor 
ragged girl, hardly able to stand, would not take from us a 
part of the ample and delicious luncheon which Mrs. Hume 
had provided. Hungry American children would have 
scrambled for a piece of the cake which this Hindu girl 
sadly refused. But she picked up the half-anna which I 
threw to her, equivalent to six pie or one cent. From all 
this La Signora evolved the first generalization applicable 
to India. It is this : that starving Hindu children will take 
pie but not cake from the hands of Christians ! In our long 



BOMBAY AND THE RIDE TO BENARES. 327 

ride through Central India we became famihar with the 
look of the landscape and the more interesting look of the 
people, a people of the most various types and costumes. 
The colors and the garments and the faces and the noises 
at one of the great railway stations of India make you feel 
how tame and commonplace was the Midway Plaisance. 
Such impossible greens, blues, purples, reds, and yellows ! 
Such headdresses of every size and shade and shape ! We 
saw Mohammedans who had dyed their beards and hair 
orange color, and wore long gold-embroidered robes, and 
walked barefooted or in stockingless slippers. But to me 
the most evident fact in India thus far has not been any 
splendor of foliage or flowers, nor the appearance of mon- 
keys in fields, nor the new kinds of vegetation, nor even 
the general poverty everywhere apparent. To me the most 
evident fact in India is the human leg. It is usually bare 
to the hip. Men with their heads and bodies covered with 
white cotton cloth walk bare-legged through field and 
street. Brown legs, slim legs, black legs, hairy legs, legs 
larger at the knees than at the thigh, so slim and spare that 
you wonder how the body is supported, legs of boys and 
young men and old men, of little girls with sweet faces and 
dark fawn-hke eyes, — these are the objects which the non- 
Christian populations of India thrust before the eyes of 
travellers. It seems incredible that in the frigid morning 
hours these Hindus can be comfortably warm. One reason 
that people can live on so little in this populous land is the 
abolition of trousers. If India should suddenly be con- 
verted to Christianity, the demand for pantaloons would 
enrich hundreds of wholesale clothiers in New York and 
London. 

Crossing the Jumna by the finest railway bridge in India, 
we arrived at Allahabad on the morning of December 
seventeenth. This city of one hundred and eighty thousand 
people is the seat of the government of the Northwest 
Provinces and Oudh. It stands not far from the junction 
of the Ganges and the Jumna, and is interesting for the 



328 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

great fort built here by Akbar ; for three large mausoleums 
in a beautiful garden near the station, which we were able 
to visit ; for the Pillar of the Buddhist Emperor Asoka, cov- 
ered with his famous edicts, dating more than two hundred 
years before Christ ; and also for the Mela, or popular re- 
ligious fair, which in the month of January brings hundreds 
of thousands of pilgrims to encamp on the sandy plain 
between the Jumna and the Ganges, and to bathe in those 
sacred rivers. At Mogul Serai, which is nine hundred 
and thirty miles from Bombay, we left our train for another, 
which brought us in half an hour to Benares. Crossing the 
steel bridge over the majestic and sacred Ganges, we caught 
our first view of the venerable city which is Jerusalem, 
Mecca, and Rome all combined, to the devout populations 
of India, two hundred millions of whom still hold to the 
ancestral faith. 

Rising from the broad current of the Ganges on its left 
bank are miles of palaces and temples, with broad stairways 
descending to the sacred shore, which make a unique and 
striking picture. Above all this architecture, and in con- 
trast with all, springs high in the air the great mosque, 
built by the terrible Mogul Emperor Aurangzeb, the Moslem 
iconoclast, who destroyed nearly all the Hindu temples of 
idolatrous Benares. But this great emperor, who for forty- 
nine years ruled the Mogul dominion and stretched it to 
its widest limits, could not uproot Hinduism and its per- 
petual fascination. This bigoted oppressor of the princes 
and people smote fiercely at Benares, and I have seen in 
its streets tops of temples which his soldiers had broken 
ofif, and faces of idols which they had mutilated. But 
Benares boasts to-day more than three thousand important 
Hindu shrines, while nearly every Hindu house belonging 
to a well-to-do man has its own temple and gods almost 
innumerable. Still, the Moslems constitute one-fourth of a 
population of two hundred thousand, and Aurangzeb's 
mosque is the most conspicuous object in Benares. Some 
one has said of it that its two minarets, rising above this 



BOMBAY AND THE RIDE TO BENARES. 329 

inflorescence of temples, spring straight upward, white 
against the blue of the sky, with the ardor of a prayer, with 
the impetuosity of a cry ; and one perceives in them the 
fervent work of a simple, resolute, monotheistic, and ardent 
race. 

Before reaching Benares we made the acquaintance on 
the train of Mr. W. S. Caine, for many years a member of 
Parliament, and the author of ''Picturesque India." He 
has made four visits to this city, and I heard him deliver 
one of the best of temperance lectures in the town hall. He 
is wisely anxious that drinking habits should not become 
fastened upon the Indian peoples. A flourishing temperance 
society exists in Benares, which was started by that world- 
encompassing traveller and toiler in the good cause, Mrs. 
Leavitt. I became acquainted with the President of this 
Society, Babu R. K. Chandhuri, — an estimable gentleman, 
who had given up Hinduism. • 

At the station we were met by our host, the Reverend 
Arthur Parker, of the London Mission, and within his house 
we spent five days. The compound of this mission encloses 
a church building in the Greek style of architecture, the mis- 
sion-school building, and the broad-verandahed, one-story 
house of the missionary's family. Mrs. Parker gave us a 
sight of the compound school, with its two hundred poor 
children, mostly girls. Some of them were nearly naked ; 
most of them underfed. It breaks one's heart to look at 
their poverty and wretchedness, to think of the conditions 
under which they live, and to remember how little life has 
to offer them. Their happiest hours are those spent in the 
school, where they are taught to read and sing. Mrs. Bar- 
rows saw also the school for high-caste girls of the London 
Mission, and visited two Zenanas. 

On the evening of our arrival I met and addressed 
about thirty of the missionary workers. More than two 
thousand in Benares are now under regular Christian influ- 
ences. Many more are reached by street preaching, in 
which the women missionaries are quite as active and 



330 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

successful as the men. A statement having been prmted 
in America that no Aryan in India ever was converted to 
Christianity, I wish to say that I saw a converted Brahman, 
a catechist of the Church Missionary Society, preaching in 
one of the streets not far from the bathing-ghats. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

BENARES. 

1\ /TY days in Benares were among the busiest that I have 
•*■-*• ever known. Besides a lecture on Shakespeare de- 
Hvered in the London Mission College, I preached twice 
on Sunday, December twentieth, and lectured on the Par- 
liament of Religions in the Town Hall. On Monday I 
made an address on "Reading" to the boys of the high 
school, and said a few brief words to the children of the 
compound school. The lecture on Sunday night was an 
interesting experience, and was my first opportunity of talking 
religion to a Hindu audience. The cantonment where the 
English residents are found is perhaps two miles from the 
city, and we drove about so much that it seemed wise to 
hire a carriage by the day. The carriage bill for five days 
was twenty rupees, or about six dollars. I mention this as 
an illustration of the general cheapness of labor in India. 
A tailor's wages are about eight rupees a month. A San- 
scrit pundit in the London Mission College receives twenty 
rupees a month, and the Moslem teacher of Persian and 
Arabic twenty-eight rupees. 

I made three visits to the bathing-ghats on the Ganges, 
getting my first near view of them from the observatory, 
a lofty building near the edge of the river. We climbed the 
stone staircases to the roof of this structure, which was built 
in the eighteenth century by the order of the Mogul emperor, 
who appointed Jay Sing, a famous astronomer of that time, to 
reform the astronomical tables. This is one of five observa- 
tories erected by him in different parts of India. Interest- 
ing, indeed, are the immense stone instruments, — the mural 



332 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

quadrant, the sun dials, and other devices on an enormous 
scale with which his work was carried on. The view of the 
ghats from the observatory is a most extraordinary scene. 
But we came much closer to it by taking a boat which 
looks like a diminutive Noah's ark. Seated on the top of 
this, and shading our eyes from the morning sun, we were 
rowed up and down the holy stream, gazing in rapt astonish- 
ment at the thousands of bathers who had come down to 
the Ganges. It seemed as if the whole city were taking an 
ablution and saying its morning prayers. 

Here was half-naked humanity in swarms, — old men 
with bald heads, women of every age, brown figures in in- 
exhaustible variety. Here were the Brahmans at their 
morning devotions, repeating the prayers which for three 
thousand years have been spoken to the rising sun and to 
the sacred river : " O Ganges, daughter of Vishnu, thou 
springest from Vishnu's foot. Thou art beloved by him. 
Remove from us the stains of sin and of birth." With 
minute care the Brahman goes through the prescribed ritual. 
We saw hundreds taking an internal ablution, lifting the 
water from the stream to the mouth. On the water's edge 
the worshippers uttered the solemn syllables of some divine 
name. We saw multitudes standing in the stream, with 
faces toward the sun, and then dipping themselves again 
and again beneath the cold surface. Thousands were drying 
their bodies or rinsing their clothes. Higher up, and over- 
looking the bathing, were the " Sons of the Ganges," or the 
guardians of these vast ablutions. Seated under great straw 
umbrellas on platforms, they overlook the crouching, ges- 
ticulating, praying, bathing, dripping, ejaculating throngs. 
Every person holds in his hand a brass bowl, which shines 
like a sun. The movements and attitudes of many of the 
figures on the bank appear to be those of insanity. The 
spectacles which one beholds as he moves up and down the 
river have been well described as visions of some opium 
dream. 

The architecture is noble and impressive. Great build- 



BENARES. 333 

ings, some of them the homes of Brahmans, others the 
mansions of rajahs, others still a variety of many-colored 
temples, before which are ugly stone images or symbols of 
gods, make a lofty and broken line against the blue of the 
western sky. But the picture of human life which one be- 
holds along the bank of the river seems like a sketch from 
a madman's dream. We go back to the shore. Wreaths 
of yellow flowers have been thrown into the stream. Some 
of these are decaying. A sewer empties its filth into the 
Ganges close to a company of bathers, who seem un- 
mindful of it. 

Once more upon the banks, we inspect this strange life 
more closely still. Pilgrims have come from all over India 
to this holiest shrine of Hinduism. Two hundred thousand 
find their way here every year. Benares is altogether holy. 
He who dies within its walls is in no peril from sin or cere- 
monial pollution. It has been said that a Christian or a 
Moslem, or even a man who has killed a cow and eaten of 
its flesh, is surely carried to the Himalayan paradise of Siva 
if fortunate enough to die in Benares. 

The old and the incurable are brought here, that after 
their death their ashes may be flung into the river. The 
great god of the holy city is Siva, the destroyer and repro- 
ducer. He is everywhere worshipped under the symbol 
of the lingam. These symbols of various sizes are in the 
three thousand temples of the city, in the homes, along the 
streets, and huddled together sometimes on a platform 
around a holy tree. One devotee has been known to sit 
upon the bank of the Ganges day after day, making small 
mud models of Siva's symbol and casting them into the 
river. A grain of rice is stuck into each to represent the 
divine principle. He usually moulds and throws from him 
two thousand of these models in a day. 

And here we saw the fakirs in all their dirty glory, their 
faces smeared with the ashes of burnt cow-mud, their heads 
a tangled mass of hair, looking like tarred oakum. Near 
the Golden Temple, the central shrine of Siva worship, we 



334 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

became acquainted with a fakir who lives on a wagon, from 
which he never descends. On his head I saw a monstrous 
black turban, as I supposed, which in reality was the piled- 
up folds and strings of an abnormal growth of hair. At 
Mr. Parker's request he rose and unloosed the mighty mass. 
It reached down more than seven feet, and was divided into 
black strings or ropes of hair, ornamented at intervals with 
rings, and so dirty that it stuck together. The man had 
a really pleasant face, and one longed to have charge of 
him ; a barber's shop, a Turkish bath, a tailor's establishment, 
and a Christian dinner-table might in a week transform him 
into a respectable if not useful member of society. 

In our first visit to the Ganges we came close to the burn- 
ing-ghats, where one body was already nearly consumed. 
The attendant was stirring up the embers, and with a long 
pole breaking all the human fragments that remained. Two 
bodies of women were brought down to the water's edge 
while we waited. Since they were women, they were 
clothed in red. While the wood was being piled up, the 
bodies were immersed in the Ganges to gain a final blessing 
from its waters. The cremation is intrusted to one partic- 
ular caste, and none of the relatives are present at the burn- 
ing excepting the eldest son, if the body is that of his father 
or mother. It is his duty to set fire to the pile. Mr. 
Parker informs me that the grief which death often occa- 
sions in a Hindu family is an inexpressible agony. The 
separation to them is hopeless and eternal. 

The beggars that beset you along the Ganges are the 
most pitiful human objects that my eyes ever have seen. 
Such withered, diseased, maimed, crippled, deformed 
specimens of abject humanity cannot be described. Al- 
most equally with them one pities the crowd of pilgrims 
who descend to the Well of the Ear-ring and get permission 
to cast their flowers therein. Among the temples along the 
shore is that of the goddess of small-pox. Mr. Caine told 
me that in one Indian city where vaccination was intro- 
duced, the people thought it was deadly, and so they tried 



BENARES. 335 

it first on their girls. But when the small-pox came the 
boys died and the girls lived. After this experience they 
decided to vaccinate their girls no more. But the boys are 
vaccinated. No words can describe the religious scenes in 
the older and narrower streets of Benares, where idolatry 
appears to be the main business of life. There are more 
idols than people. Women coming back from the Ganges, 
holding their brass bowls filled with water, carefully avoid 
brushing against you lest they be polluted. The shops are 
filled with gods. Offerings of flowers as well as of rice and of 
sacred water are paid to ten thousand images. Cows, " con- 
scious of their divinity," walk unmolested amid all these 
scenes. The filth in some places is indescribable. In 
the Cow Temple, sacred to the goddess of plenty, I saw the 
worshippers kissing the cows' tails ; and here we saw the 
popular worship of Ganesh, or Ganesa, the god of wisdom, 
with an elephant's trunk and, a great stomach. Ganesh is 
the son of Siva and Kali. A brass figure of him appears 
over the outer door of the Golden Temple, into which we 
gazed but could not enter. 

But we did find our way into the Monkey Temple, which 
is sacred to Kali. Our clerical guide preceded us, and an- 
nounced to the guardians of the shrine, " This Sahib gives 
bakshish ! " The monkeys have free access to this holy 
place, and the screaming and chattering animals, which are 
frequently fed, make it very attractive. With popcorn in 
your palm you could shake hands with these lively brethren. 
The Sahib who gives bakshish was also permitted to see the 
great knife with which the heads of goats are cut off when 
bloody offerings are made to the terrible goddess. Kali is 
usually represented with four hands, a necklace of skulls, 
and is standing on the body of her husband, the divine Siva. 
In her ecstasy at destroying a giant she tramples by mistake 
on her husband, and she is pictured with her tongue out, 
" to express surprise and sorrow." Some emancipated wo- 
man has asserted that Kali was deified because she was the 
first wife who ever jumped on her husband, but I hope 



336 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Americans will not believe this slander against the Hindu 
people. 

This mild race, whom I find it very easy to love, have a 
liking for the terrible. A showman whom we encountered 
on the great stairways leading to the river, opened for our 
pleasure a bag filled with scorpions. The snakes which he 
exhibited were not unfamiliar ; but when he brought out a 
fine cobra and made him waltz to the music of his pipe, I 
felt that I had seen something original and even aboriginal. 
One of the most interesting scenes is a little congregation 
of old women, seated near a pundit, who reads to them by 
the hour from the sacred poems of India. I had for my 
guide one day the Reverend J. J. Johnson of the Church Mis- 
sionary Society, himself a Sanscrit scholar and a student 
of Hindu philosophy. From him I could learn what the 
pundits were reading. In one case it was the story of the 
coming incarnation of Krishna, and of the efforts made by 
his enemies to prevent it by killing the infant children. I 
called with Mr. Johnson at the College of the Maharajah of 
Cashmere. This is an institution for Indian scholars, where 
the instruction is far from modern and scientific. The 
pundits were all away at the time of our visit, but I saw the 
class-rooms and the building. Everything was a strange 
contrast v/ith what we see at home. The rooms have no 
furniture, no table, no chairs, no pictures, no desks, no 
book-cases, no blackboards, no maps. The rooms were 
not rooms, but alcoves, about a central square. As we 
ascended story after story, our youthful guide, a boy of 
fifteen, grandson of the principal, would call out, " Vedanta," 
" Astronomy," " Ramayana," *' General Literature," " Pu- 
ranas," indicating thus the places where these themes were 
treated. This Brahman boy had the most remarkable voice 
to which I ever listened. It was very loud, sharp, and 
commanding. It had the tones of a law-giver proclaiming 
the edicts of heaven. The explanation, according to my 
clerical friend, was that he spent his time in reading aloud 
from the Hindu Shastras. 



BEAL4RES. 337 

I must give an account of three remarkable men whom I 
have visited, types of saintly and philosophic Hinduism. 
Benares is the headquarters of Hindu orthodoxy and of the 
highest Sanscrit learning. First we called upon Vishudd- 
thanand Swami, who has the reputation of being not only a 
great pundit, but also the second saint in Benares, inferior 
only to the famous ascetic Saraswati. In one of the high 
buildings overlooking the Ganges dwells this Swami with 
the unpronounceable name. We climbed two or three 
flights of stone steps before we reached the open space 
where he sat naked in the sun. His light-brown, heavy 
body is surmounted by a head that is intellectual, and his 
face is intensely serious. He spoke with interest of the 
Parliament of Religions, and said that the idea was a good 
one, although he expressed profound contempt of the 
Hinduism there represented, since it was not of his own 
kind. " How can one teach," he said, " who never has 
learned ? '' About this Swami were gathered a number of 
devotees, listening reverently to every word. He was glad 
to learn that a new congress may be held in Paris. On 
leaving him, before descending to the street, we entered 
a small room where six of his pupils, some of them quite 
old, were reading aloud from the sacred literature which 
constitutes almost their entire stock of knowledge. I in- 
quired of them, through my interpreter, if they knew any- 
thing of the Christian Scriptures, and received a negative 
reply, together with this profound aphorism : " A wise 
man, before learning anything new, inquires, ' What purpose 
will it serve?'" We expressed the opinion that they 
ought, for the sake of their own intellectual expansion, to 
learn the contents of the Christian Scriptures. But it 
seemed to them foolish, both because they had not yet read 
all of their own sacred writings, and because the wisdom 
which these contain is inexhaustible ! One cannot but 
smile at such provincialism, narrowness, and conceit. 
Here were men deeming themselves wise and teachers 
of the wise cooped in a little room high above the 



338 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

sacred Ganges, in a venerable and holy city, surrounded by 
temples and innumerable images, and by a population that 
reveres them as the sons of heaven. Yet with all their 
knowledge they did not realize that their minds were 
dwelling in a hideous past, and that their lives were girt by 
a grotesque, wretched, and pitiable present, for which they 
and theirs were largely responsible. It is ignorance that 
keeps popular Hinduism going; it is learned ignorance 
that perpetuates the conceit of orthodox Hinduism. Be- 
nares is the great fortress of the ancient faith, which 
Christianity is but slowly undermining. 

Our next call was upon Pundit Ram Misra Sastri, a pro- 
fessor of Philosophy in Queen's College, Benares. This 
college building is beautiful, and in the spacious gardens 
about it is a fine collection of sculptured stones, many of 
them Buddhistic, brought from Sarnath and elsewhere. 
The pundit received us with real cordiality,* and soon we 
were seated in the library. He was barefooted, and 
rubbed his feet together under his chair as he talked on 
high themes in fairly good English. I put to him the ques- 
tion : "What are the fundamental principles of Hinduism?" 

" Real Hinduism holds to the reality of the world, the 
reality of the soul, the reality and unity of the great God, 
and believes that only through divine mercy can men come 
into unison with God," he replied. 

I said to him, "That is Christian." 

" Why call it Christian? " he said. "■ It is Vedic." 

Although the pundit represents a philosophic sect which 
is small and comparatively modern, he strenuously holds 
that his Vedism is the only true Vedism. I never have 
heard more scornful contempt expressed for other men's 
orthodoxy. He is much interested in the possible Paris 
Parliament of 1900, but says that unless a railroad is built 
from India to France in order to avoid crossing the for- 
bidden water, no real Hindu can attend it ; and yet he is 
a highly respected and learned professor in an English 
government college. 



BENARES. 339 

But I think most of ray readers will be as much interested 
in the external as in the internal life of Benares. Who can 
picture it? Who can tell of this endless succession of 
scenes, weird, beautiful, disgusting? Who can describe the 
vast human crowd; the wrinkled or youthful faces; the 
strange occupations ; the men by the hundred sitting down 
in the street or on the shore of the Ganges and submitting 
their heads to the barbers' razors ; the blue peacocks, the 
goats, and other animals, wandering about unmolested ; the 
queer ekkas, or bullock carts, though sometimes drawn by 
horses ; the shops filled with Benares brass-work ; the 
naked children walking comfortably along in the bright 
sunshine ? 

Our last morning in Benares was a delightfully busy one 
in company with our host. We went to inspect a great 
charity, and saw the beggars eat rice and pulse daily fur- 
nished by benevolent Hindus. We called on Dr. Lazarus, 
who has been nearly fifty years in India. He has a large 
printing-establishment, and is at present engaged in publish- 
ing an English translation of the Vedas in full, — something 
which has never yet been done. We paid our respects to 
the Well of Knowledge, which owes its supernatural powers 
to the fact that a stone deity, whose fine temple near by 
was being destroyed by the Mogul Aurangzeb, kindly jumped 
into its waters. It is not a very clean or attractive 
place. We made another visit to the Golden Temple, 
bought a few idols, saw the Cow Temple, a filthy place 
where the divine quadrupeds in large numbers were placidly 
walking about, and touched the pinnacle of our morning's 
interest by a visit to the Monkey Temple. 

I have referred to two interesting Hindu personages on 
whom I called. After leaving the Monkey Temple we went 
to see a third, the most interesting of all. This is Swami 
Bhaskara Nand Saraswati, the ascetic, familiarly known as 
"The Holy Man of Benares." He lives in a beautiful 
home and garden given him by a rajah. His attendant 
wrapped a cloth around his naked body as we appeared. 



340 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Had La Signora not been with us, this clean, nice-looking 
old man of sixty-five years would have received us as Mil- 
ton's Adam received the affable angel. He remembered 
my correspondence with him. The Swami told me that he 
thought Jesus was a very good man. His own ideal of 
goodness was the character of the Reverend Mr. Hewlett, 
now dead, and once at the head of the London Mission in 
Benares. The dear old man's vanity beams all the while 
from his benevolent face. He had us write our names in 
his great autograph book, where Mark Twain had inscribed 
his name, with this touching sentiment : " There appear to 
be a good many of my fellow-countrymen abroad this 
year." The Swami gave us a pamphlet about himself, and 
showed us his life-sized marble image in a shrine which 
stands in his garden. The image was freshly garlanded, 
and the Swami enjoys seeing his followers come to worship 
it. One of the leading citizens of Benares I did not see, 
Mrs. Annie Besant. She was off on a lecturing tour among 
this people, whose religion she has wholly adopted. 

But Benares should be seen. It never can be described. 
At most only a sketch of some of its peculiar features is 
possible. Here Hinduism shows its endurance and elas- 
ticity. One afternoon we drove a few miles out to Sarnath, 
where we saw the remains of two great ruined towers. One 
of them, Dhamek, is still a noble structure, one hundred 
and twenty-eight feet high. Buddha, after his enlighten- 
ment at Gaya, went to Benares to preach Nirvana and the 
Law. And this sacred monument is a memorial of his mis- 
sion to old Benares twenty-four centuries ago. Some of 
its stones have been gilded by pilgrims from far-ofif China. 
Near by this tope, or tower, is a Jain temple, the shrine of 
a kindred faith. Buddhism came to rule India for hun- 
dreds of years, but Hinduism finally drove it out. Islam 
smote the shrines of the sacred city with remorseless intol- 
erance. But Hinduism survives. Will Christianity, the 
religion of reason, of love, of brotherhood, of purity, of 
unselfishness, ever displace the popular Hinduism? It 



BENARES. 341 

seems to me that no one who believes in the order and 
rationality of the universe can visit Benares without feeling 
that popular Hinduism cannot always continue. No speedy 
disintegration is probable, but in the long ages which are 
before us reason and righteousness will prevail. Some hor- 
rible things of the past have been removed already. 
Along the river bank we saw decorated upright stones, mark- 
ing the places where women were burned with the bodies 
of their husbands in those " good old times " before Lord 
William Bentinck abolished this cruel abomination. 

We left Benares regretfully. Our kind host accompanied 
us to the station, and there Mr. Shiva S. Sing, a young barris- 
ter of the High Court, also came to see us off. A ride of 
about eighteen hours brought us to Calcutta, to Howrah, 
the station on the west bank of the Hoogly, where our 
hearts were rejoiced as well as surprised to find a half- 
score of friends at seven o'clock in the morning. Mr. P. 
C. Mozoomdar's was the only familiar face among them, 
and how delighted we were to see him ! The Reverend 
Dr. Macdonald, Secretary of the Missionary Conference of 
Calcutta, one of the most influential Christians in India, 
also greeted us. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

CALCUTTA. 

"X^THILE the early English colonists in America were 
^ * planning the settlements, clearing the forests, up- 
turning the soil, and fighting the aborigines, the English 
traders, the representatives of the East India Company and 
later of the United Company of the Merchants of England 
Trading with the East Indies, were establishing their fac- 
tories and building their forts in Madras, Bombay, and in 
Hoogly in Lower Bengal. The Portuguese had enjoyed 
during the sixteenth century a monopoly of the East Indian 
trade, but they possessed, as Sir William Hunter has said, 
" neither the poUtical strength nor the personal character 
necessary to found an empire in India." The Dutch broke 
through their monopoly ; they laid the foundations of per- 
manent supremacy in Java, and struggled with the English 
for the trade of India. But their policy, which was founded 
"upon a strict monopoly of the trade in spices," led to the 
organization of the great English trading company which 
was the beginning of England's permanent, beneficent, and 
mighty empire in the East. 

The Pilgrim Fathers had been only twenty years in Ply- 
mouth when an English factory was established at Hoogly. 
The Mogul emperors granted concessions and exclusive 
privileges here and there, but the English trading settle- 
ments were in constant danger from the capricious enmity 
of the native governors ; and when orders were issued in 
1686 by the Nawab of Bengal confiscating all the English 
factories in that province, the merchants retreated more 
than twenty miles down the river Hoogly to a swampy 
httle village now a part of Calcutta. 



CALCUTTA. 343 

The story of the enlargement of this settlement and of 
the English dominion until it embraced a population of 
three hundred millions is one of the most complicated, pic- 
turesque, and tragic in human annals. The struggles with 
Indian princes and with French armies, the cruelties and 
extortions practised, the crafty playing off of rival native 
rulers against each other, the gradually improving character 
of British rule, the vast changes wrought by contact with 
Western civilization, — all this is one of the most richly in- 
structive pages of history. The city which England created 
on the Hoogly is now the seat of government for the whole 
Indian Empire. It may not have the charms for the sight- 
seer belonging to Bombay, Benares, and Delhi, but I have 
found it the centre of influences and activities most varied, 
interesting, and vital. We have been made welcome in the 
homes of Principal and Mrs. Morrison of the General As- 
sembly's Institution, and of Dr. and Mrs. K. S. Macdonald 
of the Free Church of Scotland, and have found them de- 
lightful representatives of that intellectual and Christian 
life which is the true hope of India. We have come to the 
conclusion that Scotch Presbyterians like these hospitable 
friends cannot be surpassed by the choicest exponents of 
any other nation or creed. 

Calcutta has a population of nearly nine hundred thou- 
sand, of whom thirty thousand are Christians. It is called 
the City of Palaces, but I prefer to call it the City of Col- 
leges. Within a half-mile of the building of the Young 
Men's Christian Association are institutions containing 
forty-three hundred college students ; within a mile of 
this important centre are institutions with about seven thou- 
sand college students. It is said that about ten thousand 
from Bengal take their entrance examinations here every 
year. The Lady Dufferin Hospital has been purchased by 
the Young Men's Christian Association, and is being 
changed and enlarged so as to accommodate their work. 
Mr. J. Campbell White, the vigorous American superintend- 
ent of the Association, has just received a valuable addi- 



344 



A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 



tion to his working force by the coming of his brother, 
Professor W. W. White, from the Moody Institute, Chi- 
cago. These men justly deem this the grandest opening 
for Christian effort among non-Christian college men to be 
found in Asia, or perhaps in the world. A drive through 
the city shows you colleges, often with Greek columned 
porticos that have a strange look in India, — colleges every- 
where. At the reception given to me shortly after my 
arrival, at the palace of the Maharajah, it seemed that 
almost every other man was a teacher, professor, or pre- 
sident in some institution. But I should not confine 
this statement to men. Learned women are not unknown 
or unappreciated ; and among those present at the re- 
ception was Miss Bose, head of the Bethune Government 
College for Women, a Christian lady of ability and culture, 
and a niece of the Reverend Mr. Bose, whose work on 
Hindu philosophy is well known in America. 

But my readers must not think that Calcutta is all col- 
leges. It has some fine government buildings and many 
spacious and splendid residences. I had the pleasure of a 
conversation with Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Lieutenant- 
Governor of Bengal, a man of great force and wide experi- 
ence in Indian affairs. He is also a warm and intelligent 
friend of Christian missions. He told me that he always 
had believed that India was yet to have a national church, 
which would not be the Free Church of Scotland or the 
Church of England or any other Western organization. In 
a recent address he said that he looked forward to the ris- 
ing of some great Indian apostle, who would kindle the fuel 
that had been laid by these Christian colleges into one glow- 
ing mass of enthusiasm. I found the Lieutenant-Governor 
not at all in sympathy with the Indian National Congress, 
which has just closed its sessions in Calcutta. He regards 
it as a movement led by ambitious Hindus, who do not 
represent the people, and who are stirring up opposition to 
British influence and authority. The official classes gen- 
erally are hostile to the Congress. 



CALCUTTA. 345 

We dined the other evening with the Honorable Justice 
Ameer Ali, well known throughout the world for his literary 
championship of Islam. He is a delightful man, and his 
English wife is one of the most charming of hostesses. It 
was a great disappointment to him that the British govern- 
ment would not give him a release from ofhcial duties, so 
that he could visit Chicago in 1893 and represent his faith 
at our Congress. He is engaged now upon a history of the 
Saracens, and he showed me the great French and Arabic 
books which furnish the original authorities for this work. 
Ameer Ali is of Persian extraction, and Persian is one of 
the languages with which he is conversant. He is looked 
upon, both within and without the Indian Empire, as the 
chief defender of Islam. Dr. Washburn of Constantinople 
told me that he had read four or five times Ameer AU's 
large volume on Mohammedanism. To him it was one 
of the most fascinating of books, but also misleading, as it 
enveloped Islam v^ith roseate and romantic hues. 

At the Ameer Ali dinner-table we met some important 
Anglo- Indians, and among them the Home Secretary of the 
Lieutenant-Governor. He used to be the English judge at 
Gaya, where Buddha had his enlightenment, and he gave me 
the history of Mr. Dharmapala's efforts to re-establish the 
temple of Buddha-Gaya as a Buddhist shrine. Justice 
Ameer Ali also is not a friend of the Indian National Con- 
gress, which, in his opinion, is designed to advance the 
interests of Hindus rather than of Moslems. There are 
fifty-seven million Mohammedans in India, and the leaders 
among them generally keep aloof from the Congress. How- 
ever, the President of the Congress is this year a Moham- 
medan from Bombay, and I listened to a part of his open- 
ing address. 

In Beadon Square rises the huge Pandal, or tabernacle, 
thatched with grass, with an opening around its whole 
circle, and adorned within and without with flags, in which 
the Indian National Congress has held its sessions. About 
one hundred slim pillars, fashioned to look like tall, delicate 



346 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

palm-trees, support the wide roof, which is ceiled with white 
cloth and profusely and briUiantly decorated. We attended 
the opening session, at which perhaps five thousand people 
were present. It certainly was a marvellously interesting 
gathering ; the educated men from all parts of India, of all 
races and of all religions ; the costumes so varied and often 
so beautiful ; the singing by a large choir, made up mostly of 
Brahmos, of a national hymn to national music, — these were 
features of great interest. The Brahmo and Christian 
Indian ladies who sat near us, clothed in light silk dresses 
with veils of tissue, often embroidered with threads of gold, 
made a lovely picture. The President of the Congress de- 
livered a very long and able opening address, describing 
the purpose of the Congress and giving reasons why Mus- 
sulmans should co-operate. 

The Indian peoples certainly have grievances, not the 
least of which is the incredible and unpardonable delay of the 
British government in India to provide famine relief. Fur- 
thermore, the Indian peoples have aspirations after national 
unity and larger privileges of self-government, with which 
one does in a measure sympathize. The example of the 
United States, as a Hindu professor of history in a govern- 
ment college said to us yesterday, showing how national 
unity may be combined with state rights and local self- 
government, is teaching India, and filling her educated 
minds with patriotic and laudable hopes. 

Parts of Calcutta are exceedingly modern and European; 
but these are often close to streets and scenes of Indian 
and aboriginal simplicity. The white-robed, bare-limbed 
crowds moving quickly up and down the streets in front of 
the shops ; the water and milk carriers, with great jars sus- 
pended from an elastic bow over the shoulders ; the men 
dressing their hair, cleaning their ears, cutting their toenails, 
scouring their teeth, rubbing their bodies with oil, or sub- 
mitting their faces to the razor right in the street and before 
the eyes of everybody ; the carding of cotton with a rough 
spring bow ; the bathing of men, women, and children not 



CALCUTTA. 347 

only in the Ganges, but also in the hundred large tanks 
provided by the government in different parts of the city ; 
the washing and drying of the strips of cotton cloth which 
serve for garments, the naked bodies and uncovered heads 
of perhaps one- half of the native male population ; the en- 
tirely naked children ; the bullock carts, where the driver 
sits on a projection of the cart between the heads of the 
little animals, which he mildly flagellates, — all this is far 
from European and Occidental, and quite in contrast with 
the government houses, the post-office, the telegraph office, 
the monuments, the university buildings, and the beautiful 
cathedral, costing fifty thousand pounds, paid for in part 
by taxes from a miserable and half-starved peasantry. The 
fine post-office, surmounted by a lofty dome, stands on the 
site of the famous Black Hole, which has given to Calcutta 
a place in the minds of millions who know nothing else of 
this Indian capital. 

Calcutta gets its name from Kali Ghat, the site of a Kali 
temple which we visited the other morning in company with 
Principal Morrison. When the goddess was cut to pieces, 
one of her fingers fell on this spot, and the temple built at 
this sacred place brings great wealth to the priestly family 
who manage it. The shrine is not a cleanly one and very 
far from attractive. We did not see the famous image of 
Kali, as the doors were not yet open ; but in another temple 
we saw one almost equally fine, that is equally horrible. We 
have also visited the Zoological Garden, and duly admired 
the Bengal tigers and the superb collection of Indian rep- 
tiles. I have seen too the Jain temples, surrounded by gar- 
dens, which a wealthy Jain opens to his fellow believers. 
The whole region is a stately pleasure-house. The tanks are 
full of fish ; the garden is full of statues, a curious combina- 
tion of Greek and Oriental sculpture. Jain worshippers paint 
their foreheads with yellow. They are said to be surely 
becoming Hinduized, and are likely to be absorbed by 
the most omnivorous of religions. The Jains here are a 
wealthy and benevolent part of the population, and their 



348 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

annual procession is the most brilliant spectacle of the 
year. 

Rarely in my life have I been so occupied as during our 
Calcutta visit. The weather has been fine, not excessively 
warm, and I have been able to undergo an amount of work 
which the " old Indian " deems rather unusual. I have 
averaged two addresses a day, and probably have driven 
fifty miles to make them, I like the domestic arrange- 
ments, which furnish an opportunity for the greatest amount 
of work, Maruti wakes me before seven in the morning, 
and brings in the chota hazri, or little breakfast. I thus 
get two hours before the nine-o'clock breakfast. This in- 
terval is usually filled with calls. The Indians call at this 
time ; the Europeans between twelve and two. Tiffin, or 
luncheon, is at half-past two o'clock, tea at half-past four, 
lectures at five and at half-past six, dinner at half-past eight. 
The manners of the Indian people are the most courteous 
and pleasant possible. They could give Saxon peoples 
valuable lessons in conversation and demeanor. I find 
that the Indians are not pleased with the ordinary ways 
of the Englishman, who is often needlessly domineering, 
brusque, and discourteous. The English are one of the 
greatest of nations ; they have wrought for the Indian 
peoples an immeasurable service ; but they have not gained 
their hearts. In saying this I do not forget, however, that 
many noble Christian missionaries, men and women, have 
won the deepest affection of their Indian converts and 
friends. 

I could write a dozen chapters detailing interesting con- 
versations and giving my experiences in Calcutta in connec- 
tion with the founding of the Indian lectureship. It must 
suffice, however, for me at this time to record my apprecia- 
tion of the mind and spirit shown by the non-Christian 
educated Hindus. Such patient attention, such hearty and 
general responsiveness, such constant courtesy, such intel- 
ligent insight into the best utterances I have been able to 
offer, such freedom from taking offence at the most pro- 



CALCUTTA. 349 

nounced Christian sentiments and convictions, I did not 
expect to find. The demonstration made at the close of 
the last lecture was especially gratifying, and Mrs. Haskell's 
name and generous deeds were enthusiastically and repeat- 
edly applauded. On every occasion where her name has 
been mentioned, — in the Maharajah's palace, at the various 
receptions given by the Brahmos in the homes of Mr. P. C. 
Mozoomdar and the late Keshub Chundar Sen, in the 
hall of the London Missionary Institution and of the Gen- 
eral Assembly's Institution, — it has awakened immediate 
response. 

The impression seems to be at present strong in Calcutta 
that the University of Chicago's lectureship in this city was 
needed, and that its continuance will be permanently use- 
ful. It is well known that Christianity has not made large 
inroads as yet into the higher ranks of Hindu society. The 
most gratifying feature of the India lectureship thus far has 
been the presence at our meetings of many who have not 
heretofore attended distinctively Christian lectures. These 
are men who are not reached by the evangelistic methods 
which are so useful among other classes. Still the educated 
Bengali Christians whom I have come to know are as re- 
fined and pleasant people as one would ever meet. A num- 
ber of them were invited by Mrs. Macdonald to dine with 
us ; and added to the pleasant company was the Hon. A. N. 
Bose, a foremost man among the Brahmos, a Cambridge 
wrangler and a member of the Lieutenant-Governor's 
Council. 

I think most of my readers will be interested in a sketch, 
however hasty and imperfect, of the reception given me on 
December twenty-third, in the palace of the Maharajah, the 
leading nobleman of Calcutta, by representatives of the 
Hindu, Mohammedan, Jain, Parsi, Buddhist, Brahmo, and 
Christian communities. The Maharajah Bahadur, Sir J. 
N, Tagore, belongs to a historic line, and is an orthodox 
Hindu in belief and practice, though his family lost caste 
several generations ago by involuntarily smelling food which 



350 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

had been cooked by Mohammedans. The palace is sur- 
rounded by many of the poorer buildings and residences 
of the Hindu quarter. Across the street from it is the 
new palace, in process of erection, which has some of the 
features of Windsor Castle. As we entered the Maharajah's 
residence, we passed between red-coated Indian soldiers, 
and up the stairway, through an army of servants, to the 
spacious and splendid drawing-room, carpeted in red and 
adorned with portraits. Two hundred guests assembled 
here. The Maharajah, who has an intellectual face and 
gentle manners, received us, assisted by his adopted son. 

Of course no ladies of this Hindu household were visible, 
but among the guests were perhaps fifty ladies, either 
Europeans or Americans or members of the Brahmo and 
Christian communities. Among these were several who had 
taken their degrees at the university. Nearly all the Ben- 
gali ladies wore the Indian costume, which is beautiful and 
picturesque. The scene was varied and brilliant, and re- 
minded us of the receptions given to the delegates to the 
Parliament of Religions by Mr. and Mrs. A. C. Bartlett and 
Mr. and Mrs. E. W. Blatchford in 1893. The costumes 
were more picturesque in Calcutta, but the faiths and 
nations represented were more varied in Chicago. 

Among those present were the Prince of Mysore ; Mr. 
Justice and Mrs. Ameer Ali ; Justice D. G. Banurji, an 
orthodox Hindu, and one of the most respected men in the 
city ; Mr. R. D. Mehta, a leading Parsi ; the Honorable 
Surendra Nath Banerjea, a former President of the Indian 
Congress ; Professor and Mrs. Tomory of Duff College ; 
Mr. P. C. Mozoomdar, and perhaps twenty other leading 
representatives of the Brahmo Somaj ; Rai Jotindra Nath 
Chowdri, a landed proprietor, who is very active in the 
present Hindu revival ; perhaps forty representatives of the 
Christian community; many Hindus, several Jains and 
Buddhists, together with heads of colleges in this great 
collegiate centre. No words can do justice to the courtesy 
with which these representatives of many faiths spoke of 




SIR J. U. TAGORE, MAHARAJAH BAHADUR. 



CALCUTTA. 351 

the kindnesses shown to the Oriental delegates by American 
friends. The heart of this great Indian people has been 
touched by the regard and sympathy with which the Indian 
delegates were received in my own country. Many beau- 
tiful and loving words have I heard spoken of America 
since I came to Calcutta. 

The reception lasted three hours. Of course the gracious 
Hindu nobleman could not provide food as a part of the 
evening's entertainment. But we had something better, — 
fine Hindu music, skilful and wonderful Hindu jugglery, and 
all the amenities of Hindu courtesy. Dr. K. S. Macdonald 
made the address of welcome, and in my reply I spoke of 
the great privilege at last given me of standing on the soil 
of India and of bringing a loving salutation from the young 
and vigorous West to the thoughtful East. I described the 
hopes and purposes of the lectureship on Christianity, and 
I took special pleasure in referring to the great past and 
greater future of India, and expressed the conviction that 
the best ministry of rehgion Ues in the years to come, when 
men shall be bound together into a cosmopolitan fraternity. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. — THE BRAHMO SOMAJ. 

T T is one of the truest of old sayings about travel that you 
-*■ find what you are looking for. In India we find every- 
where missions, and I can easily make fun of those globe- 
trotters who see in India tigers and temples, bazaars and 
nautch-dances, but no evidences that Christian Europe and 
America are doing anything for the evangelizing of this 
great land. Missions and missionaries in Bombay, missions 
and missionaries in Benares, missions and missionaries in 
Calcutta ! 

The problems are so many, vast, and comphcated that 
one becomes convinced that there is no man living who 
thoroughly understands India and Indian missions. Still, 
there are some things which I am certain that I should be 
just as sure of after a residence here of forty years as I am 
to-day ; namely, that India needs Christianity and that 
Christian missionaries are doing good work. A number of 
the Brahmos realize and acknowledge that Christ is to have 
a great part in the regeneration of India, while Hindus and 
Mohammedans understand perfectly well that the schools 
and colleges which Christianity has fostered have created 
some of the better conditions of the new national life. 

In Benares we saw popular Hinduism, and were far from 
fascinated by its phenomena. In Calcutta we met very 
many of the educated Bengali converts to Christianity, and 
we were highly pleased by what we saw and heard of these 
fine-hearted Christian men and women. The educated 
Indians who are Christians do adorn the doctrine of the 
Lord Jesus Christ. Mr. K, C. Banurji, who presided at one 



CHRISTIAN MISSIONS.— THE BRAHMO SOMA/. 353 

of my lectures and was very active in the recent Indian 
National Congress, is greatly loved for his character, and 
has a wide reputation as a persuasive and eloquent speaker. 
I have assured him that he ought to go to Great Britain and 
America. He could speak with a sweet, reasonable author- 
ity in regard to the needs of India. Another whom I 
would mention is Mr. B. L. Chatterjea. a subordinate judge 
of Bengal, whose decisions were never over-ruled by a 
higher court. When our hostess, Mrs. Macdonald, invited 
him with others to dine with us, he gave me some " Papers 
for Thoughtful Men " which he had prepared. One of 
them, which has passed through four editions, is called " A 
Brahman Convert's Testimony for Christ," in which he 
tells us how the doctrine of atonement, instead of being a 
stumbling-block in his way, became the staff of his life. He 
told me that Channing converted him to faith in the divine 
origin of Christianity, and that Moses Stuart's reply to 
Channing converted him to faith in the divinity of Christ. 
I have seen and heard many things which lead me to place 
a high estimate on the value to India of the best Christian 
literature, and particularly of a Christian literature prepared 
especially for the Hindu mind. Among the educated 
Christian women whom we met in Calcutta I have men- 
tioned Miss Bose, the superintendent of the Bethune Col- 
lege for girls, a government institution with about a hundred 
and eighty students, whom I had the pleasure of addressing 
last Monday morning. She is a M. A., and is greatly es- 
teemed. It was pleasant to see the Hindu pundits and 
teachers of philosophy and history who serve in Bethune 
College under this lady's direction. Miss Bose rightly 
believes that India will never be regenerated until women 
are educated. When Macaulay was here and saw fourteen 
hundred Bengali boys studying English in the government 
schools, he prophesied that in thirty years idolatry and its 
accompanying evils would be swept away ! The fatal mis- 
take of the government was not to take in hand the educa- 
tion of women from the very beginning. Society cannot 

23 



354 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

rise much higher than the household, than the mind and 
heart of the mother. A radical Hindu reformer from 
Madras expressed to me the opinion that most Indian 
young men take on an English education simply to get an 
appointment and thus make a living. And he believes that 
if the government would reserve for women exclusively a 
large number of the lower civil offices which were to be 
theirs after the usual examinations, this change would do 
much to solve the problem of woman's education. I need 
not say that idolatry has not disappeared; and however 
strong and enduring the hold of Hinduism over the popular 
mind, and this hold is social more than religious, the Brah- 
man priests are not generally respected by well-informed 
persons. At the recent Indian Social Congress in Calcutta 
a resolution was passed asking the government to superin- 
tend the administration of the funds of the temples, where 
the worship is sometimes attended with well-known immo- 
ralities. When I said to Professor Max Miiller that it had 
been denied that such immoralities were practised, he 
smiled and said, " One has only to consult the reports found 
in the Indian Census prepared by the British government." 
Christmas was a strange, busy day, in a strange, far-off" 
land, although among very friendly people. Our Christmas 
letters from America did not arrive until a week later. But 
there were tokens from friends in Calcutta, and a generous 
gift of Indian fruits and sweetmeats from Mrs. Mozoomdar. 
I attended Christmas service at the Dharamtala Metho- 
dist Church, and preached on " The Living Christ." In 
the evening I gave my second lecture. Dr. K. S. Mac- 
donald in the chair, on the '' World-wide Eff'ects of Chris- 
tianity." The next evening I gave a lecture on "Christian 
Theism the Basis of a Universal Religion," Mr. K. C. 
Banurji, the Christian Bengali to whom I have already 
referred, being in the chair. After the three first lectures 
I felt much more at home with the acute and sympathetic 
Hindu mind. Not only did I greatly enjoy bringing my 
message to their earnest attention, but I felt that each 



CHRISTIAN MISSIONS.— THE BRAHMO SOMA/. 355 

address belonged to the world of action. It was a serious 
business stamped with reality. It appeared to me a very 
different thing from proclaiming a similar message before 
Christian audiences, already persuaded of the truth. On 
Sunday, December twenty-seventh, the various Brahmo 
communities gave us a reception in Albert Hall, with ad- 
dresses by four of their Calcutta leaders, among whom was 
the Honorable A. M. Bose. Another of the speakers was 
Mr. M. N. Bose, editor of "Unity and the Minister," the 
favorite disciple of the late Keshub Chunder Sen, a man 
full of enthusiasm for Christ and full of the spirit of Christ. 
From Albert Hall we went to Beadon Square, to the out-door 
preaching service in which Dr. Macdonald has been for many 
years actively interested. A chorus furnished by the Young 
Men's Christian Association led in the musical service, and 
I preached from Christ's invitation " Come unto Me " to a 
standing company, among whom I recognized a number of 
Hindu college students. Beadon Square is now a historic 
place, for there was fought out and won by the mission- 
aries, headed by Dr. Macdonald, the battle for the right of 
open-air preaching in the squares of Calcutta, without let 
or hindrance and without the need of securing a special 
license liable to be revoked by caprice or malice. For two 
years before 1881 the open-air preaching in the squares of 
Calcutta had attracted larger audiences of non-Christian 
listeners than had ever before been secured in the city. 
The municipal commissioners, the chairman of whom was a 
Roman Catholic appointed by the Lieutenant-Governor, 
determined to stop any meetings for religious preaching in 
four squares of the city without special permission from the 
chairman. This man was also the head of the police of 
Calcutta, and was appointed by the Lieutenant-Governor, 
who was hostile both to missions and to morality. Orders 
were given by the police commanding Dr. Macdonald and 
another preacher to stop, while they were speaking to an 
orderly company in Beadon Square on Sunday the first of 
May. They refused to obey what they deemed an illegal 



356 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

order, and at a subsequent meeting were arrested. The 
crusade against the preachers caused immense excitement, 
and the missionaries, obedient as good citizens to due 
authority, having no wish to infringe the rights of other 
people, not desiring any special privileges in connection 
with open-air preaching which had been going on for fifty 
years, believing that the stopping of preaching could not 
well be effected without an unwarranted interference with 
the liberty of the citizens, informed the head of the local 
government that they had the same right to enter Beadon 
Square with other people, and the same right to speak 
there with those who were ready to listen. Without going 
into further details of the history let me say that the case 
was finally brought to trial before a court consisting of 
four justices, one a Moslem, one a Hindu, and two of them 
Christians. The missionaries engaged the best native law- 
yers, and the trial lasted two weeks. The decision of the 
judges was unanimous, and was written and read by the 
Moslem, Justice Ameer Ali. It was a crushing defeat for 
the Lieutenant-Governor and his allies. Although at first 
there was a purpose to appeal to a higher court, it was 
abandoned. There was no desire to stir up the Christian 
and liberty-loving public of England. And Beadon Square 
is now a sanctuary of free speech. On Sunday evening I 
attended a meeting of the Fourth Indian Convention of the 
Young Men's Christian Association, and spoke on the 
" Truth and Comfort of Christian Theism." 

On Monday, December twenty-eighth, I gave my first lec- 
ture at the southern end of Calcutta in the London Mission 
Institution at Bhawanipore. On Tuesday morning we 
accepted the invitation of Dr. and Mrs. Macdonald to spend 
the rest of our stay in Calcutta with them, and on both Tues- 
day and Wednesday I gave two other lectures in Bhawanipore. 
On Wednesday afternoon a reception was given us at Peace 
Cottage by Mr. and Mrs. Mozoomdar, which I must briefly 
describe, as it illustrates Indian ways of welcoming guests. 
A conch shell sounded its note as we entered the gate. As 



CHRISTIAN MISSIONS.— THE BRA HMO SOMA/. 357 

we drew near the house, rose-petals were showered upon us 
from a balcony. Mr. Mozoomdar was dressed in the white 
robes which he wears when preaching. Mrs. Mozoomdar, 
who does not speak English, made an address to Mrs. 
Barrows in Bengali. We were garlanded, and then pre- 
sented to the Brahmo ladies, a beautiful group of about 
twenty young women. Our host made an address, to which 
I responded, after which some remarks were made by the 
Reverend Mr. Harwood of England. Incense sticks were 
burned, — another note of welcome. Seventeen different 
kinds of fruits and Indian sweetmeats were spread before 
us. Some of these were delicious. Then Sanscrit and 
Bengali hymns were sung by the " Singing Apostle " among 
the Brahmos, to the accompaniment of a violin played by a 
beautiful young girl, who also sang. Among the twenty 
Indian gentlemen present, several were Brahmo preachers. 
Before leaving we were shown through our host's pleasant 
and simply furnished cottage. I was glad to see a marble 
cross standing on Mr. Mozoomdar's table. The hour we 
spent in Peace Cottage was one of the most beautiful of our 
lives. 

On Thursday morning I addressed a Boys' Reading Club. 
In the evening I resumed my work in the General Assem- 
bly's Institution, giving my fourth lecture, which has for 
its theme " The Universal Book." At half-past six I 
was driven to the Calcutta University, where I delivered an 
address on " The Parliament of Religions," — a vital theme 
here in India, involving questions of perpetual interest. 

Friday, January first, was a novel opening to a new year. 
In the afternoon we accepted the invitation of the Maharani 
of Kuch Behar, the daughter of the late Keshub Chunder 
Sen, to visit her mother and herself at Lily Cottage. A 
bell sounded as we entered the yard, and "Welcome" in 
silver letters was over door and stairway. It is thirteen 
years now since the eloquent reformer, the best-known 
Hindu of this generation, entered into his rest. The first 
day of January is a sacred day with the family, who always 



358 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

spend it at Lily Cottage together. Kesliub Chunder Sen 
died January eighth, 1884 ; but on the first day of that year 
he made his last public prayer, dedicating the sanctuary 
near to his house and connected with it. We found it filled 
with flowers ; and the monument near by, under which his 
ashes are buried, was garlanded. On his tomb are inscrip- 
tions in four languages, and above it is a marble symbol 
composed of the cross, crescent, and trident. Within the 
house garlands, sweets, fruits, tea, singing, and playing 
entertained us. The Maharani is the wife of the Maharajah 
of Kuch Behar, and is a beautiful and accomplished princess. 
When in England, she was a guest of the Queen at Windsor 
Castle. The widow of Keshub Chunder Sen is a sweet- 
faced lady, rich in the love of her ten children and eighteen 
grandchildren. She was glad to hear that her husband's 
words had been widely read and were much appreciated in 
America. A lovelier family and a sweeter family life I have 
never seen. Not only the Maharani, but several of her 
brothers, sisters, nephews, and nieces were at Lily Cottage, 
together with some Brahmos, and among them the " beloved 
disciple." The room where the Indian reformer died is 
kept as he left it, and was fragrant with fresh flowers. The 
household revere him not only as husband, father, and 
grandfather, but also as a prophet. Two portraits of 
Keshub Chunder Sen were given us, together with a set of 
his works. The best utterances of this great man are 
among the classics of the Spirit. That afternoon I lectured 
on " The Universal Man and Saviour," a leading Hindu 
land-owner, Rai J. N. Chowdry, presiding, and later in 
the evening made an address at Keshub Chunder Sen's 
church. 

Saturday afternoon the Missionary Conference of Calcutta 
gave us a delightful reception at the residence of Principal 
and Mrs. Morrison. Most of the time was taken up with 
addresses made by Principal Morrison representing the 
Church of Scotland, the Reverend Mr. Kerry of the English 
Baptist Mission, the Reverend J. E. Robinson of the " In- 



CHRISTIAN MISSIONS.— THE BRAHMO SOMA/. 359 

dian Witness " representing the American Methodists, Dr. 
Macdonald of the Free church, the Reverend G. H. Parsons 
of the Church Missionary Society, and others ; full of con- 
gratulation over the establishment of the lectureship and of 
thanks to Mrs. Haskell for her wise generosity. After the 
reception I gave my closing lecture on the " Historic Char- 
acter of Christianity as establishing its Claim of Universal 
Authority." 

On Sunday afternoon, January third, I lectured on " The 
Spiritual World of Shakespeare " before the young men of 
Calcutta, Justice Banurji presiding and making a beautiful 
address. After tea with Mr. and Mrs. J. Campbell White 
at the Young Men's Christian Association, I drove to 
St. Andrew's Church, Dalhousie Square, and preached for 
the Reverend Mr. Taylor of the Church of Scotland. The 
prominent feature in this large building is a pulpit about 
twenty-five feet high, which the preacher ascends by a nar- 
row spiral ■ staircase. It is really not a bad place to preach 
from. Looking around me, I saw the audience seated in 
the lofty gallery, and then looking into the depth below I 
descried dimly another congregation. In this way the 
preacher gets a double inspiration. On Monday morning, 
January fourth, after visiting Bethune College, I called on 
the Maharajah who gave the reception at the beginning of 
my Calcutta experiences. At half-past four we left for 
Darjeeling, the representatives of four religions coming to 
the station to see us off. 

This is a very imperfect account of one of the most de- 
lightful and interesting fortnights that I have ever spent. 
I have not written of the breakfasts, teas, and dinners at 
which I met many pleasant people, nor of the scores of 
callers who turned the drawing-room into a veritable Con- 
gress of the Faiths, nor of the visit which I made at the 
office of the Maha Bodhi Journal, where I met a Japanese 
Buddhist priest, a Singhalese Buddhist priest, and other 
friends of Mr. Dharmapala ; nor of conferences with repre- 
sentatives of the Newer Hinduism, one of whom brought us 



36o A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

a bushel of fruits on the day of our departure. There were 
incidents and associations connected with my visit to the 
church of Keshub Chunder Sen which would furnish mate- 
rials of themselves for a chapter. Nor have I spoken of the 
kind offer of the " Indian Mirror," a Hindu paper, to publish 
all my lectures in full. I should have been glad to accept 
the offer if I had not been under appointment to give the 
same course in other Indian cities. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

DARJEELING, LUCKNOW, AND CAWNPORE. 

A FOUR hours' dusty ride brought us to the Ganges. 
■^^- We had passed through the suburbs of Calcutta, 
through a rich prairie-Hke country of rice-fields and 
palm groves, and in the darkness of early evening had 
reached the Mississippi-like flood of the sacred river. 
Maruti, our " boy," comes to the railway carriage with 
a squad of light-footed, quick-handed coolies ; and soon 
our luggage, excepting the " boxes," which have been 
registered "through" to Darjeeling, is on the heads of 
these nimble servitors. It takes five of them usually to 
carry our light luggage, which they do very quickly. One 
German "Trager" with his strap would transport it all. 
The terminus of the railway changes with the variable 
banks of the Ganges. The train runs out on a temporary 
track to a great ferry steamer. On this we have our dinner ; 
and our companions are a young English gentleman and 
two ladies who were table companions on our voyage from 
Egypt. They have come for tigers, and in two weeks the 
preparations for the hunt will be ready for them somewhere 
in Central India. That night in our " carriage " there is 
much noise and dust. At Siliguri in the morning we 
change trains and have breakfast. We are still in a vast 
level country, which suggests to some travellers the Russian 
steppes, but to me the Western prairies. There is no sign 
of the Himalayas a hundred miles away ; and the pale, 
precise outline of snowy peaks in the clouds, which from 
this point sometimes appears to the traveller, suggesting 
" an inaccessible paradise hung in ether, an abode of the 
luminous, sovereign devas," did not greet our eyes. 



362 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

In the new train, which we boarded at Siliguri, we be- 
gan our gradual climb to the foot-hills. This train runs on 
a two-foot gauge. It is but fifty miles to Darjeeling, but 
we are eight hours in reaching it over one of the most 
interesting and picturesque routes in the world. In about 
a dozen miles we get to the foot-hills, and then La Signora 
and I were glad that we had taken the comfortable arm- 
chairs of an open carriage. The cars are very short, less 
than eight feet long, in order to accommodate them to 
the sharp curves. The line winds or zigzags as it climbs 
the seventy-four hundred feet up the rugged gorges and 
over the wooded sides of the huge-backed hills. A pro- 
fusion of vegetable growths surpasses anything I have 
seen before. The clumps of grass look like sheaves of 
small sugar-canes, while the clusters of bamboos appear 
like vigorous and thick-planted saplings. In the deep 
jungles one thousand feet below us wild hogs, bears, deer, 
buffaloes, tigers, and rhinoceroses are said to flourish, find- 
ing an almost safe home in the impenetrable wildernesses. 
Our eyes are delighted by Nature's growths, so lavishly 
abundant, — by the oaks and banyans, the mulberry and 
India-rubber trees, the figs and acacias, the peaches and 
almonds and chestnuts, by the intertwisted or down-hang- 
ing vines of almost endless length, and by what I never 
had seen before, except in conservatories, the lovely tree 
ferns. 

Tea plantations come in sight, and they look very pretty, 
— prettier, I think, than the close-pruned vineyards along 
the Rhine. It is the abundant rains, produced by the clouds 
from the Indian Ocean striking the Himalayan wall, that 
call forth this superabundant vegetation. But the railway 
itself interests us continually. It twists and turns, now 
making a loop so that we pass over our former track ; and 
sometimes we look down on three almost parallel lines, the 
second rising above the first, and the third above the 
second. It grows very cold as we ascend to the four 
thousand feet station, and when five thousand, six thou- 



DARJEELING, LUC KNOW, AND C AWN PORE. 363 

sand, and seven thousand feet are reached we feel as if 
winter were rushing down upon us from the high home of 
the gods. 

One of the striking things of the journey to Darjeehng, 
from Sihgurij is the gradual change in the types of the 
people. The delicate-looking, thinly clothed Bengali, with 
his light-colored robes, gives way to the square-faced Mon- 
gol mountaineer, with his thick dark woollen cloak, his 
coarse, unintellectual face, his felt boots and his great 
triangular yataghan, big enough, as one has said, to dis- 
embowel an elephant. We have struck another race. 
We are on the confines of a new world, the world of 
Thibet, China, Tartary, Siberia. The Himalayas are the 
dividing wall of huge tribes. But over the passes the 
rough, thick-legged, and warlike Mongols have found their 
way, and now live in the villages which are strung like 
coins along the line of this mountain railway. They have 
brought their religion with them, — a debased kind of 
Buddhism, which mingles often in a strange, confused 
way with the popular Hinduism. 

At the Darjeeling station we were met by a son of 
Keshub Chunder Sen, and also by the Reverend A. TurnbuU 
of the Church of Scotland mission, who was to be our 
host. We were soon settled in Mr. Turnbull's mission 
house, and succeeded after a while in thawing ourselves 
out by his hospitable fire. The great mountains were 
covered by clouds, and we had hoped that on the morrow 
the shining home of the Hindu divinities might be revealed 
to us. But our hopes were doomed to disappointment, 
although about ten o'clock one patch of dazzling white 
was visible high up amid the clouds. It was so high up 
and so far away that at first we might have mistaken it for 
a cloud. But no, it was a peak soaring ten thousand feet 
nearer the sky than the loftiest height of Switzerland. In 
the afternoon we strolled through the rather interesting 
bazaar and looked in at the Bazaar mission school. In the 
morning we had seen two other schools where the children 



364 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

appeared to me half frozen. Night came, and the clouds 
thickened, and we went to bed with no hope of seeing on 
the morrow the unspeakable magnificence of that view 
which draws travellers to Darjeeling from every part of 
the world. At about half-past six the next morning our 
watchful host pounded at the door, with the joyful cry, 
" The snows are out. Come at once, for the clouds may 
soon cover them." Barefooted and stockingfooted, we two 
rushed across the frosty lawn, with steamer rugs over our 
shoulders, and saw and rejoiced and worshipped. The 
spectacle lasted three hours. After dressing and " chota 
hazri," accompanied by our host, we walked through one 
of the upper streets of Darjeeling, around Observatory 
Hill, with eyes turned in adoring awe to the heavens. 
Forty miles away were the great snow peaks. Perhaps 
ten thousand feet below their summits was a billowy sea 
of white cloud. These white giants among all mountains 
appeared to have no pillared hills to support them. There 
they floated, unspeakably sublime, the double peak of 
Kinchinjunga rising nearly twenty-nine thousand feet. One 
is satisfied with such a spectacle. 

There is no tinge of disappointment, but only a continu- 
ous and joyful longing after the perpetual vision. Below 
us six thousand feet the valley deepened down into mists, 
beneath which was an invisible stream. Before us and 
around us was a broad vista of colossal and darkly wooded 
hills. And yonder, forty miles away, were the pillars and 
gates of heaven. The sun kissed into dazzling radiance the 
white darlings of God, from whose faces the morning beams 
had taken the cloudy covering. And we, gazing, rapt in 
joyful astonishment, uplifted, satisfied, felt some sympathy 
with the Aryan forefathers of our race, who found in these 
snowy altitudes the inaccessible habitations of the gods. 
Here were virgin summits which no human foot had ever 
touched, on which no mortal may ever walk. But such 
visions as ours could never, after all, repaganize the world. 
God the Creator sits enthroned above all heights, and no 



■■■ 



DARJEELING, LUC KNOW, AND CAWNPORE. 365 

instructed mind hereafter can worship aught but God 
Himself. 

We passed near the summer home of the Lieutenant- 
Governor of Bengal. We saw the villas, churches, sanitari- 
ums, and schools which whiten the sides of the great hill. 
Then we climbed a few hundred feet higher to get a new view 
of the backbone of the world, the mighty mountain wall, 
ending in the frost-impearled peaks, whose whiteness the 
sun changes sometimes to flashing gold, such as the Hindu 
poet saw when he named that summit Kinchinjunga, — the 
Golden Horn. On Observatory Hill we beheld not only 
the far-ofif snows, sublime and pure, but close at hand idol- 
atry, ignoble and degrading. The bushes flared with red, 
white, and yellow rags, tied there to keep away demons, and 
papers covered with Buddhist prayers fluttered in the morn- 
ing wind. The guardian of the summit knelt before a shrine 
composed of three upright stones. There were flowers 
stuck in ah old bottle, and rice ofl"erings, and Siva's trident, 
— all telling how Buddhism and Hinduism had been mixed 
together. The Mongol caretaker gave us some of the rags 
and prayers as mementos of our visit, and showed us the 
cave where he slept. The whole scene stamped upon my 
mind a strong impression, and deepened the conviction 
that Nature, however sublime her disclosures, is unable to 
dignify worship and to purify character. Human eyes 
never witness anything grander than what was unveiled be- 
fore us ; but many a slave's cabin has been the scene of 
worship infinitely more pure and spiritual than the debasing 
and mongrel idolatries upon which the snow-peaks of the 
Himalayas look sadly down. 

At eleven o'clock we left Darjeeling for Calcutta. The 
sellers of cheap jewelry gathered about the train : the women 
offered us their enormous ear-rings and breast-ornaments, 
made of blue stone, like turquoise ; the men pressed upon us 
their broad- bladed daggers ; but I contented myself with a 
simple prayer-wheel, revolving which I could say, " Om, Mani, 
Padmi." In twenty minutes we had lost sight forever of the 



366 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

mountain deities ; but the nearer giants of the hills were 
friendly and sociable ; and a pleasant young Anglo-Indian told 
us of leopard-hunting and tea-gardens and the varied experi- 
ences of his life. In the early evening we were once more on 
the plains of Bengal. The ride to Calcutta was dusty ; but we 
were glad to be where warmth ruled again. Before eleven 
o'clock the next morning we were in Calcutta, and at 
twelve o'clock I was lecturing to three hundred students in 
Duff College, in a building a good part of which was erected 
by money which Dr. Duff raised in America. That evening 
we said good-by regretfully to the City of Colleges, and to 
the friends there, of all religions, who had treated us with 
constant kindness. That night our engine was disabled, 
and we were belated four hours, and unable to make con- 
nections at Mogul Serai for Lucknow, and did not reach 
that historic city until Sunday morning. 

Our host and hostess were Reverend and Mrs. William A. 
Mansell of the American Methodist Episcopal Church. At 
twelve o'clock I lectured in Reid College, at four o'clock 
we heard Bishop Thoburn preach to a large Indian con- 
gregation in Hindustani, and in the evening I lectured 
again in the Methodist Church. The North Indian Metho- 
dist Conference was in session, and I met many representa- 
tives of aggressive Christianity, who are now doing very 
successful work in India. 

But our readers know of Lucknow from the famous siege, 
from the heroic resistance made by British valor, from the 
names of Sir Henry Lawrence and Sir Henry Havelock, 
and perhaps from Whittier's poem of " The Pipes at Luck- 
now." Mr. Mansell informed me that the scepticism 
which has attempted to discredit the story of the sick Scot- 
tish maiden who heard before all others the pipes of Have- 
lock and the wild MacGregor's clan-call is itself now 
discredited. We visited the Residency, — a mass of flower- 
covered ruins, — within which Sir Henry Lawrence gathered 
the women and children, and around which raged the long 
and terrible battle. British valor and piety had never per- 



DARJEELING, LUCKNOW, AND CAWNPORE. 367 

haps grander illustrations than at Lucknow. The garden 
about the ruined Residency is one of the most beautifully 
kept places in the world. We saw the room where Sir Henry 
Lawrence was wounded by a shell, and near by the ceme- 
tery with his tomb, on which is the inscription, dictated by 
himself: " ilere lies Henry Lawrence, who tried to do his 
duty. May God have mercy on his soul." It is hard to 
realize that amid so much peace and beauty as our eyes 
looked upon the demons of war ever shrieked and raged. 
But Whittier's words were ringing in my ears, — 

" Day by day the Indian tiger 

Louder yelled and nearer crept, 

Round and round the jungle serpent 

Near and nearer circles swept." 

And then the sad and terrible story is told of anguished 
prayer and the fearful expectation of death, and worse than 
death, till amid the roar of Sepoy guns the sick Scotch girl, 
with her ear to the ground, faintly heard the pipes of Have- 
lock, until after delay other ears caught the notes of the 
droning pibroch, and at last other eyes saw the far-off dust- 
cloud, which changed to plaided legions ; whereupon 

" Full tenderly and blithesomely 

The pipes of rescue blew. 
Round the silver domes of Lucknow, 

Moslem mosque and pagan shrine, 
Breathed the air to Britons dearest, — 

The air of ' Auld Lang Syne.' 
O'er the cruel roll of war drums 

Rose the sweet and homelike strain, 
And the tartan clove the turban 

As the Goomtee cleaves the plain." 

The impressions of Lucknow have been deepened by this 
day at Cawnpore, — a large and flourishing city of one 
hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, but interesting 
to travellers chiefly on account of the terrible massacre of 
two hundred English women and children by the orders of 
the rebel leader, Nana, at the time of the mutiny in 1857. 



368 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

The dying and the dead were thrown into a well near the place 
of the massacre, July sixteenth, 1857. A beautiful grass- 
covered mound has been raised over the well, and is now 
crowned by a Gothic wall, with iron gates, within which is a 
beautiful figure of an angel in white marble. Her arms are 
crossed on her breast, and each hand holds a palm of victory. 
Above the archway of the iron gate are written the v/ords : 
" These are they which came out of great tribulation." 
Not far from the tomb is the tree on which the captured 
Sepoys were hanged after each one of them had been com- 
pelled to lick up a square foot of the bloody floor of the 
house where the diabolical massacre occurred. 

We drove, in company with one of the ladies of the 
Methodist mission, to the Memorial Church, and also to 
the landing-place on the Ganges where the English prison- 
ers were treacherously murdered after their surrender. One 
feels that with a great price England has gained possession 
of her Indian empire, and one can but pray that her benefi- 
cent dominion may grow wiser and more beneficent with 
the lapse of time, and that animosities like those which 
found expression at Lucknow and Cawnpore may never be 
revived. On the veranda in front of the window where I 
sit, an Indian juggler has just been performing his tricks. 
Following the advice given in Caine's " Picturesque India " 
for those who come to Cawnpore, I let it be known to 
some of the servants that a Hindu showman would be 
welcome. And an hour ago he appeared with all his appa- 
ratus tied up in a handkerchief. For us the mango-tree, 
with its fruit, sprung from a seed in a pot of sand ; for us 
the rupee fled from my hand to the centre of an orange ; 
and, by the stroke of the magician's wand, a ragged httle 
fowl, not larger than a robin, was transformed into a flock of 
ten beautiful chirping birds. The singing beggars have also 
gathered around the " Sahib " and the " Mem Sahib " this 
afternoon. An indiscreet gift of bakshish, altogether too 
large, evidently started the rumor in Cawnpore that an 
American millionaire was within the missionary compound, 



DARJEELING, LUCKNOW, AND CAWNPORE. 1^6^ 

and a great assortment of poor wretches have been hovvHng 
piteously about us. A tiny performer stood on his head 
and sang, " Daisy, Daisy, give me your promise true," 
and our hostess assured us that the rash gift of perhaps a 
dime would gather for days a throng of importunate mendi- 
cants about her veranda. 

The panorama of India, with her temples, mosques, 
cities, mountains, and various peoples, has been passing 
before me in the last few weeks, with swiftness, strange- 
ness, and splendor. Bombay, with its palaces ; Benares, 
with its ghats and temples ; Calcutta, with its colleges ; 
Darjeeling, with its background of stupendous mountains ; 
and now Lucknow and Cawnpore, with their tragic and 
heroic memories, — such are some of the elements and 
phases of the great spectacle which passes before the inner 
eye as I sit this afternoon in the home of an American 
Methodist missionary, the Reverend C. G. Conklin, here in 
Cawnpore. In the vision appear dusky and smiling faces, 
dark eyes beneath darker hair, looking out upon me in the 
twilight of memory, a memory that already grows ancient 
and poetic. Into the eyes of almost twoscore congrega- 
tions have I looked, and they have been kindly as well as 
keen with intelligence. 



24 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

DELHI, LAHORE, AMRITZAR. 

A VISIT to Delhi, often called the Rome of Asia, is an 
■^*- introduction to the grandeur and splendor of Shah 
Jehan, the builder, grandson of Akbar. We were the 
guests of the Reverend S. S. Thomas of the English Baptist 
mission, in a rented house which once belonged to Lord 
Lawrence, before he became the ruler of India. Here I 
met Dr. F. E. Clark, the leader of the Christian Endeavor 
movement, and I assisted him in Christian Endeavor meet- 
ings both in Delhi and in Lahore. 

My first lecture at St. Stephen's College in Delhi, which 
is conducted by the Cambridge mission, was on the " Par- 
liament of Religions," — a fact of some little interest for 
the reason that it was Akbar, the greatest of the Mogul 
emperors, who called together his debating-school of rival 
priests, — Hindu, Moslem, Buddhist, and Christian, — who 
contended like medieeval knights in a tournament, in no 
spirit of fellowship and fraternity, but each anxious for an 
imperial verdict in his favor. Akbar was an eclectic in 
religion and in matrimony. 

European residents have their homes outside most Indian 
cities, and in almost all our explorations of the native 
bazaars we drive a considerable distance through English 
cantonments, by the side of the bungalows inhabited by 
missionaries, civil and military officers, before we reach the 
town. Delhi, although it has a population of nearly two 
hundred thousand, and although its bazaars are rich with 
enamelled jewelry, exquisite miniatures, engraved gems, 
cashmere shawls, embroideries, potteries, and carved ivory, 



DELHI, LAHORE, AM RI TZAR. 37 1 

has the usual squalid look of Indian cities, dignified, how- 
ever, by the walls and gates of the town, by one magnificent 
and unequalled mosque, the Jumraa Musjid, and most of 
all by the imperial fort-palace, which, in its golden prime, 
before the building of barracks and its devastation by the 
English military occupants, probably was unsurpassed by 
any royal residence in the world. The red sandstone walls 
enclosing an area three thousand feet long by five hundred 
feet wide, are grandly imposing, and the gateway is indeed 
noble. Mr. Fergusson, the architect, calls it " the noblest 
entrance that belongs to any existing palace." The three 
objects of interest within the royal enclosure are the pubhc 
hall of audience, the private hall of audience, and the Pearl 
Mosque. The last of these buildings is a tiny three- 
domed marble jewel, called by one the daintiest little build- 
ing in all India, and which, as another has said, " should 
be kept in a jewel-case." 

The hall of public audience is a red sandstone structure, 
richly inlaid with marble, open on three sides, and sup- 
ported by beautiful colonnades. The Emperor's throne and 
canopy, made of white marble, and adorned with birds, 
flowers, and fruits in semi-precious stones, stood in the 
centre of the back wall of this court of audience. But the 
crowning glory of the palace was the Diwan-i-Khas, or 
private hall of audience, an open, white-marble building, 
richly adorned by inlaid work, formerly decorated in gold, 
while the ceihng was plated with silver. In the centre of 
this superb hall still stands the white marble dais on which 
was formerly placed the world-famous peacock throne, 
whose value was from twenty million to thirty million 
dollars. Shah Jehan employed the services of a French 
jeweller, Austin de Bordeaux, to construct this matchless 
royal seat, which was decorated with the figures of two im- 
mense peacocks, whose spread tails were inlaid with emer- 
alds, pearls, and various colored gems, while between them 
perched a parrot, said to have been carved out of a single 
emerald. The throne itself was six feet long, and stood on 



3/2 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

six golden legs, incrusted with all kinds of precious jewels. 
The Kohinoor was probably set at one time in Shah Jehan's 
imperial chair. No one acquainted with human cupidity 
would expect that a throne into which had been worked a 
cartload of jewels would last forever, especially in a land of 
changing military dynasties. 

As I sat on the marble dais, where all this splendor once 
gleamed, and summoned before my imagination the gor- 
geous scenes on which the proud Emperor gazed, and as I 
thought of the Persian inscription on the north and south 
arches of the hall — 

" If on earth be an Eden of bliss, 
It is this, it is this, none but this," — 

I felt anew, not only the transitoriness, but the moral 
unworthiness, of the glories which were made possible by 
the spoliation of millions and by the practical enslavement 
of a whole people. There is no reason to believe that the 
condition of the Indian nations was better in the time of 
Shah Jehan than in the time of the Queen-Empress Vic- 
toria. Indeed it must have been far worse. There are 
native patriots to-day who imagine that the " simple life of 
India " is preferable to the *' luxurious and enervating civil- 
ization " of the West. I have even been asked if I would 
like to live the " simple life of India." If by this expres- 
sion is meant the half-clothed distress, the pitiful hunger of 
the many millions who, not merely in years of famine, but 
generally, live in mud hovels without the comforts that are 
enjoyed by some of the aboriginal tribes of North America, 
I should neither like it for myself nor for the poorest and 
most abject people of Europe. 

One feels almost hopeless for a people hving in such 
material conditions. Of course, the general distress is ag- 
gravated in this year of plague and famine. Thousands, 
we are told, have died of hunger. The British government 
was altogether too slow in bringing relief, and it seems that 
it was finally almost driven to take decisive action by the 



DELHI, LAHORE, AMRITZAR. 373 

indignant clamors of those who would not disbeheve what 
their own eyes saw. I myself have seen pitiful wretches, 
lean and haggard, gathered at the stations. I have been 
told of deaths from famine by those who knew the special 
circumstances. I am credibly informed that mothers have 
offered to sell their children for one good meal. The 
camera does not he, and I have seen pictures of some of 
the famished subjects of the British Empire taken in 
December at Jubbulpore, when Lord George Hamilton 
was dissuading the English people from helping the suf- 
ferers because the " situation had not fully declared itself " ! 
But taking our thoughts from the awful contrasts of splen- 
dor and squalor, we leave the palace-fort, drive home to 
breakfast, and then go to the Baptist mission, where Dr. 
Clark is speaking to a room full of young people, mostly 
Indians, on the claims and advantages of the Christian 
Endeavor work, I was glad to add my testimony, which 
an interpreter made intelligible, to this form of Christian 
organization and effort. It was a very pretty scene, — the 
girls, with their white saris, or head coverings, seated on the 
rug-covered floor in the centre of the room, with the young 
men and teachers occupying seats around the sides. The 
peacock throne was a tawdry bit of workmanship compared 
with the human jewels gathered by the missionaries out of 
the homeless, darkened, and degraded lives of the Delhi 
population. The Jumma Musjid, which we next visited, is 
deemed the finest mosque in Asia. An elevated court 
reached by staircases, surrounded by walls, with a domed 
sanctuary on the western side, facing toward Mecca, with 
an area large enough for twenty-five thousand worshippers, 
who sometimes are gathered here, — such is the Jumma 
Musjid. It would have been an inspiring spectacle to have 
seen on some Friday in the feast of Ramidan the army of 
worshippers going through their devotions with mechanical 
precision. In this land of polytheism and idolatry it is not 
to be forgotten that there are more than fifty million stem 
monotheists ready to fight beneath the banner which carries 



374 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

the words : " There is but One God, and Mohammed is 
His Prophet." 

The next day Mem Sahib and I took the celebrated 
drive to the Kutub Minar. We stopped at the pillar of the 
Buddhist Emperor Asoka, and surveyed the great plain 
around Delhi, covered with the ruined monuments of three 
religions. I doubt if anywhere else in India, perhaps any- 
where else outside of the plain of Egyptian Thebes, are 
there such architectural desolations and splendors com- 
bined as present themselves in this drive. More than a 
dozen empires have been lost and won in battles about 
Delhi. And yet one feels in this an almost languid inter- 
est, largely because the history lies outside the main current 
of human development. At Indraput we saw the beautiful 
Killa Kona mosque, and farther on we visited three superb 
tombs, — one of them that of Humayun, the founder of the 
Mogul dynasty of Delhi and the father of Akbar. This 
was built by his widow. But the tombs of these two and 
of some other members of the family are without any in- 
scriptions. They are of beautifully carved white marble. 
At Delhi we began to realize what can be done with chis- 
elled marble. There is a screen near the hall of private 
audience in the palace-fort which is so exquisitely patterned 
and daintily cut out that it looks like marble lace. 

In our drive we also visited the tomb of Nizamu-din, a 
renowned saint. It is in a large enclosure, wherein we saw 
the tank, forty feet deep, into which, with my encourage- 
ment, six men and boys leaped from the lofty domes of the 
neighboring sepulchres. As this is a sacred well, no lives 
are ever lost by these athletic and aquatic performances. 
A saintly poet is also buried in the enclosure. There was 
a red cloth over his tomb, and the interior of his sepulchre 
was comfortably carpeted. We saw the people worshipping 
here, and heard a small orchestra and chorus play and sing 
at this shrine of poesy and piety. Here is also buried a 
daughter of Shah Jehan. But the tomb of the saint 
Nizamu-din is the finest of all. The road from Delhi to the 



DELHI, LAHORE, AAIRITZAR. 375 

Kutub Minar brings before the traveller's eyes many scores 
of Mohammedan and other tombs, most of them ruins. 
And the Kutub Minar itself — the most beautiful thing, ex- 
cepting the Taj, I have seen in India — rises up from the 
midst of a mosque and other buildings which time and 
iconoclasm have shattered. I shall not attempt to describe 
the soaring splendor and beauty of the great five-storied 
tower, rising nearly two hundred and forty feet in height. 
This tower of victory, made of red sandstone and white 
marble, has been standing nearly seven hundred years, and 
seems like a curious and graceful palm, or rather like a 
colossal jointed bamboo in colored stone. We both 
ascended it, Mem Sahib in the strong arms of coolies, and 
from the top we looked out on the ruin-covered plain clear 
to the gates of Delhi. 

Descending, we visited the ruined mosque, a strange mix- 
ture of Mussulman and Hindu architecture, together with 
an ancient iron pillar, dedicated to Vishnu, and erected, it 
is said, in the fourth century. Orders had been left at the 
Dak-bungalow for tiffin, and for the first and only time we 
enjoyed the opportunity for rest and refreshment afforded 
by an institution managed by the government of India for 
the benefit of travellers. The price of food, drinks, and 
lodging is fixed by State regulation, and everything about 
this bungalow was to us quite satisfactory. We found the 
heat rather oppressive in our eleven-mile drive homeward. 
But it was comfortable during the night, which was occu- 
pied by our railway journey northward to Lahore, the capi- 
tal of the Punjaub. Indeed, we did not reach Lahore until 
four o'clock the next afternoon. 

We find Indian railway travel, on the whole, quite com- 
fortable, partly because we have been exceedingly fortu- 
nate in always having a first-class carriage to ourselves. 
The great, broad seat is not particularly easy, like our 
luxurious chairs, for the sitter, but one can stretch him- 
self out on it in the daytime, and, with the aid of his 
blankets, make a very good bed of it at night. There is a 



376 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

lavatory attached to each carriage, and the windows and 
shutters are easily adjusted so as to secure good air or pro- 
tection from the sun. Some of the windows have brown or 
blue colored glass, to shield the eyes from excessive light. 
All the cars have " topes " on. That is, they have a double 
roof for protection from the heat. The trains are slow and 
the carriages are not very steady, so that reading and writ- 
ing are difficult. This, on the whole, has been an advantage, 
for in the long railway journeys 1 have had my only rest 
from the excitement and weariness of constant lecturing, 
visiting, correspondence, and sight-seeing. The first-class 
cars are painted white. 

The expense of first-class travelling is, on some lines, 
eight times that of third-class travelling. What has sur- 
prised me as much as anything in India is that in this 
impoverished land the third-class cars are almost always 
crowded with natives. When we come to a station, they 
swarm out and fill their brass bowls with water and buy the 
sweetmeats, cakes, and condiments so dear to the Indian 
palate. Our meals are often good, though I have grown a 
little tired of rice and curry. The meats in India are in- 
different, but the made dishes are often excellent, and one 
may purchase soda-water for two annas a bottle. Breakfast 
and tiffin cost one and a half rupees ; dinner, two rupees. 

It was January fourteenth when we arrived in Lahore. 
On the morning of that day we ran into a fine rain, and 
thanked God for this inestimable mercy. People truly 
said, " It rained gold ! " A similar rain over all India 
we were told would almost put an end to the famine by 
insuring the next crop, and thus lowering the price of food. 
As our train passed through Lodiana, from which our whole 
mission is named, I thought of Dr. E. M. Wherry, who had 
lived here for years, and whose name, as we found, is greatly 
loved and honored throughout the mission. At the Lahore 
station we were met by the Reverend Dr. J. C. R. Ewing, Prin- 
cipal of Forman Christian College. His family are now in 
America, and we were taken to the delightful home, which 



DELHI, LAHORE, AMRITZAR. 2>77 

Dr. Ewing now makes his own, of the Reverend and Mrs. 
H.D. Griswold. Mr. Griswold, a Sanscrit and Urdu scholar, 
teaches the Scriptures and philosophy in Forman College, 
and is highly esteemed as one of our ablest and most schol- 
arly men. At his home during our five days in Lahore we 
enjoyed not only the company of Dr. Ewing, but also that 
of the Reverend and Mrs. Arthur H. Ewing of the Christian 
Boys' High School in Lodiana, — a school with an enrolment 
of more than a hundred students, that is doing important 
work, and among other things is preparing boys for the col- 
lege in Lahore. Mr. Ewing edits the Urdu paper of the 
Mission. I may also add that Mr. Griswold is the acting 
pastor of the native church in Lahore, and that he is now 
preparing a pamphlet in which he exposes the errors of the 
Arya Somaj, who are very active in the Punjaub and even 
bitter in their opposition to Christianity. We found Dr. 
Clark at the Griswolds', and were able shortly after our 
arrival to attend the closing meeting of the Christian En- 
deavor Convention which for two days he had been hold- 
ing. I wish that all my Christian Endeavor readers could 
have seen what we saw, and heard what we heard from Dr. 
Clark at this meeting. Delegates had come from various 
societies in the Punjaub. The singing was spirited and 
spiritual. After I had given an address Dr. Clark made 
one of his tender and searching speeches, leading up to the 
Consecration Meeting which was to close the convention. 
As the names of the different societies were called, they rose, 
in numbers ranging from one to half a score, and expressed 
their feelings and purposes, usually in Scripture selections. 
I was greatly moved when I saw and heard the testimony 
given by the Reverend N, P. Das, a beautiful man and a sweet 
Christian soul, now pastor of the Lodiana Church, the old- 
est of the Presbyterian churches in India. Not only did I 
come to have a new appreciation of the service of the Chris- 
tian Endeavor Society, but I felt also, and as never before, 
the moral sublimity of that mission work whose fruits are 
such earnest and loving confessors of Christ as rose in this 



3/8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

convention and renewed their consecration. Things seen 
are greater than things heard, and I sometimes feel that 
with all my reading and with all my familiarity with the tes- 
timony of missionaries, I never before had any adequate 
understanding of what it means, for earth and heaven, for 
time and eternity, to bring one soul to the light of Christ. 

These days in Lahore in the company of Dr. Ewing and 
his friends were almost like getting back to America. The 
close and delightful fellowships with such Americans with 
whom we had the joy of those who think and feel alike con- 
cerning the things of the Kingdom of God will be gratefully 
cherished. Dr. Ewing has a great name in India as a foremost 
Christian educator, beloved by missionaries of all churches 
and highly respected by non-Christians. A company of 
Brahmos who called last Sunday, speaking of Dr. Ewing's 
approaching visit to America, said to me, " Please do not 
keep him there one day longer than is absolutely necessary." 
We heard much of Dr. Ewing before our arrival in Lahore, 
and ever since our departure we have heard men sound his 
praises. We have every reason to be thankful for the high 
character and sympathetic wisdom of the American mission- 
aries in India. The morning after my arrival I lectured to 
the students of Forman Christian College, one of the finest 
bodies of young men that I have seen, and a larger com- 
pany of students, I am told, than is found in the Government 
College at Lahore. The Punjaubis are physically more stal- 
wart than the Bengalis. The new college building was the 
gift of Miss Kennedy of New York. What a glorious his- 
tory is associated with the names of Forman and Newton 
here in Northern India ! We had the pleasure of meeting 
one of the sons of Dr. Newton and the widow of Dr. For- 
man, and also quite a number of the missionary ladies who 
had come to Lahore to attend the convention and the lec- 
tures. Many will remember what reverence was paid by 
all classes of the Lahore community, Hindu, Mohammedan, 
and Sikh, when Dr. Forman died, and the story is told of 
the sister of an Anglican Bishop who, coming to the city 



DELHI, LAHORE, AMRITZAR. 379 

and making a call upon a leading non-Christian family, 
thought that it would make a favorable impression to have 
it known that she was the sister of the Bishop. She was 
surprised to receive this reply, " We are not acquainted 
with the Bishop, but if you are related to Dr. Forman we 
are happy to make your acquaintance ! " The Church Mis- 
sionary Society came to Lahore at the invitation of the 
American Presbyterians, and as one of the Church mis- 
sionaries was speaking to some of the natives about the 
claims of Christianity, they said : " We do not intend to 
become Christians; but if we do we want to be- Christians 
of Dr. Forman's kind ! " 

Most of the inhabitants of Lahore are Mussulmans. 
There are more than eighty thousand of these disciples of 
Islam, while the Hindus number about fifty-four thousand 
and the Sikhs five thousand. Among the two hundred and 
ninety-eight students enrolled in Forman College, thirty- 
eight are Christians, sixteen are Sikhs, while the Hindus 
considerably outnumber the Mohammedans. Such colleges 
as this are, in my judgment, of essential importance in the 
evangelization of India, although the number of conversions 
and baptisms in college life may be few. Such is the power 
of prejudice, bigotry, and caste that if even a small number 
of these college men were baptized in one year, such an 
event would produce violent agitation, " would nearly empty 
the class-rooms, and the institution would for a time be 
shunned as a pestilence-haunted place." This fact shows 
the supreme importance of the Christian training of boys in 
the preparatory schools. But the college itself is a prepara- 
tory school for the sure-coming exodus of a host from the 
Egypt of Hinduism and Islam. The colleges of India have 
made possible such English-speaking missions as those 
of President Seelye, Joseph Cook, Dr. Pentecost, John 
McNeill, the Y. M. C. A. and Student Volunteer Move- 
ments, and the India Lectureship. Forman College ranks 
first in the Punjaub in the success of its students in passing 
the university examinations. 



380 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

I am assured by Dr. Evving that the spirit in which for 
more than forty years the Presbyterian work has been carried 
on here has been that of the ParUaraent of Rehgions, — that 
is, the spirit of Christian courtesy. I was glad to meet in 
Lahore the son of one of my Christian correspondents, the 
Honorable Maya Das, and I was sorry that another of these 
correspondents, the Pundit Shiv Narain, the founder of the 
Deva Dharm Somaj, did not present himself. He has re- 
lapsed into Hinduism. We had the pleasure, however, of 
meeting Mr. B. B. Nagarkar, of Bombay, one of the Brahmo 
delegates to Chicago, who seconded, in a bright and sym- 
pathetic speech, the vote of thanks given at my closing 
lecture. One of our happiest experiences in India was an 
hour spent at our Boys' School known as the Rang Mahal, 
intimately associated with the name of Dr. Forman and now 
greatly needing a new building. It was the Prize Distribu- 
tion day, and Mrs. Barrows distributed to the winners perhaps 
a hundred volumes, among which were Webster's Diction- 
aries, Atlases, well-bound English Bibles, and books of good 
poetry. The three hundred and fifty boys, most of whom 
sat upon the ground in the open court, were attired in 
costumes and decked with turbans of all colors, so that they 
looked like a flower-garden. It was as bright and happy 
looking a company of children and youth as I ever saw to- 
gether. My young friends on the other side of the sea 
would have been greatly interested in the songs and recita- 
tions which we heard in English, Sanscrit, Urdu, Punjabi, 
and Persian. What American could listen unmoved to 
these Punjabi boys rendering a dialogue from William Tell 
about freedom from oppression, or reciting the second 
chapter of Matthew, the Twenty-third Psalm, the " Burial 
of Sir John Moore," Phillips Brooks's "O Little Town 
of Bethlehem," and Longfellow's " Psalm of Life " ! At 
this High School I met an old native Christian who 
told me with pride that he was one of Dr. Forman's first 
scholars. 

We visited the Forman Memorial Chapel, a new building 



DELHI, LAHORE, AMRITZAR. 38 1 

on a busy street, where the gospel is daily proclaimed, and 
Sunday morning we heard the venerable Reverend Mr. Chat- 
terjee, who will be remembered as having visited our 
churches in America, preach in the vernacular to a large audi- 
ence of native Christians and others. We enjoyed the 
service, although I understood but two words, " civilization " 
and " consecration." I gave in Lahore four of the Indian 
lectures, — three in the Town Hall and one, Sunday evening, 
in the Presbyterian Church. Dr. Sime, who is at the head 
of the Department of Public Instruction in the Punjaub and 
is himself an earnest Christian, presided at the first of the 
Town Hall lectures ; the Bishop of Lahore, a scholarly man 
and a contributor to the Presbyterian school-work, presided 
at the second ; Colonel Robinson, the English Commis- 
sioner, took the chair at the third. The arrangements made 
for these lectures were admirable ; and the audiences, com- 
posed mostly of thoughtful Hindus and Moslems, listened 
with patient attention to my earnest argument for the world- 
victory of Christianity. The final vote of thanks was moved 
by Justice Chatterjee, perhaps the leading Hindu of Lahore. 
I regard the opportunity given me in the Punjaub capital as 
one of the privileges of my life. 

Yesterday we turned our faces southward, spending most 
of the day in the city of Amritsar, where we were entertained 
by Dr. and Mrs. H. M. Clark of the Church Missionary 
Society. This sacred city of the Sikh nation, and one of 
the chief commercial portals from India into Central Asia, 
has a population of more than one hundred and fifty thou- 
sand, and is the wealthiest city in the Punjaub. The 
Golden Temple, which rises from the sacred tank in the 
centre of the city, is the main attraction in Amritsar, except 
to those who find one of the chief joys of fife in the exami- 
nation and purchase of beautiful carpets. I confessed to 
extreme weariness, and inquired of Dr. Clark if it would 
take much time to see the Golden Temple. He replied 
that it would take three days to see it thoroughly. I told 
him that I would give one hour. He replied that it was an 



382 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

American who said, " I guess we '11 do the Alps to-day, and 
I reckon we '11 do the Apennines to-morrow ! " 

The Golden Temple is well worth seeing. It is tiny, but 
beautifully situated in a little lake, the Pool of Immortality, 
which gives to it its sacredness. The domes are apparently 
all of gold, and this beautiful shrine is exquisite as it gleams 
both above and from the water. It is approached by a 
marble pavement, and inside it is elaborately decorated. 
This is the temple most revered by the Sikhs, a religious 
sect, somewhat military in character, which rose in the 
fifteenth century, monotheistic, with a high and pure 
morality. Its sacred scripture is the Granth, which forbids 
idolatry. But such are the tendencies here to idolatrous 
superstition that a great copy of the Sikh bible is worshipped 
in the Golden Temple. We saw the high-priest sitting be- 
hind the covered book, while hundreds of people streamed 
into the beautiful place and cast before it their offerings of 
rice, flowers, and shell money. So far as I know, this is the 
only place in the world where literal bibliolatry can be seen. 
In another part of the temple we witnessed a strange spectacle. 
Relays of men were reading the Sikh bible through aloud. 
They were under contract to do it, and the reading did not 
cease day or night. All this was for the purpose of stop- 
ping the plague in Bombay. After a delightful lunch party 
at Dr. Clark's, a visit to the carpet factory on the part of 
Mem Sahib, where she saw the autographs of the Czarowitz, 
Prince Albert Victor, and other distinguished visitors, came 
the lecture in the City Theatre, and then a long and re- 
freshing night ride on the way to this pearl of Indian cities, 
Agra, where we are the guests of the Reverend J. P. 
Haythornthwaite of the Church Missionary Society, Princi- 
pal of St. John's College. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

AGRA AND THE TAJ MAHAL. 

A GRA is the crown of Asiatic cities, and the Pearl 
■^~^ Mosque and the Taj Mahal are the fairest jewels in 
this diadem. Three names shine in Agra, — Akbar, greatest 
and wisest of Mogul emperors, the builder of the Fort ; Shah 
Jehan, his grandson, the builder of the Pearl Mosque and 
of the Taj Mahal ; and Mumtaz-i Mahal, the Chosen of 
the Palace, the Emperor's wife, for whom he built the most 
beautiful of all sepulchres. 

Akbar is a name great and pure enough to achieve and 
hold world-wide reverence. He was intrusted with a 
most difficult task, that of wisely and successfully governing 
an empire composed of different races and religions. 
Himself a Moslem, a disciple of the Koran which enjoins 
the extermination of infidels, he was better and more merci- 
ful than his own scriptures, and his name has become the 
synonym of religious toleration. In the famous Congress 
of the Creeds, which he assembled at his palace in Fateh- 
pur-Sikri, were gathered representatives of the leading re- 
ligions of Asia, although it is still a matter of historical dispute 
whether or not Buddhists were present. But the spirit of 
Akbar was more tolerant than that of the priests and moul- 
vies who contended before him. The Jesuit "padres" 
who had made a forty-three days' journey from Goa on 
the West Coast in response to the invitation of the Em- 
peror, appear to have employed the language of theological 
acrimony ; for the report has come down to us that they 
applied to Mohammed the name and attributes of the devil. 
Still these clever men made a great impression upon Akbar, 



384 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

for he intrusted to them the instruction of his second son, 
Mourad, and the young prince used to begin his lessons 
with the words " O Thou whose names are Jesus and 
Christ." Akbar chose his wives from women of various 
faiths, and permitted them to worship each in her own way. 
Altliougli his scheme of a practical religious eclecticism 
was a failure, his vision, which Tennyson has embodied in 
crystal poetry, was more than a dream. The world rever- 
ences him who cherished it, and surely some evidences of 
truth and wisdom were not wanting to it. If Comparative 
Theology should ever build a temple, Akbar's would be a 
chief figure within it. 

Yesterday we stood by the alabaster slab in Akbar's 
magnificent tomb on which are written the ninety-nine 
names of God. Many-sided are the aspects of the Divine 
Nature, and many are the gates of the palace of darkness 
out of which men have walked into the light of the Eternal. 
At Secundra, six miles from Agra, is the massive red-sand- 
stone, pagoda-like structure, inlaid with white marble, in 
whose gloomy vault rests the body of the great Emperor. 
But on the highest platform, under the blue sky, is the 
beautiful cloister of lustrous marble, cut into lattice-work, 
in the centre of which is the cenotaph on which in Persian 
are inscribed the words " God is Greatest," " May His 
Glory Shine." Near by is a marble pillar, formerly cov- 
ered with gold, which once held the Kohinoor, most 
precious of all diamonds. The true Kohinoor, the Moun- 
tain of Light, in the world of religion, is genuine toleration ; 
and this has been removed from Moslem hands, and gleams 
in the treasury of the Empress-Queen, whose dominion has 
been called " the hugest outstanding Parliament of Re- 
ligions in the world." As I stood, in the early morning of 
this January day, looking out on the world of Indian life 
and the green fresh beauty of the Indian landscape, from 
the marble balcony of the Emperor's tomb, I could but 
remember how the Emperor's name was honored by those 
that, a few years before, had gathered from all the world in 



AGRA AND THE TAJ MAHAL. 385 

an American city whose foundations were not laid till 
more than two centuries after Akbar had ended his 
weary life. 

Inside the magnificent red wall of the Agra Fort we saw 
what is left of the palaces and mosques of the Mogul rulers. 
These buildings are now jostled by English barracks, and 
some of them are sadly mutilated by cannon-balls ; but they 
surpass by far anything that we have yet seen of Moham- 
medan architecture. The audience halls; the suites of 
palatial rooms; the latticed balconies, with their superb 
views over the Jumna ; the balcony from which Shah Tehan, 
in the years when he was the State prisoner of his own son 
Aurangzeb, used to gaze along the river at his wife's beauti- 
ful tomb, the Taj Mahal ; and above all, that purest and 
most perfect of Moslem shrines, the Moti-Musjib, or Pearl 
Mosque, with its cloistered court and three white airy 
domes, — who that has seen all this can forget the day and 
the hour when such visions of white splendor became a part 
of his hfe? 

But what I have written of tomb and mosque has been 
put down mostly because of the hesitation which I feel in 
approaching the Incomparable, the Immortal — I will not 
call it temple or sepulchre — whose stately dome of pearl 
haunts the life of all those who have gazed upon it in 
moonlight or sunlight or starlight, and permitted its tender 
and pathetic magic to penetrate and captivate their souls. 
I did not feel the impatience which many travellers have 
recorded to see, in close proximity, the palace-crown of all 
the marble structures now borne on the bosom of the 
earth. My feeling was rather one of awe, mingled with a 
deep loving joy that such a marriage with the spirit of love 
and beauty was now awaiting me. I felt like lingering in 
the halls of anticipation, like asking the driver not to hasten 
over the moonlit road which led us to the great gateway of 
the garden-court in whose centre the Taj stands. I was 
glad to pause and to look with wondering admiration at 
this magnificent portal of red sandstone, surmounted by 

25 



386 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

marble cupolas and decorated with sacred sentences from 
the Koran. But when at last the gate was entered and 
the eyes looked up the long cypress-shaded avenue to the 
white and stately mausoleum, bordered with gardens and 
streams and fountains, lifting its bubble of a dome into the 
moonlit heavens, then and there the soul's marriage with 
the spirit of the beautiful was consummated in a deep of 
holy ecstasy. Slowly, almost reluctantly, we walked the 
long shaded path leading toward the white marvel, whose 
four sentinel towers appeared to guard it joyously like 
slender white-robed maidens standing about a princess- 
bride. We sat down by the central fountain to look at the 
great platform of marble, and the stately portal which rose 
above it, and the half-shadowed recesses on either side, and 
the two tiny cupolas and slender minarets above, till the 
vision ended in the swelling and soaring white dream of a 
dome which seems almost to lift the whole marvellous fabric 
into the skies. I was prepared by the pictures and by 
the words of travellers, historians, and poets, for some- 
thing supremely beautiful which might be likened to a 
cut and polished jewel ; but I was not prepared to find 
this jewel of heroic proportions, its loveHness expanded 
into majesty, its grace wedded to magnificence. What 
we saw was a crown, but it was the crown of Asia and 
of the world ; it was the greatest and fairest expression of 
royal love, wielding unlimited wealth and power, ever 
inscribed on the checkered page of history. The waters 
glassed and reflected the stately and pearly shrine ; the 
pointed cypress-trees and the gloomier and darker foliage 
beyond were not only the artistic setting of the mighty 
jewel, but by contrast deepened its splendor, while their 
shadows seemed sympathetic with that royal grief with 
which our hearts were instinctively in accord. Then the 
softness and stillness and brightness of the moonlit night 
made an atmosphere bathing everything and filling our own 
souls with thoughts and dreams, with memories and hopes, 
beautifying and sanctifying all life. 



AGRA AND THE TAJ MAHAL. 387 

Finally, we mounted the marble platform, where an army 
might stand. Oh, what artists these Moslem architects and 
their Christian assistant proved themselves to be ! How 
they prepare the eyes and the heart for the sacred beauty 
and the more sacred love which they have revealed or 
memorialized ! Where we now stand we can see that 
there are two wings to the marble mausoleum, one of which 
is a mosque, far enough removed to appear only sacred 
guardians of the holier shrine. As we walk about the 
platform, we repeat with so many before us, " The work of 
Titans," and finally, drawing closer to the Palace Crown, 
we exclaim, " The work of jewellers." No other building 
in the world has such an ornamentation of precious stones, 
their colored beauties bringing out the wisdom of sacred 
Persian texts around the majestic portals, and elsewhere 
in the spandrels and angles and screens and tombs within, 
spreading out into an infinite wealth of scrolls and wreaths 
and arabesques of jasmine, columbine, poppy, and carna- 
tion, filling our eyes and souls with the joy and wonder of 
seeing all most beautiful things here lavished in fadeless 
embroidery. The delicate bas-relief ornamentation of 
white marble found everywhere satisfies and delights the 
lover of beautiful forms. But when, standing beneath the 
central dome by the tombs of the Emperor and the Em- 
peror's wife, with the soft light coming in only through the 
exquisite screens of marble, one gazes in bewildered joy at 
this wealth of jewelled ornamentation, with its richness of 
abiding colors ; he feels that art and love and faith have 
here reached the climax of beautiful expression. It was the 
light of torches which revealed to us the interior on our 
first visit, when the full moon was shining on the dome 
above ; but the next morning the jewelled splendors of the 
Taj seemed loveher still in the sunlight. Side by side in the 
vault below, on the level of the ground, are the real but 
plainer tombs of Shah Jehan and Mumtaz-i-Mahal. But 
immediately above them, in the apartment which rises into 
the matchless dome, are the jewelled sepulchres surrounded 



388 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE, 

by the exquisite trellis-work, where one lingers and lingers, 
loath to depart. And yet, as he walks once more on the 
spacious platform in moonlight or sunlight, looking up at 
dome or slender sentinel towers or down upon the blue 
sliding waters of the Jumna, he feels himself to be in a world 
of beauty not less exquisitely beautiful than that within. 

He who has seen the wonders of the world may contrast 
the Taj Mahal, especially after he has gone away from it, 
with the florid gorgeousness of St. Peter's ; he may feel a 
certain deeper intellectual sympathy with the world of 
thought and emotion brought before him by King's Chapel 
in Cambridge and the ivy-mantled towers of Oxford ; he 
may feel his soul drawn nearer to God in mighty aspiration 
and in memory of the world's Christian past, in the 
columned aisles of the Cologne Cathedral ; and standing 
amid the statues and sculptured flower-garden on the roof 
of " many-spired Milan," beholding the sunlight breaking 
through the clouds on the snowy peaks of St. Gothard, 
he may have a keener sense of the grandeur of man and 
the greatness of God ; but nowhere else so fully as in the 
Taj Mahal have I had such a sober certainty of the wak- 
ing bliss of beauty and of human love embodied in archi- 
tecture. Standing beneath the dome, Moslem lips breathed 
forth the name of Allah, and melodious echoes, softening 
and dying away, brought back to our ears the sacred syl- 
lables. The Palace Crown of Asia is not out of harmony 
with the spirit which ascribes all glory to Heaven. " Earth 
with her ten thousand voices praises God." 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 

WE found Jeypore, which we reached after a ten hours' 
ride from Agra, the most interesting, in certain re- 
spects at least, of all Indian cities. The Reverend Mr. Mac- 
alister, of the United Presbyterian Mission of Scotland, was 
our courteous and delightful host, and he gave me a day 
of sight-seeing unembarrassed by lectures. It was early in 
the morning when we had our first drive through the high- 
walled and rosy city, a town of a hundred and fifty thousand 
inhabitants, surrounded by rugged and fort-crowned hills, 
and the capital of a prosperous Native State with a popula- 
tion of two and a half millions. The Maharajah who gov- 
erns this community intrusts nearly all the affairs of state 
to his prime minister, a very enlightened man who called 
on us in the afternoon. I found him a person of com- 
manding mind and liberal spirit. He was graduated from 
Duff College, Calcutta, and although himself a nominal 
Hindu, he gladly owns his large obligations to the Christian 
missionaries. Fully one-half of the hour's conversation 
which we had together was devoted to Shakespeare, of 
whom this Indian statesman has been a profound student. 

Jeypore was to us the greatest sensation since Benares. 
It is a city of pink houses and broad streets where ele- 
phants, monkeys, cows, and tens of thousands of pigeons 
are equally at home. Such costumes, with more than the 
colors of the rainbow, apparently devised by some Hindu 
Turner in an hour of madness, I have never seen elsewhere. 
Here is a city into which European life seems scarcely 
to have intruded, and which is apparently happier and 



390 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

more prosperous than most Indian cities. In reality, how- 
ever, Western civihzation has done a large work beneath 
these Oriental ways and forms, for Jeypore is lighted by 
gas, and rejoieeb in an immense Public Garden, laid out 
by European skill ; in a great college, which is affiliated with 
the University of Calcutta ; in a hospital ; a school of art ; 
and in an almost magnificent museum, Albert Hall, designed 
and built by Colonel Jacobs, the presiding genius and good 
angel of Jeypore. But driving by the fantastic Hall of the 
Winds, or the tall tower which overlooks the city, or wan- 
dering through the Maharajah's palace and pleasure-ground 
within which his Highness employs and feeds ten thou- 
sand attendants ; inspecting and buying the beautiful 
enamel-work done in the bazaars ; taking a peep at the 
splendid tigers, or watching the horrible alligators snatching 
great pieces of meat in the immense royal tanks ; behold- 
ing the monkeys scampering along the houses, or even 
gazing at the curious and colossal instruments in Jey Sing's 
Astronomical Observatory ; and above all, looking at the 
motley and many-colored procession of people, moving 
along the pink streets, which in color and material appear 
like the scenery of some gorgeous and fantastic stage, — one 
loses sight of everything Occidental, and says in his heart, 
" This is the East, the quintessence of all brilliant and 
bewildering Orientalism." 

The old capital and the old palace are at Amber, five 
miles from Jeypore, picturesquely situated at the entrance 
of a steep mountain gorge, in the vicinity of a lovely lake. 
Every traveller is eager to visit this now deserted city, in- 
habited only by a few mendicants and many monkeys. 
We had expected to ride an elephant up the steep which 
leads to the old palace : but a plague had broken out in the 
Maharajah's stables, and seventeen of his elephants had 
died, while the rest had been sent into the country. Thus, 
instead of a gigantic quadruped, a " transport " was sent to 
carry us to the empty but still very impressive palace, where 
we arrived too late to see, in a small temple, the daily kill- 



JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 391 

ing of the goat as a sacrifice to Kali. The Rajput artists, 
for we are now in Rajputana, knew how to build fine 
courts, audience-cliambers, stairways, and to decorate pal- 
aces with glittering magnificence. Within the great de- 
serted rooms we saw the mica decorations, inlaid in plaster, 
making thousands of tiny mirrors, so that when I waved my 
arms I surpassed the thousand-handed deities of the East. 
Sir Edwin Arnold has employed all the wealth of his colored 
and brilliant words to describe Jeypore and Amber ; and 
although his praise may be extravagant, his vivid word- 
pictures make no such enduring impression on the mind 
of the reader as even a day's visit makes on the memory 
of the traveller. 

We left Jeypore early in the evening, and arrived at 
Ajmere at the sleepy hour of two in the morning. Dr. 
Husband was on the veranda of his home to meet us, how- 
ever, and we soon had a second sleep, from which we rose 
to a quiet and delightful Sunday in an ancient and beauti- 
ful city. About one-third of its population is Mussulman 
and two-thirds are Hindu. The Moslem architecture here 
is said to be unsurpassed in delicacy and beauty. But ray 
day was given to rest, except that I lectured in the after- 
noon to one of the best audiences of non-Christians that I 
have thus far met. Later, too, I preached in the Presby- 
terian Church. All this, however, was consistent with the 
ideas of a restful day which I have come to cherish in 
India. 

It is a long ride from Ajmere to Indore, — that is, long 
in time. The three hundred miles were accomplished in 
twenty hours ! The trains in Rajputana are deliberate. 
We reached Indore at about six in the morning, and found 
there, waiting to welcome us, the Reverend Mr. Wilkie and 
the Reverend Mr. Ledinghara of the Canadian Presbyterian 
mission, two native Christians, several Brahmos, and a car- 
riage with men in red and green livery, sent by his Highness 
the Maharajah of Indore. This carriage was at our disposal 
during the day, and I felt that it gave me an importance not 



392 



A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 



altogether clerical. After " chota hazri " we drove with our 
missionary friends through the interesting capital of this 
Native State, saw the Maharajah's gardens, visited a section 
of the town where eifective mission work is carried on in a 
'' mahalla," or court given up to poor people who work in 
leather, went out into tlie country, which is largely planted 
with poppy, and gained a deal of information from Mr. 
Wilkie, who is one of the most energetic missionaries I 
ever have seen. 

Indore is a centre of the opium trade and a quantity 
which sells here for twenty-eight rupees sells in Bombay for 
six hundred rupees. The government puts a fairly heavy 
tax on it ! It is generally beUeved that the use of opium 
as well as the use of intoxicating drinks is growing in India. 
The government has these things in its own hands, and is 
pursuing, as many believe, a wrong system. It sells the 
privilege of making and retailing intoxicants. A privilege 
which once cost only fifteen thousand rupees in Indore 
finds a buyer now, according to Mr. Wilkie, at more than 
one hundred thousand rupees. Is not this of itself ample 
evidence that the use of alcoholic hquors is gaining ground ? 
India, beyond most nations, has known the destructiveness 
of war, the destructiveness of plague, and the destructive- 
ness of famine. If, according to Mr. Gladstone, intemper- 
ance has wrought for mankind more woe than war, pestilence, 
and famine combined, what damage will drunkenness not 
work upon the physically weak races of India if the Hindus 
ever become a drunken people ! Some of these considera- 
tions Mr. Caine has been urging upon the government of 
India in his lectures during the last winter. 

We visited the girls' boarding-school and the hospital 
belonging to the Canadian Presbyterian Mission, after driv- 
ing through a lovely park, where I saw for the first time the 
bo-tree, the Ficus Indicus, under which Buddha received 
his enlightenment at Gaya. The Canadian flag waved above 
the college, where in the afternoon I delivered my lecture 
in one of the most beautiful halls I have seen in India. 



Hi 



JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 393 

Mr. Wilkie was greatly pleased to bring together in the 
audience most of the leading non-Christians of the city. 
Earlier in the afternoon we had a reception, given by the 
Brahmos, at their mandir, or place of worship. I was sur- 
prised to see some of the Brahmo ladies wearing nose-rings, 
which are discarded by Christians in North India, and, so 
far as I have seen elsewhere, by Brahmos also. Just before 
the lecture we made a call by invitation upon the Mahara- 
jah, the absolute ruler of more than a million people, with 
a military establishment of about nine thousand troops and 
with revenues amounting to about four million dollars. He 
is a large man physically, much too large for his own com- 
fort, and he received us barefooted, — a mark of respect. 
He was dressed in a long white silk robe, with a white cap. 
He sat in a chair, and proceeded to ask me questions 
regarding America and especially Chicago. He had partic- 
ularly stipulated that I should not speak to him of religion. 
He was interested in inquiring about the railroad riots of 
1895, which he thought a symptom of great weakness in 
our civilization. He was astonished to learn of the wages 
received by workmen of different classes in America. He 
inquired about Mr. McKinley's policy, and evidently was 
surprised when I told him that the average wealth in 
America was greater than that in England, while that in 
England v/as thirty times that in India. He spoke of 
Canada, and when I expressed a wish for continental union 
in America, he said : " I hope that the country will then 
all of it come under the rule of good Queen Victoria." 
A servant brought us betel leaf filled with spices and 
covered with silver paper. This was the signal for our 
departure. 

I have reserved for the last the unique and most inter- 
esting experience of the day. At tifhn-time the Maharajah 
sent to our temporary home a colossal elephant, so that we 
might enjoy a ride. He was almost as tall as Jumbo and 
thicker set. He had a back on which a Hindu temple 
easily could have been carried. After photographing him, 



394 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

we mounted him, four of us. His elephantine majesty, 
obedient to the stroke of the driver's iron rod, knelt down, 
and we climbed by a ladder to seats in the howdah. When 
he rose to his feet, his riders thought for a moment that my 
lecture tour in India was about to end ! The tower seemed 
on the point of tipping over. Things came to rights, how- 
ever, and our lofty perch was pronounced a delightful seat, 
and, as the elephant-puncher put in his work behind, and 
the great beast trotted down the road, we regarded our 
exaltation and locomotion with princely self-complacency. 
For daily comfort and convenience, however, give me, in 
preference to an Indore elephant, an out-door donkey. 

The Reverend Robert A. Hume, D.D., of Ahmednagar, 
has made all the arrangements for my India pilgrimage, 
answering correspondents, accepting or declining invita- 
tions, and furnishing an exact itinerary down to the minute 
of our arrival and departure in the case of every city. He 
is now called " Major Pond." On leaving Indore we 
looked forward with great pleasure to meeting the kindly 
Major. He had promised us two days of rest in his home. 
We arrived at two o'clock in the morning, and, finding the 
American mail awaiting us, closed our eyes in sleep about 
four. For three successive mornings the Major's sweet voice 
awakened us at half-past six. I faithfully submitted myself to 
the detailed programme which he had arranged, and in the 
two and a half days of our sojourn in his delightful home, 
under his restful superintendence, I made six addresses, 
enjoyed three receptions, visited four schools, went to a 
native concert, made several calls, attended service in a 
village church six miles away, there baptizing two native 
converts, visited the famine-relief works seven miles from 
Ahmednagar, answered some correspondents, and received 
many friendly visitors. As the heat had destroyed my 
appetite, I went through these days of rest on the strength 
of Indian tea. 

Dr. Hume has one of the most successful missions we have 
seen in India. He took especial pains to have me see all 



^■1 



JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 395 

sides of his work, and to call on several Christian families 
and even at the home of a Hindu Brahman gentleman. 
This man, a lawyer, accompanied us through the different 
rooms of his house. We saw his shrine, the apartments of 
the women, which we did not enter, his store of grain for 
the year, the children's play-room, and his library, where I 
discovered on the walls three framed pictures, all exactly 
alike, of Charles Bradlaugh ! In this room were several of 
his clients ; and before we separated, at Dr. Hume's sugges- 
tion and with the Brahman's kind permission, I led the com- 
pany in prayer, all standing. One afternoon while I was 
visiting the Normal School and the Industrial School, Mrs. 
Barrows addressed the Christian women of the town, a church 
full of them. She complained that although she spoke in 
loud, clear tones, the women paid her languid attention, 
compared with what was given to Miss Emily Bissell, her 
interpreter ! One morning we drove out with several mis- 
sionaries, one of them on a bicycle, seven miles into the 
country, to Hingangaw. The Christians of the village, know- 
hig of our approach, came out to meet us with strange music 
of horns and native drums, escorting us to the schoolhouse, 
which is also the village church. And here I had one of 
the chief privileges of my life. I was permitted to baptize 
two young men, recent converts to the gospel. Never 
before have I been so deeply moved at such a service. It 
seemed to me that he who stooped to the lowliness of Beth- 
lehem and Nazareth was almost sensibly present in this little 
meeting-house, which the dark hands of humble people had 
decorated with fruits and wild flowers, out of regard to one 
of Christ's ministers who had come to them from the other 
side of the world. 

On leaving Ahmednagar, with its Sabbath quiet and 
repose, we began our journey to Poona. The awful plague 
not only closed Bombay to my lectures, but closed the 
schools and colleges and half the houses of that fated city. 
At Poona we were the guests of the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. 
Small, of the Free Church of Scotland Mission, Principal 



396 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Mackichan of Wilson College, Bombay, was also a guest in 
the same beautiful home, and 1 shall never forget the stirring 
address which he made at the close of my last lecture. The 
full course of my lectures was given here instead of in ' 
Bombay, and, as the intellectual capital of Western India 
and as a great centre of Brahmanic influence and of the 
most intense Hindu spirit, Poona was deemed hardly 
second even to Bombay in importance. It would require a 
whole chapter to give even a meagre account of our expe- 
riences and various doings in Poona, to speak of the recep- 
tions accorded by Hindus, Brahraos, missionaries, and the 
native Christian community ; to tell of the Christian 
workers whom we came to know, among whom was Mr. 
Wilder of the Students' Volunteer Movement; and to 
describe a few of the interesting natives who came to 
talk over their religious convictions. Four of my lectures 
were given in the theatre right in the midst of the plague- 
smitten portion of the city, for Poona, too, is suffering 
from the pestilence that walketh in darkness and smiteth 
also at noonday. In driving to the theatre in the early 
evening we passed by the fires, burning disinfectants, and 
saw houses unroofed where death had been. Only a hand- 
ful of missionaries ventured to leave the cantonment or 
pleasant European quarter outside of the town, but an 
average of five hundred English-speaking Hindus were 
present at each address. Only those who had received a 
ticket were admitted, and an earnest effort was made to 
keep out the " Young Poona " element, the proud Brahman 
youth who have gained notoriety for their bitter opposition 
to everything Christian and Western, and who made riotous 
demonstrations even at the meetings of the Indian National 
Congress. At the first lecture there was one hiss directed 
against some distasteful Christian sentiment ; at the second 
lecture there were three or four brief outbursts of disap- 
proval, of which I was apparently unconscious, proceeding 
in the rapid delivery of my lecture with a voice that would 
probably have been audible in a cannonade ! The hostile 



JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 397 

noises proceeded, however, only from a few. The body of 
the house was filled with as grave and attentive a company as 
I ever addressed. At the third lecture Mr. W. S. Caine, 
M. P., presided, and was to hold a Temperance and 
National Congress meeting in the theatre after the close of 
my lecture on Christian Theism. The room was packed 
with dark-faced, white-turbaned hearers, among whom 
"Young Poona" was not wanting. There was a crowd in 
the street yelling to get in and anxious to have my audience 
get out. Mr. Caine opened the meeting by recalling what 
splendid services America had rendered to India, through 
schools, colleges, hospitals, and churches. For half an 
hour my lecture proceeded without disturbance. During 
the second half-hour there were several brief outbursts of 
dissent, which kept the speaker on his nerve, but which 
were evidently distasteful to the good sense and good feel- 
ing of the weightier part of the audience. In the three 
following lectures there was no disturbance whatever. The 
local papers, even those most bitter against Christianity, 
read lectures to " Young Poona " from editorial pulpits ; 
but to me this was one of the amusing and much prized 
experiences, which I should have been sorry to have missed. 
With this exception, and with a single moment's hostile 
demonstration at my closing lecture in Bangalore, Indian 
audiences have been unvaryingly courteous and attentive. 
The truth is that I could have preached Christianity in 
India in the ordinary way and have excited no hostile feel- 
ing whatever. But it has been my mission to speak of 
Christianity from the standpoint of Comparative Religion. 
This is one of the fairest ways of setting forth the claims 
of the gospel. But if it is done thoroughly, no matter 
with what kindness and courtesy of speech, the method 
is the most disturbing to Hindu pride which one can 
use. I have moreover spoken to many thousands who 
have not been accustomed to hear an earnest, direct 
presentation of the claims of Christianity. Under these 
circumstances the patient and attentive kindness of my 



398 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Hindu audiences has been remarkable and admirable. 
Before leaving this subject I must record an experience 
which came to the Reverend Joseph Cook at the close of his 
lecture in Poona. One of the Cowley Fathers (English 
High-Churchmen) presided. At the close of his address 
Mr. Cook asked if there would be any objection to all 
uniting in the Lord's Prayer. The chairman arose and 
made decided objection, ending his ill-chosen remarks by 
saying that we had the command of Christ Himself, forbid- 
ding us to cast pearls before swine ! This was like the 
explosion of a bomb. Men sprang to their feet shouting 
and gesticulating, and the meeting closed chaotically. 

It was on February ninth that we reached Bangalore, a 
beautiful city with a population of one hundred and eighty 
thousand, situated on a healthful plateau more than three 
thousand feet above the sea. The cantonment where the 
English reside is one of the largest in India. Here is the 
palace of the famous Tipu Sahib. The native quarter is one 
of the cleanest that I have seen. Bangalore has fine Roman 
Catholic institutions, a Wesleyan college, good public build- 
ings, an immense parade-ground, one of the finest halls in 
which I have spoken, a Hindu temple where I heard some 
really stirring music, and a Cosmopolitan Hindu club, 
where I met fifty as agreeable and intelligent Hindu 
gentlemen as I found in India. In Bangalore we first saw 
the serpent stones, — rows of slabs on which snakes are 
carved. Around these women were perambulating and 
making their offerings. My three lectures in Bangalore 
were given in the three different halls, so as to accommodate 
the different parts of the city, for these Hindu cities re- 
semble our national capital in their magnificent distances. 

I had a reception one morning at the reading-room and 
library of a native gentleman, who, with his long beard and 
bare feet and the white ash-marks of his god on his fore- 
head, might almost be taken for a fakir, but who is one of 
the most intelligent and liberal-minded of men. In his 
library I saw Mr. Gladstone's edition of the Works of 



JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 399 

Bishop Butler, and, as showing what contrasts exist in this 
land, I may say that attached to the library is a Hindu 
temple which our Christian feet were not permitted to enter. 
Connected with the temple and hbrary was a Hindu orphan- 
age. At Bangalore we were the guests of the Reverend Mr. 
and Mrs. Vanes of the English Wesleyan Mission, and we 
met the missionaries of all churches in a delightful recep- 
tion at the home of the Reverend T. E. Slater, of the Lon- 
don Mission Society, one of the most scholarly missionaries 
in Southern India. 

From the cool and beautiful plateau we descended in a 
hot and restless journey to Vellore, a lovely city of the plain, 
where we were the guests of the American missionaries, the 
Reverend Mr. and Mrs. W. I. Chamberlain of the Reformed 
Church. In this, the Arcot Mission, Dr. Henry Martyn 
Scudder, one of a great family of Indian missionaries, toiled 
for many years. It was our privilege, when Dr. Scudder left 
Plymouth Church, Chicago, for Japan, to give him a farewell 
dinner, at Avhich his brother laiinisters bestowed upon him 
a gold-headed cane. How I wish now that I had known 
the Hindu forms of affectionate greeting and farewell ! In 
that case we should have read to him a gold-printed address, 
placed garlands around his neck, sprinkled him with rose- 
water, touched his hands with fragrant oil, filled his pockets 
with limes, and burnt incense sticks in his honor ! This 
affectionate ceremonial would have reminded him pleasantly 
of many scenes in far-off India, where his great work still 
lives after him. In the Arcot Mission the Scudders and 
Chamberlains rule, and we had the good fortune to meet 
nine of them among them Dr. Jacob Chamberlain, whose 
delightful book of Indian sketches has just been issued. 

Vellore is certainly one of the brightest spots in our 
memories of India, A reception committee composed of 
Hindus, Mohammedans, Theosophists, and Christians was 
organized to take charge of us, to arrange for the lecture, to 
show us the fort and temple and city schools, and to give 
the lecturer a morning reception on the day of his depart- 



400 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

ure. ]My address was given in the American mission high- 
school building. The hall was crowded with what Mr, 
Chamberlain reports to have been " the finest and most 
intelligent audience that could probably have been gathered 
in the district." The chairman was the Moslem mayor of 
the city, Mr. Habibollah Sahib, and the address of welcome 
was read by Mr. N. R. Narasimmiah, B.A., B.L., the dis- 
trict judge. I had a new impression of the respectful 
courtesy and admirable patience of this Indian people. It 
is my habit here to put into my lectures the full force of 
my deepest and most fervent convictions. I speak with the 
absolute assurance which I feel, and I am well aware that my 
addresses put a tremendous strain on the courtesies of my 
non-Christian hearers, particularly at this time when Hindu- 
ism is undergoing one of those revivals through which the 
doomed and dying system spasmodically passes. I am 
continually telling my hearers that Christianity alone has in 
it the elements that fit it to become a universal religion, and 
that the Gospel of Christ alone is adequate to the regenera- 
tion of India. Hindu national pride often passionately pro- 
tests, but the Brahman judge who in Vellore conducted us 
through the fort and elaborately sculptured temple freely 
acknowledged to me the vast changes that had come from 
Christian influence, and confessed that Hinduism must 
purify itself by going back to its sources if it hoped to sur- 
vive. The caste system he found a burden, and he believed 
that it was doomed. 

My connection with an American university led the com- 
mittee in Vellore to arrange for a visit to the representative 
educational institutions of the city. Accordingly I was first 
received at the missionary high-school, where an address 
was presented on behalf of the teachers and eight hundred 
pupils, after which I was conducted over the school by the 
manager and head-master. I next visited the Hindu mid- 
dle school, where I was met by the district munsiff, or circuit 
judge, the manager and head-master, and was shown the 
various classes. The founder of this school was the mahunt 



JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 40I 

who had charge of one of the greatest temples of Southern 
India. The enormous revenues of this temple he misappro- 
priated, and a few years ago he was tried, condemned, and 
imprisoned. It was proved against him that the kegs of 
gold coin which he exhibited as the treasure of the temple 
were gold only on the surface. Copper coins had been sub- 
stituted for the greater part of the temple's wealth. 

Vellore surpassed all other places in floral welcomes. Did 
not Mem Sahib photograph me decked in thirteen garlands 
and holding three bouquets in my hands? But Vellore is 
hot, and my pleasantest experiences there were in a great 
swimming-tank built by one of the benevolent Scudders. 
At half-past eight in the morning the Hindu Club gave me 
a reception with the usual printed address of welcome. 
People here are very fond of titles, and they think it dis- 
courteous to omit any which justly belong to a guest. Be- 
tween two banana-trees was suspended a large red banner 
whereon were these words in white, — 

WELCOME TO DR. BARROWS, M.A. 

The Mem Sahib insisted that the last two letters made the 
welcome include her ! 

February thirteenth we drove to the junction, five miles 
away, to take the train for Madras. It was a beautiful drive 
through a rice country, where the green fields and the many 
sheets of water reminded us of the valley of the Nile, and 
where I should not have been surprised to see the Pyramids 
taking the place of the rocky hills which came frequently 
into sight. Southern India escaped the famine this year. 
Its turn came in 1877, when millions were swept away. 
The Reverend Mr. Vanes of Bangalore told us that in 
walking from his house to the high-school he sometimes 
counted a dozen dead bodies by the roadside. But this 
year Southern India is a delight to the eye, and our visit to 
the south land has been in many respects the most interest- 
ing part of our long journey. The Moslem mayor of Vel- 
lore was at the station to bid us good-by ; and our host, 

26 



402 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Mr. Chamberlain, accompanied us to Madras, where a large 
committee of reception met us at the station. Among them 
were Colonel Olcott, president of the Theosophical Society, 
one of the editors of "The Hindu," Dr. Murdoch of the 
Christian Literature Society, the Reverend Maurice Phillips, 
who was present at the Religious Congresses in Chicago, 
and several other of the Christian missionaries. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

MADRAS THE MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 

1\ /r ADRAS, a city of five hundred thousand inhabitants, 
■*■ capital of the Southern Presidency, rises along an 
exposed coast-line and is not a favorite halting-place for 
tourists. It has no magnificent temples to attract the 
visitor, and its heat is of the muggiest. But to me it has 
proved one of the most interesting cities in India, the cli- 
max of all my long trip. From the windows of the Chris- 
tian College, where we are housed, or at least from its 
tower, we may look out upon the artificial harbor, protect- 
ing ships from the violence of cyclonic tempests ; we may 
look over Blacktown to the north, and turning southward 
may see Fort St. George, the beginning of England's em- 
pire in India. Just across the way from the college are the 
magnificent Law Court buildings, the tallest tower of which 
is used for a lighthouse. Madras is a series of great villages, 
divided by parks, rivers, and railroads. More than two 
miles from us to the southward is that part of the city 
called Triplicane, where I met some Hindu disputants this 
morning ; and three miles farther is aristocratic Adyar, sacred 
to theosophy. Far away on the southern horizon is Little 
Mount, where a church covers the supposed burial-place of 
St. Thomas, the apostle to India. From the college tower 
we can see also the splendid library and museum, one of 
the finest modern buildings in the Indian Empire, and also 
the tall steeple of old St. Andrew's Church. The pleasantest 
drive in Madras is the Marina, along the surf-beaten shore, 
where one may see the peculiar boats of the almost naked 
Madrasis, some of them nothing but a raft of light logs bound 



404 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

together and propelled by a stout paddle. It was one of 
these unclothed sailors, wearing only a yellow hat, that con- 
vulsed l\Iacaulay with laughter when he arrived in Madras, 
when he first touched India, I believe in 1832. 

There is something very strange in the conjunctions which 
one continually meets with in the East. In yonder harbor 
are the steel cruisers, the perfection of the modern art of 
navigation ; and here are the log boats to which I have re- 
ferred, or the catamarans, with their projecting outriggers, 
or the masulas, used in landing passengers, which are nothing 
but open boats of thin boards sewed with cocoanut fibre to 
a strong framework. But from our windows the other morn- 
ing we saw something more remarkable still. It was a pro- 
cession of half-naked idolaters carrying an ugly god down 
to bathe. The idol was in a palanquin, sitting in front of a 
mirror, that he might not lose sight of his beauty ; and about 
him were, perhaps, one hundred of his friends and worship- 
pers, some of them making barbaric music. This procession 
crossed an electric-car track, swept by the Law Courts, 
and disturbed the studies of the eighteen hundred boys 
and young men who were in the Christian College. Hindu 
superstitions die hard, but they are dying. The crowds at 
the procession and bathing festivals are far smaller than they 
were a half-century ago. English education is undermining 
the old beliefs. There is something hollow, fantastic, and 
transient in the popular outburst which last week welcomed 
to Madras a Hindu missionary just returned from Great 
Britain and America. 

But perhaps the most interesting glimpses which I can 
afford my readers will come from a brief journal of our hot 
days in Madras. On Sunday, February fourteenth, we en- 
deavored to rest, until at five o'clock in the afternoon we went 
to a meeting of the Students' Volunteer Conference, where we 
heard an impressive address from Dr. Francis E. Clark, whose 
path here again crossed ours. At the next hour I preached 
in the college church to a company of young men, who did 
not seem aware of the, to me, almost intolerable heat. Two 



MADRAS. 405 

immense punkas waved over the audience, and a smaller 
punka was kept vibrating above the preacher's perspir- 
ing pate. But the temperature has been such that I 
shall always cherish an intense distaste for the expres- 
sion " a warm welcome." They say of the climate here 
that for two months it is hot and the rest of the year it 
is hotter. 

We are fortunate in living with the Reverend Mr. and 
Mrs. George Pittendrigh at the Christian College. I am 
occupying the spacious study of Dr. Miller, the president 
of the college, one of the great men of Scotland and India. 
He has been seriously sick in the house of one of the col- 
lege teachers, and, as an indication of the love and venera- 
tion in which he is held by all classes of the community, I 
am told that a lamp is kept burning for him in one of the 
Hindu temples. My reception occurred to-night in Victoria 
Hall. The platform was occupied by the committee who 
represent the various sections of the Hindu and Christian 
community. The usual address of welcome was read by the 
Reverend Mr. Kellett of the Wesleyan Mission, and then I 
was let loose on the audience for perhaps thirty-five minutes. 
After this I was escorted through the hall and had the op- 
portunity of meeting and talking with many men of many 
minds. 

Tuesday, February sixteenth. — A great, and for this sea- 
son of the year unprecedented, rain-storm flooded Madras 
last night. We breakfasted in the spacious bungalow of the 
Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Maurice Phillips, of the London 
Missionary Society. Then came some shopping in the most 
beautiful "store" that I have seen in India, at which the 
service is so slow that one melts away half his existence be- 
fore the parcels are ready. My first lecture occurred to- 
night in Victoria Hall. A respected Hindu judge presided, 
and at the close departed from the rules of the lectureship, 
which forbid discussion. In this case, however-. I was glad 
of the transgression. It gave the Hindu portion of the 
thronged and excited audience the opportunity of showing 



406 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

their feelings, and it gave the Christian auditors an oppor- 
tunity of watching the strange movements of a perplexed 
Hindu mind. The speech was touching, almost pathetic. 
He said that he knew nothing of Christianity, a confession 
for which he has been strongly criticised, and that he trusted 
the Almighty knew what was the best religion for each man's 
soul and would give him that. 

I have heard all sorts of odd speeches at the beginning 
and the end of my lectures. I could make an amusing let- 
ter out of them, telling of how one Oriental speaker said, 
" For me to introduce the lecturer of the evening is like 
a mosquito presenting an elephant." Another Hindu 
followed the lecture with remarks like these to his fellow- 
Hindus : " You see that Dr. Barrows believes with his whole 
heart in his religion. He has presented his ideas in regard 
to the supremacy and world-wide prevalence of Christianity 
with all the vigor of his profound convictions. Now, what 
shall we Hindus learn from this? We should learn that it 
is our duty to be just as earnest, sincere, and devoted to our 
own religion as he is to his ! " 

February seventeenth. — I am compelled to have my 
" chota hazri " at six o'clock in the morning, for Dr. Mur- 
doch, who is putting my lectures through the press so that 
a copy of each may be offered to the hearer immediately 
after its delivery, is hurrying us both for "copy" and for 
" proof." I worked hard till nine o'clock, when the Brahmos 
came with a fine address and the most beautiful garland 
that I have seen in India. Work, visitors, and writing 
occupy the time until we drive to Victoria Hall for the 
lecture. It puts nerve even into a tired man to face such 
an audience, and to feel that he is not only hammering 
away at one of the most obstinate of erroneous systems, 
but also is striving to make apparent the glory of that which 
is perfect and final. When I get back to my rooms, a cold 
bath and dressing for dinner are followed by the inevitable 
and always delightful dinner-party, from which we escape 
by eleven o'clock. 



MADRAS. 407 

February eighteenth. — This has been a repetition of yes- 
terday in the sort of work which has been done, except that 
in place of the usual lecture there occurred in Memorial 
Hall a reception by the native Christian community, with 
whom are many missionaries from the city and vicinity. 
Addresses of welcome were given by Mr. Theophilus, the 
President of the community, and also by the vice-president, 
a graduate of Cambridge University and Professor of Phi- 
losophy in the Presidency College. Then I spoke for an 
hour in a hall which was full of blazing lamps which made 
the heat like unto a furnace. It was refreshing that night 
to meet at dinner Mr. and Mrs. Cooling ; but I slipped away 
from the company early, and entered into happy sympathy 
with the vast unclothed population of India. No one who 
has not been in India — I may add in Madras — quite 
appreciates either the delights of a cold bath or the genius 
of Sydney Smith's remark about taking off one's skin 
and sitting in his bones. 

My Madras campaign ended nine days ago, with an 
undiminished temperature. The interested newspapers 
gave as many columns a day to the discussion of Christi- 
anity as to most other topics put together. One morn- 
ing I had a reception by the Triplicane Hindu Club, 
followed by a delightful breakfast with Colonel Olcott. One 
afternoon I was garlanded by boys in the College. One 
evening a reception was given by the Indian Social Reform- 
ers. On Sunday, February twenty-first, I was permitted to 
call on President Miller of the Christian College, and the 
chief educator in South India, whose serious sickness has 
been the anxiety of all classes of the community. Later in 
the day I preached in St. Andrew's Church. On Monday 
evening, February twenty-second, we dined with Mr. 
McConnaughy, the Y. M. C. A. secretary, a fine-spirited 
American, rejoicing in Mr. Wanamaker's recent gift of 
twenty thousand dollars to the new Madras Association 
building. At this dinner-party, where several Scudders 
were among the guests, did we not sing, beneath the 



408 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. ' 

punka's cooling breath, "America" and "The Battle Cry 
of Freedom " ? The next was our final day in Madras. 
The heat and the callers continued ; the first intoler- 
able, the second innumerable. Among the kindly visitors 
were two young Madras poets, who did me the honor 
of addressing to me an acrostic sonnet, which is such a 
fine specimen of Anglo-Indian poetry that although this 
gem of the muses came into my hands several years ago, 
its freshness of thought and originality of expression and 
measureless kindness of sentiment will be appreciated to- 
day. It is printed on heavy straw-colored paper in gilt 
letters with an illuminated border. 

" Religion is life's great poesy, 
Emits she a living soul into the earth ; 
Virtue, her tenderest daughter, with mirth 
Joined by duty, giv'n ; this courtesy 
Heav'n has freely granted, still heresy 
Blinded many. To bring close by a girth 
All creeds in the universe, and give birth 
Rightly to the doctrines and prophecy 
Religions claim, is a grand design. 
Oh, Holy Doctor ! though such a congress 
Was held by Asok and Akbar, no sign 
Seems now to remain, but yours much progress 
Doubtless make, so, may Lord His grace consign 
Down to you, to lead aright those transgress." 

The missionary's heated toil has its compensations ! 
Much of the ancient poetry of India is not so good as 
this ; and if any of my readers think this English sonnet 
imperfect in expression, let them strive to write equally 
good verses in Tamil. 

After my closing lecture Colonel Olcott, the founder and 
President of the Theosophical Society, moved, by appoint- 
ment of the reception committee, the vote of thanks. His 
words were hearty and generous ; but in the middle of his 
address he turned aside to make a strong attack on the 
sins of Christendom, and particularly of the English gov- 
ernment in India. He asserted that Christianity could 



^w 



MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 409 

make little progress while the British army immoralities, 
the collection of revenue from the demoralizing liquor and 
opium traffics, and the taxation of starving peasants to 
build Christian cathedrals continued. In my closing re- 
marks I endeavored to take the sting out of these assertions 
by saying that these and other sins of Christendom were 
quite as familiar to us as to non- Christians. We repro- 
bated them, denounced them as un-Christian, and fought 
them wherever they appeared ; and I reminded my hearers 
that the most potent voice heard in India during the last 
winter, calling upon the British government to amend its 
ways, was the voice of a Christian Englishman, Mr. W. S. 
Caine. 

The next morning, at four o'clock, we were among the 
hills in Salem, rejoicing in a day of comparative cool- 
ness and quiet. Some of these smaller cities of India are 
extremely beautiful in their broad shaded avenues, mag- 
nificent trees, and comfortable English homes. After one 
lecture and two receptions in Salem, we left our kind hosts, 
the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Dignum, of the London 
Mission Society, and drove in the early morning three miles 
along the banyan-shaded and monkey-haunted road to the 
station, from which we departed for Coimbatore. It was a 
restful railway journey through a lovely country. Rice- 
fields, cocoanut palms, little lakes, blue hills, now and then 
a hideous group of monstrous village gods, — such were 
the views given us in our uneventful journey. In the even- 
ing we were in Coimbatore, a sweet and almost heavenly 
place in its natural scenery. The hills were a benediction 
to people tired of the plains. Our hosts, the Reverend 
Mr. and Mrs. Brough, were Australians, but connected with 
one of the English missionary societies. The lecture was 
given in the Hindu College hall, packed as only Hindus are 
able and willing to pack a public meeting. The Black Hole 
of Calcutta may not have been intended for a place of 
torture. 

But I will not linger over Coimbatore, where we should 



410 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

have been glad to remain a week, but will hurry on to an 
account of our visit to the Malabar coast, the shore where 
the pepper-tree grows and where Christians have lived, 
flourished, and suffered since the fourth, and possibly since 
the second, century. Our friend Prince Nouri told us in 
Cairo that he probably would be elected this winter the 
Patriarch of the Chaldean or Syrian church of India. His 
prophecy was realized, and on the seventh of February this 
youngest of all patriarchs — he is only thirty-three years of 
age — was crowned on his birthday in the Chaldean Cathe- 
dral at Trichur. He promised us a great welcome from 
the Chaldean people if we would only turn aside to the 
west coast. His promises were amply fulfilled. There is 
no railway line as yet to Trichur. From Coimbatore we 
took the train for Shoranur, about twenty miles from our 
destination. The youthful Prince and Patriarch and 
Father George, his secretary, welcomed us at the station. 
A bullock-cart received our luggage and Marutee, our "boy." 
We were put into a nice jutka, a shaded and cushioned 
cart, drawn by a smart pony and driven by a little Mala- 
bari, naked to the waist. A similar vehicle received the 
Patriarch and Father George. 

The twenty-mile drive was over a perfect road, usually 
shadowed by great trees, amid which we saw scores of 
thatched huts and clustering villages, looking precisely like 
pictures that used to appear in the missionary Sunday- 
school books of our childhood. This day, for the first time, 
we saw the peasants, not wearing a protecting turban, but 
carrying flat palm-leaf umbrellas between them and the 
implacable sun. At a little Christian village five miles from 
Trichur we visited a Syrian church, and were welcomed 
by the priests, who gave us refreshing water from cocoa- 
nuts. Hundreds of the friendly Christian villagers swarmed 
curiously about us, their genuine kindness taking away the 
discomfort of being stared at. We here left our jutkas, and 
entered the purple-lined carriage of the Patriarch, which 
had been sent to meet us. As we entered Trichur, — a 



MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 41I 

well-shaded city of seventy thousand mhabitants, nearly 
half of whom are Christians, — crowds of young men began 
to gather about and to follow the carriage. Their number 
soon reached into hundreds, and from the bazaars there was 
a constant succession of the most kindly greetings. The 
men, boys, and children wore amulets, some of them crosses, 
around their necks. "All of them Christians," said the 
Patriarch, over and over again. Arriving at the cathedral 
and patriarchal palace, we found the great courtyard lavishly 
decorated with hundreds of streamers and with flowers and 
foliage. Over the gateway and above the word " Welcome " 
in gilt letters were the English and American flags. We 
were received by the bishop in a purple satin robe and by the 
attending priests and elders. A thousand people followed 
us into the courtyard, to whom I spoke from the balcony. 
Before this a printed address of most cordial welcome from 
the Chaldean community was read to us inside the palace, 
and I made a somewhat lengthy response, which was trans- 
lated into the INIalayalam language. 

The next day was Sunday, — our last Sunday in India. 
In the morning the Prince accompanied us in a drive to the 
hospital, English residency, and the Maharajah's palace. 
Trichur is in a Native State, and appears very well governed. 
It was a great relief to get away from the painted foreheads, 
daubed with the marks of various deities, to this Christian 
community, where such sights are rare. At half-past nine 
we attended high mass in the cathedral, conducted by the 
bishop, who offered special prayers for America and for us. 
My name and that of my country were the only words I 
recognized in the entire service. The Gospels were read 
both in Malayalam and in the old Syriac version. We sat 
with Prince Nouri in chairs directly in front of the altar. 
The church was crowded with clean, fine- faced, happy- 
looking worshippers. Nearly all of the men are naked to 
the waist. All the clothing that we saw was pure white. 
During most of the day the courtyard was half full of people 
waiting to see us come in or go out. 



412 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

At half-past one o'clock the elders had an interview with 
me, and told the sad story of the persecutions from which 
they are suffering on account of the attempts of the Roman 
Church to get possession through the courts of the Syrian 
churches. They have been compelled to spend many 
thousands of rupees to defend their ancient rights and prop- 
erty. I am glad to report that the effort to take from them 
the Trichur Cathedral was defeated. When the Portuguese 
became dominant on the western coast early in the sixteenth 
century, the Romish priests resolved to bring the ancient 
Syrian Church under the papal yoke. The Syrian bishop 
was seized and sent to Portugal, and there tried by the In- 
quisition. The Syrian Church was oppressed, and by ver}'^ 
unrighteous means papal authority established over a part 
of it. A Chaldean bishop, on his way to the help of those 
Syrians who resisted the Roman oppression, was captured, 
sent to Goa, imprisoned, and burned as a heretic in 1654. 
With the advent of the Dutch and the decrease of Portu- 
guese power, the Syrians regained their freedom and some 
of their rights. But Rome retained her dominion over the 
greater part of the people. To-day in Travancore and 
Cochin she has more than four hundred thousand of them. 
The Syrian Christians number two hundred thousand. Some 
of them are decidedly evangelical, as is the new Patriarch. 
The Syrians are not united, however, and they have a re- 
lentless foe that is striving through legal processes to deprive 
them of their ancient and precious inheritance. The sym- 
pathies of liberty-loving people the world over are with this 
faithful and long-suffering church. I am confident that 
there are many Roman Catholics in America who, if they 
knew the condition of things here, would heartily reprobate 
the effort to accomplish by law in the nineteenth century 
what the Inquisition failed to do in the sixteenth and 
seventeenth. 

Everything was done for our comfort at the Patriarch's 
residence, and in the evening he read a second address of 
welcome from himself and the bishops, which was Oriental 



MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 413 

in its warmth and coloring. The good bishop, Mar Augus- 
tinos, himself a Chaldean, has been devoting his life for 
twenty years, without a vacation, to his diocese. One of 
his best friends is a beautiful green parrot, which he has had 
for seven years, and who talks to him, I know not in what 
language. In the evening I had a call from a learned, fine- 
looking priest from Travancore, with whom and the bishop 
Prince Nouri and I carried on a fraternal triangular conver- ^ 

sation. I spoke to Prince Nouri in English, he reported 
in Arabic to the bishop, who transmitted the message in 
Chaldean to the priest. Thus the ages and the conti- 
nents were linked together. The shores of Lake Michigan, 
the sands of Arabia, and the banks of the Euphrates 
drew near to each other on the coasts of India ; while 
hundreds of the Christians of Trichur looked up from the 
courtyard to the balcony where this strange conjunction 
occurred ! . 

At three o'clock Sunday afternoon I made another long 
address to one thousand people in the courtyard, and later 
I lectured to two thousand Christians and non-Christians in 
and around the Hindu College. The Governor of Trichur, 
a Hindu, presided. Prince Nouri made an eloquent ad- 
dress, and our carriage was followed by many hundreds, — 
one of the strangest sights that my eyes ever rested on. The 
next morning we regretfully bade good-by to our generous- 
hearted friends. The Prince accompanied us five miles on 
our way to the little village before referred to. With tears 
and Oriental embraces separation took place. The Prince 
returned in the patriarchal carriage to Trichur. We entered 
our jutka, and were driven to Shoranur, saying to ourselves 
that we had passed through an experience strange and 
new. 

Those interested in Oriental customs may like to be told 
that on the Malabar coast we saw an extreme fashion in 
ear-rings, — a fashion with which we became still further 
familiar in Southern India. A hole is made in a girl's ear, 
which is enlarged by inserting bigger and bigger disks until 



414 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

the lobes often reach to the shoulders, and attached to 
these lobes are gold or silver ornaments. I was sorry to 
find this barbarous custom prevailing sometimes in Christian 
schools, though usually among older persons. It cannot last 
long among those trained as Christians. 

Our next halt w^as in Madura, capital of one of the old 
Indian kingdoms, — an interesting and splendid city of 
nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants. En route we 
saw the historic rock and fort of Trichinopoli. Our journey 
from Trichur occupied twenty-eight hours. Before reaching 
the city of Madura we could see the famous temple — one 
of the largest in India, and, on the whole, the finest — lift- 
ing its lofty gopuras above the verdant plain. A large del- 
egation met us on our arrival, among them the Reverend 
J. P. Jones, D.D., one of the foremost men of the American 
Board. The garlands which Madura gives are not of flowers, 
but of gold and silver thread, and famous throughout India. 
We were glad to have some relic of this sort that would not 
fade on the voyage to America. We were guests for a part 
of the time of the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Vaughan, and for 
one of our two nights at Dr. and Mrs. Jones's pleasant bun- 
galow three miles away at Pasumalai. Madura gave me a 
crowded programme : a reception and address at the East 
Gate Church ; two lectures in Hindu club-houses ; a meeting 
with the American Board missionaries ; a morning conver- 
sazione, where I answered questions for an hour ; a delight- 
ful breakfast with Judge and Mrs. Russell, in whose com- 
pound is the finest banyan-tree that I have seen in India, a 
tree which both the Prince of Wales and the present Em- 
peror of Russia have tried to climb ; a visit to Miss Swift's 
Zenana training-school for Bible women, a very useful and 
important institution, where the Bible women who were there 
being trained kindly gave us limes and garlands ; a visit to 
Miss Noyes's girls' school ; tea at the picturesque home of 
the British commissioner, Mr. Twig, — a peculiar house, built 
by Tirumala, an Indian king, for tiger fights and gladiatorial 
shows, at the door of which, as we came out, the servants 



MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 415 

killed a green poisonous snake six feet long ; a visit to the 
boys' school, theological seminary, and Brahman hostel in 
connection with the American Mission at Pasamulai, and an 
address to the Christians of that interesting community. 
After this came two delightful days in Tinnevelly among the 
good people of the English Church Missionary Society. Here 
I gave my closing lectures in India in a large pavilion, which 
the native Christians had constructed for the occasion. 
Besides this I addressed the students of the Church Mis- 
sionary College and the girls in the Sarah Tucker College. 
In this fine institution we saw and heard some new things. 
Here were blind girls who read to us from the first chapter of 
Matthew, — and sang to us while one of them played the piano. 
Then we saw quite a large number of deaf mutes, who deeply 
impressed us as with faces and fingers they told us the story 
of Jesus down through the flight into Egypt. There are a 
hundred thousand Protestant Christians in Tinnevelly dis- 
trict ; and how the scepticism which some people feel in 
regard to foreign missions would be dispelled, and how some 
apostles of Hinduism would be enlightened, should they be- 
come familiar with the educational, charitable, medical, 
evangelizing, and other work of this noble and successful 
mission ! I had a strange feeling of thankfulness and relief 
when, at Tinnevelly, the last of my lectures in India was 
given. And it seemed to me significant and almost pro- 
phetic of the great Christian victories of the future, that, 
while I began my speaking in India in Benares, the capital of 
Hinduism, I ended it in the Christian light and hope per- 
vading this splendid mission. I was promised an audience 
of twelve hundred native Christians if I would stay over and 
preach on Sunday, but I could not well remain. Tinne- 
velly is doubtless the "show place " of English missions, as 
Beirut is for the Presbyterians, and the Hawaiian Islands 
are for the American Board. It is said that English churches 
have been told so much of Tinnevelly that they close their 
ears when the name is mentioned by missionary speakers. 
But I have heard of one who captured his auditors by a 



41 6 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

thrilling account of the work in this district in which he 
mentioned only unfamiliar names, taking great care never to 
say " Tinnevelly." We had no more delightful hosts in 
India than the Brahman Christians, Mr. and Mrs. Shreena- 
vassa, who entertained us here. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

CEYLON. 

(~\^ March sixth we bade good-by to our hosts, Mr. and 
^-^ Mrs. Shreenavassa, and, equipped with sandwiches 
and a big bottle of tea, entered the train for Tuticorin. 
This is the jumping-off place for men, as it formerly was 
for gods, who wish to escape to Ceylon. Arriving there, 
several kindly Christian catechists of the Society for the 
Propagation of the Gospel met ns with garlands and with 
cordial words of greeting and farewell. The health officers 
made us no trouble, and we boarded the little launch which 
carried us seven miles out to the " Katoria," the biggest and 
best of the British India steamers running to Colombo. 
Soon after I went on board, a young Indian connected with 
the ship's service said to me : " You are, I beHeve, Dr. 
Barrows. I wish to thank you for your services to Chris- 
tianity in dispelling falsehoods which are being circulated 
in Southern India to the effect that England and America 
are being Hinduized." I learned that he was a Roman 
Catholic, and belonged to a Christian community that 
reached back more than three hundred years to the work 
of Xavier. 

Soon the long, low coast of India faded from our view, 
and that great land which drew to it the covetous eye of 
Alexander and where British adventurers founded an empire 
greater and more durable than Alexander's — India, which 
climbs from its plains and plateaus to the loftiest heights of 
the world, — India, the spoil of conquerors and the inspira- 
tion of poets and sages, the land of sorrow and distress and 
blighting pestilence, which is to-day dear to the world's 

27 



41 8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

pitying heart, a land, too, which is of all lands the battle- 
field of the world's religions — became for us henceforth a 
memory, a memory which gathers to itself a host of kindly 
thoughts and courteous deeds and friendly faces, many of 
them " dusk faces with white silken turbans wreathed." 
Land of sorrow and struggle, of intellectual greatness ; land 
of gentle manners and keen intelligence, of undying hope 
and unwithering national pride, — thou bearest on thy bosom 
the ashes of Gautama Buddha, the grave of Keshub 
Chunder Sen, the peerless beauty of the Taj Mahal, the 
throbbing hearts of millions who love thee and who look in 
faithful aspiration to God and to a golden future which 
shall not fail thee, — farewell, and count us ever among thy 
lovers, ready to serve thee, eager to befriend thee, unable 
to forget thee ! 

At half-past eight o'clock the next morning we were an- 
chored in the harbor of Colombo. After another medical 
examination we and our luggage were landed by means of 
a small boat, and without a second's delay at the custom- 
house Mem Sahib and I were soon rolling in jinrikishas 
along the sea-road a mile away to the Galle Face Hotel, 
overlooking one of the finest beaches in the world. The 
cooling tub, the sea-breezes, which, if not '' spicy," were 
fresh and healing, iced drinks, and a bamboo couch helped 
to mitigate the intense and overpowering heat. The Rev- 
erend Mr. Moscrop, a Wesleyan missionary, called to inform 
me that my two lectures in Colombo were to be on the next 
Friday and Saturday evenings. Therefore we had nearly 
a week of freedom. I felt like an escaped schoolboy. 

" Now my task is smoothly done, 
I can fly or I can run." 

And the next day we took our flight from Colombo for 
Kandy. Colombo itself is interesting, the chief city of an 
island, part of which may have been the original paradise of 
man. Half the size of the Empire State of New York and 
with half its population ; set like a jewel in the Indian Sea ; 



CEYLON. 419 

luxuriant in palm-trees and cinnamon groves ; covered with 
tea and coffee plantations and with immense forests, through 
which herds of elephants still rove ; rising into great and 
beautiful mountains which lift one into the regions of phys- 
ical comfort, and yet almost everywhere covered with a 
rank and indescribably vigorous vegetation wherein nature 
displays not only her stupendous power but also her tropic 
violence, — Ceylon affords so many attractions, so much of 
interest, with its great variety of populations, with its pic- 
turesque ruined cities, temples, and its unmatched health- 
resorts among the hills, that I do not wonder at the enthu- 
siasm of traveller and poet. Literally, every prospect 
pleases, and I do not think that man here displays any con- 
spicuous or unusual vileness. Indeed, a few days on the 
island and among its people made me feel how much supe- 
rior, as a civilizing and humanizing force, is Buddhism to 
the degrading Hinduism, which, fallen from its higher 
ancient philosophies, has perverted the life of India. 

Colombo, a city of one hundred and thirty thousand in- 
habitants, seems to be buried, most of it, in vegetation. 
Where the sun is nearly vertical, one welcomes any amount 
of shade. The houses are almost hidden in palm groves. 
A drive to the cinnamon gardens or Victoria Park leads one 
to pass many a charming and picturesque bungalow, and by 
the sites of several important schools, churches, and col- 
leges. The Portuguese, Dutch, and Enghsh have had their 
hands on the rice-fields and sugar-canes, the feathery bam- 
boos, nutmegs, and breadfruit-trees, of this most wondrous 
of tropic isles. The years of British rule have brought 
material prosperity. Colombo is now a great port, and really 
the meeting-place of the North and the South, the East 
and the West. Great French, English, German, Italian, and 
Austrian lines of steamships centre here. From Colombo 
you sail for Melbourne or Marseilles, Madagascar, or Java, 
Calcutta or Shanghai, Alexandria or Yokohama ; Aden or 
Saigon, Liverpool or New Caledonia, Trieste or Singapore. 

But we were impatient to leave Colombo for Kandy, where 



420 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

we might find coolness and quiet in the midst of scenes as 
beautiful as the hand of God ever created. " The fairest 
view that these eyes of mine ever rested on," said General 
Booth, speaking of Kandy. It was a ride of seventy-five 
miles, — the hottest ride, for a part of the way, which we have 
on our record, — a ride that carried us up through pretty 
views of forests and sloping tea-fields and terraced rice- 
paddies, nearly seventeen hundred feet, to this old cap- 
ital, for which the Cingalese, Portuguese, Dutch, and 
English have struggled, but sacred forever to the memory 
of the calm and peaceful Buddha, whose tooth consecrates 
the little temple which rises on the shores of a tiny lake. 
In the Queen's Hotel we made our home for nearly four 
days. To me the most delightful experience of this time 
was an occasional spin in a jinrikisha around the palm- 
fringed and hill-shaded lake. It is a place for perfect, 
dreamy quietness. Nature is not so violent and gigantic as 
at Darjeeling ; the sea is not present with its everlasting moan 
and its terrible power of dragging the mind far, far away to 
" inhospitable shores " of thought and feeling. All seems 
like a picture of Eden from Milton's fifth book of the 
" Paradise Lost." How profuse is the bloom from the tops 
of these trees, how wondrous the fruitage of these vari- 
ous palms, how friendly these hills, how homelike and 
tranquil these villas embowered in foliage ! One morning, 
lying in bed, I heard the musical drums of the little Bud- 
dhist temple amid the trees by the lake. The sound had a 
strange effect on my imagination. It seemed an echo from 
remote centuries recalling the cry of the self-exiled Sid- 
dartha for deliverance. It seemed the voice of millions on 
the far-off Asiatic plains and the northern Japanese Isles, in 
a bewildered way calling to prayer. It was another expres- 
sion of the sweet, sad music of humanit}', stirring in the 
heart humane and pitiful feelings toward those — and how 
many they are — 

" Who, groping in the darks of thought, 
Touch the Great Hand and know it not." 



CEYLON. 421 

The morning after our arrival we drove to the world- 
famous royal botanical gardens in Peradeniya. It was a 
drive of four miles through such displays of bright tropic 
verdure and bloom as one may have dreamed of, but never 
reahzed before. The garden itself would have been a per- 
fect home for Adam and Eve in the blissful morning of 
time, Adam's Peak, it is well known, dominates the island 
of Ceylon, One must come to Peradeniya to learn what 
nature really can do when sun and shower and soil give her 
the chance of displaying her prodigious force. The wealth 
and beauty of the tropic world are in that garden. Here 
we saw the wondrous India-rubber trees, their roots spread- 
ing like enormous crocodiles or writhing serpents, some of 
them four feet thick. Here we saw the taliput palm, some- 
times called the queen of all palms, which in thirty years 
pushes its white and polished trunk and plume of dark 
verdure straight upward and then blossoms, shooting up- 
ward for forty feet a white pyramidal spike, each bloom of 
which forms a nut, the seed of other palms. The tremen- 
dous effort of nature has been too much for the mother 
tree and she dies. Here the nutmeg and clove trees flour- 
ish, and the ebony and mahogany, the coflee, the vanilla, 
the camphor, and the cacao, and two hundred varieties of 
palm-trees. Here is one which can be put to a hundred 
uses. Here is the breadfruit-tree, and near it the trav- 
eller's tree, which remind us of " Swiss Family Robinson." 
Here is the sugar- palm from which fortunes are made in 
Southern India. Here are the ivory-nut palm, and the 
prickly palm, and the cabbage palm, and the date palm, 
the toddy palm, the sago palm, and the cocoanut palm. Ac- 
companied by a very intelligent Cingalese guide, we walk 
through wondrous arches of foliage, through the orchid and 
fern houses, and gaze with joyful astonishment at riches of 
color and miracles of nature's workmanship, cheapening 
the tapestries and museums of kings. 

How poor would the world be without such growths as 
abound in these gardens ! The physician's art would be 



422 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

less potent without the cinchona and cocaine. The world 
of childhood would be impoverished of one of its delights 
without the cacao, from which chocolate is made, and the 
world of commerce without the nutmeg and clove, the ma- 
hogany and ebony, the coffee and the pepper, the rubber 
and the cinnamon. We saw the Napoleanum Imperiale, 
whose blossoms look like a crown, and the giant maidenhair, 
big enough for the tresses of Hindu goddesses, and we saw 
here, as we had seen elsewhere, the jackfruit-trees, where 
the green clumsy fruit, sometimes weighing sixty pounds, 
clings close to the trunk. Along the beautiful river which 
waters this garden, we saw clump after clump of the giant 
Malacca bamboos. These enormous thickets with their 
close-clustering stems, each as large as a Western tree, shoot 
upward to an enormous height, and well have been likened 
to a petrified botanical geyser. Nowhere else have I been 
so impressed with the vigor — I may say the violence and 
venom — which aroused nature displays in these portentous 
and almost incredible growths. 

Of course I visited the Temple of the Sacred Tooth of 
Buddha, — not an imposing shrine, but the centre of Bud- 
dhist devotion in Ceylon, revered also in China and Japan, 
and rich in annual tributes from Burmese, Siamese, and 
Cambodian priestly and princely personages. The sacred 
tooth, brought to Ceylon in the fourth century, was taken 
back to India one thousand years later, but was recovered 
and hidden. Later, however, the persecuting Portuguese 
found it, and it was burned by an archbishop in Goa on the 
West Coast. The new tooth, which was manufactured of 
ivory, to take its place, is two inches long and almost an 
inch wide, and would find itself at home in the mouth of 
a rhinoceros. When I said to the guide that the tooth 
was too big for a man, I received this information : " Our 
religious books tell us that Buddha was eighteen feet high." 
The beggars are thick at the gates of this shrine, and a 
red cloth-covered plate is pushed before you at almost 
every turn within it. We saw a Burmese woman telling 



CEYLON. 



423 



her beads in one of the porches. The masses of flowers 
before the holy places were exquisitely beautiful. One fra- 
grant flower which here takes the place of the yellow mari- 
gold in India is called the temple flower. The library in 
this Buddhist shrine has a large and valuable collection of 
Buddhist literature. On the outer walls of the temple I 
saw the hideous frescos representing the punishments in- 
flicted in the Buddhist hell, and reflected that this religion 
of pity and gentleness on earth surpasses the mediseval 
Christian theologians and poets in its pictures of cruel 
material tortures for those who rob a Buddhist shrine or 
steal from a Buddhist priest, or commit less heinous crimes. 

This morning we left Kandy with regret, but soon found 
ourselves filled with delight over the glorious mountain 
views which reward the sight as the train climbs the four 
thousand feet to Nawara Eliya. It was a beautiful ascent, 
with its glimpses of tea plantations, waterfalls, mountain 
vistas, hedges of lantanas of many colors, and of other 
beautiful blooms, such as we find only in our hothouses. A 
three-mile drive from the station brought us to this, one of 
the loveliest spots in all the world. Some rather decrepit 
members of the English aristocracy are here, and all the 
sports, driving, riding, bicycling, tennis, cricket, golf — most 
dear to the English heart — may be enjoyed in the midst of 
climate and scenery on which experienced travellers are 
now lavishing the praises which have been given to Hono- 
lulu, Pasadena, Cashmere, the Riviera, and the New Zea- 
land Alps, all combined in one ! But alas ! it rains this 
afternoon, and our drive to the botanical gardens and 
around the Moon Plains must be given up, and to-mor- 
row night, in Colombo, I return to my old habit of lectur- 
ing. My whole course of lectures was asked for by the 
Missionary Conference of Colombo, but I gave only the 
fifth and sixth. These were delivered in Wesley Hall, 
where I had my first opportunity of addressing a large 
number of Buddhists. 

The Indian Lectureship takes its important and per- 



424 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

manent place among the factors of Indian evangeliza- 
tion. Every two years some well-equipped speaker for 
the cause of Christ will go forth from Great Britain or 
America to reach tens of thousands of the educated youth 
of the Indian colleges. Christian lectureships, setting 
forth the claims of Christianity, to meet the changing 
wants of the modern mind, are found eminently useful 
in the universities and cities of Western Christendom, 
where men are familiar with Christian truth and largely in 
accord with Christian philosophy. But in India the case is 
very different and the need much greater. The govern- 
ment colleges, where most of the Indian youth are edu- 
cated, are not Christian. Many of them are decidedly 
anti-Christian, and some of the professors in them by their 
words, temper, and lives, give the false impression that 
Western scholarship has little or no sympathy with Chris- 
tianity, and especially with the evangelical type of it rep- 
resented by the missionaries. I shall never forget how 
eagerly some of the native Christian teachers of Benares 
welcomed my lecture on " The Spiritual World of Shake- 
speare." They said : " It will have a good influence in 
showing these young men that the greatest of poets was in 
sympathy with Christian truth." The great majority of 
our missionaries are overworked already, organizing and 
teaching schools, preaching in bazaars and villages, attend- 
ing to the business details of missions, making out reports, 
settling accounts, overseeing catechists, busy with corre- 
spondence. Some are translating the Scriptures, editing 
vernacular and English papers, visiting the sick, and pre- 
paring for long preaching-tours in camps. Only a few, 
comparatively speaking, can find leisure to make themselves 
specialists through a thorough knowledge of Hindu philoso- 
phies, or by the preparation of elaborate apologetic lectures. 
In the years to come the Lectureship will give a breath of 
fresh, strong inspiration to the toilsome and in some re- 
spects restricted lives of our noble missionaries, by bring- 
ing them into contact with Western Christian scholars, rich 



CEYLON. 425 

with the spoils of special investigation and afire with 
heaven-kindled faith. And more than this, the Lecture- 
ship will bring to eager- minded Hindu youth, who are 
usually very wiUing to listen to men of eminence in whose 
works or lives they have been taught to take interest, such 
clear, strong, wise statements of Christian truth as will fur- 
nish materials for subsequent thought, and help to correct 
the intellectual attitude of the people who have been 
trained, as Sir Henry Maine has said, in " false morality, 
false history, false philosophy, false science." For these 
and other reasons the Indian Lectureship is far more 
needed in India than similar endowments are in Oxford or 
New York. 

Furthermore, as the Hindus are pre-eminently a reading 
people, and as India is the land of cheap printing, inex- 
pensive editions of the lectures may reach a wide circle 
and be a useful legacy for years to come. Dr. Murdoch, of 
Madras, of the Christian Literature Society, is deemed by 
everybody one of the most influential Christian forces in 
India. By him five thousand copies of my lectures have 
already been printed ; and it has certainly been cheering 
to me that several missionaries have ordered a hundred or 
more copies for their own special use. Besides all this, I 
apprehend that the lecturers themselves going back to Great 
Britain or America, will have a useful mission in the home- 
lands. They certainly must be very dull of perception and 
feeling if they cannot speak with more interest and vivid 
personal knowledge of the needs of Christian missions and of 
the progress of Christ's Kingdom in the Orient. My three 
months in India, where I became familiar with work carried 
on by the American Board, American Presbyterians, Bap- 
tists, and Methodist?, and the Reformed Church ; by English 
Wesleyans, the London Mission Society, English Baptists, 
the Church Missionary Society, the Free, Established, and 
United Presbyterian Churches of Scotland, the Canadian 
Presbyterians, and others have strengthened in rae several 
convictions, toward which I had been inclined by previous 



426 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Study. I went to India with an open mind. No previous 
opinions, however, have been changed, except in this, that 
they have been deepened during three eventful months into 
which were crowded experiences enough for many years. 
Let me enumerate a few of the convictions which I pro- 
foundly feel. 

Christian missions have all the greatness and importance 
which have ever been claimed for them. Christ is the essen- 
tial factor in the regeneration of India. Only the Divine 
Christ as revealed in the Gospels, the incarnate Son of God, 
the atoning Redeemer, the risen Conqueror of the grave, is 
adequate to human needs. The missionaries are a faithful, 
devoted, and self-sacrificing body of men and women, de- 
serving our affectionate support and our full confidence. 
There is among them an unusual amount of willingness to 
adopt new methods and to adapt themselves to changing 
necessities. The methods of missions are not stereotyped. 
The results of missions are great, various, and encouraging. 
Much more preparatory work must be done before the 
largest harvests are reaped. The educational work in 
Christian colleges should have a foremost place in our 
confidence and in our expectations for the future. The 
chief men in this Christian college work thoroughly under- 
stand the situation and are laying firm foundations. The 
men who are doing most to fill up the gap which has been 
distressingly wide between the educated Hindu and the 
average missionary, are those who have taken time to be- 
come familiar with Hindu thought, and whose wisdom and 
love have given them the spirit of openly expressed sym- 
pathy with the nobler aspects and elements of philosophic 
Hinduism. The religion which the educated Hindu is form- 
ing and adopting to-day and is vainly hoping may prove a 
substitute for that Christianity whose progress he fears, and 
some of whose representatives he does not approve, is a 
composite of Vedic, Vedantic, and Christian ideas and sen- 
timents, which he labels Hinduism. Very much of village, 
zenana, and primary educational work in India may be 



CEYLON. 



427 



successfully carried on by men and women of consecrated 
spirit and loving hearts who are not largely equipped with 
the learning given by a study of comparative theology. 
But there are many intending missionaries whose work in 
India will be much more thorough, wise, and acceptable if 
they secure in advance that special preparation for meeting 
the educated Hindu mind which Dr. ElUnwood and others 
have strongly recommended. 

Ceylon, as well as India, is now a thing of the past. At 
Nuwara Eliya last Friday morning the sun smiled again, and 
the dawn was superb and refreshing after the much-needed 
rain. We took a drive about the lake, and gained a good 
idea of a region which seems to fascinate all who come to 
it. On the breakfast- table the flowers were those of the 
temperate zone, — daisies, pinks, geraniums, coreopsis, and 
larkspur, — and out of doors the callas, fuschia trees, and 
eucalyptus reminded us of California. The slide down hill 
to Colombo took most of the day, but the temperature went 
up as we went down. Had it not been for the entrancing 
views, the refreshment car, and the interest of '' Sir George 
Tressady," the heat might have disturbed our tempers. 
The Reverend Mr. Moscrop received us into his comfortable 
bungalow among the slender cocoanut palms, on the marge 
of the loud-resounding sea. Wesley Hall was thronged on 
that night and the next. On the first evening the presiding 
officer was a Christian Cingalese lawyer, a member of the 
governor's council. The audience was half Christian, and 
it was quite a relief to address so large a proportion of 
hearers in full sympathy with my words. 

Ceylon has a Christian population of more than three 
hundred thousand, of whom about fifty-six thousand are 
Protestants. The Portuguese and the Dutch used force to 
persuade the people of this island to accept Christianity. 
Mr. Moscrop says that '' Ceylon has been christianized twice 
over, or, rather, ecclesiasticized, — a very different thing." 
When the coercion was removed, thousands, of course, went 
back to Buddhism and Hinduism. 



428 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Better methods prevail to-day, and Christian progress has 
been genuine and hopeful. Saturday afternoon I was hon- 
ored by a call from Sumangala, the high-priest of Ceylonese 
Buddhism, a man of great learning and distinction. In his 
yellow silk robe and bare feet and shaven head he preserved 
the general characteristics of the Buddhist monk as he has 
appeared in Asiatic history for the last twenty-four centuries. 
But he himself is a modern man, familiar with recent 
thought and radiant with the spirit of gentleness and toler- 
ance. We had much pleasant talk of Dharmapala, at 
whose father's house we were entertained that night at din- 
ner. In the days of Portuguese and Catholic ascendency 
European Christian names were freely given and received 
by the people. Dharmapala's father bears the name of 
Don Carolis. This is his business designation, and he is a 
man who has been eminently successful. It was pleasant 
to meet in his large and beautiful home his wife and sons 
and daughters, some of whom are familiar with the English 
language. 

Colombo has a warm place in my recollection, not 
only on account of its beauty and the kindnesses of its 
people, but also because there I heard the first sermon in 
English to which I have Ustened since leaving Cairo. Yes- 
terday morning we made our final arrangements for the 
long voyage of twenty-one days between Colombo and 
Japan. Our host accompanied us to the ship. This was 
not the " Yarra," as we had expected. That vessel had 
touched at Bombay, and had been quarantined at Marseilles 
and taken out from her published schedule. Marutee, our 
" boy," who had been with us from December fifteenth to 
March fifteenth, left us and our luggage on the steamer and 
departed. Dear Marutee ! What a solemn, faithful boy he 
was ! His age was perhaps fifty. Strong and very dark, he 
waited for us like a black, solemn sentinel at the door of 
every carriage, bungalow, shop, and bedroom. How familiar 
he became with our belongings ! How carefully he guarded 
us from thieves ! How many useful offices he filled ! He 



CEYLON. 429 

packed and unpacked our boxes and bundles, bought our 
tickets, engaged our railway carriages, hired our coolies, 
acted as our interpreter (until in South India he struck lan- 
guages which he did not know), waked us at night when 
trains were to be left or changed, and waited on us at table. 
We never saw him smile, and scarcely ever saw him sit down. 
We are told that he has spoiled us for travelling in other 
lands. And all this for his railway fare and thirty-five 
rupees a month. Provided with his wages, an allowance 
for food, a recommendation, a photograph of " master," 
which he had asked for, and a ticket back to Poona, our faith- 
ful companion left us to the tender mercies of French 
stewards and of the eternal sea. 

The shores of Ceylon, after a few hours, faded from view, 
and we dreamed of America and were joyful. A beautiful 
rainbow arched itself from the shore out. into the sea, and 
our hearts welcomed the hopeful sign. That for which I 
left church and city and native land has now been done. 
The faith and foresight of Mrs. Haskell have been justified ; 
and her name is already a household word, beloved and 
revered throughout India, and to be as familiar in the com- 
ing Christian history of that land as the name of Bishop 
Heber or of Alexander Duff. The lecturers who follow 
me in the years and generations to come will have a cordial 
greeting and find a large field of usefulness. I am grateful 
not only for the opportunities which the India pilgrimage 
has afforded, the thousand courtesies which have been ex- 
tended, but also for the providential care which through 
heat and plague and wearing labors has brought us, in 
health and safety, to the present hour, when ray mind is 
divided between happy memories of " eldest Ind " and 
delightful anticipations of the young, fair land of which we 
so often think and speak as " God's country." The six 
days' voyage on the French steamer "Yang-tse," across the 
Bay of Bengal, down the straits of Malacca, along the shore 
of the great island of Sumatra, were days of grateful rest 
and happy memories. As we neared Singapore, we prom- 



430 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

ised ourselves never even to think disrespectfully of the equa- 
tor again. One afternoon we saw some queer-looking black 
things floating off to the south, and the rumor was started 
and soon gained currency that the heat had finally told on 
the equator so that it had melted and broken up and we 
saw its fragments. The men on our ship were in one re- 
spect like the habitants of heaven, — they were clothed in 
white ! Shall I ever cease being grateful to our hostess in 
the Christian College of Madras who sent for a tailor and for 
my comfort had made two cotton suits of exceeding light- 
ness, costing two dollars and a half apiece, but worth far 
more than their weight in gold? We arrived at the island 
of Singapore on Sunday morning. It is a delightful place 
for those who enjoy tropic foliage and immeasurable heat. 
England of course has stamped upon it the impress of good 
government, and fully appreciates an island which stands 
warder at the gates of the Pacific and Indian seas. The 
Chinese, however, are predominant even over the Malays in 
Singapore ; and they give one the impression of good 
living, good-nature, physical vigor, and worldly prosperity. 
We had our breakfast Sunday morning at the Hotel de 
I'Europe, and then rode in jinrikishas to a Presbyterian 
church. We found the service had been at half-past 
seven in the morning. Think of that, O lazy Am.ericans ! 
Then we went to find the Chinese Methodist Sunday- 
school, which Bishop Thoburn told me was the largest 
Sunday-school in Asia. But this meets on Fridays ! Then 
we went to the Public Gardens, and at three o'clock set 
sail into the Pacific Ocean for China, Japan, and home ! 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

ON THE CHINA COASTS. 

WE have skirted the coasts of China, touching at Saigon, 
Hong Kong, and Shanghai. But we saw the repre- 
sentatives of the Chinese Empire and reaUzed some of the 
extent of the Chinese industrial domain long before we 
looked at the rocky and iron-bound and storm-lashed 
shores of the world's hugest nationahty. Was not our 
"punka" pulled by a Chinaman on the way to Bombay? 
Did not a Catholic Chinaman in the Hindu city of Madras 
make for me the slippers which I now wear? Did we not 
see hundreds of stout-legged Chinamen in the streets of 
Singapore? And when I arrive on the American shores 
and reach my own city and go thence to the Atlantic 
coast, I shall be conscious that the Chinese industrial em- 
pire already has nearly belted the globe. 

We left Singapore March twenty-first and arrived at 
Saigon, a thriving city in the Frenchmen's China, on the 
twenty-third. We had a rough sea nearly all of that day 
until we passed Cape St. James and entered the Donai River, 
up which we steamed forty miles through a flat and rather 
uninteresting country, until we reached Saigon, a city of 
which I have the most unpleasant recollections. Our cabin 
was on the port side of the ship, and was jammed up against 
the dock so that our one window was closed, and in such 
stifling heat this made life almost unbearable, except on 
deck. We arrived early in the evening, and, engaging a 
Chinese cabman, who knew a little " pigeon English " but 
no French, we were driven to five different hotels in search 
of a room in which to spend the night. Our search was 



432 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

vain ; all were full, and we thought there must be a presi- 
dential convention bringing to the city a multitude of ardent 
patriots. There is no doubt that France has got hold of 
a good piece of property in the Orient, and a Frenchman 
whom I met this morning in Kobe and who had spent 
several months in French China, was very enthusiastic in 
his account of the natural productions of the country. 

Quite a number of our French fellow-travellers left us at 
Saigon. There were three of them from whom we were very 
anxious to part, but they remained on board our steamer 
until we reached Hong Kong on the twenty-eighth of March. 
These were a gay and brilliant couple, with their infant 
daughter, perhaps three years old, \vho was the c?ifant ter- 
rible of the steamer. I never have seen elsewhere a child 
so badly trained. She excited much pity. Little Marie had 
wine for breakfast, beer for luncheon, wine for dinner, and 
brandy and soda before going to bed at ten o'clock. Her 
parents were whimsical and irritable tov.'ard her, severe and 
indulgent by turns, and the poor child was worn out and 
nervously upset all the time. Occasionally she acted like a 
fiend. The story was current that the child's underclothing 
had not been changed since she left Marseilles. The brandy 
and soda made her sleepy some time toward midnight, and 
she was laid upon her berth in the clothes that she had worn 
through the day. At Saigon little Marie was dressed very 
brilliantly and taken by her parents to see " Hamlet " in 
French opera. Those who saw it reported the performance 
incredibly bad, and this may have had its effect on the 
sensitive Parisian child. 

We were thirty-six hours at Saigon, and one night I slept 
on deck and tried to realize where we were. Our environ- 
ment surely was strange and almost unbelievable. Beneath 
us was the ship, representing the scientific victories of the 
nineteenth century, — our floating, temporary home ; at the 
table we had the luxuries of modern civilization ; around 
us were people who had come from all parts of the earth ; 
on the shore began that populous continent of Chinese life 



ON THE CHINA COASTS. 433 

which stretched northward to Siberia and westward to Thibet, 
and in yonder theatre men and women were enacting the 
scenes which three centuries ago had haunted the mind of 
an EngUsh country tradesman's son, whose present intel- 
lectual empire shows that he is the poet of humanity. 

Besides two nights, we spent an entire day at Saigon, or, 
rather, on board the ship, for I had no desire to leave the 
vessel for anything that was visible on the shore. The day 
was almost unbearable, with the hot, close, and stifling atmos- 
phere. The passage in front of our cabin door was crowded 
with freight, with boxes of Benares opium, which the coolies 
were landing, and with an enormous amount of boxed silver 
coin, which the Chinamen, carefully supervised, were carry- 
ing ashore. I spent the day writing and in watching the 
queer boats, which made the scene on the river very odd 
and lively. These boats, covered with matting, like long, 
low market- wagons, or like Noah's ark, with sails of matted 
grass, were everywhere and alive with people. One of our 
Enghsh companions, who had lived thirty years in China, 
afifirmed that he never had seen a fine-looking Chinese woman, 
and certainly the features of those whom we saw managing 
the boats were far from beautiful. In every country where 
women are set to the tasks which in America usually are 
allotted to men, that fineness and beauty which we associate 
with femininity is soon lost. We saw here, as later at Hong 
Kong and Shanghai, how populous China has spilled over 
into the sea. What multitudes live on the water ! Hun- 
dreds of thousands of families have their homes, if such 
they may be called, in boats. Here the children are born. 
A woman, two hours after recording an addition to her 
family, will be propelling the boat with the new-comer 
strapped upon her back. Sometimes, it is said, the chil- 
dren have bamboo sticks tied to them, so that when they 
fall into the water they may be dragged out easily. But in 
spite of the animahsm, the narrowness, and the poverty of 
such lives they did not appeal to us with the distress which 
always disturbed us in India. These Chinese families 

28 



434 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

seemed well fed, their faces and legs were round, and 
they had the appearance of people who enjoyed a cer- 
tain amount of animal satisfaction. 

We observed a tendency among our English companions 
to depreciate the efforts of missionaries to improve the 
minds and morals, the ideals and condition of the Chinese 
coolies and all the lower grades of the vast Chinese popula- 
tion. One of them said to me, " You might as well attempt 
to Christianize rats or rabbits." No more heathenish and 
abominable sentiment than this, so unworthy of the better 
England, ever was uttered in my hearing. Precisely such 
talk greeted the early Christian apostles and preachers who 
found their first converts among the coolies and slaves of 
Antioch, Ephesus, of Corinth, and Rome ; and certainly 
such talk is contradicted by the facts, with which, however, 
some English merchants living long in China appear to be 
quite unfamiliar ! 

We were not sorry to bid adieu to Saigon ; and as our 
ship left the Donai River and turned her prow northward, 
we began after a few hours to realize the possibiHty of an 
ultimate escape from tropic heat. On the twenty-sixth of 
March it had become considerably cooler, almost comfort- 
able, and I found myself in a condition to do a large amount 
of literary work. I shall associate a good many of the books 
and pamphlets on Hinduism which came into my posses- 
sion in India with this voyage on the China Sea. I have 
come to realize what an immense and permanent factor in 
human civilization climate is. The advent of cooler weather 
produced a great change in the appearance of our company 
of travellers. The white garments disappeared ; overcoats 
and even sealskin cloaks came to light ; everywhere there 
were attempts at exercise on the part of the passengers, 
and even the flirting which a beautiful English lady was 
carrying on with one of the French officers seemed to take 
on new activity as we approached Hong Kong. 

We heard the fog-horn more or less during the night of 
March twenty-seventh, and we awoke the next day to find 



ON THE CHINA COASTS. 435 

ourselves stock-still in a heavy fog. Cannon were fired sev- 
eral times to discover if echoes could be heard from a 
famous and dangerous rock thereabouts. During the middle 
' of the day the fog lifted for several hours, and we slowly pro- 
ceeded, catching views of hilly islands to our right and of 
a dimly mountainous coast to our left. Besides we saw 
innumerable junks with sails of matting. I found amuse- 
ment during the day in reading Kipling's " Seven Seas" and 
in dictating letters; but, oh, how cold it was, and how the 
fog chilled the bodies that had been bathed so long in 
tropic steam ! It was eight o'clock in the evening when 
Hong Kong was reached, but there was no landing till the 
morrow. It looked very beautiful in the night-time, with 
the harbor full of lantern-hghted boats and the town running 
up the hillside, gleaming with thousands of gas-jets. In 
the morning it was more beautiful still, and the lofty island 
rose from its sheltered harbor, full of other and smaller 
islands, looking like a strong sentinel guarding one of the 
chief rivers of China. Yes, seven hours up the river is the 
great city of Canton, and here at the mouth of it England 
holds what has become the fourth port of the world. 

Some of our English friends invited us to use their launch 
in landing, and at ten o'clock in the morning we set foot in 
the city of Victoria, — for such is its name, though you may 
never have known it before. We were soon inside the 
magnificent Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, devouring 
letters which had been sent from the ends of the earth to 
meet us there. After an hour in this most delightful of 
occupations, we were carried in sedan chairs by stout coolies 
to the tramway which climbs the steep island of Hong Kong. 
The view from the summit of Victoria Peak is most interest- 
ing, and I realized for the first time that the shore of China 
is grimly rocky and inhospitable. But I had all the while 
the feeling that something immense lay beyond, something 
portentous, — indeed, one of the chief factors in the future 
life of humanity. Beneath us was the blue harbor, filled 
with shipping, and the town, well built and prosperous. 



436 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Azaleas, violets, and many strange wild-flowers covered the 
side of the lofty hill ; and nature presented a lovely aspect, 
quite in contrast with the history of war, plunder, plague, and 
conquest which I might write out in connection with the 
story of Hong Kong. 

Great Britain bears a heavy responsibility in having 
forced the opium traffic into China, and more than one 
writer has pointed out the contrast between the English 
opium policy and her noble antislavery legislation. It is 
not true, however, that England entered upon the opium 
war simply in order to force the Chinese to provide a mar- 
ket for the produce of the poppy fields of India. As Dr. 
W. A. P. Martin has pointed out in his fascinating volume, 
"A Cycle of Cathay," there were many grievances of long 
standing which occasioned the opium war. One of these 
was a proclamation issued every year by the Chinese gov- 
ernment, accusing foreigners of horrible crimes. Another 
still was the Chinese habit of compelling the British ambas- 
sador to do homage to the Emperor, with the implication 
that England was a vassal of China. It is a pity that Great 
Britain, when war was ended in 1842, in the opening to 
British trade of the five ports of Canton, Amoy, Fuchow, 
Ningpo, and Shanghai, did not have the moral courage and 
the Christian benevolence to insert into the treaty a clause 
prohibiting the destructive traffic which is working such ruin 
to-day in China, and which thus is associated with the 
policy and the good name of a so-called Christian nation. 

What a checkered spectacle of crime and glory England's 
Asiatic policy has been ! Gaining possession of the barren 
mountain island of Hong Kong, England has transformed 
this area of twenty-nine square miles into one of the most 
picturesque and beautiful places in the world. Destructive 
typhoons and conflagrations, plagues, and wars have stood in 
the way of immense and uninterrupted prosperity; but still 
Hong Kong is a leading port of Asia, and Victoria has a 
population of more than two hundred thousand souls. 
When Dr. Martin arrived here in 1850, it was after a voyage 



ON THE CHINA COASTS. A.l'J 

of one hundred and thirty- four days from Boston. It gives 
one an idea of the strength of the missionary impulse and 
motive which carried men from America to this inhospitable 
coast to remember such a fact as this. In 1850, he informs 
us, the rate of passage on the steamer from Hong Kong 
to Shanghai was two hundred dollars in gold. We did not 
take the time from our i^w hours in Hong Kong to visit the 
friends and correspondents with whom for years I have 
associated the name of the Enghsh island, greatly as we 
should have been delighted to meet them. The Christian 
missionaries and teachers who are at work in the great 
Chinese cities are doing something at least to overcome the 
hostility felt by the Chinese to all foreigners. I do not 
mean that they are changing the Chinese policy of exclusion, 
but they are reaching individuals and showing that pure self- 
ishness is not the universal mark of Western civilization. 

As one walks through the streets of Hong Kong, thronged, 
prosperous-looking, and adorned with substantial and even 
splendid buildings, he finds it difficult to believe that this 
island formerly was the chief emporium of the infamous 
cooly traffic, the Asiatic slave-trade, by which nearly five 
hundred thousand Chinese laborers lost their liberty and 
were carried off to Peru or Cuba, enduring horrors in the 
voyage over the Pacific almost equal to those of the Atlantic 
middle passage. Sometimes, however, the coolies rose 
against their masters, and burned the ship after butchering 
the crew. George F. Seward relates the story of the 
American ship " Waverley," which, laden with coolies, 
entered the port of Manila. Some of the Chinese asked to 
go ashore, and a dispute followed in which one Chinaman 
was shot and the rest were forced below and the hatches 
battened down. " These were not opened till the next 
morning, when two hundred and fifty-one coolies were 
found dead." In an outbreak on an Italian ship the coolies 
were driven below in the same manner, but, unwiUing to 
perish by suffocation, they set fire to the vessel. The crew 
escaped, but the ship, with her cargo of human beings, was 



438 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

consumed. An English Chief Justice of the Supreme Court 
of Hong Kong declared, in 187 1, that within a short period 
six or seven ships, carrying about three thousand coolies, 
had been burned or otherwise destroyed. In enumerating 
the improvements which have marked the Victorian era, 
the historian will not forget to record the disappearance of 
this Asiatic slave-trade. 

Hong Kong appeared to me one of the most delightful 
places that I ever have seen, whether viewed from the top 
of Victoria Peak or from the prosperous streets below. I 
am aware that in the summer-time, the heat and moisture 
make the climate almost unendurable. Henry Norman 
informs us that one of the chief summer problems of the 
city is to determine whether the mushrooms which grow 
on your boots during the night are edible or not. It is 
said that when the booksellers receive a case of books the 
first thing they do is to varnish them all over " with a 
damp-resisting composition containing corrosive sublimate ; 
otherwise the cockroaches would eat them before they had 
time to grow mouldy." But these reports I must take on 
faith. We found the city delightful, the shops interesting, 
and the evidences of England's success in giving a civilized 
appearance even to a Chinese city overwhelming. 

It is said, however, that Hong Kong is a paradise of 
criminals from the neighboring provinces. They take 
refuge in the British city and then commit petty offences 
in order to be imprisoned for a few months, and thus to 
escape from arrest and torture at the hands of the Chinese 
officials. However one may grumble at some of the devel- 
opments of British civilization in the Orient, his grumblings 
are apt to come to an end when he begins to discover the 
amenities of Chinese justice. 

We were rowed out to the steamer, the " Yang-tse," by a 
celestial family whose home was the boat. Three or four 
fat boys were stowed in behind us, the father steered, and 
the mother and one of the older boys tugged at the oars. 
Gathered about the "Yang-tse" was a whole flotilla of 



ON THE CHINA COASTS. 439 

Chinese junks, and from the deck of our steamer we could 
watch the hfe of the Chinese household afloat. One never 
tires of admiring the skill with which the chopsticks are 
used by young and old, and no one could help rejoicing 
that the supply of rice seemed, adequate even for Chinese 
appetites. Chinese idols are apt to be fat, and thus they 
reflect the Chinese idea of happiness. 

On the afternoon of March twenty-ninth we sailed away 
for Shanghai. Some of our companions had gone up the 
river to Macao and Canton, but time would not permit us to 
halt, and we knew that at Shanghai we could see one Chinese 
city ; and in such a case as this one is enough. After three 
days of strong wind, rough sea, and colder weather, we 
awoke on the first of April to find ourselves in the Yang- 
tse River, a veritable Amazon, giving access to the homes 
of one hundred and seventy-five million people. The 
shores on either side were invisible. The St. Lawrence is 
the only stream which I have ever seen that appeared to 
me to have any such volume of waters. Up the yellow, 
rough,. and apparently shoreless tide we steamed until land 
at last came in sight. About twelve miles from Shanghai 
our steamer stopped and we went aboard the launch 
" Whangpoo " for a two hours' ride to one of the most 
important of Asiatic cities. Innumerable boats and ships 
with eyes painted on the prow met us in this ride. Cotton- 
factories, oil-tanks, petty Chinese gunboats were passed, 
and about six o'clock in the evening we touched the wharf. 
Soon two jinrikishas whirled us along the Bund to the 
Astor House, the best hotel in the city, bearing an Ameri- 
can name because it and a great deal of property near it 
used to belong to an American named Astor. The Euro- 
pean part of the city is fine, large, handsome, well built, and 
full of prosperous people. I ordered a fire for our room, 
and, denying myself the pleasure of attending a Christian 
Endeavor meeting and of visiting a number of Christian 
friends, I sat down to read the American newspapers and 
to smile over the European cables announcing that " a col- 



440 



A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 



lective note from the powers was being prepared," and that 
" the Sultan was meditating new reforms." And so that 
farce still continues ! When will Europe be ashamed of 
itself? 

We had an early breakfast the next morning, and, taking 
two jinrikishas, we started out to explore Shanghai, where 
the European part, with its tall buildings of brick and stone 
and its bright clean street, would look well in any country. 
We determined, however, to have a ghmpse of the Chinese 
city, even though we neglected a visit to a famous porcelain 
tower, and, leaving our jinrikishas at the gate, we went 
boldly in. As we could find no guide, we plunged forward 
alone. Hideous, whining beggars sat on the slimy stones 
just across the sluggishly flowing sewer which separates 
civilization from Confucianism. The narrow streets were 
bordered by shops, were thickly covered with liquid filth, 
crowded with people and heaped high with garbage. Men 
were carrying through the streets buckets of filth, and 
many of the sights were as indescribable as the general 
smell was intolerable. Twenty minutes in the native part 
of Shanghai would be sufficient to remove from the minds 
of some of our Western eulogists of Chinese civilization all 
the glamour which now deceives them. In all my experi- 
ences in the Orient I have seen nothing, unless it be the 
shores of the Ganges at Benares, so unspeakably shocking 
and horrible as the native quarter of this great Chinese 
city. How any Chinaman can retain his prejudice against 
" foreign devils " after passing out of the native city into 
the European quarters, is one of the obscurest of mysteries. 
It is like going from an inferno of filth to a paradise of 
cleanliness and beauty. But the Chinaman has no aver- 
sion to filth and bad smells. He finds them compatible 
with health and physical vigor. His constitution has been 
accustomed to the microbes that flourish in the midst of 
these vile surroundings, and he endures with complacency 
what would drive an American mad. Friends have assured 
me, however, that the native quarters of Shanghai are 



ON THE CHINA COASTS. 44 1 

sweet and beautiful compared with some parts of Pekin ; 
but this is a traveller's tale which I will not believe. 

More grateful than ever before for the external decencies 
of civilization, we left the undiluted vileness of native Chi- 
nese life for the better part of Shanghai, into which the 
Western world has introduced cleanliness and physical com- 
fort. After visiting a big, gorgeous, dirty tea-house, given 
up in part to the use of opium, and making the usual inroad 
upon a photograph-shop, we got aboard the " Whangpoo," 
and at half-past ten steamed back for the "Yang-tse," and 
by noon were sliding down the tawny stream, as big as the 
ocean. We had no strong desire to see more of China. 
The whole of the next day our ship rolled and tossed on a 
rough sea, but, with chairs well placed on deck, we sat out 
from breakfast till luncheon, tucked up with rugs and our 
heaviest winter things, having the deck to ourselves so far 
as sitters, were concerned, for all who came out promenaded 
briskly in order to keep warm. On the day following we 
were in the Inland Sea of Japan, which General Grant re- 
garded as the most beautiful sight in all his trip around the 
world. Mountains and wooded islands and a sapphire ex- 
panse of placid water, — Japan was before us, the land of 
beauty and of progress. But our minds lingered in that 
prodigious Chinese world out of which we had escaped. 
However loathsome some of the external features of Chi- 
nese life, our few days of observation strengthened the con- 
viction that here was a people having the physical basis of 
a mighty nationality. They are the great colonizers of the 
East ; they are flocking into Polynesia ; they are able to 
redeem the great tropical islands of Borneo and Sumatra, 
but in their own ancestral home they occupy a land per- 
haps the most resourceful of any excepting our own on the 
face of the earth. ''The dragon sleeps," say the Chinese, 
when men speak of China's recent defeat by Japan. True, 
and the dragon is a long time in waking ; but when China 
does rouse herself, according to Napoleon's sagacious proph- 
ecy, she will change the face of the globe. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 

'E had in Japan nineteen days of pleasant activity. 
Landing in Kobe on the fifth of April, we sailed 
from Yokohama on the twenty-fourth. If I do not write as 
enthusiastically of Japan as most travellers, it will be partly 
because I was too busy with my lectures to see it thor- 
oughly and sympathetically, and partly because, engaged 
in delivering these Christian addresses and constantly 
meeting with Christian people, I was testing Japan by 
standards somewhat higher than those that are usually 
applied. Still, I sympathize with much that has been 
written in regard to the extraordinary progress which this 
patriotic, imitative, intelligent, and ambitious people have 
made in the last forty years. 

I think my strongest feeling was one of joyful thank- 
fulness that we were no longer in China, and that we had 
reached a beautiful country where at least the superficial 
elements of modern civilization are apparent. Kobe is 
not the most interesting of Japanese cities by any means, 
but it gave me those fresh impressions which constitute 
one of the chief delights of travel. Dr. and Mrs. Atkinson 
and their family of bright young people made us exceed- 
ingly welcome, and gave us a new sense of the superiority 
of things American quite pleasant to our patriotic pride. 
In the afternoon, accompanied by our host and hostess, 
we went to Hiogo in jinrikishas, and revelled in Japanese 
picturesqueness. Everything was interesting, even the 
persistent curiosity of the people at the Fair, who crowded 
around us as we inspected the booths and shops and 



JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 443 

shows. We saw the Daibutsu, one of the many big statues 
of Buddha found in Japan, and inside of it I discovered a 
beautiful bronze of Buddha as a child, with a fat, sinister 
face that convulsed us with laughter. I made every effort 
to buy it, offering twice its value, but all in vain. It was 
about three feet and a half high, and looked a little like a 
fat child, intoxicated and with a maudUn leer. It was hard 
to give it up, and, presenting ourselves in a temple to some 
Buddhist priests, we entered into negotiations, which ended, 
alas ! in talk, for the capture of this precious thing. 

Then we drove through the odd streets, past all sorts of 
shops, and saw a stone pagoda and another bronze Buddha 
with a halo round his head, holding up three fingers after 
the fashion of his Holiness the Pope. In the evening I 
lectured in the church of Reverend Mr. Ebina, and had my 
first experience in Japan of attempting to move an audience 
through an interpreter. The Association of the Kumai, 
or Congregational Churches of Japan, was to meet in this 
church the next day, and there were representative Japa- 
nese pastors present from all over the Empire. The church 
building itself was spacious and pretty, and on the platform 
in a beautiful vase was a large branch of the Japanese 
cherry-tree, while above the pulpit were two Japanese flags. 
The national spirit enters into religion here as perhaps 
nowhere else in the world. Patriotism is a chief virtue of 
the people, and the Christian churches are eager to prove 
themselves not a whit behind their non-Christian friends 
and neighbors. I am told that it is the usual- thing for a 
foreign speaker to occupy a large part of his address in an 
extended eulogy of Japan. He cannot possibly say any- 
thing too extravagant, for the people are quick and eager 
to believe everything great and good of their country. I 
condensed my eulogium into a few sentences, and endeav- 
ored to plunge almost immediately into my lecture ; but the 
interpreter, although he had a printed copy of the address 
in his hand, was unable to get my ideas before the audience. 
The situation became unendurable, and finally I asked the 



444 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

privilege of giving my lecture without interruption to the 
end, while the interpreter should follow at his leisure, after 
I had finished. About a fourth of the audience knew 
English, and accordingly with more heart and hope I 
resumed my task. At the close most of the English 
hearers and those who understood English departed, 
while my poor friend was left with the remainder of the 
audience struggling on, I think, till about midnight ! I 
have now made twenty-two addresses in Japan, most of 
them through an interpreter, and, on the whole, my ex- 
perience has been satisfactory and delightful. I cannot 
speak too highly of the ability and success of the Japanese 
gentlemen who in Osaka, Kyoto, and Tokyo have repro- 
duced my elaborate and somewhat difficult addresses.. In 
many cases they entered fully into the spirit of the lecture, 
and, having studied it in advance, were able with fluency 
and fire to enter into the task of interpreting my message. 
In some cases the intellectual ability displayed was astonish- 
ing, and the tenacity of memory very remarkable. I would 
give rapidly two or three pages, and the interpreter would 
start in as soon as I had finished, and give without omission 
what I had said. Those who were competent to judge 
pronounced the work to be admirable, and frequently the 
interpreter would reproduce the tones of my voice and the 
gestures of my hands ! I have been told that Reverend 
Joseph Cook's interpreter in Japan entered so fully into the 
spirit and style of the great Boston lecturer that even to-day 
he preaches with the tones and manner of Joseph Cook. 
The Japanese have great ability in imitation. They have 
imitated Parisian styles of dress, German methods of fight- 
ing, English and American ways in commerce, just as cen- 
turies ago they caught the trick of the best Chinese art 
and echoed the Confucianist philosophy. They give a 
national tone and coloring to whatever they have taken 
from other nations, and to a greater degree than seems 
desirable, they have endeavored to mould and modify 
Christianity itself till it assumes Japanese forms. 



JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 445 

The morning after my lecture I looked in on the meeting 
of the Kumai Association, and it seemed to me that they 
carried on their business with commendable order and 
thoroughness. The chief vice of Japanese conferences is 
a tendency to tedious detail and long-windedness. What 
breaks down the American missionary in Japan perhaps 
more than anything else is the " Sodan," or conference, 
without which nothing can be done. Some trivial matter 
in church affairs comes up and it must be debated endlessly 
hour after hour. The Japanese church officials and the 
nervous and would-be patient American missionaries sit 
and talk and talk and talk. An affair which could be 
settled in ten minutes by a little common-sense is made 
the theme of prolonged discussion. It is useless to attempt 
to hurry anything ; that would cause offence and new 
trouble. There is no sense whatever of the value of time 
in Japan, or in any other part of the Orient. With his 
hands full of all-important work, the missionary must sit 
and sit, and join in interminable talk till he comes to feel 
the truth of Rudyard Kipling's description of British experi- 
ences in India, — 

" It is not good for the Christian's health to hustle the Aryan brown ; 
For the Christian riles and the Aryan smiles, and he weareth the 

Christian down ; 
And the end of the fight is a tombstone white, with the name of 

the late deceased, 
And the epitaph drear: 'A fool lies here who tried to hustle the 

East.' " 

But let us not blame the genrie and talkative Oriental too 
severely. Think of the British Parliament, and the American 
Congress, remember how great schemes for national im- 
provement have been talked to death in the Senate, recall 
ecclesiastical meetings which make some American and 
English pastors sorry almost that they entered the ministry, 
remember the discipline and the exhaustion of nerve and 
the emptying of all hope and joy out of life which are the 
natural results of the trivial detail and stupidity of some 
church official meetings, even in energetic America, and do 



446 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

not be too severe on the Japanese who find such delight in 
a "Sodan." 

One cannot travel in the interior of Japan without a 
passport, and accordingly I made my way through the 
rain to the office of the American Consul in Kobe and 
secured for one yen, which is equal to fifty cents, that 
precious document. But, alas for the conditions which 
accompanied the granting of this right to travel ! There 
were certain prohibitions, two of which I will mention, 
that robbed it of most of its pleasure. I was forbidden to 
desecrate Japanese temples, and also prohibited from at- 
tending a fire at night on horseback ! It ought to be 
generally known in America that these harassing conditions 
are attached to the granting of a Japanese passport. 
Many of us would not visit the beautiful Empire, if we 
knew in advance that we could not plunder heathen shrines 
and gallop to a midnight conflagration on our fiery steeds. 
When I recall how, in Chicago, when the fire alarm was 
rung, I used to mount my horse in the night-time and ride 
to the vicinity of some blazing building on Halsted Street 
or Dearborn Avenue, there to meet Drs. Withrow, Hillis, 
MacPherson, Gunsaulus, and Noble, it seemed to me that 
travel in Japan had lost its dearest charm. But after 
a while one recovers even from such disappointment, and 
begins to wonder at the reason for this Japanese regulation. 
That reason has been lost in the twilight of unrecorded 
history ; but as the Japanese cling to ancient forms out of 
which all meaning has departed, much after the fashion of 
some European Church-establishments, we will not fling at 
them any very bitter criticisms. 

After Mrs. Barrows had visited a girls' school in Kobe, 
and delighted her heart with purchasing some fascinating 
china, we left our hospitable friends, and in a pouring rain 
began a brief railway journey to Osaka, where we were met 
by Reverend Mr. Haworth and Reverend Mr. Fisher, and 
were soon rolling through the streets of this great town to 
Mr. and Mrs. Haworth's delightful house. Even in a pour- 



JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 44^ 

ing rain one can be perfectly protected in a jinrikisha. But 
the stout little Japanese that dragged us through the streets, 
each one of whom might rightly be named Pullman, were 
among the oddest spectacles that I ever saw, with their 
bare feet and bare legs and black water-proof capes and 
broad black hats, as big as an umbrella and just the shape 
of a toadstool. 

The programme at Osaka included a reception at Mr. 
Haworth's, attended by over forty missionaries of all de- 
nominations, with some Japanese friends superadded ; an 
address in the Presbyterian Church to about fifty Japanese 
evangelists, in speaking to whom I endeavored to utter 
some words of cheer suggested by my recent experiences in 
India ; a lecture to eight hundred people in the Y. M. C. A. 
building, and a sermon before the Osaka Presbytery. Be- 
sides this, we had a delightful visit at the girls' school, where 
we met Miss Alice Haworth, Miss A. E. Garvin, and Miss 
Ella McGuire, and quite a number of Japanese girls, who 
burst out into a hearty American laugh as I bade them good- 
by on the lawn, using the Japanese word " Sayonara," which 
signifies, " If it mns^ be so." Among the Christian mission- 
aries whom we met in Osaka and very highly appreciated, 
were Reverend Dr. A. D. Hail and Reverend J. B. Hail, of the 
Cumberland Presbyterian Church. We had one delightful 
afternoon sight-seeing in company with a number of our 
friends, visiting the Mint, which was closed for repairs, and 
the great historic Castle, where the walls show you immense 
stones that remind you almost of Baalbec. What cyclopean 
masonry the old Japanese have left us ! And who can forget 
the splendid view of Osaka which the Castle affords ! Below 
us and around us was a city of six hundred thousand inhabi- 
tants, — the Venice of Japan, from its closeness to the waters, 
and the Chicago of Japan, from its commercial enterprise. 
What a picture the rivers, canals, bridges, smoking factory- 
chimneys, the adjacent fields, and the encompassing moun- 
tains made on that April afternoon ! Inside of the Castle 
once lived the much beloved emperor whose picture is so 



448 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

frequently seen in Japanese homes, the famous ruler who 
let his palace go without repairs in order that his poor 
people might have fuel enough to send through their chim- 
neys the smoke which told of comfort and good dinners 
within. And I shall not forget the visit to the great Jap- 
anese prison, with its four thousand inmates, two hundred 
and thirty of whom were women. The courteous and capa- 
ble warden accompanied us in our inspections. The ladies 
in our party could see the women, but not the men. My 
missionary companions and I were permitted to see every- 
thing, and certainly it was one of the best-kept and cleanest 
prisons in the world. The ventilation was admirable. The 
women were confined in wooden cages, and wore crushed 
strawberry or old rose gowns, thick and quilted ! They spin, 
wash, mend, etc., and, so far from looking like hardened crim- 
inals, or criminals at all, they helped to make the whole scene 
appear like a joke. We were told that no one ever broke 
out of this jail, although a Yankee prisoner could cut his way 
to freedom with a jack-knife in an hour. The prisoners are 
brought in, tied together, with baskets over their heads, so 
as not to show their faces on the street. Whenever we 
entered a room accompanied by the warden, a signal was 
given, and all the prisoners stopped work and bowed their 
heads to the floor, keeping them there in this posture of 
abject deference until the signal was given to lift themselves 
up again. Most of the crimes for which these people were 
incarcerated had to do with various forms of theft. On the 
whole, we were much pleased with what we saw of prison 
life in Japan, and we devoutly prayed that China, when she 
begins to imitate Western civilization, may introduce a little 
of Western humanity into her treatment of criminals. 

The old capital of Japan, Kyoto, a city of three hundred 
thousand inhabitants, surpasses all other Japanese cities in 
interest. We spent six most delightful days there, in the hos- 
pitable home of Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Porter. The rail- 
road ride from Osaka carried us through a region of exquisite 
beauty and great fertility. But the city itself, with its temples, 



JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 449 

shops, and manufactories, where the finest Japanese art 
works are fashioned, diverted our minds, at least temporarily, 
from the serious amount of work which I undertook to do. 
Mr. Porter is one of the best equipped and most trusted mis- 
sionaries in Japan. It will be remembered that more than 
a year ago he rode on his bicycle over a cliff five hundred 
feet in height, and had an almost miraculous escape from 
death. I gave two lectures in the town hall, and had an 
opportunity of addressing many Buddhist priests, and the 
pleasure also of meeting the eloquent Mr. Hirai, who offered 
me a Japanese dinner, which I was unable to accept. Mr. 
Hirai, who spoke so powerfully at the World's Congresses, 
is now engaged in teaching children in Kyoto. On Sun- 
day I preached for the Japanese Presbyterian Church in 
the morning, and then at Dr. Davis's home delivered a ser- 
mon to the English-speaking attendants. In the evening I 
addressed an audience at one of the Kumai churches, where 
the Christians presented me with a book full of Japanese 
pictures. One evening at the home of Mrs. Porter I talked 
to the missionaries and others of my work in India, and 
I gave one lecture before the professors and students of the 
Doshisha University, of whose strange and checkered his- 
tory one hears so much in Japan. Mr. John R. Mott, the 
young evangelist who has been making a tour of the world, 
did excellent work at the Doshisha, and probably helped 
forward the movement for a change which will bring the 
University into some accord with Christian sentiment. One 
of the saddest experiences in the evangelization of Japan 
has been the persistent and successful effort of the Japanese 
Christians who have lost faith in evangehcal Christianity, to 
gain possession of the University and use it for ends which 
are abhorrent to the noble and benevolent American Chris- 
tians who have lavished their money upon the institution. 
It shows how undeveloped as yet is the Japanese moral 
sense, even of those who have become Christians, that this 
misuse of trust funds is so generally justified. It is believed, 
however, that a better day is coming ; and one cannot con- 

29 



45 O A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

verse with the Japanese Christian ministers and with the 
missionaries in Japan without being convinced that the ten- 
dency at present is toward a more positive Christianity. 
Outside of the Kumai churches there has been no general 
defection, and even they are returning to the faith. 

Every one who goes to Kyoto should witness the manu- 
facturing of cloisonnd, the most exquisite and wonderful 
work of that sort which is now done in any part of the 
world ; and of course American women will not fail to visit 
the great silk stores. Everybody must admire some features 
of Japanese civilization, and realize that in certain particu- 
lars the Japanese people are the most artistic in the world. 
I did not fall in love with Japanese temples, although they 
are a vast improvement upon the ugly and unclean shrines 
of India. 

We had a delightful morning visiting the new Buddhist 
temple, the costliest in Japan, which bears the name of the 
Higashi Hongwanji. The decorations of the chancel and 
shrine are gorgeous ; but the worshippers were not numer- 
ous, and the coins which were scattered on the mats were 
usually of the smallest size, the tenth of a sen. It was too 
cold to walk through this temple in stocking-feet, and ac- 
cordingly we went to a shop and purchased slippers, which 
were useful in our visit to the next great temple, the Nishi 
Hongwanji. Those who go to Kyoto must not fail to get 
the superb view from the Yaami Hotel on the steep hill- 
side, nor to visit the interesting shrine and the immense 
bell in this neighborhood, nor to see the colossal Diabutsu, 
Avhich is a big hollow mask of a thing, nor to vdsit the great 
Kuannon Temple, with thirty-three thousand three hundred 
and thirty-three bronze statues of the Goddess of Mercy. 
But time fails me to describe our visit to Nara, with its 
lovely park where the deer are so tame and the cryptomerias 
are so wonderful, and the Shinto Temple is so picturesquely 
situated. 

It was cherry-blossom time when we saw the old capital, 
and never shall I forget the magnificent cherry-tree which 





DAIBUTSU. 



JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 45 I 

we admired in the early evening, illuminated with electric 
lights and bonfires, near which the people had built booths, 
and where thousands had come to see the pink wonder. 
The finest of the cherry-trees have double blossoms, and 
all the famous trees are without fruit. But the admiration 
of the people for this floral marvel knows no limits, and all 
visitors become Japanese through beautiful sympathy. In 
Tokyo the display a week later in the parks was even more 
superb. In Kyoto, however, we had the pleasure of seeing 
the cherry-blossom dance, which lasted an hour. After re- 
moving our shoes, and entering the hall, we were served 
with tea and sweetmeats, and then went into the room 
where ten girls on each side played for us the drums and 
stringed instruments of the orchestra, while twenty others 
on each side filed in with cherry-blossoms on their dresses 
and in their hair and in their hands. The scenery was 
beautiful, the dance was simple posturing, and the whole 
scene seem.ed to be out of doors under a big cherry-tree. 

On Lake Bewa I spent a morning in the company of 
Reverend Zitsusen Ashitsu, one of the Buddhist priests who 
attended the Congress of Religions. Accompanied by Mr. 
Porter and six sons of missionaries, we rode by rail to Otsu, 
a little town where the attempt was made a few years ago 
on the life of the present Czar of Russia. Here we took 
jinrikishas around Lake Bewa and across the canal. The 
views of lake and mountain were picturesque and delightful 
in the extreme. We visited the famous pine-tree which 
spreads out over the ground for nearly two hundred 
feet, and then rode up to the Buddhist temple, where we 
inquired for the friend who had asked us to visit him. He 
had been waiting for us, and soon, clothed in his finest 
robes, he came out to meet us, and embraced me with 
genuine warmth. Holding my hand, he conducted us up 
the long path bordered with trees which led to his beautiful 
home, the outlook from which, over the placid lake and on 
toward the eastern mountains, is restful and lovely. Tea 
and sweets were served us, and chairs were brought in for 



452 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

the whole company. Our friend desired to make us com- 
fortable, after the American fashion, and we were not re- 
quired to sit upon our toes on the mats. After we were 
seated, according to the forms of Japanese politeness, we 
began a succession of bows ; but soon, through my friend 
and interpreter, I was able to begin a connected conversa- 
tion with the humane and intelligent disciple of Gautama. 
The missionary boys were given photographs of the Colum- 
bian Exposition to look at, and our Buddhist host was evi- 
dently happy to bring before us as much of America as 
possible. We had a long exchange of views about many 
things, and I was particularly pleased when Ashitsu informed 
me that since 1893 the Buddhists of Japan had a more 
friendly feeling toward Christianity and its representatives. 
He insisted on our eating luncheon in his rooms ; but as we 
had promised the boys a picnic, he had to be content with 
our using his yard, where he and other priests waited upon 
us, contributing some Japanese viands to the food which we 
had brought with us. We found it difficult to tear ourselves 
away from the gentle and hospitable soul who remembered 
America with such loving interest. This fourteenth of April 
was to me one of the supreme days in my journey round 
the world. It was a happy fulfilment of hopes which I en- 
tertained for years. 

That evening we reached Nagoya on our road to Yoko- 
hama, and the next morning our hostess, Mrs. Buchanan, 
conducted us round the castle, where we saw the parade- 
ground and the soldiers drilhng, cavalry and infantry manoeu- 
vring, or firing at targets. They are said to be excellent 
soldiers ; tough, brave Htde fellows, able to endure a great 
deal, and to climb like cats. Let no nation underrate the 
fighting quahties and effectiveness of the Japanese. But 
they look very oddly on horseback, and their uniforms seem 
ugly, adding to the natural unpleasantness of the features 
of the Japanese men. It was eleven o'clock that night 
when our train carried us through the pouring rain into the 
station at Yokohama, where we have been entertained with 



JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 453 

delightful hospitality by Reverend Mr. and Mrs. John L. 
Deering, Baptist missionaries, and by Reverend Mr. and 
Mrs. Henry Loomis. 

I made several addresses in Yokohama, took a ride 
round Mississippi Bay, and saw Treaty Point, but no 
Fuji as yet lifting his snow-white cone. Our six days in 
Tokyo were spent at the home of Reverend Mr. and Mrs. 
McNair, one of those homes which I deem points of light 
in Asia, more brilliant by reason of surrounding darkness 
or twilight. Here we met also Miss West, one of the most 
capable of missionaries. I shall not attempt to describe 
Tokyo, a city of interminable distances, flat and uninterest- 
ing in many parts of it, exceedingly beautiful in others, with 
cherry-trees and spacious grounds and gardens. We spent 
one morning at the University, and realized that Japan has 
captured from Germany, Great Britain, and America many of 
the intellectual elements of civilization. The Museums are 
large and interesting. The library is spacious ; the methods 
are those of the latest Western science. The most beautiful 
place in Tokyo is the famous Ueno Park, which we found 
full of people, gay with venders of toys and sweets, and 
with paths covered with "snow that never saw the sky." 
The cherry-trees were in their richest bloom, or slightly 
past it. The temples in the neighborhood of the Park were 
more thronged than any others I have seen in Japan. 

The most interesting day which I spent in Tokyo was at 
a reception given in the Botanical Gardens, where many 
men of many minds gave me cordial greeting, treating me 
to foods of many kinds. Christians, Buddhists, Shintoists, 
and Confucianists joined in a welcome which lasted for 
several hours. It was in a pavilion, or tea-house, and I 
was called upon to express my mind in regard to several 
religious questions. Reverend Mr. Yokoi, the newly elected 
president of Doshisha University, was there, and also Shi- 
bata, a high-priest of Shintoism, who attended the Parlia- 
ment in Chicago. After the reception we called, by 
invitation, on Count Inouy^, one of the leading Japanese 



454 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

Statesmen, now out of power, and had a delightful conver 
sation with him, his daughter, and his son-in-law. They all 
speak English well, and have most charming manners. The 
Count is one of the foremost makers of modern Japan, and 
will doubtless come back to power again. He deprecated 
the idea of Japan wishing to go to war with anybody, and 
expressed the conviction that she could not afford to do it 
at present. Before leaving Tokyo on Thursday, the twenty- 
second of April, I addressed a large company, perhaps one 
hundred and fifty missionaries, in the Union Church; 
among them such well-known veterans as Dr. Greene. 
They did not appear like a discouraged or disheartened 
company of people, but quite otherwise. In the evening of 
that day I addressed a similar company of Christian work- 
ers in Mr. and Mrs. Deering's home in Yokohama. This 
was my last address before leaving for America. 

The next day was given to preparations for the long voy- 
age, although in the afternoon we took a lovely trip to 
Kamakura, where we saw the stateliest and finest of all the 
Buddhas. It is a majestic figure, symbolizing intellectual 
peace, nearly fifty feet high and nearly one hundred feet 
in circumference. The thumb is three feet around. The 
curls on the head are eight hundred and thirty in num- 
ber. The eyes are said to be of pure gold, and the silver 
boss in the centre of the forehead weighs thirty pounds 
avoirdupois. But more impressive and memorable than 
the sight of this Buddha were the views we had that day of 
Fujiyama. The sacred mount of Japan has a charm all its 
own. It has the beauty of symmetry and whiteness, of lonely 
and sovereign majesty. It seems like a special creation of 
the Almighty to dominate with its stately loveliness the 
loveliest of Eastern lands, and to fill the hearts of its peo- 
ple with proud and happy thoughts. It is not appropriate 
to compare it with the Himalayas, for they are a mighty 
range of snowy heights far away from the centre of populous 
India. Here is a peak which stands out alone and is visi- 
ble from all sides of Dai Nippon, as the Japanese call their 



JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 455 

own land. I scarcely wonder that the people hold the 
mountain to be sacred, nor did I marvel that its glorious 
form is constantly reproduced in Japanese art. I took the 
vision of its beautiful summit as a prophecy of the time 
when this mountain of the gods shall be a mountain of the 
one true God, and look down upon a land whose people, 
Christianized, may contribute some of the finest and 
strongest forces toward the evangelization of Asia. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

HOME COMING. 

T T is a long way in space and time from Yokohama, which 
■^ we left on the twenty-fourth of April, to the island of 
Mackinac, in Northern Michigan, where my pilgrimage 
ended on the twenty-fifth of June. Quite a number of friends 
gave us a kindly send-off from that far Eastern port, the 
splendid gateway through which the tides of our Western 
civilization flowed in upon the Island Empire. I carried 
with me on board the ship " China " a copy of the " Japan 
Mail " of that day containing a valedictory address which 
I had sent out to Christian and non-Christian friends, a let- 
ter in which I took occasion to correct some wrong impres- 
sions which were formerly circulated in regard to the 
present strength of American Christianity. The ship was 
crowded with home-coming passengers, — missionaries from 
Burmah, China, Japan ; English ofificials returning to take 
part in the Victoria Diamond Jubilee ; the family of an 
American Consul ; members of Sir Robert Hart's Chinese 
Revenue Service ; merchants, travellers ; a German Admiral ; 
the courteous and very intelligent German Governor of the 
Marshall Islands ; and six hundred Chinese and four hun- 
dred Japanese workmen, bound for the Hawaiian Islands, 
the Nashville Centennial Celebration, and the ports of South 
America. After two days of rather dark and rough weather, 
the widest of oceans became delightfully smooth, and the 
warm air breathed through the constant sunshine. On 
Thursday, the twenty-ninth of April, we crossed the one 
hundred and eightieth meridian, and so the captain required 



HOME COMING. 457 

US to live that day over again. One Thursday was spent in 
the Eastern, and the second in the Western Hemisphere, 
one Asiatic and the other American. The passengers were 
usually in a very happy mood, and contributed in various 
ways to the general entertainment, through music, ath- 
letics, recitations, lectures, or sermons. My contribution 
was a sermon on the second Sunday morning, followed by 
a lecture on Shakespeare on the first of May. At noon on 
May second, we passed Bird Island, a prominent and pic- 
turesque rocky point over eight hundred feet high. And 
on the third of May we awoke to find ourselves near a 
most beautiful coast, and soon we entered the harbor of 
Honolulu. Reverend Dr. Charles Hyde, at the head of im- 
portant educational institutions in the Hawaiian Islands, 
came aboard the ship, and after my former parishioner, Dr. 
Day, the Health Inspector, had given us a clean bill, we were 
permitted to land and to inspect the chief city of the tiny 
republic. Accompanied by Dr. Hyde, we visited nearly 
every sort of educational and philanthropic institution pro- 
vided for the peoples of four races who inhabit the islands. 
Like other visitors, we realized that we were in the para- 
dise of the Pacific. The constant factor, climate, is here a 
friend to every human enjoyment ; and some American 
ladies who had spent two months in the islands and accom- 
panied us aboard the "China," declared that neither in 
Southern France, California, nor Egypt had they ever passed 
so delightful a winter. Whoever visits Honolulu should see 
the Museum, which contains the finest collection to be 
found anywhere of objects illustrating the life of the Pacific 
islanders. In the evening of our only day in Honolulu, I 
delivered a lecture in the Union Church, probably the only 
church on the earth where Christian work is carried on 
every Sunday in five languages, — English, Hawaiian, Portu- 
guese, Japanese, and Chinese. On the next morning our 
kindly host. Dr. Hyde, accompanied us to the government 
building and several other institutions, and then we em- 
barked again on the " China." 



458 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

We found in Honolulu more of America, more of its 
energy and spirit, than in any other community which I 
have seen in the World- Pilgrimage. If I were asked to 
name the place which I have seen in all the world where 
Christian civilization, as shown in general intelligence and 
morality and good-will among different races, in the abun- 
dance of schools, asylums, and churches, in general material 
prosperity, and in zealous devotion to the expansion of 
God's kingdom on earth, has reached its brightest manifes- 
tation, I should mention without a moment's hesitancy this 
tiny state in the Pacific, which Christian missions lifted out 
of savagery, and which, as it seems now probable, may soon 
be linked to the sisterhood of American commonwealths. 
I met several members of the Hawaiian government, and 
talked with quite a number of the leading citizens. Un- 
doubtedly the intelligence and morality of the community 
are strongly favorable to annexation. Of the strategic 
importance of the Hawaiian Islands, the key to the 
Northern Pacific Ocean, as the " London Times " has said, 
Americans are likely to learn something more in the near 
future. That recognized authority on naval warfare, Captain 
Mahan, has shown conclusively the imperative duty resting 
upon the United States of securing so important a factor 
in the defence of our coast line, and of protecting for all the 
future our rapidly growing interests in the Pacific world. 

It was a five days' voyage from Honolulu to the Golden 
Gate, which we entered on the tenth of May. In all the 
brilliant Orient I had seen nothing so grateful to my heart 
as the sight of my own country. The heart-hunger of the 
exile had been ours, notwithstanding all that we had expe- 
rienced of pleasure. In the Palace Hotel we received the 
warm greetings not only of San Francisco friends, but of 
many others far away whose letters waited to welcome us. 
The next afternoon I addressed the ministers of the city 
and Christian women interested in foreign missionary work, 
and by six o'clock in the evening we were on the ferry of 
the '' Overland Limited," and half an hour later were as 



HOME COMING. 459 

comfortably settled in our "section" as if we had never 
travelled outside of America. Through gardens and 
wheat-fields, over snowy heights, across wide deserts, climb- 
ing mountains again, and then down over the long, long 
plains, for three days we sped eastward, beholding a land 
where all the people seemed to us prosperous, and where 
our eyes were delivered from the sights which had saddened 
them in the East. It was on the fifteenth of May that we 
arrived at Rockford, Illinois, where we had the joy of meet- 
ing again the little children who had bravely and sometimes 
anxiously awaited our return. After six weeks of lecturing 
and preaching in Chicago, and a visit to Smith College, in 
Massachusetts, where we met our older children, the long- 
broken household was finally reunited on this pleasantest of 
islands. Under one roof at last, we recall the marvellous 
way in which we have been led. There is much talk of 
Europe and Egypt, of India and Japan, and of a thousand 
strange experiences. I am thankful that the work which 
took me from my home and country has been finished, and 
that once more I can feel myself an inhabitant as well as a 
citizen of America. 

Looking out on the - Straits of Mackinac from this 
fairest of Northern isles, I have leisure, while the winds are 
fanning the joyous leaves and the peewee is whistling his 
sweetly plaintive note, to five over the memorable days of 
the now completed World- Pilgrimage. The feeling of be- 
ing at home is very strong and pleasant, not only because 
the household has been reunited, but also for the reason 
that the land of the pine is, on the whole, more congenial 
than the palmy plains of the Orient. When Sindbad had 
finished an adventurous voyage, he usually resolved to re- 
main thereafter in Bagdad, — a resolution, happily for us, 
made only to be broken. But the only voyages which I 
now contemplate are those of memory and imagination, 
and I find that all my recollections are bathed and steeped 
in devout and loving gratitude to Him to whom belongeth 
the sea and whose hand formed the dry land. 



460 A WORLD-PILGBIMAGE. 

Many pictures pass before my vision, many voices come 
to my hearing, as I circumnavigate the globe once more. 
What leagues of ocean, placid as these waters, or tossed 
into tumbling crags of sapphire and emerald, smoothed 
with warm winds from tropic isles or chilled by blasts from 
rocky and Arctic shores, stretch on and on before my 
inner eye ! What dear and loving faces gather around us 
at the tearful hour of separation or the glad dawn of home- 
coming ! Numberless are the accents of kindness that 
float from many lands through these whispering leaves. 
And what a multitude of strange faces throng around this 
cottage, — faces first seen on the decks of many ships, in 
the halls of Paris or Cairo, or at the gates of far Eastern 
cities ! Once more the muezzin calls to prayer from the 
minarets of Delhi, and I hear again the Buddhist drums in 
the shrines of Ceylon and Japan. The waters of many 
rivers flash and murmur by. I see again the Rhine and 
the Weser, the Thames and the Tiber, the tvvinkhng and 
many-colored lights along the Seine and the willows that 
shade the Jordan, the palms that lift themselves on either 
bank of the Nile, the strange boats on the Yang-tse, the pil- 
grims and bathers in the waters of the Ganges, and the peer- 
less white dome reflected in the loving bosom of the 
Jumna. And what are these heights that rise out of the 
landscapes of memory? Men call them the Hartz and 
the Apennines, Sinai and Fujiyama, the Mountains of Moab, 
Adam's Peak, Kinchinjunga. " They are but the raised 
letters of the alphabet of infinity, whereby we, poor blind 
children of men, spell out the great name of God." And 
around the habitations of men, some little dorf in Germany, 
some prosperous city of England, Italy, or Japan, or some 
immemorial village of India, with unwritten laws and cus- 
toms more ancient than the statutes of Manu or Moses, or 
about some planter's home in the neighborhood of Kandy 
or Darjeeling, what fields of wheat and tea and millet, or 
vivid rice or tasselled corn, stretch on and on before the 
gaze of memory 1 Sitting on this bench four years ago, 



HOME COMING. 46 1 

I meditated and wrote the address of welcome which I 
delivered before the representatives of twelve hundred 
milhons gathered at the World's Parliament of Religions. 
The thought and purposes embodied in that address and in 
that gathering broke the strong ties which held ,me to 
church and city and sent me as a pilgrim around the world. 
And now, sitting here again, looking at the same sparkling 
waters and shaded by the same fragrant boughs, the great 
world of religion, with its many-costumed representatives, 
rises before me. I hear the beautiful choirs in English 
cathedrals ; I lift up my eyes to Giotto's Tower in Florence, 
and see again the fragments of the Parthenon ; I hear the 
dervishes in their wild and woful chants ; I walk by the 
pyramids, enter the sacred tombs of Memphis, meditate 
once more on the Mount of Olives, stand beneath the 
domes of churches which rebuke and confound in their 
majesty all earthly pride ; converse with scholars in Oxford 
or Benares ; watch the solemn idolaters in the bat-infested 
temple of Madura or the lighter-hearted pilgrims who in 
Japan call upon Amida- Buddha ; or lift up my voice in 
Madras or Tokyo in the name of the Universal Man and 
Saviour, and thank God that I have learned to love and 
pity the children of many faiths, and to believe that the 
less perfect may be prophecies of that fulness of truth and 
grace which are found in the Son of God. 

The human world, as the traveller remembers it, is one of 
bewildering variety. I think now of clothes as well as 
of faces, of foods and drinks as well as of forms and colors, 
of houses as well as of national and religious distinctions, 
ambitions, and interests. And yet, underneath these varie- 
ties what unities are discovered ; what common needs, 
fears, hopes, and aspirations ! Humanity, whether it is 
found among the Chinese coolies on the Bund in Shanghai 
or the Chowringee Road in Calcutta, the Champs Elys^es 
or the Unter den Linden, whether it walks the Strand or 
the Corso, the Via Dolorosa of Jerusalem or the Galata 
Bridge of Constantinople, possesses an essential oneness 



462 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

which augmenting numbers of people are coming to recog- 
nize. I feel the solidarity of mankind as never before. 
Distant peoples do not seem so distant, either in space or 
in character. As I know that , I can go all the way by 
water from this island to the island of Sicily or Ceylon, so 
my heart, when true to its higher instincts, reaches out in a 
sympathy unbroken by diverse creeds and conditions to the 
plague-smitten sufferers in Bombay, the starving children 
in Jubbelpore, and to the millions bound by supersti- 
tions in Africa and China. Every Board of Trade recog- 
nizes a community of interests the world over ; every 
student of history and poUtical economy perceives some 
interdependence among nations. Hundreds of travellers 
in the East and Far East have seen how much Great 
Britain has done to bring the Oriental nations, through 
trade and language, into touch with the Western world. 
But besides all this, and more than all this, I have come to 
feel the growing universalism of Christianity, and the rapid 
acceptance by multitudes in Asia of the truths of Divine 
fatherhood and human fraternity. The time has passed 
by for provincialism of thought and provincialism of feeling. 
The Victorian era marks a vast enlargement of the realm 
of human sympathy, even if many of those who through 
commerce, war, or science have widened man's moral and 
intellectual realm appear themselves both hard and narrow. 
Like others from the beginning of time, they are building 
better than they know. The missionary is sowing the 
furrows in the Orient, upturned by the ploughshare of 
wicked war. The commercial and political ambitions and 
rivalries of Russia and England, of France and Germany, 
of Japan and China, are helping to break up the sluggish- 
ness and seclusion of the East, and both the Orient and the 
Occident share in that widening of thought which comes 
with the process of the suns. 

I have returned home with an increasing sense of the 
value of America in the evangelization of Asia. Emerged 
at last from the backwoods of theology, having cleared her 



HOME COMING. 463 

skirts from the stain of slavery, delivered with wonderful 
rapidity from provincialism of spirit in the last thirty years 
of commercial and intellectual expansion, instructed by 
that religion which has moulded her best life to spread its 
benign influences everywhere, America is coming to be 
regarded as a missionary force of the highest quality and 
greatest power. In the whole course of my travel from 
Constantinople to Honolulu I felt the presence and benefi- 
cent influence of the men and women who represent Ameri- 
can Christianity. Other Christian nations in the East stand 
for something else than unselfish philanthropy. The Brit- 
ish occupation of India, while an incalculable blessing to 
that country, has awakened much besides gratitude in the 
Hindu heart. English missionaries sometimes confess 
their inability to win the affections of those to whose up- 
lifting they have gladly given their lives. They frequently 
said to me, " You Americans have an advantage over us." 
Immense and increasing are the responsibilities resting 
upon the Christians in America to enter vigorously into the 
Christian conquest of Asia. 

I saw and learned nothing to justify the sweeping criti- 
cism that missions are doing more harm than good in 
China. And while not all missionaries are wise, and 
Christian work in the Orient reflects the imperfections of 
the churches in the Occident, I have returned home with 
a deeper conviction that our Christian representatives in 
Asia stand for that intellectual and moral force and spiritual 
vitahty which seem to have passed out of the much-praised 
Eastern faiths. Still, the divisions of Christendom, the 
cruel and revengeful belligerency of European nations, and 
the average character of the European populations in the 
Orient are fearful hindrances to the rapid spread of the 
Gospel. One cannot praise very highly the Anglo-Indian 
character, especially as it displays itself in the port-cities 
of Asia. The English are the great civilizers, but what 
crimes and miserable blunders have characterized their 
occupation of India ! Perhaps no other nation would have 



464 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

done so well, and one shudders at the calamities which 
would inevitably follow the English withdrawal from India. 
An English novehst describes her people as one " that lives 
to make mistakes and dies to retrieve them." A wiser and 
less selfish policy must increasingly characterize Great 
Britain's dominion in the Orient, if the British Empire is to 
justify fully Mr. Curzon's eulogy of it as, " under Provi- 
dence, the greatest instrument for good the world has seen." 
I do not undervalue that empire, and a voyage around the 
world does not lessen one's sense of England's importance 
and of the general beneficence of her rule. 

In my memories of our finished journey I can scarcely 
recall a half-score disagreeable experiences. How wide 
and beautiful is the domain of kindness, and what favor- 
ing Providences marked our circuit of the globe ! In 
eighty-four days of sea-travel we never knew a moment's 
sickness ; in all my land journeyings I never missed a train 
or an appointment. How marvellous have been the tri- 
umphs of man over the forces of Nature 1 The steamship 
appears to me a more wonderful achievement to-day than 
when I set sail from New York. The international postal 
system is a potent and astonishing force in unitizing peoples 
as well as in adding to the comforts of travel. And what 
prodigious things man has already wrought ! Think of India 
covered with railroads, climbing her mountains and bind- 
ing together her cities ! Think of the cathedrals, mosques, 
and temples which the instinct of worship has reared, 
of the tunnels and bridges and aqueducts, the quays and 
factories and Government Houses, the hospitals, universities, 
the law-courts, the forts, the armies, the battleships, the 
banks and boulevards, the vv'ide-extended fields and 
orchards and gardens, and all the other facts and material 
achievements which make up at least the external forms of 
civilization ! Think of the Sacred Books of the East, among 
the greatest monuments of the past ! Think of the Chris- 
tian missionary and educational forces, with their schools, 
dispensaries, churches, printing-presses, vernacular litera- 



HOME COMING. 465 

tures, and all their wide -reaching plans for the conquest of a 
continent, though the campaign may last a thousand years ! 
Think of the love, hope, energy, patience, self-sacrifice, 
faith, and far-reaching wisdom which, notwithstanding all 
the weaknesses, sins, and pathetic sufferings of earth's 
millions, characterize so much of human life ! Through 
Christianity and its conquests the law of progress has 
become the law of the race. Men are brothers, and are 
coming to believe it. God's fatherhood is the sky over- 
arching all, and men are coming to see it. The race is not 
doomed. Each new day is the best day of history. The 
eyes of men are more and more turned to the teaching and 
person and kingdom of Jesus Christ. The twentieth cen- 
tury will be more Christian than the nineteenth. Through 
wars, upheavals, disasters, and temporary reverses, the 
moral elements are coming to the front. Religion is yet to 
exercise a far more humanizing and unifying influence over 
discordant peoples. May those who a few years hence in 
the French Capital may meet together as worshippers of 
God and lovers of men, be given courage and v/isdom to 
speak forth boldly for all the highest things of the spirit 
which make for peace, purity, mutual trust, expanding 
knowledge, and broad and cosmopohtan sympathy ! May 
God give a multitude of men a world- embracing charity 
and a world-conquering faith ! Then the divine event 
toward which creation moves, may not be so far off. Then 
nations may abandon the infamy of war, and the whole 
round world, which Faith now sees bound securely to the 
loving feet of God, may enter upon an age of brotherhood 
and of peace. 

It is the sea which marries the continents, and as with 
thoughts of the sea my journey began, so with dreams of the 
sea these records end. Here in the heart of America, on 
this green isle, round which once swarmed the painted 
canoes of savages and the fur-laden barks of voyageurs, on 
this restful day brimmed with sunshine, memory, love, and 
imagination carry my spirit away over the wide and ancient 

30 



466 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. 

main around whose coasts dwell the nations, over whose 
surface by all the watery paths a thousand steamers are now 
straining shoreward, — the sea which remains man's ever- 
lasting friend and his best symbol of eternity. 

" Hence in a season of calm weather, 

Though inland far we be, 
Our souls have sight of that immortal sea 

Which brought us hither. 

Can in a moment travel thither, 
And see the children sport upon the shore 
And hear the mighty waters roaring evermore." 



INDEX. 



INDEX. 



Abydos, 238. 

Acropolis, 232-233, 236. 

Acrostic Sonnet, 40S. 

Adams, Samuel, 32. 

Aden, 320, 321. 

Adolphus, Gustavus, 136, 138. 

Ad5-ar, 403. 

Agra, 3S3-388 ; fort, 385 ; Taj Mahal, 
3S5-388. 

Ahmednagar, 394 ; missions in, 394, 
395 ; baptism in, 395. 

Ajmere, 391. 

Akbar, Mogul Emperor, 370, 383 ; 
Congress, 383 ; tomb, 384. 

Albani Kirche, 29, 44. 

Alexandria, 279-281; influences from, 
280 ; Greek patriarch of, 312-313. 

Allahabad, 327. 

Amber, 390-391. 

Ameer Ali, Honorable Justice, con- 
versation with, 345 ; decision of, 
356. 

America, ignorance about, 105-106. 

American, athletics, 105 ; baseball, 
106; breakfast, 37; celebration of 
Fourth of July, 103-109; children 
educated abroad, 95 ; citizen, first 
interest of, 36 ; college and university 
contrasted with German university, 
86-88, 92 ; colony of Gottingen, 
40, 41, 103, 104, 162 ; eagle, 107 ; 
do., story of, 108 ; election, 247 ; 
fleet, 247 ; football, 90 ; interest 
in Wilhelmshohe, 102; literature 
known by French ladies, 58 ; patri- 



otism abroad, 105 ; popular tunes, 
106; soldiers, 105 ; stories, 58 ; stu- 
dent, 86, 87 ; teeth, 37 ; travellers 
in Europe, 41 ; women on bicy- 
cles, 43. 

America's, influence in Missions, 462- 
463 ; place, 63. 

Americans, at German Universities, 
92, 95 ; at Saratoga and Newport, 
119; duty, loS ; lacking in culture, 
115; living abroad, 97; politics, 
115; popular in Gottingen, 39; re- 
garded as oddities, 40. 

Amritsar, 381-382. 

Amsterdam, 33. 

Angelo, Michael, 21 1-2 12 ; " Fettered 
Slaves " of, 60. 

Areopagus, 234. 

Armenia, 55. 

Armenian, meeting, 178, 179; Patri- 
arch, 274. 

Arminius, 33. 

Arnold, Matthew, 26, 

Art, Dutch, 97, 99. 

Ashitsu, Reverend Zitsusen, visit to, 
451-452, 

Asia, conquests of Gospel in, 54. 

Asoka, pillar of, 328. 

Assyut, college at, 307. 

Athens, 227-237; Acropolis, 232-236; 
national museum, 230 ; Parthenon, 
233 ; picturesque scenes, 229. 

Athletics in German universities, 91. 

Atlantic modern steamship, 11. 

Augusta, Empress, 154. 

Aurangzeb, Mogul Emperor, 32S ; 
mosque of, 328-329. 



470 



INDEX. 



B. 

Bach, Sebastian, Passion music, 126 ; 
statue, 126. 

Bancroft, 27, 31. 

Bangalore, 39S ; reception in, 398-399. 

Banurji, K. C, 352-353. 

Baron de Schickler, 38, 70, 72. 

Barton, Clara, 244. 

Bebra, 126. 

Beirut, Dr. Van Dyck of, 311. 

Beisskatze, 116. 

Benares, bathers in, 333-334 ; bathing 
Ghats, 331 ; Buddha in, 340 ; burn- 
ing Ghats, 334; busy days in, 331 ; 
college of, 336 ; cow temple, 335 ; 
golden temple, 335 ; holy man of, 
340; journey to, 328-341; London 
Mission, 329 ; monkey temple, 335 ; 
opium of, 433 ; Queen's College, 
338; scenes in, 339; second saint 
in, 337; Well of Knowledge, 339. 

Beraud's " La Pouss6," 65, 66. 

Berkshires, no. 

Berlin, cabs, 151 ; compared with 
Chicago, 148; exposition, 152; gal- 
leries, 153-154; great names of, 
150; Hasenheide, 151; Hohenzol- 
lern Museum, 153; Kunstaustel- 
lung, 152, 153; Old Palace, 154; 
omnipresent soldier, 149 ; Parlia- 
ment House, 151 ; police, 148; Se- 
dan Day, 149; streets, 150, 151; 
synagogue, 154; taxometer, 151; 
University, 150; Unter den Lin- 
den, 149. 

Berthelot, M., 67, 68. 

Bethany, 266, 267. 

Bethlehem, 275-27S. 

Bicycles, 43. 

Bismarck, at Gottingen, 28 ; limita- 
tions, 166; speech in the Reichstag, 
120; to future generations, 34; 
tower, 28, 33. 

Bliss, Dr., excavations of, 273. 

Blois, 75-Si. 

Bodethal, 118. 

Boettiger, 145. 

Bombay, American Mission in, 324- 
325; garlands in, 324; plague in, 
324; reception in, 325; Victoria 
Station, 325, 326; welcome at, 324. 



Bonet-Maury, Professor G., 51, 73. 

Bourgeois, M., 57. 

Bose, Miss, 353. 

Bosporus, 239. 

Boston, library, frescos for, 56; Oc- 
tet, 137; Old State House of, 33; 
walk across the Common, 30. 

Bourget, Paul, 69. 

Brahman, converted, 330. 

Bremen, 21, 22, 31, 163; Rathskel- 
ler, 163. 

Bremerhaven, 19, 21, 98. 

Bremke, 103. 

Bremker Thai, 104, 106. 

British Medical Jewish Mission, 274. 

Brocken, i 19-123. 

Browning, 98 ; Elizabeth, 205 ; Hall, 
180, 181. 

Brunetiere, 67. 

Brusttuch, 115. 

Bryan, 114. 

Bryce, Professor James, 19, 114. 

Buddha in Benares, 340. 

Buddhism, High Priest of, 428. 

Buddhism in Darjeeling, 365. 

Burdett-Coutts, Baroness, 68, 69. 

Burgberg, 120. 

Biirger, 93. 

Burg Grona, 31, 33, 88. 

Byron, 229, 232, 23S. 



Cable, George W., 58. 

Caesar, Julius, 17. 

Caine, W. S., 329, 334, 397, 

Cairo, 282-2S6, 299-315 ; Greek Ba- 
silica, 305 ; howling dervishes, 302 ; 
Moslem University, 302-305 ; street 
pictures, 300. 

Calame, 139. 

Calcutta, Beadon Square, 355 ; begin- 
nings of, 342 ; Bethune College for 
■women, 344, 353, 354 ; Black Hole 
of, 347 ; enlargem.ent of, 343 ; im- 
pression regarding Lectureship, 349 ; 
Jain temples, 347 ; Kali Ghat, 347 ; 
kindnesses received in, 348-349; 
Principal Morrison of, 347, 351 ; 
reception by Missionary Conference 
of, 33S; reception in, 344; recep- 



INDEX. 



471 



tion, Maharajah's, 349-351 ; scenes 
in, 346-347; St. Andrew's Church, 

359- 

Cambridge, 1S5-187. 

Canning, George, 107. 

Canossa, 120. 

Canterbury, Cathedral of, 187. 

Cantonments, English, 370. 

Capri, 220. 

Carlyle, 154. 

Carnot, Hall of, 56. 

Carpenter, J. Estlin, iSi, 182, 1S5. 

Cascades at Wilhelmshohe, loi. 

Cassel, 97-103. 

Catherine de Medicis, 80-81. 

Catholic Church in Italy, 216. 

Cawnpore, juggler in, 368; massacre 
at, 367-36S ; memorial church, 368. 

Cecil, Hotel, 177. 

Cenchrea, 226. 

" Cephalonia," 223-224. 

Ceylon, 417-430. 

Chamberlain, Dr. Jacob, 399. 

Chambord,-78, 79. 

Charbonnel, Abbe, 73. 

Charlemagne, 29, 34, 54. 

Charles v., 78,82. 

Charlottenburg, 154. 

Chartres, 191-197; Black Virgin of, 
192 ; pilgrims to, 193. 

Charybdis, 223. 

Chatterjea, B. L., 353. 

Cherith brook, 268. 

Chicago, 22, 41 ; compared with Ber- 
lin, 14S-150; University, 150. 

China, coasts of, 431-441 ; native pop- 
ulation of, 433; opium traffic of, 
436- 

"China," steamship, 456. 

Chinese representative, 62. 

"Christ in the Temple," 144; and the 
"rich young ruler," 144. 

Christian Endeavor, conventions of, 
47; meeting, 377. 

Christian Literature Society, 425. 

Church of the Nativity, 276. 

Clark, Dr. Francis E., 191, 370, 373, 

yn, 404- 

Clausthal, 113. 
Clough, Arthur H., 205. 
Coimbatore, 409. 
Coleridge, 27, no, 112 



Coligni, 54. 

Cologne Cathedral, 49-50, 58. 

Colombo, 418-419 ; lectures, 427 ; 

missionary conference of, 423. 
Columbian Exposition, 49. 
Comparative Theology, study of, 427. 
Constantinople, 239-244 ; massacres, 

241 ; picturesque scenes, 240. 
Cook, Joseph, 398. 
Cook, Thomas, 222, 315. 
Coolies, Chinese, 437. 
Coptic University, 310. 
Corinth Canal, 225-226. 
Cotta, Frau Ursula, 131. 
Cranach, Lucas, 130, 133. 
Croiset, Professor, 56. 
Cromer, Lord, 312. 
Crusaders, 263. 
Cuba, 107. 

Custom House, German, 21. 
Cyril, Patriarch, 310, 



D. 



Dagnan-Bouveret's "Last Supper," 

65. 
Dardanelles, 238. 
Darjeeling, 362-365. 
David's Tomb, 271. 
Dead Sea, 269, 
Deal, 17. 
Declaration of Independence, 103, 

104. 
Decorations during journey, 254. 
Delhi, 370-375 ; Asoka's pillar, 374; 

Jumna Musjid, 371, 373 ; Kohinoor, 

372 ; Kutub Mmar, 374-375 ; Pearl 

Mosque, 371. 
Depew, Chauncey M., 58. 
Deschamps, Louis, 66. 
Desjardins, Arthur, 61, 62. 
Dharmapala, 68, 182, 183, 219; home 

of, 428. 
Douy, Gerard, 99. 
Dover, 174. 
Doyle, Conan, 82. 
Dresden, 139-146; Bruhl Terrace, 140; 

gallery, 142-143; Green Vaults, 141 ; 

opera, 140; pension, 139; Sistine 

Madonna, 140, 141, 142, 143 ; tram- 



472 



INDEX. 



way system, 140; ware, 145; Zwinger, 
142. 
Duelling in German universities, 88- 
90. 



E. 



Easter bonfires, 34. 

Eddy, Clarence, 82. 

Eddystone, 17. 

Education of American children 
abroad, 95. 

Egypt, 279-316 ; compared with Pal- 
estine, 2S2 ; flies in, 301 ; Khedive, 
312; Patriarch of, 310; weather of, 

314- 

Egyptian railway stations, 231. 

Eisenach, 126-131. 

El Aksa, 262, 264. 

Elbe, 33. 

Eleusis, 228, 230, 231. 

Elisha's Fountain, 270, 271. 

Ely, Cathedral of, 187. 

Emerson, 27, 58, 103. 

Emperor of Germany, 54, loi, 127, 

Empress Josephine, 52, 82. 

England, 174-189; first sight of, 17. 

England's Asiatic policy, 436. 

England's love to America, iS, 19. 

English, advantage in educating chil- 
dren abroad, 95; novelties in the 
Salon catalogue, 64, 65. 

Ephesus, 248. 

Equatorial heat, 430. 

Erfurt, 132. 

Europe, an armed camp, 53, 197; 
war in, 54. 

Es Seyd El-Bakri, 314. 

Everett, 27, 31. 

Ewald, 93. 

Ewing, Dr. J. C. R., 376, 378. 



F. 

Fairbairn, Principal, 182. 

Famine in India, 326. 

Farrar, Dean, 1S7, 188. 

Fichte, 13S. 

Florence, art galleries, 205-209 ; cathe- 
dral, 206 ; churches, 208 ; graves, 
205 ; journey to, 203. 



Fontan^s, Reverend Ernest, 68, 74. 
Football versus dueUing, 90. 
Foreman College, spirit of, 379, 380. 
Foreman, Dr., 378-379. 
Fourth of July in Gottingen, 103-109. 
France, a little tour in, 75-83 ; Insti- 
tute of, 60; University of, 55, 57. 
Francis I., 78, So. 
Franco-Scottish Society, meeting of, 

55, 56, 57- 

Frankfort, 31, 39. 

Frederick, Barbarossa, 118, 128, 129; 
Second, 98; the Great, 154; the 
Wise, 130; William III, 154. 

Fremantle, Dean, 185. 

French, army, 53 ; knowledge of Amer- 
ican literature, 58; martial airs, 57; 
outdoor enjoyment, 52 ; renaissance, 
80 ; revolution, 78 ; school system, 
53 ; students, company of, 63. 

Fujiyama, 454-455. 

Fulda, 98. 

Fuller, Henry B., 41. 



Galata Bridge, 239. 

Ganges, bathing in, 332 ; beggars of, 
334 ; pilgrims to, 328. 

Geismar, Thor, 29. 

George III., 98. 

Georgia, Augusta University, 93. 

Gerhardt, Paul, hymn by, 45. 

German, advantages for Americans, 
95 ; Americans, 20 ; beds, 38 ; bills, 
160-161 ; capital, 14S-155 ; care of 
forest land, iii ; church life, 171; 
classics, 137; concert garden, 40; 
custom house, 21 ; deference to offi- 
cial rank, 39 ; distaste for agitation, 
167 ; duelling customs, 88 ; empire, 
118; do., Bismarck chief builder 
of, 28; emperor, 54, 127; empress, 
170; faith, 117; food, 37-38; gym- 
nasium, 86; hymns, 45, 47; igno- 
rance of America, 105-106; Ka- 
nonenschlager, 106; language, 159- 
160 ; life, first impressions of, 36- 
48 ; do., picturesqueness of, 42 ; 
meals, 37, 38 ; men superior beings, 
43 ; paternal government, 165 ; peas- 



INDEX, 



473 



ant women, 38; preaching, 172; 
professor, 92, 93, 95, 96; do., 
invincible energy of, 28-85 > ''^''" 
ways, 125-126; schools, 29; scep- 
tical scholarship, 95 ; servants, 20, 
38 ; service, 38 ; soldiers, 29, 41, 42, 
46 ; stoves, 38 ; student compared 
with American, 92 ; students, 86, 87 ; 
trains, 21; treatment of Heine, 113; 
universities, 84-96 ; use of dogs, 43 ; 
virtue of cleanliness, 37 ; women, 
38, 169-171. 

Germans, curiosity of, 43 ; economy 
of, 39 ; national beverage of, 41 ; po- 
liteness of, 42 ; scarred faces, 42 ; 
sentimentalism of, 16 ; street cus- 
toms of, 42, 43. 

Germany, America's teacher, 169 ; a 
naval power, 13 ; government of, 
95; in classic, 125-148; pohtical 
development of, 168 ; unification of, 

5°-. 
Gervinus, 93. 

Ghizeh Museum, 283-285. 

Goethe, II2-, 122, 133, 135, 136, 137; 
busts, 135 ; " Hermann and Doro- 
thea," 138 ; homes, 134-137 ; room, 

'33- 

Gordon, General, 258. 

Goshen, land of, 316. 

Goslar, 11 3-1 18. 

Gdttingen, 24-48, 103-109, 156-163; 
Albani Kirche, 29, 44 ; auditorium 
of, 31; besieged by Tilly, 98, 157; 
bicycles in, 43 ; Bismarck at, 28 ; 
botanical gardens, 29 ; cafe national 
of, 37 ; Career, 156; dailies of, 37 ; 
early history of, 32 ; Fourth of July 
celebration in, 103-109; great 
Americans in, 27-28 ; great men 
of, 93-94 ; Heine's description of, 
27 ; horses of, 39 ; Jacobi Kirche, 
32; Johannis Kirche, 32; library, 
92, 159 ; museum of antiquities, 156 ; 
music in, 40; neighboring castles, 
157-158; Rathhaus of, 33,42; Re- 
formirte Kirche of, 44 ; Stadt Park 
of, 40, 41 ; student societies, 92 ; the 
wall of, 25 ; University of, 84-96 ; 
valorous burghers of, 33. 

Grant Bey, Dr., 299. 

Greek, discussion of, 56. 



Grimm, Jacob, 93, 98. 
Grimm, VVilhelm, 98. 
Guise, Grand Duke of, 81. 

H. 

Hals, Frans, 99. 

Hamelin, 98. 

Hanotaux, M., 67. 

Hanover, 31, -!,•] -^ Province of, 36 ; Re- 
formed Church of, 44. 

Hart, J. M., 25. 

Hartz, 22, 28, 31, 32, 39; canaries, 
121; charm, no; club, in; moun- 
tains, 110-124; poets, 112; val- 
leys, 118. 

Harzburg, 118, 119. 

Haskell, Mrs., 359, 429. 

Havel, 12, 20, 154. 

Hawaiian Islands, 457-458; condi- 
tion of, 458. 

Hegel, 1 38. 

Heidelberg, duelling at, 88. 

Heine, 26, 27, 75, 112, 113, 115, 116, 
118, 119, 123. 

" Helen's Babies," 40. 

Henry I., 25. 

Henry HI., Si. 

Henry IV., 117, 120. 

Henry of Navarre, 80. 

Hercules, Farnese, loi, 102. 

Herder, 132 ; room, 134. 

Hermann, 33. 

Hessen, Elector of, loi. 

Heyne, Professor, 93. 

Higginson, 58. 

Hofmann, 143, 144. 

Holland, 19, 28, 56. 

Holmes, 27. 

Holy Fire, 259. 

Holy Land, fertility, 267 ; first sight 
of, 252. 

Holy Roman Empire, 33, 114. 

Hong Kong, 435-439; dampness of, 
43S. 

Honolulu, 457-458; Christian work in, 

457. 
Horselberg, 130. 
Hosanna Road, 266. 
Hotel de Ville of Paris, 63. 
Huguenot Library, 70. 
Hume, Robert A., D.D., 394. 



474 



INDEX. 



Ilsenburg, 113, 118. 

Use thai, 123. 

Immortality, Egyptian belief in, 298. 

Impressionists in Paris salons, 66. 

India, 323-41 S; domestic arrange- 
ments, 348 ; famine, first sight of, 
326, 372-373; farewell to, 417-418; 
first view of, 323 ; missions in, 352; 
picturesque colors in, 327 ; railways, 
375-376; servants, 325; temple 
immoralities, 354. 

India Lectureship, 73 ; in Calcutta, 
349; in Colombo, 427; in Lahore, 
381; in Madras, 406-407; value of, 
423-425. 

Indian, National congress, 344, 345, 
346; people's grievances, 346. 

Indore, 391-394; Canadian Presby- 
terian Mission, 392; elephant ride 
in, 393; Maharajah of, 393; opium 
trade in, 392. 

Inland Sea, 44T. 

Inouye, Count, 453-454. 

Ireland, Archbishop, 69. 

Isle, Princess, story of, 123. 

Ismailiya, 316. 

Italy, 198-223; beggars of, 222; en- 
trance to, 200; great men of, 199; 
importance of, 198; Roman Catho- 
lic Church in, 216. 



J- 



Jacob blessing the children of 

Joseph, 100. 
Jacobi Kirche, 32. 
James II., tomb of, 52. 
James, Henry, 75, 76. 
Japan, 441-455 ; Joseph Cook in, 

444 ; passports in, 445 ; " So- 

dan," 445. 
Japanese representatives, 62. 
Jeanne d'Arc, 57, 81. 
Jena, 39, 133, 137; battlefield of, 13S ; 

duelling at, 88; great men of, 138. 
Jericho, 266, 26S. 
Jerusalem, 252-262 ; changes, 254 ; 

Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 256, 



260; Dome of the Rock, 263, 264; 
excavations, 265 ; girls' school, 261 ; 
increase in population, 254; Jewish 
temples, 262 ; missionary work in, 
255; money, 256; New Calvary, 
258; spurious relics, 260; street 
scenes, 256-257; Via Dolorosa, 260. 

Jerusalem Chamber, iSo. 

Jews' wailing-place, 271-272. 

Jeypore, 3S9-391 ; description of, 389; 
Hall of Winds, 390 ; prime minister 
of, 389. 

Jinrikishas, 447. 

Johannis Kirche, 32. 

John the Baptist's birthplace, 273. 

Johnson, Samuel, 18, iii. 

Jones, J. P., D.D., 414. 

Joppa, 252. 

Jordaens, 99. 

Jordan, fords of, 270. 

Jowett, Professor, 185. 



K. 

Kaaba, the, 319. 

Kahn, Zadoc, 58, 72. 

Kamakura, 454. 

Kandy, Buddhist temple of, 420 ; 

journey to, 418-420. 
Keats, 214. 
Khedive, 314. 
Kinchinjunga, 364. 
Kingsley against Newman, 1S3. 
Kipling, Rudyard, 445. 
Klein, Abbe F61ix, 69. 
Klein, Professor, 93. 
Kobe, 442-447; Daibutsu of, 443; 

lecture in, 443. 
Kuch Behar, Maharani of, 357. 
Kultus minister, 30, 84. 
Kyoto, 44S-45 1 ; cherry blossoms of, 

451; cloisonne of, 450; Daibutsu 

of, 450; new Buddhist temple in, 

450. 



Lahore, 376-3S1 : boys' school in, 
3S0; lecture in, 3S1. 



INDEX. 



475 



Landor, Walter S., 205. 

Larned, Walter, 79. 

Leine, 28, 32, 33. 

Leipsic, battle, 138; book trade, 138; 
buildings, 138. 

Leonardo de Vinci, 202-203. 

Leroy-Beaulieu, 61, 71, 73. 

Lewis tlie Springer, 126. 

Leyden, 33. 

Lily Cottage, 357,358. 

Liszt, 129, 134. 

Lodiana, 376, 377. 

" Lohengrin," first heard, 134, 

Loire, ']'j. 

London, 176-181; lodgings, 177; na- 
tional portrait gallery, 179; omni- 
buses, 176, 177. 

Longfellow, 27. 

Lotze, 28. 

Louis XII., 79, So. 

Louis XIV., 78. 

Louise, Queen, 154. 

Louvre, 55, 60. 

Lowell, 19, 27, hi; "Cathedral," 
49, 191, 197. 

Lucknow, residency, 366 ; siege of, 367. 

Luther, Martin, 126, 137, 146; as 
Junker Georg, 130, 131 ; " Ein' feste 
Burg," 127; house, 147; monument, 
131; room, 129. 

Lydda, 252. 



M. 

Macdonald, Reverend Dr., 341, 355; 
address of, 351. 

Mackenzie, Sir Alexander, conversa- 
tion with, 344. 

Mackichan, Principal, 396. 

Mackinac Island, 121, 459. 

Madonna in Louvre, 60. 

Madras, Hindu chairman in, 405-406; 
printing lectures in, 406 ; reception 
in, 405,407; religious procession in, 
404; welcome to, 402, 403-407. 

Madura, 414-416; garlands of, 414. 

Magenta, battlefield, 201. 

Mahmudiyeh Canal, 280. 

Malabar coast, 410; fashions of, 413, 
414. 



Malmaison, 52. 

Mansard, 80. 

Mareotis Lake, 281. 

Mariette Bay, 296, 297. 

Marina, 403. 

Marutee, farewell to, 428, 429. 

McAll Mission, 54. 

McKinley, 114, 247, 248. 

Meaux, Vicomte de, 52, 71. 

Mediterranean, 223-224. 

Meissen, 144; Schloss, 144. 

Melanchthon, 133, 146. 

Memphis, 293, 294. 

Mera, tomb of, 294. 

Mesolonghi, 224. 

Messageries steamers, passengers on, 
321, 322. 

Mexican sailors, 108. 

" Midnight Sun," departure from, 220, 
279. 

Milan, Cathedr-al of, 201-202; art 
gallery, 203. 

Miller, Dr. William, 407. 

Millet, 76. 

Minnesingers, 126, 129, 131. 

Missions, American, in Bombay, 324- 
325; do., in Cairo, 306-309; Arcot, 
399; Ben Oliel, 274; British Medical, 
Jewish, 274; Canadian Presbyterian 
in Indore, 392 ; Christian impor- 
tance of, 426-427; Church, in Tin- 
nevelly, 415; in Ahmednagar, 394- 
395; in India, 352; in Jerusalem, 
255; London, Benares, 329; Pasa- 
mulai American, 415 ; Presbyterian, 
in Lodiana, 376-377. 

Mohammed, 264. 

Mohammed All, 2S0. 

Mohammedanism, birthplace of, 318; 
Turkish, 243. 

Moliere's, " Bourgeois Gentilhomme," 

Mont Cenis tunnel, 198. 

Montefiore, Sir Moses, 255. 

Moriah, Mount, 262. 

Moslem University in Cairo, 303-305. 

Motley, 25, 28, 29. 

Mott, John R., 449. 

Mozoomdar, P. C, 341, 357; Mrs., 

354,357- 
Miiller, Professor F. Max, 61, iSi, 
1S2, 183, 184, 185. 



476 



INDEX. 



Miiller, Wilhelm, 184, 
Miinden, 98. 
Musee Guimet, 70. 
Music at sea, 12, 13. 



N. 



Nagoya, 452. 

Nantes, •]']. 

Naples, 218-220; aquarium of, 21S- 

2ig; journey thitlier, 218 ; wedding 

of Prince of, 214-216. 
Napoleon, 54, 64, 79, 98, 99, 113, 114, 

136, 138' 139- 
Napoleonic wars, 129. 
Napoleon III., loi, 102. 
Nara, 450. 

Nawara Eliya, 423, 427. 
"Natal," 319. 
Naval battles, 224. 
Nernst, Professor, 86. 
Newman, controversy with Kingsley, 

183. 
Nicolausberg, Church of, 34. 
Nile, 290-294; compared with other 

rivers, 291-292 ; Moses on, 291 ; 

uniqueness of, 292-293. 
Nilometer, 290. 

North German Lloyd Line, 12, 16. 
Notre Dame, 63. 
Nouri, Prince, 299-300, 410. 
Nuremberg, 129. 



O. 

Oken, 138. 

Oker, 119. 

Okerthal, 118. 

Olcott, Colonel, speech, 408-409. 

Old World, 30. 

Olympic games, 232. 

Omar Mosque, 262, 263. 

Orleans, 76. 

Orth, Professor, 88. 

Osaka, 446; prison in, 448; reception 

at, 447. 
Ostade, 99. 
Osterode, 113. 
Otho the Great, 31. 
Oxford, 26, 181-185. 



P. 

Pacific, voyage on, 456. 

Papin, Denis, 79. 

Paris, 49-74, 82-83 ; American Chapel 
in, 69; Americans who loll about, 
97; beauty of, 51; Czar's visit to, 
190 ; decorations of, 190 ; disfig- 
urement of, 51; English signs in, 
53 ; Exposition of, in 1900, 52 ; 
Hotel de Ville, 63, 80; Huguenot 
Library, 70 ; is not France, 75 ; 
memories of, 54 ; more cosmopoli- 
tan, 53; more expensive, 53 ; Musee 
Guimet, 70 ; Notre Dame, 63 ; Pa- 
lais de 1' Industrie, 63; religious 
condition of, 52 ; Salons of, 63-68. 

Parisian banquet, 56. 

Parker, Theodore, 205. 

Parthenon, 233. 

Pasamulai, Mission at, 415. 

Passy, Frederick, 59, 61, 71. • 

Patmos, Isle of, 249. 

Peace Cottage, 356. 

Peck's Bad Boy, 40. 

Pentecost, George F., 180. 

Peradeniya, botanical gardens of, 421- 
422. 

Petrarch, 220. 

Physical chemistry laboratory, 84. 

Picot, George, 61, 71. 

Pillar, Asoka's, 328. 

Pincian Hill, 216-217. 

Pirasus, 227. 

Pittindrigh, Reverend George, 405. 

Planchon, 73. 

Plato's retirement, 228. 

Piatt Deutsch, 32. 

Plesse, 26, 157, 158. 

Poe, Edgar A., 58. 

Pompeii, 221, 222. 

Pompey's Pillar, 280. 

Poona, 395-398; disturbance in, 397; 
Joseph Cook in, 398 ; plague in, 
396. 

Port Said and Bombay experiences, 

Portsmouth, 17. 
Potsdam, 154, 155. 
Potter, Paul, 99, 
Preller, 132. 
Prohibition in Iowa, 82. 



1 



INDEX. 



477 



Protestant Church, bareness of, 44. 

Prussia, Reform Church of, 44. 

Prussian poverty, 153. 

Puaux, Frank, ^t,. 

Punkas, first experiences of, 319. 

Puritan discipline, 87. 

Puritanism, 172, 173, 

Puvis de Chavannes, 55, 65. 

Pyramids, 2S5-289; of Sakkara, 297; 

symbolic of, 289. 
Python, 316. 



R. 

Rachel's tomb, 275. 

Railways, French and Belgian, 50; 

German, 125, 126; Indian, 375, 

376. 
Ramses II., study of, 290, 294. 
Ravaisson-Mollieu, M., 61. 
Reay, Lord, 56, 57. 
Red Sea, crossing of, 317, 318, 319. 
Reformed Church, of Gottingen, 44; 

of Hanover, 44 ; of Prussia, 44 ; ser- 
vice of, 45. 
Reinach, 58, 71, 74, 
Religions, Congress in 1900, 71, 74, 

82; museum of, 71; Parliament 

of, 72. 
Rehgious condition of France, 52. 
Rembrandt, 99; his autobiographies 

and other portraits, 99; works in 

Dresden, 143. 
Reville, Professor Albert, 58, 71, 

73- 

Rheinhausen, 104. 

Richelieu, Cardinal, portrait of, 61, 
67, 68. 

Ritschl, 93, 159. 

Robert College, 242. 

Roberty, Reverend Mr., 74. 

Roda, Island of, 290, 291. 

Roentgen, discovery of, yj. 

Roman Catholic Church, 69. 

Romans, Epistle to, 226. 

Rome, 210-218; and the Apostles, 
217; changes in, 212; churches in, 
213; excavations in, 212; graves 
in, 213, 214; pictures of, 210, 211. 

Rubens, 99. 

Ruysdael, 99. 



s. 



Saigon, 431-433. 

Salamis, 231. 

Salem, 409. 

Salon, of the Champs Elysees, 63, 64 ; 

de Mars, 64, 68; specimens from 

its catalogue, 64. 
San Francisco, 45S. 
Sans Souci, 155. 
Sarah Tucker College, 415. 
Sarnath, 340. 
Saskia, portrait, 100. 
Savonarola, 209. 
Saxe, Marechal, 78. 
Saxons, customs of, 34; maidens, 36. 
Saxony, 141; and Poland, 141; king 

of, character, 140, 141. 
Say, Leon, 82. 
Schelling, 138. 
Schiller, 134-137; bones of, 136; 

house of, 135, 138; hymn to 

Joy, 138. 
Schopenhauer, 28. 
Schopenhauer, Johanna, 134. 
Schultz, Professor, 94. 
Schurer, Professor, 93. 
Scott, Sir Walter, in. 
Scudder, Henry Martin, 399. 
Scutari, 243. 
Scylla, 223. 
Sea, epithets applied to, 14; hymn to, 

14; restful, 14; inconstant, 15, 16. 
Sedan, loi. 

Sen, Keshub Chunder, 48, 358. 
Seraphim, 298. 
Shah Jehan, tomb of, 371-372, 383, 

387. 
Shakespeare, 51. 
Shanghai, 439-440. 
Sharon, Plain of, 252. 
Shelley, 213-214. 
Siliguri, 362. 
Silver party, 248. 
Simon, Jules, address of, 56; call 

upon, 82-83. 
Sinai, Mount, 318. 
Singapore, 429, 430. 
Sistine Madonna, 142. 
Siva, worship of, 333. 
Slater, Reverend T. E., 399. 
Small, Reverend John, 395. 



478 



INDEX.. 



Smyrna, 245-24S. 

Sophronios, Patriarch, 312-313. 

Sorbonne, 55. 

Southampton, 174. 

Southern India, fertility of, 401. 

Spina Christi, 270. 

Stadt Park of Gottingen, 40-41. 

Stamboul, 240. 

Stanislaus, king of Poland, 78. 

Stanley, Dean, 183. 

St. Bartholomew, night of, 54, 55, 

81. 
St. Bonifacius, 29. 
Stead, Reverend F. Herbert, iSo, 

181. 
Stead, William T., 19. 
Steinberg, 117. 
Stein, Frau, 135. 
St. Elizabeth, 126, 128, 131. 
St. Germain, 51. 
St. Jerome, 277. 
Stowe, Mrs., 58. 
St. Paul at Mars Hill, 234, 235. 
Strauss, 152. 
St. Sophia Church, 240. 
St. Thomas, birthplace of, 403. 
Suez Canal, 316, 317 ; town of, 317. 
Sultan, character of, 241 ; motives 

of, 242-243. 
Sunday, keeping of, in Europe and 

America, 52. 



Taj Mahal, 3S5-388. 

Tannhauser, 129, 130, 134, 140, 152. 

Tasso, 79. 

Tel-el-kebir, 316. 

Teniers, 99. 

Thirty years' war, 't,'}ii \^i 97) 98. 

Thurber, Dr., 70, 19 r. 

Thuringian Forest, 126. 

Ti, tomb of, 295, 296. 

Tilly, 33, 98, 157. 

Tinnevelly, 415-446. 

Tokyo, reception in, 453. 

Tours, •]"]. 

Trains, German, 22. 

" Trave," 163. 

Treaty Point, 453. 



Trichur, cathedral in, 411-412; drive 
to, 410; lecture in, 413; reception 
in, 411. 

Triplicane, 403. 

Turin, study of, 200. 

Turkey, apologists for, 249, 250; mail 
in, 244; massacres in, 250-251. 

Turkish fortifications, 245. 



U. 



University, buildings, 26 ; German, 
84-96; advantage for Americans, 
95 ; opening of, 24 ; of Berlin, 85 ; 
of Cairo (Moslem), 303-305 ; of 
Chicago, 150; of France, 55, 57, 71, 
95- 



V. 

Van Dyck, 99. 

Varnishing day at the Salon, 64-67. 

Vatican, 216. 

Vellore, 399-402; Arcot mission, 399; 

reception in, 401. 
Vesuvius, 221. 
Via Dolorosa, 260. 
Victoria Peak, 435. 
Virgil, 220. 
Voltaire, 33, 51, 155. 



W. 

Walpurgisnacht, 122. 

Wartburg, 126-131. 

Water spout, 174. 

Weber, 93. 

Weende, 30, 32, 112. 

Weender-strasse, 31, 41, 42. 

Weimar, 132; of theatre, 134; library, 

135, 136; Werther restaurant, 134. 
Weimar, Duke of, 126, 127, 132. 
Wellhausen, Professor, 93, 94. 
Werra, 98. 

Werther restaurant, 134. 
Weser, 33, 17, 98. 
Westminster Abbey, 176, 179-180. 
Wherry, Dr. E. M., 376. 



J 



INDEX. 



479 



Whittier, 27. 

Wieland room, 134. 

Wight, Isle of, 17. 

Wilamovvitz-Mollendorf, Professor, 93. 

Wilhelmshohe Park, 92, loi, 102. 

William I., 154. 

William II., monument, 84. 

Windsor Castle, 12S. 

Winthrop, Governor, 116. 

Wittenberg, 146, 14S. 

Wohler, 93. 

Wonders of the world, ancient and 

modern, 12. 
Wordsworth, 50, 112. 



World pilgrimage, reflections on, 459, 

466. 
Wouverman, 99. 



" Y. 

" Yang-tse," 429 ; the river, 439. 
Yokohama, 453. 



Zante, 223, 224. 



I 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



021 650 942 



